Now we have three new models in three colorways, all with steel cases/bezels/buttons. There is the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://timexjapan.com/products/ironman-8-lap-metal-tw5m66700-コピー/" target=\"_blank\">all-black TW5M66500</a>, which includes a bracelet and has a list price of $343.00. Then we have the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://timexjapan.com/products/ironman-8-lap-metal-tw5m66600/" target=\"_blank\">bronze-gold toned case and resin strap of the 8-Lap Metal TW5M66600</a> at $311 and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://timexjapan.com/products/ironman-8-lap-metal-tw5m66600-コピー/" target=\"_blank\">bare steel case, black bezel, and strap of the TW5M66700</a> also for $311. One note – all three of these model's product pages include the notice <i>\"This product is Limited Production and Japan Only,\"</i> but both Apple Pay and Google Pay seem to work and confirmed shipping to my address. I have also spoken with folks in North America who have already taken delivery. I have yet to click \"buy.\" I'm trying to do better this year... </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f7d0fabe-7e49-4646-9be5-26c620a86191"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["edcd9438-c37c-4198-9a62-dac8faa05db9","d0550cbf-8685-4c59-b1ff-1b21d3592e4c"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Anyways, all three models have the same case size, a 39mm wide case that houses a digital display controlled by an array of buttons on the case front and sides. I haven't been able to confirm thickness and lug-to-lug, but the plastic examples are 10.5 and 46.3mm, respectively. With functionality directly derived from the preceding 40 years of 8-Laps, these models show the time and date and offer a chronograph, alarm, and timer. All pretty usual stuff for (relatively) inexpensive digital watches these days. Granted, these three are not so inexpensive, and at this $300+ price point, you're not buying in for the tech. Otherwise, you'd almost certainly go with a G-Shock or Garmin to access more modern tech like radio synch, Bluetooth, GPS, and even some smartwatch-adjacent features. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is absolutely a style play, and I feel targeted.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is almost certainly obvious, but I like these a lot. They feel like an extension of the Beams All Metal limited edition from last summer. And while Timex Japan does not list just how limited these are, they are currently available. I figure that availability comes down to the cost being multiples of the more casual price for one of the plastic-cased models. If you're feeling price-sensitive, I get it. Me too. But it's worth remembering the price jump from G-Shock when they made a full metal spin on the 5600, and for a closer comparison, the Beams All Metal 8-Lap has a retail price of ~$440,<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.beams.co.jp/en/item/beams/watch/11480757969/?color=12\%22 target=\"_blank\"> and it appears to be still available from Beams.</a> </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a8b01152-53b8-4150-af34-226274668e94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All in all, while I'm very keen and will almost certainly break down and buy one, I do think that the pricing feels a bit heavy for the perceived upgrades. But maybe it's just that the standard plastic-cased models don't really wear their non-metal attributes as downsides – they are great watches. For these premium offerings, I think the audience is considerably smaller as the metal case feels like a frivolity that isn't required to actually make the watch better. And I think it's because of the every-man (women, child, me) vibe of the Ironman. It might be <i>the</i> iconic \"normcore\" watch. Bill Clinton wore one at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/president-bill-clinton-wearing-a-timex-ironman-triathlon-8-lap-to-his-inauguration-1993/" target=\"_blank\">his inauguration in 1993</a>, do you think he would have opted for metal if it were available? Am I (over)thinking more about this watch than 'ole Bill ever did? Maybe. Probably. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ultimately, I dig these about as much as I dig any new take on the 8-Lap (with bonus points for lume cases), but the price will separate enthusiasts and, indeed, even fans of the 8-Lap.  Either way, you'll need to turn to Japan for your fix. </p>\n\n<p>For more information, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://timexjapan.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit Timex Japan</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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There's <i>macro</i>, and then there's <i>Macro</i>, and this is almost certainly the latter. Check it out as they offer a rare millimeter-by-millimeter view of the inside of an Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of The Moon Apollo 8 and the caliber 1869 within.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"vSeSt70Q_Zk","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For those unaware, <i>The Slow Mo Guys</i>, hosted by Gavin Free and Daniel Gruchy, is a popular YouTube channel (with more than 15 million subscribers) dedicated to exploring everyday phenomena and extraordinary experiments through the lens of high-speed cameras. </p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/@theslowmoguys/" target=\"_blank\">Check out <i>The Slow Mo Guys</i> channel here.</a></p>\n\n<p><i>*Lead image captured from included video. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":331,"slug":"watch_it","name":"Watch It","description":"Explore past and present HODINKEE content, from in-depth product reviews to original video series.","sort_order":27,"created_at":"2025-01-08T17:17:47.455-05:00","updated_at":"2025-01-08T17:17:47.455-05:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"2940caed-3815-4c08-8638-1a382b30c564","container_id":14061,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/5c4f4199-d4e3-4ea4-bf32-c94b36736b93/slow-mo-hero-1.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"still image from the included video","created_at":"2025-01-08T17:15:31.002-05:00","updated_at":"2025-01-08T17:21:42.403-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/5c4f4199-d4e3-4ea4-bf32-c94b36736b93/slow-mo-hero-1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-slow-mo-guys-go-way-inside-an-omega-speedmaster","full_title":"Watch It: The 'Slow Mo Guys' Go (Way) Inside An Omega Speedmaster","tags":["omega","dark side of the moon","apollo 8","recommended","must-watch","slow-mo-guys"]},{"id":14014,"slug":"looking-ahead-to-2025-part-2-with-mark-and-rich","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Looking Ahead To 2025 - Part 2 With Mark & Rich","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-12-27T13:00:29.122-05:00","created_at":"2024-12-26T12:25:24.386-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-27T13:01:48.357-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Considering what comes next for some of our favorite watches and the leading brands. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":15302,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Hodinkee Radio</i></a> feed<i>, </i>so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Apple Podcasts</i></a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\"><i>,</i></a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Stitcher</i></a><i>, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Spotify</i></a><i>, or </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\"><i>TuneIn</i></a><i>).</i></p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"7rYkOs-P53I","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For this episode, James is hosting, and he is joined by Rich and Mark to discuss their thoughts for the watch world in 2025. The trio chats about the continued popularity of vintage-inspired designs and what they're hoping to see from Omega, Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and more. </p>\n\n<p>As this is the last episode of Hodinkee Radio in 2024, we wanted to thank everyone who has listened to the show, offered feedback, and more this past year. We'll be back soon with fresh episodes for 2025.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/4e545741-58bc-4a2b-a41f-a02ef595428e?dark=false\%22>\r\n%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22size%22:%22h2%22,%22headline%22:%22Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>0:51</strong> End of Year Episodes: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/search?q=hodinkee%20radio\%22 target=\"_blank\">Part 1</a> | <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/looking-back-on-2024-part-2-with-rich-and-mark/" target=\"_blank\">Part 2</a> | <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/looking-ahead-to-2025-part-1-with-malaika-and-tantan/" target=\"_blank\">Part 3</a> <br><strong>6:12 </strong><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.urbanjurgensen.com//" target=\"_blank\">Urban Jurgensen</a><br><strong>6:54</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.longines.com/en-ca/watches/heritage/" target=\"_blank\">Longines Heritage models</a><br><strong>10:51</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/admin/articles/13988/www.mdmgames.com/bruichladdichwatch/" target=\"_blank\">Special Link From Bruichladdich</a><br><strong>12:40 </strong><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-grand-seiko-slgw002-slgw003/" target=\"_blank\">Grand Seiko SLGW003</a><br><strong>14:22 </strong><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-omega-speedmaster-pilot/" target=\"_blank\">Flight Qualitifed Omega Speedmaster</a><br><strong>19:50</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-58-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT</a><br><strong>27:40</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&amp;rls=en&amp;q=Rolex+Sea-Dweller&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;oe=UTF-8\%22 target=\"_blank\">Rolex Sea-Dweller</a><br><strong>31:33 </strong><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://int.cartier.com/en/collections/watches/all-watches/coussin-de-cartier/wjcs0011-coussin-de-cartier-watch.html/" target=\"_blank\">Cariter Coussin de Cartier</a><br><strong>32:00</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-cartier-santos-dumont-rewind/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Santos Dumont Rewind</a> <br><strong>38:04</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shellman.com/SSN.html/" target=\"_blank\">Shellman Side Slide Minute Repeater</a> </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"53cd13f8-e2e2-4ecf-b92a-405b16851e89","container_id":14014,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e23c7553-2461-4a31-a14f-f7e327975ead/h-radio-2024-2025hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"hodinkee radio cover image ","created_at":"2024-12-26T12:25:24.445-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-27T10:21:27.646-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e23c7553-2461-4a31-a14f-f7e327975ead/h-radio-2024-2025hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/looking-ahead-to-2025-part-2-with-mark-and-rich","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Looking Ahead To 2025 - Part 2 With Mark & Rich","tags":["rolex","tudor","podcast","hodinkee-radio","podcasts"]},{"id":13964,"slug":"our-favorite-sport-watches-of-2024","column_slug":"editors_picks","title":"Our Favorite Sport Watches Of 2024","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-12-26T15:00:23.206-05:00","created_at":"2024-12-10T13:14:06.581-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-26T15:01:41.781-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Sporty is as sporty does. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":56197,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"dark","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the holidays just around the corner and the year having nearly come to an end, for watch enthusiasts, that means it's time to look back on 2024 and reflect on some of our favorite watches of the past year.</p>\n\n<p>Over the past several days, we've shared our picks for our favorite watches from a handful of genres, including <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/our-favorite-dress-watches-of-2024/" target=\"_blank\">Dress</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-best-budget-watches-of-2024/" target=\"_blank\">Budget</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/our-favorite-complicated-watches-of-2024/" target=\"_blank\">Complicated</a>. Today, I've collected the Hodinkee editorial team to share their favorite sport from 2024. The ever-sporty list is below and covers a range that is both predictable (good is good) and surprising, including solid gold stunners, no shortage of extra time zones, and even a pick that may have a few of you clutching your pearls. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rolex Daytona Le Mans In Yellow Gold [Ben Clymer]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["516120a4-05df-44b8-898d-3ed52984bfc7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I am who I am. I could try to pick something obscure and interesting here, but if it came down to it, there is but one watch (sports or other) that I would <i>die</i> to own from 2024, and that is the Le Mans Daytona in yellow gold. It takes the best of what <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-daytona-le-mans-126529ln-review/" target=\"_blank\">I wrote about here</a>, and dials up the fun factor just a little bit by making it in yellow gold. Did I mention that my birth year Daytona is a 6263 in yellow that looks a heck of a lot like this? It's Rolex doing what only Rolex can do. I just love it.</p>\n\n<p><i>–Ben Clymer, Founder + President</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Hermès \"The Cut\" [Malaika Crawford]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This year Hermès released a new line of 36mm sports watches powered by mechanical movements, aimed primarily at women. The Hermès Cut is smaller, rounder, and softer than the \"men's\" Hermès H08. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hermes-launches-the-cut-a-sport-watch-for-women/" target=\"\"><u>My initial read</u></a>: a simple, clean, easy-to-digest (and commercially viable) watch that proves the brand's intention to keep marching full speed ahead with the growth of the category.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["551b6160-54da-4ade-a5a7-633ce4e4e5d6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I can't tell you how refreshing it is to have a \"ladies\" watch that isn't presented as some sort of floral/rainbow/diamond-laden mélange – some hideously sparkly derivative of a \"man's watch.\" The Hermès Cut is exactly what I am referring to when I harp on about intentional design for women. Its soft lines and democratic size make it proportionally correct, or at the least, very comfortable (in my view) on a wrist my size. At the same time, the distinctly utilitarian look is what I want from an everyday watch. Suddenly, I feel seen. And hopeful.</p>\n\n<p>Signature models like the Arceau and Cape Cod have peaked and troughed in wider mass-market popularity, yet they have remained a constant go-to amongst seasoned watch-wearers who exist outside of puritanical enthusiast circles, as well as fashion obsessives (see <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/hermesbymargielaarchive/p/CEJlGBUgEhR//" target=\"\"><u>Martin Margiela's creation of the double tour</u></a>). Success for entry-level models that sit somewhere around the $5,000 mark could, up until now, be attributed to good-looking, equestrian-inspired design and the power of Hermès branding on the dial. The Hermès Cut is an evolution in the brand's approach to watchmaking for women. It is a sophisticated sports watch with color and typography quirks that make it distinctly Hermès.</p>\n\n<p>–<i>Malaika Crawford, Style Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Tudor Black Bay Monochrome [Mark Kauzlarich]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sometimes, a great release isn't a gut punch of excitement. Sometimes, it's the slow burn that proves that a watch is going to be great not just now but for the long haul. I frankly didn't think much of the Tudor Black Bay \"Monochrome\"  when it came out at Watches &amp; Wonders. In a 41mm by 13.5mm case and all-black dial and bezel combo, there's not much remarkable about the watch on paper. But that's the point. And to truly understand it, you need to look a bit closer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a43e35ff-3ec7-499a-af21-c42a7d611d75"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With a new Master Chronometer-certified movement, T-fit micro-adjustable clasp, a choice of five-link Jubilee-style, Oyster, or rubber bracelets, and a distinct lack of gilt writing anywhere on the watch, this is probably Tudor's most versatile consumer product yet. It is the kind of watch that everyone, from your deep watch nerd to your general customer, can pick up, wear every day, and run into the ground for the rest of their lives and still be happy.</p>\n\n<p>The Tudor Monochrome is what the Rolex Submariner used to be for a lot of people. If you worked hard, saved your money, and wanted something high quality and reliable to wear for the rest of your life, you'd maybe buy a Rolex 5513. Well, now you can buy this instead. Except, here's the kicker. Between the $4,550 price and the general appeal that undercuts the Submariner, an AD recently told me I'd have better luck trying to get a no-date Sub than the Tudor Monochrome. How's that for an endorsement?</p>\n\n<p><i>–Mark Kauzlarich, Editor + Photographer</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710GRNR [Rich Fordon]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Contrary to popular opinion held by male watch editors, I have never owned or wanted to own a modern Rolex GMT. I'm not immune to a Hodinkee cliche Rolex, though; I own and love a vintage Rolex Explorer ref. 1016 – it's a gilt dial; okay, I'm different! Anyway, Rolex made me think twice this year with the after-launch-nicknamed \"Bruce Wayne\" GMT, technically reference 126710GRNR. Modern Rolex is very anti-under-the-radar. The professional models span most wearer's entire wrists, and the polished surfaces do everything to say, \"HEY, I'm WEARING A ROLEX!\" That's sort of the point of a healthy portion of the brand's buyers, but it's not the vibe I am trying to give off. I've been intrigued by the no-date Submariner for its more toned-down Rolex-ness, but I find the case and clasp a bit stout. The GMT case wears well on my wrist, but the dare-I-say loud bezel colors and their various nicknames have always stopped me.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["908ce5cc-387c-42f1-a42d-b1cc5702608a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You can see where I'm going here. The latest GMT, released at Watches and Wonders 2024, is aimed exactly at my segment of the market. It's the toned-down GMT that might have changed everything for me when it comes to modern Rolex. I can now stop thinking about the previous-gen all-black bezel ref. 116710LN and set my sights on one day becoming a modern Rolex guy. The \"Bruce Wayne\" hits a perfect balance of just enough yet not too much. It's a considered choice for the modern GMT-needing consumer.</p>\n\n<p><i>–Rich Fordon, Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Hublot SAXEM Green Big Bang Unico [TanTan Wang]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Stop the presses, TanTan has jumped the shark</i>. This is probably what one of you readers is going to promptly comment down below. But ever since I tried this on early in the year, I can't stop thinking about it. In the sea of criticism that Hublot gets every year, the Big Bang Unico sticks out to me as a gem. First and foremost, anything that's just so damn green will most likely catch my eye, and this is no exception. There – that's my bias disclaimer. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9808e269-b047-48fc-a42d-04208de8fb4f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Second, this watch basically shows what Hublot does best  - the Unico is truly an underrated in-house flyback chronograph movement, especially when cased in the smaller 42mm size. And, of course, the brand is all about materials. SAXEM, an alloy of aluminum oxide that uses rare earth elements to produce the absolutely surreal color in the crystal, is a good reminder that Hublot doubles down its R&amp;D department to stuff that no one else seems to be exploring. It's developing materials like this that pursue essentially no virtue other than aesthetics, and I love that they're going all out for it. <br><br>Will I ever pay the eye-watering price tag that this watch commands? Absolutely not. Do I wish someone would gift me this watch? Absolutely yes. What I'm hoping, though, is that the brand continues to experiment with materials like this so that one day, we can see it make its way into more accessible watches.</p>\n\n<p><i>-TanTan Wang, Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164G [James Stacey]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I flip-flopped a lot in picking my favorite sports watch of the year, but if I got the Doxa Sub 200T into the budget picks (just barely), then I had to contend with the competition between two very different watches, the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT and the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164A. As the above selections effectively represent the Rolex/Tudor contingent (and with good reason), I'm going for the latest version of my favorite sporty Patek, the 2024 white gold 5164G Aquanaut.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a1321bbc-db87-48cb-9e2b-427e4e20e0c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I, like many, adore the now discontinued steel 5164A, so it was a thrill when Patek announced something of a stand-in but in a format that felt distinct from the steel travel timer. Here, for the 5164G, we have a white gold 40.8mm case that surrounds a lovely blue dial and is mounted to a matching blue rubber strap. Jumping from steel to gold is certainly one way to underline what many took as little more than a new dial color, but as a successor to the 5164A, I think they managed to do something that respects the original appeal while offering its own personality. The push-button dual-time function remains, and I have to say that my love for the combination of the blue dial and strap has only grown since Watches &amp; Wonders this past April. </p>\n\n<p>–<i>James Stacey, Editor-in-Chief</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Our Favorite Sport Watches Of 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":39,"slug":"editors_picks","name":"Editors' Picks","description":"","sort_order":18,"created_at":"2017-04-24T21:54:39.733-04:00","updated_at":"2021-04-09T15:27:40.135-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"86883342-6ffc-4965-a7b2-ae06205b6707","container_id":13964,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/8555055e-f5f7-48c3-b31d-f6d2add832bb/sport-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"our favorite sport watches","created_at":"2024-12-10T13:14:06.640-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-26T11:43:02.670-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/8555055e-f5f7-48c3-b31d-f6d2add832bb/sport-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/our-favorite-sport-watches-of-2024","full_title":"Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Sport Watches Of 2024","tags":["rolex","tudor","hublot","hermes","gmt","editors-picks","sports"]},{"id":13965,"slug":"our-favorite-complicated-watches-of-2024","column_slug":"editors_picks","title":"Our Favorite Complicated Watches Of 2024","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-12-24T11:10:47.103-05:00","created_at":"2024-12-10T13:17:18.282-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-24T11:10:51.027-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>For when we're feeling a bit <i>extra</i>. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":40752,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"dark","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the holidays just around the corner and the year having nearly come to an end, for watch enthusiasts, that means it's time to look back on 2024 and reflect upon some of our favorite watches of the year.</p>\n\n<p>Over the past several days, we have shared our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-best-budget-watches-of-2024/" target=\"_blank\">favorite budget watches of 2024</a> and our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/our-favorite-dress-watches-of-2024/" target=\"_blank\">favorite dress watches of 2024</a>, but today, we're taking it up a notch – our picks for our favorite complicated watches from the past year. From record-setting pocket watches to special tourbillons, no small order of <i>Lumen, </i>and even a watch with a truly <i>digital</i> complication, it's a varied and, well, complicated list. When you get through the list, be sure to hit the comments to let us know what complicated watch stole your heart in 2024. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Vacheron Constantin Berkley Grand Complication [Mark Kauzlarich]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's not often I get to pick a pocket watch for a \"Watch of the Year\" category, but when a brand breaks a record (their own record, no less) for the most complicated watch in the world, it's as good of an excuse as any.</p>\n\n<p>There's not much more I can say than I've already said (not <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-constantin-berkley-grand-complication/" target=\"\"><u>once</u></a> but <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-vacheron-constantin-berkley-grand-comp/" target=\"\"><u>twice</u></a>) in my lucky time with the watch before it disappeared into the vault of American collector William Berkley. Vacheron Constantin's Berkley Grand Complication was a true masterpiece of horology, with 63 separate complications, 245 jewels, 2,877 components, and weighs over two pounds. It's the kind of watch that doesn't need to exist (in a world where watches themselves really don't need to exist), made by one of the few brands that seems willing to push the envelope for the sake of it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["84949cb8-6b29-4cad-9e71-f0b390e54406"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As the pinnacle of eleven years of work, Vacheron also achieved the first ever Chinese Perpetual Calendar (a lunisolar calendar like the Hebraic calendar in the previous most complicated watch), which was a cap on a fantastic achievement. If all this seems a bit like a clinical analysis of the watch, that's fair. I think it's hard to get too emotionally attached to something that's the horological equivalent of a concept car that you can't touch, feel, or imagine living with. But that doesn't detract from the sheer shock and awe of seeing the watch in person – an experience that I'll never forget.</p>\n\n<p><i>–Mark Kauzlarich, Editor + Photographer</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen [TanTan Wang]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mean, this one was a no-brainer for me. Sure, the A. Lange &amp; Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in Honeygold is certainly not as restrained as some of my colleagues' picks, but then again, it's no Berkley Grand Comp either. It's been no surprise this year to hear that most people think 2024 was a soft year for watch releases in general. That doesn't mean that there weren't some heavy hitters, though. Like this one. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dbedd75d-47fc-4aef-8836-5e49db44bcd2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For years, Lange kept the Lumen series and their nutso complications separate. But then, like a nihilist trying to solve the trolley problem, all of a sudden, these tracks were merged, and this doozy of a watch exploded onto this year's Watches and Wonders. Throw in the rarely used Honeygold alloy into the mix, and you have a watch that theoretically could tick almost every single box that a Lange collector might look for in a limited edition of just 50 pieces. <br><br>Ok, it's not like Lange had no reason to release this watch this year. It is, after all, the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, and that's an important number for the brand. Having been fortunate enough to have seen this watch several times this year, I know that this watch never gets old. Sometimes, it's easy to take Lange's watchmaking for granted behind their stoic dials that you need the subtlety of a brick to the face to remind you of all the craziness that is behind a chronograph with a big date with a moon phase with a perpetual calendar with a tourbillon on the back. What's crazy is that this isn't even my favorite Lange of the year. But when it comes to complications, this one can't leave my mind.</p>\n\n<p><i>–TanTan Wang, Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Chanel Première Sound Watch [Malaika Crawford]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>OK, so maybe this doesn't fall under the traditional purview of watch complications, but if we're going strictly by definition, this watch still has \"a function that goes beyond displaying the time.\" So technically, this works… sort of.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5eee230d-5870-46d8-8a04-1bb7cbf2bdff"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Chanel watches are never stuck on nostalgia; in fact, Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel watchmaking studio, has a clear knack for pushing watch design forward. Headphones attached to a watch that comes on a necklace sound like a lot of tricks, but they are innovative and tongue-in-cheek and work for the Chanel customer. This watch/necklace/tech object has kept the traditional Premiere design intact and added audio with Master &amp; Dynamic headphones that can connect to a smartphone (iPhone or Android) or any audio device. While the earphone wires loop into the necklace and are removable if you wish to revert back to a simple sautoir without the sound.</p>\n\n<p>2024 was the year of \"conventional\" design. A pervasive beige cashmere sweater and no-logo handbag hegemony in the fashion industry paralleled alongside a more quiet approach in the watch landscape, too (see Tudor Black Bay Monochrome and white dial Speedy). The Chanel premiere sound was a fun and eccentric respite in an otherwise very serious year.</p>\n\n<p><i>–Malaika Crawford, Style Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Chopard L.U.C. 1860 Flying Tourbillon [Rich Fordon]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While almost entirely unnecessary, I am a sucker for a well-executed tourbillon. A case in point is the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tagheuer.com/us/en/timepieces/collections/tag-heuer-carrera/42-mm-calibre-heuer02t-cosc/CBS5010.FC6543.html/" target=\"_blank\">TAG Heuer's Carrera Tourbillon</a>, a watch I have lusted after since I first handled it, but it is a notoriously slow seller. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon scratches a different itch than the Carrera as a dress-forward complicated watch and does so at a level of finishing that is expected given the over $100,000 spread between the two. The ultimate expression of Chopard's L.U.C collection and, with it, the ultimate iteration of the legendary caliber 1.96, the 1860 Flying Tourbillon is 2024's best complicated watch for the discerning, toned-down collector.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c1234588-c93b-4219-8e7a-9f9d5a43a2c7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the smallest flying tourbillon caliber in the world at 27.4mm diameter by 3.3mm thick, allowing Chopard to stick to the \"classic\" 1860 case size of 36.5mm by 8.2mm (with hunter caseback!). Size doesn't equal might. If you're a spec nerd, you might be interested in features like a stop-seconds function, Breguet overcoil, swan neck regulator, Geneva stripes, and hand anglage. The dial is made at Metalem, the same folks who famously made most Philippe Dufour Simplicity dials. Sure, Chopard made ten 1860 Flying Tourbillons at 127,500 CHF, but that doesn't mean it can't be the best complicated watch of the year. Mark's selection is a piece unique, after all. </p>\n\n<p><i>–Rich Fordon, Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Cartier Tortue Monopusher Chronograph & Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold [Ben Clymer]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Let's be clear – there is only one right answer for this category, and Mark picked it before me: the Vacheron Berkley Grand Comp, aka the most complicated watch ever made by anyone, ever. After that, my mind went to TanTan's pick. But since those were taken, I kinda went to the other side of the scale and went for a more elegant take on a single-complication wristwatch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8ebf68eb-eeff-40fb-ba84-9f7641535382","dfb81a57-07f1-4c60-8ef9-3507ae3d6dfd"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Cartier's Tortue Monopusher is a very welcomed addition to the collection Prive and, indeed, a watch I considered. The caliber itself is shaped, if a little lacking, but the overall package is delightful, chic, and understated, which is what I look for in complicated watches that I'd actually buy myself. The very same can be said for the re-born Daniel Roth's Tourbillon Rose Gold. The watch is more subtle than the Souscription watch from last year, and now you can see just how much detail was paid to the finishing of this thing – and it's right up there with just about any independent you might see today.</p>\n\n<p><i>–Ben Clymer, Founder + President</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Limited Edition For Hodinkee [James Stacey]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Given the somewhat extreme selection of complications above, while I had originally planned to pick the truly wonderful <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-nano-foudroyante-ewt/" target=\"_blank\">Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT</a>, I figured I might pick something a bit more down to earth. But not all the way down, mind you. Among the many excellent limited editions that Hodinkee has produced, one of my recent favorites is this lovely, sporty, and plenty complicated Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bab4798a-e54c-4dfc-a2e1-52003fd915e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Combining a chronograph and a triple calendar display, this handsome expression of the Chronomaster is made all the more interesting by the added tiny apertures for the day and month displays. The inclusion of meteorite for the subdial design adds an extra element that, for me, ties the whole watch together. You get all that makes a Chronomaster special – and then plenty more – in terms of both complication and aesthetic execution.</p>\n\n<p>It's an absolutely gorgeous watch with a traditional complication balanced by a modern look and feel. The meteorite is just for fun, and I love it. </p>\n\n<p>–<i>James Stacey, Editor-in-Chief </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":39,"slug":"editors_picks","name":"Editors' Picks","description":"","sort_order":18,"created_at":"2017-04-24T21:54:39.733-04:00","updated_at":"2021-04-09T15:27:40.135-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"8ffddf2c-bd6d-41d8-a6dd-24c81b16b5ce","container_id":13965,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/8dc1540d-6abc-4ca9-a977-6798280fe0d1/2024-complicatedwatches.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"complicated watches","created_at":"2024-12-10T13:17:18.326-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-23T11:46:36.863-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/8dc1540d-6abc-4ca9-a977-6798280fe0d1/2024-complicatedwatches.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/our-favorite-complicated-watches-of-2024","full_title":"Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Complicated Watches Of 2024","tags":["a-lange-sohne","vacheron-constantin","chopard","cartier","tourbillon","chanel","lange","complications","datograph","editors-picks","luc","daniel-roth","tortue","lumen","chopard-luc","chanel-premiere"]},{"id":13963,"slug":"our-favorite-dress-watches-of-2024","column_slug":"editors_picks","title":"Our Favorite Dress Watches Of 2024","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-12-17T15:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-12-10T13:04:32.345-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-17T15:19:01.744-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Fancy something a bit more formal? Here are our picks for dress watch of 2024. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":64219,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"dark","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the holidays just around the corner and the year having nearly come to an end, for watch enthusiasts, that means it's time to look back on 2024 and reflect upon some of our favorite watches of the year.</p>\n\n<p>So far, we've done our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-best-budget-watches-of-2024/" target=\"_blank\">favorite budget picks,</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-best-budget-watches-of-2023/" target=\"_blank\"> </a>and today, we have the picks for our favorite dress watches of 2024. From Ben's inability to make a single pick to stone dials, mini sizing, and more – the list captures how we approach the idea of a dress watch and what we would wear for a fancy event, a special dinner, or a night on the town. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold & Berneron Mirage 34 Tiger's Eye [Ben Clymer]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I couldn't pick just one! I don't think it's a surprise to anyone <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-fatherhood-phases-of-life-and-letting-watches-go/" target=\"_blank\">after this story</a> that my heart is really in the Independents these days – guys that are about my age, that came up with me in many ways, doing really wonderful things.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9762647d-c9dc-47c5-a441-b6bee1d8e6d7","bf54dc1d-83bd-4415-92fb-57153d4cd744"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-photo-diary-of-my-week-in-geneva-for-the-2023-grand-prix-dhorlogerie-de-geneve-complete-with-some/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">I've been a fan of Simon since I met him the day after the GPHG in 2023</a>, but I felt the titanium and zirconium versions of the watch were a bit too informal for what was truly such a finely finished watch. In rose gold, with a black hand-engraved dial? All that goes away, and I fell head over heels for it. As for Berneron? Same thing. The first run is just fantastic, if not slightly too tall (not thick, tall) for my wrist. The newly announced 34mm Mirage with Tigers Eye dial? Oh man, what a thing. I love to see guys like Simon and Sylvain doing incredible things the right way and putting their own stamp on watchmaking today – both in a way that is arguably unique to just them.</p>\n\n<p><i>–Ben Clymer, Founder + President</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Grand Seiko SLGW003 [Mark Kauzlarich]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Grand Seiko's reintroduction of a manually wound high-beat movement into its lineup this year not only rounded out the brand's lineup with a classic idea reimagined but also introduced something that's tauntingly become a white whale of sorts for me this year: the SLGW003.</p>\n\n<p>With an incredibly light and remarkably high-polished brilliant hard titanium case, \"White Birch\" motif dial, and the incredibly tactile wind of the 9SA4 movement, the SLGW003 might be one of the most perfect watches Grand Seiko has ever made. It captures everything that's great about a new Grand Seiko, with a movement that's one of the best feeling manually-wound movements in the $10,000-or-so price range.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7d0ce4f9-8c1b-48d6-931c-67d3ac412af5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've come close to buying the watch so many times over the past year, not just at my home boutique in New York but in Japan, where the watch seemed to follow me everywhere around the country, popping up on tour stops and in shop after shop as I visited the country for the first time. I even <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-tour-of-grand-seiko-part-2/" target=\"\"><u>met the movement designer Yuya Tanaka</u></a>, who told me about the special attention he paid to the experience the owner would have while winding the movement. While I generally would gravitate toward a more austere dial and maybe subsidiary seconds on a dress watch, the SLGW003 is just such a good release that there's no doubt in my mind I'll end up with one sooner rather than later.</p>\n\n<p><i>–Mark Kauzlarich, Editor + Photographer</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak [Malaika Crawford]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm calling the frosted gold AP Royal Oak Mini a <i>dressy</i> watch, for argument's sake. It is certainly not a sports watch, so we shall let it exist in its own very glamorous category.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["504c361e-e29d-4bcb-9252-fced72f6d70b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What makes this itty bitty Royal Oak so perfect for formal affairs and elegant evening functions? I shall endeavor to unpack exactly what I want from a <i>dressy</i> watch. Notably, one that costs upwards of $30,000. Firstly, it must make me feel a tingling sense of pride and joy whenever I look down at my wrist. Secondly, it must make me feel so elegantly decorated that I can exude quiet confidence no matter what the rest of my outfit looks like. And finally, it must be sculptural enough to stand alone as a piece of jewelry or stackable enough to wear with other bracelets. The RO Mini works best for me as the latter – a stackable, shiny bracelet-like ode to disco that would add a whole new layer of put-together to my outfit. Its mini-ness makes it less of a statement than a mid-size frosted Royal Oak. Here's hoping for plain gold and two-tone (steel and gold) minis in 2025!</p>\n\n<p>While Cartier is undoubtedly the leader of the pack on the small watch trend front, the RO Mini is having its moment of glory. See her glimmer on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://images.app.goo.gl/b1srupGHB5EM4jXf9/" target=\"\"><u>Serena Williams</u></a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://images.app.goo.gl/Dj1w9WHRkTNYnNAc9/" target=\"\"><u>Simone Biles</u></a><u>,</u> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/DCXbuuNu8su/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&amp;igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==\%22 target=\"\"><u>Rihanna</u></a>.</p>\n\n<p><i>–Malaika Crawford, Style Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Cartier Tank Américaine Small in Yellow Gold [Rich Fordon]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>2024 was a year in which I considered, shopped for, and purchased more dress watches than all previous years combined. While none of my purchases were modern (I'm a classic vintage guy; I know, how annoying), Cartier sneakily released an extremely viable modern dress watch for the vintage lover: the Tank Américaine Small.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1c2a0ca4-38ab-4340-998a-79053f102cda"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Don't let the name fool you; the sizing here suits most wrists, including mine at 7.25 inches attached to a 6-foot 4-inch frame. Much of the reason I love this new Cartier is because it mimics one of my vintage favorites, the 1970s Paris Tank Cintrée Mid-Size. It's funny how mid-size becomes small over 50 years, right? The vintage Cintrée measures 20mm wide by 36mm tall, and 2024's Tank Américaine Small sits at 19.4mm by 35.4 mm. Obviously, the Tank Cintrée and Tank Américaine are technically different models, but what that amounts to when comparing these two is slightly thicker brancards on the modern Américaine. That's about it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And just to get ahead of the obvious criticism, yes, this $11,600 watch is powered by a quartz movement. Frankly, that's what you're paying for a solid 18k yellow gold Cartier these days, and no one has ever bought a Carter for the movement (Tortue Monopoussoir aside). That vintage Cintrée has a Cartier cal. 78-1 inside, an ETA 2512 with a restamped train bridge – nothing to write home about, but I love it nonetheless. </p>\n\n<p><i>–Rich Fordon, Editor</i></p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Baltic Prismic With Jade Green Dial [TanTan Wang]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What's the one watch you regret not picking up this year? For me, it's not even close – it's the Baltic Prismic with a Green Jade dial. When I first got a preview of the trio of stone-dial Prismic models, I knew that these were going to fly. Maybe we've hit stone-dial fatigue already. But I have to say, these looked too good to be limited by that sentiment. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["96f9d1c2-8cf1-4c7d-9126-e9506ddb7c62"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With several other brands this year, we've seen many stone dial concepts come into play at the budget level (such as my colleague Rich's favorite sub-1.5k pick of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-dennison-ald-collection/" target=\"_blank\">Dennison A.L.D</a>). However, this one is a perfect watch at a slightly higher price. The Peseux 7001 caliber inside is proven enough for a manual wound option, and I think that checks off the movement box so that the rest of the attention can be put towards the aesthetics. At 36mm in diameter, with a 9.2mm tall case, the Prismic has classic cocktail watch proportions but with a bit of visual interest, with parts of the case constructed from Grade 5 titanium. Throw in a Lapis Lazuli, Green Jade, or Red Agate dial, and you have a winning combination on your hands. <br><br>When I published my hands-on with the watches earlier this year, it seemed like most readers agreed that these were winners. And so did the rest of the internet – as all of them sold in four minutes. All of my FOMO building up means that I (and the others who missed out on this iteration) will certainly be looking for Baltic to continue exploring other stones for a future Prismic edition.</p>\n\n<p><i>–TanTan Wang, Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Onyx [James Stacey]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>By now, many of you will know that I tend to reach for a sports watch most days of the year. However, if I'm thinking about a dressier option, it's hard to ignore the 30th-anniversary limited edition versions of the A. Lange &amp; Söhne Lange 1, specifically those with the black onyx dial. I saw and photographed these models while visiting the Audrain Concours with Lange this fall, and I just fell in love with the full-size onyx-dialed platinum-cased Lange 1. I mean, just look at it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["61b0b327-2a26-45b0-a725-45d95b610249"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For my taste, the Lange 1 is one of <i>THE</i> iconic dress watches, and I specifically love the almost maximalist take on making something elegant and special. Where most brands – including Lange for other models – might opt for a time-only or even super slim watch lacking even a second hand, the Lange 1 has its signature asymmetrical time display, a grand date display, and a power reserve indication for its gorgeous hand-wound movement. Do all that in stealthy platinum with the deep inky black of the onyx dial, and you'll have me looking for reasons to dress up this year or the next. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":39,"slug":"editors_picks","name":"Editors' Picks","description":"","sort_order":18,"created_at":"2017-04-24T21:54:39.733-04:00","updated_at":"2021-04-09T15:27:40.135-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"cef77791-b799-490b-b188-df4d8ad124d3","container_id":13963,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3d47388d-af76-467d-95bc-441b80001300/dress-watch-hero-1.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"our fav dress watches of 2024","created_at":"2024-12-10T13:04:32.416-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-16T19:01:45.761-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3d47388d-af76-467d-95bc-441b80001300/dress-watch-hero-1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/our-favorite-dress-watches-of-2024","full_title":"Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Dress Watches Of 2024","tags":["a-lange-sohne","audemars-piguet","cartier","royal-oak","lange","cartier-tank","baltic-watches","grand seiko","cartier-tank-cintree","simon-brette","berneron"]},{"id":13962,"slug":"the-best-budget-watches-of-2024","column_slug":"editors_picks","title":"Our Favorite Budget Watches Of 2024 ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-12-13T15:13:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-12-10T12:54:11.439-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-13T15:40:56.847-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>With prices seemingly ever on the rise, can you still get a great watch for under $1,500?</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":91839,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"dark","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's the end of another fun year in the world of watches, and that means it's time to kick off our annual round-up of many of our favorite watches from 2024. To kick off our end-of-year programming, I asked the Hodinkee editorial team to pick their favorite budget watch, something great for less than $1,500. </p>\n\n<p>This year, we have plenty of variety from 70s LED styling to a blacked-out MoonSwatch, classic divers in a smaller sizing, a fav Hodinkee Limited Edition, a stone dial stunner, and more. After you finish the list, be sure to hit the comments to let us know your pick for the budget watch of 2024. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Swatch x Omega Mission To The Moonphase - New Moon [Mark Kauzlarich]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Watches are supposed to be fun. It can be hard to remember that with all the money that gets tied up in these very cool, superfluous little things. So why is it that the MoonSwatch, of all the harmless, affordable little watches, seems to have deeply offended so many people? Well, not me. I'm fun, aren't I?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cd087693-65fb-424f-aada-932fff0fc42a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Well, I don't know about that, but I will say that if affordability is the name of the game, the MoonSwatch changed everything. All of a sudden, I'm seeing them on the wrists of everyone around New York – and worldwide, for that matter – and striking up a conversation with waiters, neighbors, and people waiting for the train. Yes, okay, I'm weird. But what was the last watch that became both a cultural \"moment\" that bridged the gap between watch lovers and general consumers? Paul Newman's Daytona? Yeah, if only we all had $17.8 million lying around. Nearly anyone can buy these watches and scratch about a dozen different itches, depending on who you are.</p>\n\n<p>There were a few different MoonSwatch releases that caught my eye this year. The blue Snoopy was one that I meant to pick up but just forgot to go out of my way to get. So why pick the black Snoopy Moonphase? Because it was the one I actually did buy – in a post-Watches &amp; Wonders <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-snoopy-moonswatch-airport/" target=\"\"><u>haze at the airport</u></a>, no less. I don't wear it often, but when I do, it makes me smile, and for a shade over $300, that's all I can ask for.</p>\n\n<p><i>– Mark Kauzlarich, Editor + Photographer</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Casio G-Shock Reference 5600 By Ben Clymer [Ben Clymer]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a3420b79-469b-43fb-8cfb-16520d0a6361"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mean, do I really have to explain why this is my favorite watch of the year (under $1,500 or not)? I've had a Casio watch in my life just about as long as I've known what a *watch* is – so to get to design one and put my name on one was an absolute dream for a dork like me. I've been so proud to see where these have ended up, and I can't wait for the day I'll give one to both of my children. I wear mine basically every single weekend, and in the reference 5600 format, it just <i>works so well.</i></p>\n\n<p><i>–Ben Clymer, Founder + President</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Hamilton \"Mini\" PSR 74 [Malaika Crawford]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Hamilton PSR was launched in 2020 and was based on the Pulsar Time Computer, the world's first watch with an LED (light-emitting diode) display. This year, Hamilton released a smaller PSR for both stainless steel and yellow PVD-coated steel. Admittedly, the downsize enticed me to check out a reissue that I would otherwise have likely skimmed over. Additionally, my Pulsar attention span likely peaked this year when I took a deep dive into Tiffany's watch retail archive and came across the P1 model sold by the blue-box American retailer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9e59ccbe-4488-4ace-a05f-5fd6ce1c725a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When the Hamilton Pulsar Time Computer was first unveiled in 1970, it was hailed as one of the most groundbreaking timepieces ever created. However, it was also among the priciest. Introduced two years before hitting the market, the watch debuted in a solid gold case and cost $2,100—more costly than a gold Rolex at the time.</p>\n\n<p>While today's \"mini\" PVD-coated pulsar comes in at a very democratic $845, I am attracted to the watch for the same reasons I am attracted to its original 1970s ancestor. It's a piece of retro-futuristic design that is akin to the Beatles wearing Pierre Cardin's catsuits and  <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/10-vintage-snapshots-to-get-you-in-the-mood-for-the-courreges-show/26142/" target=\"\"><u>André Courreges' 1964 Moon Girl collection</u></a>. One wonderful thing about \"space-age\" design is how, over time, it's gone from futuristic to retro-futuristic. Nobody today thinks the future is going to look like The Jetsons. But however charmingly ungainly those 1960s and '70s designs might appear in retrospect, they do retain a glimmer of glamour. Clearly, watchmakers are still playing with the aesthetic.</p>\n\n<p><i>–Malaika Crawford, Style Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Dennison A.L.D. Malachite [Rich Fordon]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While a MoonSwatch or something (just about anything) from Unimatic were the first budget picks to come to my mind, the combination of a longer, more considered contemplation, as well as Mark and TanTan squatting on their picks early, landed me on Dennison's A.L.D. Sure, this is the latest watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-dennison-ald-collection/" target=\"\"><u>I went Hands-on with</u></a>, I'll admit that. But the product is one that I am happy to recommend for the whopping $690 retail price. The case is designed by Emmanuel Gueit, the dial options are gorgeous, and the resulting watch is differentiated enough to earn wrist time in any collection.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f7f4a8ce-a212-4a3f-98d0-f202686b3bda"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In our latest Hodinkee Radio, I declared 2024 the year of the \"shaped watch,\" and here I am backing it up – letting you in on the \"trend\" at an accessible price point. Don't say I never do anything nice for you!</p>\n\n<p><i>–Rich Fordon, Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Unimatic x MoMA Modello Cinque U5S-MoMA-Y [TanTan Wang]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This one is easy because it's the watch I bought this year that's brought me the most joy every time I wear it. For those who might have missed this under-the-radar release, this is the second collaboration that Milan-based Unimatic has done with the Museum of Modern Art in Manhattan. While the first trilogy was inspired by the color schemes of MoMA's tickets, this second trilogy is loosely based on the De Stijl art movement and sports all the colors you'd find on one of Mondrian's iconic works.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["db9935f8-be50-4ce4-bc92-e9a808c5e1b7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When I found out about this release, I ran straight to the MoMA Design Store the same day, before the team there even had the chance to put any of them out on display. I have to give major thanks to the lady who helped me, as she took the time to open up one of each to show me the color combinations of the three watches, even though the store was absolutely swamped with tourists. <br><br>The use of primary colors is quite restrained on the dial and makes the design work well. The Modello Cinque case is also growing on me a lot more, and this collaboration shows me how good this smaller-wearing case might be for future designs. With a Sellita movement and 300m of water resistance, it also is a fun, almost toylike watch that can actually be put up against anything you throw at it - I threw mine on a yellow rubber strap. And the cherry on top is the double-signed dial, which is very fitting as MoMA is also the retailer.</p>\n\n<p><i>–TanTan Wang, Editor</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Doxa Sub 200T [James Stacey]"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Hey, I picked it as my favorite sport watch at the mid-point of 2024, then I bought one, and here it is again as my budget watch of the year – the Doxa Sub 200T. Yes, it's actually about $50-100 over the budget limit depending on the strap/bracelet option, but I think this one's worth a small stretch of the budget. Here we have a shot of the 39mm Sub 200T in the blue dialed \"CArribean\" spec, which is a fav of mine and was the strongest competition for the color I eventually seleceted as my own – <i>Divingstar – </i>aka. yellow. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aebbfcfb-c96d-4b15-8869-13a6b2564fc1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I adore Doxa and love that the brand launched a smaller, less expensive, but still just as charming alternative to the 300 and the 300T. At ~$1,550, you just have to figure out which of the 14+ colors suits your mood. Hard to skip any of the classics, like Sharkhunter, Searambler, or Professional. But don't sleep on Carribean or Divingstar. These are such sweetly fun watches for this price point and the 200T manages to capture the 300's core appeal in a way that the preceeding (and still very good) Sub 200 simply couldn't. </p>\n\n<p>This could have easily been my sport watch of the year, or even my watch of the year, but it certainly rocks in the budget category. </p>\n\n<p>– <i>James Stacey, Editor-In-Chief</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":39,"slug":"editors_picks","name":"Editors' Picks","description":"","sort_order":18,"created_at":"2017-04-24T21:54:39.733-04:00","updated_at":"2021-04-09T15:27:40.135-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"605143b3-b2e0-48d9-945b-93563769a704","container_id":13962,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/8852e060-11dd-4694-bbc9-7bccefbb00a1/staff-picks-budget-watch-2024.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"best budget watches","created_at":"2024-12-10T12:54:11.498-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-13T11:29:08.330-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/8852e060-11dd-4694-bbc9-7bccefbb00a1/staff-picks-budget-watch-2024.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-best-budget-watches-of-2024","full_title":"Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Budget Watches Of 2024 ","tags":["swatch","doxa","snoopy","editors-picks","dennison","unimatic","moonswatch"]},{"id":13972,"slug":"looking-back-on-2024-part-2-with-rich-and-mark","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Looking Back On 2024 – Part 2 With Rich and Mark","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-12-13T13:00:05.392-05:00","created_at":"2024-12-12T16:42:41.461-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-13T13:01:21.240-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Chatting over the last year in watches, what we liked, the big moments, and a whole lot more.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":12960,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Hodinkee Radio</i></a> feed<i>, </i>so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Apple Podcasts</i></a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\"><i>,</i></a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Stitcher</i></a><i>, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Spotify</i></a><i>, or </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\"><i>TuneIn</i></a><i>).</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"suGihuQCazk","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For this episode, James is hosting, and he is joined by Mark and Rich to discuss the last year in watches. The conversation is wide-ranging and includes everything from the continued popularity of shaped cases to Daniel Craig leaks, fan service in watches, the need for fun, the continued role of the Moonswatch, and a handful of favorite releases from 2024.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We'll be back in a few days with part three of this series, in which we will look forward to the excitement of what we hope will come in 2025. Thanks so much for listening.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/c930f16a-6b3d-44e3-9d3e-282dfd8ada90?dark=false\%22>\r\n%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22size%22:%22h2%22,%22headline%22:%22Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>2:35</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/week-on-the-wrist-cartier-crash/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Crash</a><br><strong>3:11 </strong><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-berneron-mirage-34mm-realizes-its-creators-uncompromising-vision/" target=\"_blank\">Berneron watches</a><br><strong>3:45</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-cartier-santos-dumont-rewind/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Rewind</a><br><strong>5:35</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/wotw-white-omega-speedmaster/" target=\"_blank\">The white dial Omega Speedmaster Pro</a><br><strong>6:01</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-tudor-black-bay-goes-monochrome/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor Black Bay \"Monochrome\"</a><br><strong>9:42</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-snoopy-moonswatch-airport/" target=\"_blank\">Mark's story about buying a Moonswatch</a><br><strong>15:24</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-madeditions-mad1s/" target=\"_blank\">M.A.D.1S</a><br><strong>17:02</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.mdmgames.com/bruichladdichwatch/register.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1&amp;dob=03%2F13%2F1996\%22 target=\"_blank\">Special Link From Bruichladdich</a><br><strong>17:39</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-cubitus-collection/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe Cubitus</a><br><strong>18:35</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-nivada-grenchen-antarctic-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT</a><br><strong>30:35</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lvmh-announces-a-10-year-partnership-with-formula-1/" target=\"_blank\">Tag Heuer and F1</a><br><strong>30:52</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-200t/" target=\"_blank\">Doxa Sub 200T</a><br><strong>31:00</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-nano-foudroyante-ewt/" target=\"_blank\">Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT</a><br><strong>31:37 </strong><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://impossiblewatchco.com//" target=\"_blank\">Impossible Watch Co</a><br><strong>32:07</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-laurent-ferrier-classic-moon/" target=\"_blank\">Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon</a><br><strong>34:50</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-laurent-ferrier-classic-auto/" target=\"_blank\">Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto \"Sandstone\"</a><br><strong>35:24</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/admin/articles/13972/The John Mayer AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar LE/" target=\"_blank\">The John Mayer AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar LE</a><br><strong>36:07</strong> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-grand-seiko-slgw002-slgw003/" target=\"_blank\">Grand Seiko SLGW003</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"a4aa6f67-f1e2-4c6b-8d44-6b962ba8f057","container_id":13972,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/76a210a5-58b7-4369-8443-75fa687cc77f/H-Radio-Article-Hero-033.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"hodinkee radio","created_at":"2024-12-12T16:42:41.518-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-12T17:10:47.645-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/76a210a5-58b7-4369-8443-75fa687cc77f/H-Radio-Article-Hero-033.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/looking-back-on-2024-part-2-with-rich-and-mark","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Looking Back On 2024 – Part 2 With Rich and Mark","tags":["podcast","hodinkee-radio","hodinkee-podcasts","2024"]},{"id":13950,"slug":"the-tudor-pelagos-fxd-gmt","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-12-04T11:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-12-03T11:07:18.766-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-10T17:15:13.434-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>The latest evolution of the Pelagos trades its fins for wings (or rotors?).</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":70395,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"dark","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last month, Tudor took the wraps off of their latest military-derived expression of the Pelagos. Initially following the path of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-pelagos-fxd-ref-25707b/" target=\"_blank\">2021's FXD Marine Nationale</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/diving-with-the-new-tudor-pelagos-fxd/" target=\"_blank\">2022's FXD Black</a> (which is colloquially known as the U.S.N.), this latest evolution of the Pelagos strays quite considerably from the original brief by rethinking the FXD as a platform for French Navy Pilots – not divers – along with a GMT function and a coordinated 24-hour bezel. Combine this with a surprising colorway, and you have yet another Tudor that runs the Goldilocks delta of being too much for some, a near miss for others, and the perfect watch for those in between.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bd4dd123-fd20-482c-9b52-c7659ecd3ec7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As both a complete nerd for travel watches and a huge fan of the Pelagos – I wrote this from seat 14A on a flight while wearing my Pelagos 39 – I knew I needed to see this new model in person.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>My colleague <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-tudor-pelagos-fxd-gmt/" target=\"\"><u>Mark covered the announcement with his original intro</u></a>, and that story includes the raw specs, so I can be brief. The Pelagos FXD GMT measures 42mm wide, 52mm lug to lug, and 12.7mm thick. Most of this is to be expected as the FXD has largely held to its original dimensions (with the chronograph examples coming in at 43mm), but there is some context to this thickness when considering it's a Tudor GMT. We can get into that shortly.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2b2bd8a0-d91a-4f58-b36b-66e2fa116f5c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d1c8395c-5cce-44e9-bc3e-92e33e5c5c1a","2f28bf7c-4931-4855-b38a-854d07d1cb15"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Beyond the sizing, the FXD GMT offers its flyer GMT function with a grade 2 titanium case, a closed caseback, the model's characteristic channel \"fixed\" lugs, and a colorway that borrows some warmth from the Pelagos LHD along with a splash of rich orange for the GMT. The faux-tanned lume has proven to be one of the more divisive decisions made for the FXD GMT, and it certainly offers an aesthetic that feels entirely disparate from the original FXD or the black version but is perhaps more predictable than the carbon-cased<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/two-new-tudor-pelagos-fxds-for-alinghi-red-bull-racing-and-one-of-them-is-a-chronograph/" target=\"\"><u> blue and red options from the Alinghi Red Bull series</u></a> or even those <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-tudor-pelagos-fxd-cycling/" target=\"\"><u>made for Tudor's cycling team</u></a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Initially, and largely informed by the images in the press release, I felt the FXD GMT was something of a miss. The colors in the render didn't really work for me, nor did the idea that this is meant to be Pelagos, but at the same time, it's not a dive watch!?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d3de2e41-bf6d-4391-a1b5-6db5e23f92aa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Pedantic, I know, but ultimately, we've seen other Pelagos models that aren't meant for diving, and the impetus for the FXD GMT is for pilots, so the GMT-dive format makes sense (you still get 200m water resistance) as a Dive-GMT (with a dive bezel and an internal 24-hour scale) would be too fiddly to use while also flying a helicopter (I assume, but no one will let me try). To be clear, the helicopter mention is mostly in jest; it's a GMT and a Pelagos. I think that the connection to a specific element within the French military is secondary in terms of appeal for most watch enthusiasts (and yes, the signed soft keeper for the green fabric strap is removable if you don't want to wear a military insignia).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"More Time Zones"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Back to the complication, the benefit of the 24-hour bezel is that the operator doesn't need to change any hands to update the display for another timezone. One simply leaves the GMT hand at UTC-0, and then you can rotate the bezel to account for another timezone via its offset (in hours) from UTC. This layout also gives you a constant view of UTC. From a functional standpoint, the FXD GMT has the same ability as the Black Bay GMT or the Rolex GMT-Master II.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3776cf19-5339-4806-b966-e8be9479b44f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Speaking from the perspective of this vacation-class diver, you could definitely still use this bezel for a dive, especially if the plan was to use it as a backup for a dive computer. So yes, as a Pelagos nerd, I always find it unnerving to see a new model that isn't primarily designed to be a dive watch, but as Tudor expands the Pelagos to become a sort of catch-all for its modern sport watch designs, a GMT isn't all that shocking (especially compared to the cycling FXD linked above).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The GMT functionality is derived from Tudor's MT5652-U movement, which is an interesting note considering that it's a derivation of the movement from the Black Bay Pro (with the \"U\" representing METAS Master Chronometer certification). Interestingly, it's also <i>not</i> the movement from the more recent Black Bay 58 GMT (which, for the record, is 12.8mm thick and uses the MT5450-U)</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["29df8dde-7e35-431a-a9fd-934eaabe3904"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f0e5a4ec-81a8-4e83-854c-14536bf40105"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Why interesting? Because the BB Pro is 14.6mm thick, meaning the FXD GMT clocks in some 1.9mm thinner. In watch terms, this is a lot thinner. This could be a simple expression of Tudor getting better at packaging the movement (indeed, the dial of the FXD GMT is quite close to the crystal), or it could be that the bulk of the BB Pro wasn't only a question of movement thickness but rather an intentional move to give the black bay pro a feel similar to that of the core Black Bay.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Regardless, I doubt any of us will position the thinner profile as a negative. Thickness is among the core proportions that enthusiasts weigh in the mental math for a new watch, and I think the surprisingly thin profile of the FXD GMT is a big plus for Tudor. Imagine the feedback if the GMT had been 2mm thicker than the standard FXD…</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1603d883-f29d-458f-80e3-440578f48a0b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In-person, my initial concerns about the coloring and the GMT-ness faded quickly. While I would personally prefer a colorway closer to that of the Pelagos 39, the FXD GMT looks great in person, and the blend of the tanned lume and the orange accents works much better than I expected from the photos. I also got a chance to see an FXD GMT with an original Pelagos LHD this past weekend, and the coloring looks very similar to that of the LHD.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Yes, if I were in charge, I'd likely start new models with the most neutral color (black/white, blue/white, etc) and then offer other colors down the line. Look at the success of the black FXD. Tudor is very intentional when it comes to color and they don't often start with the most conventional option, especially outside the standard/dive-focused models.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e2db7ef8-0c2e-4d31-a683-ea2c21771b7e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So we get gilt accents on the Black Bay long before something more conventional like the \"Monochrome\" BB shown at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. The first FXD had a blue dial, and the BB 58 GMT has gilt accents and a red-black coloring (and don't lose sight of the original specs for the BB and the BB58). </p>\n\n<p>For some, the color will be a major appeal; for others, it will keep the credit card in a holding pattern while they wait for the promise of an ideal colorway. And while I don't have a crystal ball that allows me to see into Tudor's future, they don't have a fixed playbook on how they do colorways. The original Pelagos got a few over the years, but we still only have a single colorway for the 39. So, your guess is as good as mine.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["4ac144e1-369a-4731-bdeb-bec81792924b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On wrist, the FXD GMT wears as well as any of the titanium FXDs I've tried. It sits low and flat, wears snugly, and the longer shape of the lugs is largely managed by the included hook-and-loop strap. Again, this is entirely subjective and  for your wrist.  I find the FXD to wear larger than my ideal, but it's still a very wearable and nicely proportioned watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, if you don't mind the size of the FXD – by which I mean you've tried it on, and it felt good – it's hard to really present an objective downside about the FXD GMT. The bezel is 48-click, bi-directional, and feels great. The dual lume treatment (blue for time, green for GMT, shown above) is bright and easy to discern. You get 200 meters of water resistance and a date display. The rest is pretty much core FXD, and I'd wager that the standard Black FXD model is among the best sport watches in the world right now. Unless you're like me and prefer something a bit smaller and with more strap/bracelet flexibility (then go P39).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Have I digressed? Probably. From a personal standpoint, the FXD GMT is not the Tudor GMT of my dreams, but it is a damn compelling option that is also among my fav takes on the FXD thus far. If I'm going to go for something larger than the 39, I definitely don't mind it having a complication. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["16db8226-549e-42a5-8df4-8f5a237d1fc4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, let's consider some competition as no watch, even a popular one, lives in a vacuum. The FXD GMT is offered in a single spec with a price tag of $4,625. At that price, there is a lot of competition. I'd like to dig deeper into the state of the GMT in a future story, but for now, let's consider flyer GMTs at a loosely (very loosely) similar price point. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Competition is a bit tough for these because there aren't many brands currently hitting this price point with a sporty GMT. But let's kick it off with Grand Seiko, who offers quartz GMTs like the $3,400 SBGN027 or Spring Drives like the $5,800 SBGE201, which is 44mm wide and 14.7mm thick. Grand Seiko makes many GMTs, but they are largely either less than the Tudor (thanks to being quartz) or more, like the Spring Drive SBGE201. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4e03236d-f20e-4864-b4fc-b164fc035a04"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other competition that I think is worth considering, even if it's at a price point under that of the Tudor, is Longines. For $2,975, you can grab a Hydroconquest GMT, which is 41mm wide, has a convention dive bezel, looks great, and offers a flyer GMT. No, it's not titanium, nor as willfully unconventional as the FXD, but it's still a dang good GMT from a great brand.</p>\n\n<p>Moving closer to the same price point, the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium comes in at $4,375 and is essentially the production version of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://le.hodinkee.com/longines-zulu-time-for-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Limited Edition</a> we made previously – a watch I own, love, and wear often. It's 39mm wide and a bit thicker than the Tudor at 13.5mm (but much shorter at 46.8mm). It's a great watch, easy to wear, solid movement, grade 5 titanium, etc. In my eyes, this is the strongest competition on the market for the Tudor GMTs.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bdfee079-1411-468a-b262-e48b0a4282fa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This brings me to a cascading point – and I've said similarly in the past – Tudor's main competition is probably Tudor. The FXD GMT has to stand up against the OG Black Bay GMT (which paved the way for a lot of watches), the Black Bay Pro, and the Black Bay 58 GMT, all of which are solid offerings at a similar price point.</p>\n\n<p>While I wouldn't go as far as to say that Tudor has little competition, they have been very intentional about the brand's price point, and I think it's clever that the more direct competition for the FXD GMT comes from Longines, but only within the context of having to buy the top-spec titanium model.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b6352547-743f-4a92-91f1-9d7c0b3a11b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To be clear, you can get a solid flyer GMT for under $1000 now, and that wave started with the Black Bay GMT, and now the market has evolved to the point where Tudor has to compete with itself just to remain established at a price point that they largely created in the vacuum under the the GMT-Master II. What a world, and a good one for GMT fans.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Diversification Of The Pelagos"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And that's the FXD GMT. I like it a lot. Even if it's not the Tudor GMT, I see when I close my eyes. I think they took a specific brief and tailored it to the FXD platform. Beyond the specific watch and its connection to the French Navy, I find it genuinely fascinating that the Pelagos is essentially becoming Tudor's modern professional line-up—even beyond diving.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7ceb5744-a39b-4e3a-ba69-8a3795b58cd0","baa558ab-ef0d-49e7-97da-ebb1a705b15d"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e981d00c-974b-41dd-8df2-5ae8c7c9c01b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's almost as though Tudor is taking a few pages from the script Rolex has long followed for their professional lineup, with the models reflecting the areas of Tudor's interests. Where Rolex had Everest, diving, pan-am pilots, and cave exploring, Tudor has diving, cycling, sailing, and the connection to the French Navy, now including their expression of the same function Rolex built for pilots in the '50s.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So what comes next? I think we all want to know. A Pelagos Ranger? I kid, I kit. But maybe More colors? This may not be everyone's dream Pelagos, but the dream of the Pelagos appears to be alive, well, and willing to evolve.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"1190e831-915a-40c5-b2fd-dc22dae4b089","container_id":13950,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c7a20c8d-d08c-46e7-bbe3-4941b5eb638d/L1080903.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT","created_at":"2024-12-03T11:07:18.871-05:00","updated_at":"2024-12-03T13:18:16.697-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c7a20c8d-d08c-46e7-bbe3-4941b5eb638d/L1080903.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-pelagos-fxd-gmt","full_title":"Hands-On: The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT","tags":["tudor","gmt","pelagos","fxd","zulu","new-watches-2024","fxd-gmt"]},{"id":13934,"slug":"hodinkee-has-as-new-editor-in-chief-me","column_slug":"article","title":"Hodinkee Has A New Editor-In-Chief (Me)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-11-26T10:03:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-11-25T11:45:17.568-05:00","updated_at":"2024-11-26T10:30:40.802-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>I hope you like white-dialed sport watches and GMTs (just kidding... maybe).</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":36710,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's been a long and endlessly entertaining road since I started to work with Hodinkee in 2017. So much has changed since then; Hodinkee was different, and so was the world of watches. I started as a freelancer, and the following seven years have been nothing short of an education via too many adventures to list here. Today, I'm deeply proud to announce that I have accepted the role of Hodinkee's Editor-In-Chief.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["94acf8d2-308c-4223-9069-ed1b5a860496"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Throughout these years, I've always tried to put the watch community first and cut through as much of the noise as possible, and that will remain the goal of Hodinkee's editorial direction moving forward. Many of you know me, maybe from a hangout, or a podcast, or maybe just for a certain green jacket and a Tudor GMT.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For those who don't <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/jestacey/" target=\"_blank\">know me</a>, I'll keep the CV brief. I started writing about watches in 2007 with absolutely no idea what I was doing. At the time, Hodinkee didn't exist. I have been blessed with an incredible array of opportunities since then, and my start with Hodinkee has changed my life in many ways. I've made lifelong friends, traveled the world, and gotten to work with some of the brightest and most creative minds in the space. Heck, I met my wife at Hodinkee. For me, the action is the juice.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b97006b1-fea7-4f3e-8a57-a0e147bcba7d","fdde0245-f1cc-46d1-892e-fbe177b9caee"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I don't take the job lightly or for granted, and I'm deeply excited to lead Hodinkee's editorial team at a pivotal moment in the company's future. I, along with Ben and our incredible team, plan to continue on the path of making Hodinkee a site you are excited to visit. When at its best, Hodinkee is a place with unique stories, approachable personality, industry-leading insight, and endless enthusiasm. That is the goal, and that's what we're working towards.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Will things change? Yes, of course, but I believe only for the best. We plan to experiment, expand into new platforms, and break the mold with frequency. But the core of Hodinkee will always be watch enthusiasm, and from the homepage to Instagram, TikTok, Youtube, and whatever other app you find watches on, if we're excited about it, we're going to cover it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the strategy loosely outlined, I would like to take this opportunity to thank the people who helped along the way. Christian Cantrell gave me my first gig in this industry with <i>Watch Report</i>. Ariel Adams of <i>ABlogtoWatch</i> gave me the opportunity to go way deeper into the space, really explore my curiosity, and become a more well-rounded creator.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8b4d768d-09ed-4f9c-aff0-21400155c126"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Jason Heaton has become an incredible friend, mentor, and business partner, and I simply wouldn't be doing this – or The Grey NATO – if it weren't for him, his calm energy, and his incredible insight. Stephen Pulvirent gave me my start at Hodinkee and we made some great stuff together over the years. Eneuri Acosta always led with patience and grace, both of which I needed in ways I didn't even understand. Will Holloway is a saint for putting up with me for so many years and always keeping us on track. Ben, obviously, is at the core of this promotion, and his friendship and guidance have been crucial to my development. He has always found ways to make this world exciting, fun, and rewarding. Thank you all so much.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, I'd like to say thank you to my family – my two amazing daughters and my wonderful wife, Sarah. This is not a conventional job, and sometimes, it takes up quite a lot of my time. Your support makes this possible, and I don't take it for granted.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8e2664c3-4c2c-46c6-9014-26807841df02"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Without a doubt, I haven't listed enough names. Many of you reading this have actively supported me for years, and it is my absolute goal to respect your support and move forward with the intention of enriching this space, bringing in new voices, expanding the perspective, and investing in the Hodinkee community and the watch community at large.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Thanks so much. </p>\n\n<p>Now, let's get back to why you're actually reading Hodinkee – the watches, right?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":1,"slug":"article","name":"Article","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.918-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:00.996-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"5a982866-29ba-42c5-9079-1f9e853aceea","container_id":13934,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1ac0373b-2763-44fe-b1f7-9924a057694e/James-Stacey-EIC-announcementhero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"photo of James by Mark Kauzlarich","created_at":"2024-11-25T11:45:17.632-05:00","updated_at":"2024-11-25T12:00:55.991-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1ac0373b-2763-44fe-b1f7-9924a057694e/James-Stacey-EIC-announcementhero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-has-as-new-editor-in-chief-me","full_title":"Hodinkee Has A New Editor-In-Chief (Me)","tags":["announcements","james-stacey","editor-in-chief"]},{"id":13918,"slug":"driving-something-sacrilege-at-the-audrain-tour-delegance","column_slug":"dispatch","title":"Driving Something Sacrilege At The Audrain Tour d'Elegance","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-11-21T15:00:22.541-05:00","created_at":"2024-11-18T16:14:40.158-05:00","updated_at":"2024-11-21T15:01:49.669-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A closer look at many fine automotive details and the chance to drive something totally unexpected in a vintage automotive tour – a fully electric rethinking of a vintage 911. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":16083,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"classiccars2024","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>A few weeks ago, I brought you a Photo Report from the main event for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audrainconcours.com//" target=\"_blank\">Audrain Newport Concours &amp; Motor Week</a>, the Concours d'Elegance that is held on the Sunday of the weekend and has a great many amazing cars parked on the lawn of an equally amazing Gilded Age Rhode Island estate. Today, I want to share what happened the day before the main event when I got to drive an unexpected – possibly even inappropriate – car in the Audrain Tour d'Elegance. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cd75c9a3-0237-4ab7-8966-6b793c06f5e8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We'll get to the car in question in a moment, but first, a bit of background on the tour itself. Typically, most high-profile concours events also support a tour, in which the cars are driven along a defined route like a parade. This allows locals and those who don't want to pony up for the ticketed events a way of seeing the cars, and perhaps more importantly, seeing the cars operating under their own power. For those of you who aren't big car show nerds (kudos on reading this far), events like the Audrain Concours d'Elegance are often populated by vintage cars that don't always run perfectly. </p>\n\n<p>But when they do, it's a special treat to see a pre-war race car or European classic zip past you on the picturesque streets of Newport (or indeed Highway 1 outside of Monterey, if you're me and blessed to have participated in two such tours this year). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["274ceb85-185d-416d-8b19-22327fb57212"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Audrain Tour d'Elegance saw more than 180 cars lined up by the docks in Newport while the event was staged, and each group took off on the tour route. While I brought you a wider look at many of these cars in the Audrain Concours d'Elegance photo report, I took this opportunity to focus more closely on the fine details of the cars – the headlamps, steering wheels, gauges, buttons, knobs, and assembled accouterments. </p>\n\n<p>For me – especially understanding that the chance to drive any of these cars would represent a rare opportunity – these fine details work well in photos and, I think, directly connect to the sorts of things that excite watch collectors, too. Think metal, wood, leather, and glass all coming together to make something lasting and beautiful – and often in ways that simply couldn't be replicated today.</p>\n\n<p>I'll get to the drive in a bit, but to start, dig into the details of the lovely vintage and collectable cars of the Audrain Tour d'Elegance. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8ac3aba2-dd28-436c-888b-b3fd73fe5151"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["786c1f3c-af08-4cbf-9dc5-10ab210ba60e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b32e81f2-0f37-436b-a625-a9d60dc0a874"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["72f780e8-50ac-4127-a58b-8f185823f092","7fb29ddf-d88e-4032-95f4-9bad4c23f53b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c8219af3-6643-4abf-87d6-6821ae5a8fb1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["69662a53-8bd7-4fd3-8bc2-d262f0b07b11"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["53a6d513-e77b-4dcb-bcae-f7cbffa59c4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7501b3dc-b904-453a-9358-00388c6fc9e2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["30802578-1219-449e-bc91-320b61fe31c5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["71bde2c6-47e9-4f30-9ce9-7ae5d50f5dcb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["fb12f13f-3f12-443b-87b1-7eb2bd009597"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0cc8e7f1-4a62-4b81-ab45-ebe8f1898914"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8a6250a6-c727-4a91-9515-e4cfce3359bf","045e9c09-cfbc-436f-9218-bccabbad86e8"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2add42c0-ac23-4c28-802c-1b044984fa8d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["32bed4ee-fe46-4a79-a6e3-c00bd92befac"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dd390a40-c7d1-4105-85ad-054969a69238"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["27843093-9c27-4377-a22d-50b603b2f733"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["eee65159-8546-4c06-9ae7-6c77d80ede6c","60175d03-bc8c-4571-82a2-12fcbd273c10"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["94de2b59-3951-4e90-a9b2-731aad3f6dc5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7619d513-ab5c-480a-a0e4-baadf7e14eee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["78138d8a-9e6e-4b60-8c01-3d86aaefa1c5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8e5568ba-437f-4ec7-b635-11c689891d57"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["716f613b-6f8c-4035-92e4-a7ba1367456f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1fc3d0f7-b56e-404e-8260-c5a58049f389","3f77f740-a0cb-41d5-baf8-65236bbd0e33"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1b464fbe-10a7-4320-bf38-38e9e90271a1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7a23cd79-9d1e-44f6-9863-8ed813d6296d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Driving The Sacrilege Motors Blackbird – A Fully-Electric 964-Era 911"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the weeks leading up to the Audrain Newport Concours, the team at A. Lange &amp; Söhne mentioned that I could have the opportunity to drive a car on the tour. This was an easy \"yes\" from me, so much so that I didn't pay one ounce of attention to the actual car in question for the drive. I figured maybe something pre-war or maybe some sort of a demo vehicle from the Audrain or an automotive event sponsor. I was wrong.</p>\n\n<p>Walking along the ranks of the cars staged for the tour, I was introduced to Phil Wagenheim, one of the founders of Sacrilege Motors, the maker of \"The Blackbird,\" a 1992 964 Porsche 911 that has been fully converted to electric with a 500 horsepower motor on the back axel and a philosophy that is shaped by a specific love for the 911 but the belief that a specific type of buyer will find considerable appeal in the idea of an electric 911 that still looks, drives, and largely feels like a 911 – but you know, without the engine. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["92c4e118-f5aa-448f-9b03-893a1b40301c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["280f035e-1865-4640-9382-2b47b14ecf53","48f4c07d-6a7d-4e05-a5cd-4ba081421d10"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As a product that is downstream of the now prolific presence of 911 restomods – think of Singer, Workshop 5001, Canepa, Emory, Gunther, and literally many more – the Sacrilege Blackbird feels both similar and entirely distinct. It would take a keen eye to walk past a parked Sacrilege and immediately identify it as being something more than a standard 964 Cab. Sure, the car has been rebadged (the only Porsche logo you'll find on it is for the media unit and is produced by Porsche), and the read lighting array includes the brand's logo, which is a representation of the schematic symbol for a battery (a cool touch). </p>\n\n<p>But if you strolled by and looked into the interior, very little reveals the electric secret within. Unlike most EVs, we find very little focus given to digital screens, with only a very small screen set into the central gauge. Instead, Sacrilege has focused on the details and modified the beloved (dare I say iconic) five gauges of the 911 to display information connected to the new power source. Think temps, battery levels, and, of course, a speedometer. The cabin, much like the exterior, feels very carefully representative of the original vehicle. In short, getting into the Sacrilege Blackbird is a very recognizable experience as it's largely similar to any experience I've had in a 964 (though this was my first time in a cabriolet, and certainly my first time in a 964 that runs on a battery). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c14ae8f7-a682-4ddc-9d44-3458dc739f41"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The execution is impressive, and that's before getting to the driving experience. They have managed to make something that still feels very Porsche, aside, perhaps, from the single plane \"gear lever\" that sits where the gear selector used to live. Unsurprisingly, Sacrilege uses donor 964s as the base for their electro-resto-mods, and the process is done without cutting, meaning that the entire electrification of the Sacrilege could be reversed. That said, the price is truly eye-watering, and this car started as a 964 cab with a very early version of Porsche's Tiptronic automatic gearbox. While I understand when car enthusiasts lament modifications to classic collectibles, I'm not sure those feelings extend to the Tiptronic Cabs of this era. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["84f343ef-9bb5-4498-bde4-f65bddc4ef61"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["448a22b1-1888-475e-8877-feace8f40c64","b60355e4-e66d-4b02-a6c0-f7c064e94970"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Driving the Sacrilege is like a lesson in being in two places at once. On paper, it's a rolling contradiction of old-school 964 thinking crossed with modern-day electric vehicle tech. Getting in, sitting low into the bucket seat, all normal. The rest, well, it's something new. Everything my eyes and fingertips tell me is '90s Porsche, but with less than a whisper, the car is on. I pull the lever back and put the Blackbird into drive. With just a brush of the accelerator pedal, we're off. </p>\n\n<p>What is perhaps most interesting is that you basically get the experience of the 964 but without any noise. And not just engine noise, but transmission, rattles, vibrations, etc – all neutralized. It's calming, exceedingly easy to drive, and almost instantly confidence-inspiring. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["5e35625a-930f-4795-abdf-238830c4c8cc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Along the tour, we were mostly bopping along at low speeds, but my ADHD brain occasionally convinced me to build some space between myself and the modified Miata ahead of us in the parade. Whenever needed, and regardless of the mode the car was in, that gap was never long enough. In sport mode, you get 500 horsepower and what feels like limitless torque. Zero to 60 is said to take 3.8 seconds, and it feels even faster. And, if you happen to get deep into the throttle once you're underway, pay some attention to that speedometer, as you'll quickly be going much faster than you're allowed. After a period of boredom behind a three-wheeled motorcycle from the pre-war era, I experienced this firsthand as I dipped into the throttle and left much of the tour in our rear-view mirror. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But the speed is one thing, and you can get that speed in a Tesla if you don't mind driving a poorly-made fridge (albeit a very convenient and very fast fridge). What really stood out here is that the driving inputs, aside from the accelerator and the lack of any engine noise, feel right for a 964. It doesn't feel stuck, per se, but it does feel like a 911, and it feels like it wants to be pushed like a proper sports car. The steering is heavy but sharp and communicative, there is all kinds of grip, and anyone who has seat time in a 964 will quickly feel at home with the inputs, though you will need to recalibrate for the pace, which is not at all derived from the standard 964 experience. Then, if you want to cruise (you know, like if you've been asked to responsibly drive someone else's car in a classic car rally), the lack of engine noise makes the cabriolet all even sweeter. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["80496c94-9193-485e-95c7-6869579a7997"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you could make a 964 for 2025, I think the Sacrilege would at least represent a compelling option, especially for the type of buyer who has owned a lot of 911s and is interested in something novel. That said, the elephant in the room here is that the brand will be producing these in very, <i>very </i>low numbers, and pricing will fall in the range of $850,000. Depending on elements like donor cars and personalization of the spec, that price can move around a bit. It's a truly impressive car, but with that price tag, it needs to be. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're keen to dig deeper into what Sacrilege is offering, you can find their site <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://sacrilegemotors.com//" target=\"_blank\">here</a> and an auto journalist's take <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGv9qblqZtI\%22 target=\"_blank\">here</a> from The Curmudgeon Show with Jason Cammisa and Derek Tam-Scott (great show, by the way). Thanks to the team at Lange for making the connection and getting me some seat time in the Sacrilege and to Phil for the company on the drive and the patience to answer my many thousands of questions about the Blackbird. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8fa63429-17ef-4702-916f-018c06df49ba"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After we completed the tour route, Phil dropped me off near the Audrain Automotive museum so I could walk among the assembled cars and do a little watch spotting; here are the last few shots from a lovely morning in Newport. If you love cars, it's among the most open, approachable, and friendly events I have ever attended. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["4c84d408-7090-485c-aaff-b592ad62ce40"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9f12adbb-a9e7-48bd-9804-6698ff96ced7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9526d395-0df3-4a11-98a2-d9a44710a330"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b285c2a8-4f47-4a55-a325-fc462ae44b6e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["02efc753-f946-47b2-9cca-b00e3dfe416d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["bbb50759-54a7-4f54-b599-a8b93877412b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["88f43f13-af9d-41de-8b31-20dc91531721"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["a01bd615-248e-4090-a773-53efac70a6cf","4ea1fa94-151b-400a-b8ac-7f28ee61e701"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["29552c5a-3c44-44ec-b955-537a6e1e1bcf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["90c87ea9-350c-4bf5-846c-1dc6a27edb69"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":235,"slug":"dispatch","name":"Dispatch","description":"Watch-focused stories from around the globe.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2022-02-03T13:06:42.188-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-06T14:41:35.094-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"df60f436-f1a3-4dc4-ba8d-4841017ab75d","container_id":13918,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/6115a088-fe7b-49de-9616-7f783c6157a0/L1070684-2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"the audrain concors","created_at":"2024-11-18T16:14:40.219-05:00","updated_at":"2024-11-18T16:14:40.219-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/6115a088-fe7b-49de-9616-7f783c6157a0/L1070684-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/driving-something-sacrilege-at-the-audrain-tour-delegance","full_title":"Dispatch: Driving Something Sacrilege At The Audrain Tour d'Elegance","tags":["a-lange-sohne","automotive","911","audrain","sacrilege "]},{"id":13921,"slug":"audrain-concours-lawn-walk-2024","column_slug":"video","title":"Audrain Concours Lawn Walk With Wilhelm Schmid Of A. Lange & Söhne & Donald Osborne And Nic Waller Of The Audrain Group","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-11-20T11:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-11-19T11:52:33.767-05:00","updated_at":"2024-11-20T12:40:17.557-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Highlights from a special walk of the lawn at the Audrain Newport Concours. </p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6364911615112","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":19358,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"classiccars2024","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last month, I attended the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/exploring-the-2024-audrain-newport-concours-with-a-lange-and-sohne/" target=\"_blank\">2024 outing of the Audrain Newport Concours</a> as a guest of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/exploring-the-2024-audrain-newport-concours-with-a-lange-and-sohne/" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange &amp; Söhne</a> to experience Rhode Island's premiere automotive event. As part of the festivities, I had the chance to tour the lawn of The Breakers – the fabulous Gilded Age estate where they park all the wonderful cars for the show – for a special video with an impressive cast of characters, including Wilhelm Schmid (CEO of A. Lange &amp; Söhne), Donald Osborne (CEO of the Audrain Group), and Nic Waller (Executive Director of the Audrain Newport Concours &amp; Motorweek). As part of an automotive-themed, two-day series on Hodinkee, we're thrilled to share a video of our Audrain Lawn Walk with a few of the personalities who make the show just so special. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["51dc102d-4667-4f13-acc6-19f5ea059037"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0c047380-cf69-40fc-9026-337532d58ea3","71b21327-1c1c-42ba-8159-3ca5fb57d61e"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Audrain Newport Concours &amp; Motorweek recently celebrated its fifth year of bringing an incredible collection of cars and programming to the shores of Rhode Island, and A. Lange &amp; Söhne continues as the event's title sponsor. We hope you love the video and this inside look at a great event that connects the worlds of automotive and horological enthusiasm. </p>\n\n<p>For more information, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/manufacture/news-and-events/audrain-newport-concours-delegance-2024/" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange &amp; Söhne's</a> Audrain page and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audrainconcours.com//" target=\"_blank\">The Audrain Concours</a> online. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":70,"slug":"video","name":"Video","description":"Explore past and present HODINKEE content, from in-depth product reviews to original video series.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2019-08-19T11:40:25.509-04:00","updated_at":"2022-06-15T10:56:30.023-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"18c73d44-2e6d-4888-8b99-2cf142367007","container_id":13921,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/933594cc-3dd1-4372-9c74-f91cd979e271/2024_Lange-Audrain_hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"A sunny outdoor scene featuring a vintage car in the center of the frame parked on grass with crowds of people standing around","created_at":"2024-11-19T11:52:33.808-05:00","updated_at":"2024-11-19T16:40:11.600-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/933594cc-3dd1-4372-9c74-f91cd979e271/2024_Lange-Audrain_hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audrain-concours-lawn-walk-2024","full_title":"Video: Audrain Concours Lawn Walk With Wilhelm Schmid Of A. Lange & Söhne & Donald Osborne And Nic Waller Of The Audrain Group","tags":["a-lange-sohne","automotive","video","audrain-concours","audrain","wilhem-schmid"]},{"id":13861,"slug":"black-onyx-and-pink-gold-these-are-the-30th-anniversary-lange-1s-from-a-lange-and-sohne","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Black Onyx And Pink Gold – These Are The 30th Anniversary Lange 1s From A. Lange & Söhne ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-23T22:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-23T08:46:38.866-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-24T13:37:00.974-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A quartet of limited edition Lange 1s for the model's 30th birthday.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":54162,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Lange 1 was launched on October 24, 1994 – 30 years ago to the day. For the 30th anniversary of the brand's decidedly asymmetrical design, A. Lange &amp; Söhne have just unveiled a quartet of limited edition models. Presented in two colorways – black onyx with a platinum case or a blue dial with a pink gold case – each version is available in either the standard Lange 1 sizing or the slightly smaller footprint of the Little Lange 1.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9b74bff3-2cad-4088-9a0d-8e6dae18b8a2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I got a few minutes to check out these new Lange 1s while I was attending the Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance in Newport, Rhode Island, a couple of weeks ago. Despite their continued success among collectors and brand acolytes, Lange remains a subtle brand, and these new Lange 1 models – and their Little Lange 1 counterparts–measure up as a very Lange way of celebrating a 30th anniversary.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As described above, there are two versions of the standard 38.5mm Lange 1, the 191.062, which has a 950 platinum case and a black onyx dial, and the 191.063, which has a 750 pink gold case and a blue dial with matching pink gold accents. For the Little Lange 1s, we have the 181.062 and the 181.063, respectively, which follow the same format aside from being 36.8mm wide. All four versions are between 9.5 and 10mm thick, and you can quickly tell the difference between the two sizes by checking for a pusher at 10 o'clock on the case flank. Only the Lange 1 (38.5mm) has this pusher.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["46a0f471-9503-4ff9-a9ac-e0eeacf2d9c8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7b15e2d8-19af-47bb-b4de-1da797a39a37","2e995df4-bfba-4db8-9b58-c53694c0f763"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside either of the sizes, we find Lange's L121.1 caliber. A manually-wound movement that supports the Lange 1's distinctive time display, as well as a power reserve and the model's well-known \"outsize date.\" Ticking at 3 Hz, the L121.1 has 72 hours of power reserve and receives the high level of hand-finishing that comes with a watch from A. Lange &amp; Söhne. This includes plates and bridges made of German silver and a balance cock that has been engraved by hand. This isn't news to anyone who has seen a Lange in person, but the finishing is lovely, and being able to turn the watch over and look at the movement is absolutely part of the experience when it comes to a Lange 1 (or any Lange, really). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["30a86982-7810-43be-925b-9edb93e2631f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Being an anniversary edition, not to mention one with a novel dial execution, it's not all that surprising that A. Lange &amp; Söhne would opt for limited production. As such, the 30th anniversary Lange 1s are limited to 300 pieces each for the Lange 1s and 150 pieces each for the Little Lange 1s. Pricing is largely \"available upon request,\" but a representative from Lange did confirm that the pink gold 191.063 reference has a retail price of EUR 49,800. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As a long-time admirer of the Lange 1 (as I'm sure is the same for many reading this), I really like both iterations, and it's remarkable just how different the two versions are in person. The pink gold feels classic, unassailable, and very self-aware of its \"grandpa charm.\" In contrast, the platinum case with the black onyx dial is much more severe but, at the same time, quiet and reserved. It's cool and clinical, but the deep, almost glowing black of the onyx bestows the models with a masculine confidence that blends nicely with the jewelry-derived appeal of the onyx dial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f11d47f9-cba3-42c1-9b14-31c2f03c56bb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The white-metal hands and completely monochromatic coloring underline the platinum's somewhat more serious and steel-adjacent look and feel. While either of these versions could be someone's one and only Lange 1, I think we would be talking about two very different prospective owners. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And really, regardless of the model or the size, these four watches are meant as a reminder of the importance of the Lange 1 to A. Lange &amp; Söhne and as service to collectors who have supported the brand over the past 30 years. In total, across four models, we are talking about 900 pieces, which is a lot for an LE from A. Lange &amp; Söhne and, I think, speaks to the brand's perspective on the Lange 1 and its foundational connection to A. Lange &amp; Söhne as the brand's most well-known model. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c584b7ef-2612-4a06-9481-98237f02adf9","c316646c-6bce-4b3f-92da-a97fe0c6d707"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b0de2943-a2c8-4255-9405-4aeebbf30941"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The collectability cannot be overlooked, especially as we start contextualizing these new models as limited editions. Past LEs from the Lange 1 family remain entirely collectible, and the Lange 1 family has grown over the past 30 years to include some ten core derivations, from models with a moon phase to world time, tourbillons, and even a perpetual calendar model. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Looking at the back catalog for the Lange 1, it's hard not to try to pick favorites. It would be amiss not to acknowledge that there's a clear tribute from the onyx variant to the collector-crowd-favorite Lange 1 101.035 \"Darth,\" down to the platinum case and color-matched date discs. With this new limited edition, having the added luxury of a gemstone dial is sort of the perfect tribute to one of the icons in the model's 30-year history and continues to reinforce the brand's strategy to save the color-matched date discs for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/darth-lange-the-new-lange-perpetual-calendar-in-platinum-and-a-brief-history-of-history-platinum-at/" target=\"_blank\">pieces in platinum</a>. </p>\n\n<p>I will forever be in love with the 2003 101.029 Lange 1 \"Luminous\" (and, while it was made of white gold, it also bears some resemblance to the new onyx dial models sans black date discs). It's also hard to argue with a Lange 1 in yellow gold, like the 1998 100-piece limited edition 112.021. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["976fadf7-7227-42c4-8859-b5c292f2963e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>These new limited-edition anniversary models join a 30-year family legacy that has spawned a solid collection of limited-edition models, though many from the back catalog were much more limited, like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-a-lange-shne-lange-1-20th-anniversary-set/" target=\"_blank\">2014 20th anniversary models</a>, which included five references (two in platinum, two in pink gold, and one in white gold), each limited to just 20 pieces. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then, in 2019, for the 25th anniversary, we saw a single reference, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-lange-1-25th-anniversary-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">the white gold 191.066 with an argente dial</a> (also offered in the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-little-lange-1-25th-anniversary-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Little Lange 1 format as 181.066</a>, limited to 25 pieces), come out as part of a 250-piece limited edition. This effectively paved the way for today's 30th-anniversary announcement. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8b5cb0a8-ff9d-4cb9-99a8-25c8d3e9123c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["69aeb964-2d2a-4095-b38c-b45d187b8a6c","a477a882-36e0-46ed-97f0-482149274689"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Lange 1 is an undeniably loveable watch. It's a bit weird, totally distinctive, and, perhaps unpredictably, has become the face of A. Lange &amp; Söhne from a design standpoint. But, after 30 years, what really stands out to me is how little Lange has evolved the original design. A modern example looks absolutely at home next to a model from 1994, and the design feels no less punchy and characterful than it did when it was released (exactly) 30 years ago. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7d39802f-4c06-4ed2-a3cf-1d2429d86340"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Happy birthday to the Lange 1 – the watch that helped establish A. Lange &amp; Söhne as a brand willing to break the mold of the conventional dress watch and, in turn, create a three-decade legacy that blended a distinctively exciting design with top-tier watchmaking. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> A. Lange &amp; Söhne<br><strong>Model:</strong> Lange 1 &amp; Little Lange<br><strong>Reference Numbers: </strong>191.062 (platinum, onyx), 191.063 (pink gold, blue), 181.062 (platinum, onyx, little), 181.063 (pink gold, blue, little)</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 38.5 (standard model), 36.8mm (Little Lange) <br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 10mm (standard, platinum), 9.8mm (standard, gold), 9.98 (Little, platinum), 9.5mm (Little, gold)<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> 950 platinum or 750 gold<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Black onyx or blue<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> Not listed<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Color-matched hand-stitched alligator</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["753fdd30-c6a1-41a0-9ad8-750c5de41ae3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Lange L121.1<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds with hacking, power reserve, grand date<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 30.6mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 5.7mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 72 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Hand-wound<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 21, 600 vph<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 43 <br><strong>Additional Details: </strong>Decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; twin mainspring barrel; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d7f33bc6-fb7f-4f5f-acab-e57e5b912a12"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> EUR 49,800 for the 191.063 (Lange 1, pink gold); ALS has advised that the other models are \"Price Upon Request\" (I tried)<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>300 pieces each for both of the Lange 1 (standard size) and 150 each of the Little Lange models</p>\n\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/ww-en/" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>.</p>\n\n<p><i>*Note: The case number, movement number, and series number have been removed from the included images at the request of A. Lange &amp; Söhne. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"a48cf442-36b2-4fb9-a59a-191b24c1d0fa","container_id":13861,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/8033fe77-6878-48fb-94e5-9f0999c64b63/L1080002.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"lange 1s ","created_at":"2024-10-23T08:46:38.943-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-23T09:05:51.632-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/8033fe77-6878-48fb-94e5-9f0999c64b63/L1080002.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/black-onyx-and-pink-gold-these-are-the-30th-anniversary-lange-1s-from-a-lange-and-sohne","full_title":"Introducing: Black Onyx And Pink Gold – These Are The 30th Anniversary Lange 1s From A. Lange & Söhne ","tags":["a-lange-sohne","lange-1","anniversary","onyx","little-lange"]},{"id":13855,"slug":"hands-on-momentum-udt-eclipse-synch-solar","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-22T09:20:00.156-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-21T11:18:29.646-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-22T09:21:23.312-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A niche and nerdy classic is reborn and ready for action. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":28250,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The world of the ana-digi watch is home to one of the weirdest and most fun niches in all of sports watches. In some ways, the ana-digi watch was the original smartwatch, combining a traditional analog time display with a screen, or screens, to display additional information.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Born following the Quartz Crisis of the mid-'70s, the ana-digi watch enjoyed a period (or two) of popularity, but the format has never really achieved true mainstream success. From the Casios, Citizens, and Chronosports of the '80s to the Omegas and Breitlings of the '90s, many brands have iterated in the space. While some of those brands found considerable and long-standing success, consider Citizen with the Skyhawk line or Breitling's Aerospace range – ana-dig watches are niche players, not brand-leading offerings.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7eecbc06-8116-482b-a584-c507892a7aa4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This past July, Canadian brand Momentum released a brand new take on a cult classic from the history of the ana-digi watch – the Chronosport UDT. Momentum's current owner used to own the now defunct Chronosport, and after the Vancouver-based brand started to re-claim some of the models from Chronosport's past – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://ca.momentumwatch.com/products/sea-quartz-30-42mm-black?variant=43903372165344\%22 target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">such as the <i>Magnum P.I</i>.-appropriate Sea Quartz 30 of 2023</a> – Momentum fans started to demand something very specific. A new UDT.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["79143bb2-e8df-40c7-82e6-84cc9c09367b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["79319a5a-369a-44f5-a830-447c93e78950","d22aeba8-957b-4c3a-9b3b-298afeb80e86"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I covered the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-momentum-udt-eclipse-synch-solar-a-modern-day-chronosport-udt/" target=\"_blank\">original release here</a>, so I won't belabor each and every detail, but the end result is a steel solar-quartz powered watch with a black ion-plated finish, a sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel, and a screen set into the dial at six o'clock. I measured my own example at 43mm wide x 11.7 thick x 48.2 lug-to-lug. </p>\n\n<p>Momentum quotes 42 x 11.7 x 47, but I think the difference is where they are measuring. The bezel is 42mm across, and the actual distance between the lug holes (not the edge of the lug horns) is ~47mm. Water resistance is 200m (with the pusher screwed down), and the markers and hands use C3 Super-LumiNova.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"UDT?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Assuming that not all of you are as deep into this specific rabbit hole as I may be, perhaps a quick history is in order. While much of Chronosport's history has yet to be collected into a single story, the UDT got its name in reference to Underwater Demolition Teams, which were created during World War II and would become the precursor to what we now know as the Navy SEALs. Granted, the watch came decades later, not in WWII but rather in the early '80s as a tech-forward dive watch that could hold up to the rigors of a SEAL team member and the team's missions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d92b1fc6-6b2e-4ef8-b26a-622d2b3d1edf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Perhaps best known for being the watch on Sylvester Stallone's wrist in <i>Rambo II</i> (1985), the Chronosport UDT came in a few different versions. The watch's base format, movement, and ana-digi display at six on the dial were the basis for other watches in the era, such as the Breitling Pluton.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As established, ana-digi is a niche, and within that niche, one will eventually find the Chronosport UDT. If you love sports watches, military provenance, and '80s maximalism – it's not too tough to see the appeal. Sure, Breitling and Citizen have carried the torch of ana-digi for the modern era, but the roots of this format and its adventurous/sketchy vibe were established by the Chronosport UDT and its friends.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar On Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The \"NewDT\" (shoutout to Tom Place for that nickname) comes in a simple box, and you can pick from an array of rubber or nylon straps. I ordered my example with the \"Black Hyper Rubber\" strap, which is a lot like any standard wave-style dive strap. It's fine, totally acceptable for a watch at this price point, but I was always planning to opt for a NATO anyway.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7856c064-21ae-46b5-a72a-b0516260e694","d6d609b1-4fff-4016-830d-fbd82cc50ce1"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["61045cfb-85db-4116-85ed-c732840d0ed1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case shape is very flat, with short lugs, a wide and flat bezel, and a flat sapphire crystal that sits in line with the edge of the bezel. The controls are all set on the three o'clock side. All three crown/pushers screw down, but you get 50m of water resistance with the crowns open (just in case). I find screw-down crown/pushers to be quite fiddly, so I'm fine with leaving them open.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The UI for the screen is simple enough. You have a time display, where you can set the time and then have it automatically update with the analog hands. This is a nice feature in that you don't have to actively synch the two (a common and sometimes complicated task). That said, the analog display is without a seconds hand, so there is one less thing to synchronize.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["23913264-22da-424b-ac20-57a84d5c22cb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The center crown, on the case next to three o'clock, cycles through the modes, including time, a second timezone, an alarm, and a chronograph. While you do have the choice of an hourly chime, and yes you can set the second time to any time you want (meaning you can account for non-full hour GMT offsets, like Newfoundland or Sri Lanka) the Momentum UDT does not have a backlight for the digital screen.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In modes that have additional \"pages\" for the screen, the top pusher (at two o'clock) can cycle through the options. This is mostly to alternate between time and the date display when you're in standard time mode. The screen is bright, easy to read, and offers nothing extra along the way. With somewhat vague feedback from the heavily actioned pushers, the whole experience is rather '80s, but it all works well enough on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c6d44589-24c4-4010-8a5c-7f479b551601"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Aside from the screen, the dial is a glassy black that supports solar charging for the movement. The hands use a somewhat incongruous polished metal surround (it feels out of place, given the matte black of the rest of the design). That being said, legibility is great. I appreciate that these hands offer lume and that the lume application for the hands and dial is solid enough for day-to-day use (especially given the lack of a backlight for the screen).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside, Momentum has opted for a Seiko/Epson AB12A, a quartz movement customized for this application. It offers solar charging, hand sync with the screen, and three months of battery life without exposure to light.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["16875e6e-a1c9-4a1b-b364-35c0f6f4ef0a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Strapped on my wrist, the Momentum UDT wears larger than I might have guessed from the proportions, but the watch is far from uncomfortable, and its sizing feels purposeful. In many ways, it wears a lot like an SKX007. For my wrist, this means big, but not at all too big.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In short, for a $370 watch, I like it a lot.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>No watch – not even some strange watches that can't decide if it's analog or digital – exists in a vacuum and the UDT is not without some semblance of competition for your ana-digi dollar. Here are a few considerations.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9c433f52-745b-49d1-9c9f-8a2f16956110"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First off, if you're looking for your first foray into ana-digi, the continued kings of value in the space are the myriad options from Casio and G-Shock. This includes – but is not limited to – CasiOaks, Protreks, and odd-ball Casios made in the last 40 years. Don't get it twisted. If you want to dip a toe into ana-digi, you can do so for less than $100, especially if you like to dig through eBay's digital drawers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you want specifics, check out the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=abe1209c8be175c1&amp;sxsrf=ADLYWIKO6X3OLOZAX4jHiTpNTWbmcIsCYQ:1729525468730&amp;q=Casio+Wave+Ceptor+Solar&amp;udm=2&amp;fbs=AEQNm0CrHVBV9axs7YmgJiq-TjYc7RgyMjmhctvLCnk5YpVfOzTk9UgrCkq1LL6wECoQ_WEFKodFZzrO9Rycr6gzIIE_GE6faBIVW8AaN8pHu7JsvCEmwb_2EUGbzaH5rxuISXp5Ba3QnSxmNxAmlx22SlSvcCkhT3CpgZ4BISVFLYcMDinYKoOu3MpNdraF7tzp0CwgCYFAtacqOvW21VXAysPWvOkZDw&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjR_MW56J-JAxWFnokEHckWEvkQtKgLegQICRAB&amp;biw=864&amp;bih=958&amp;dpr=2\%22 target=\"_blank\">Casio Wave Ceptor Solar</a>, which comes in a variety of versions for around $100 and is 40mm wide while offering both a backlight for the screen and atomic radio synch for the movement. Solid stuff, if lacking the slickness, style, and cool factor of the Momentum.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["656b9f9e-2892-493b-87df-b3fb09b4493e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the next rung on this ladder, you're likely going to land with Citizen, which makes a wide array of ana-digi models. Specifically, I think the value comes in here if you want to spend more than what the Momentum UDT costs. At $440 you can get one of my favorite watches in existence, the Aqualand JP2007-17W. A modernized take on Citizen's dive computer before dive computers existed, this Aqualand has a lume dial, wears like a dream, and even has a depth sensor for diving. That said, it's quite a bit bigger than the UDT (though I'd argue it wears just as well).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For a more modern execution, Citizen recently launched a new ana-digi, the Promaster Land U822, which has a higher-resolution MIP display, a backlight, and additional features. It's on the market for around $700 and is larger at 44mm wide. I have a couple of these for review, and they are lovely, easy to use, and quite useful.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["23921fdf-47be-4718-8da3-21553b5e0116"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Seiko also gets into this market with options like the Arnie, which is quite a bit larger than the UDT, but has a backlight and retails for ~$525. I like these a lot – and I did a hands-on with the SNJ025 here – but I like the UDT more. Ideally, get one of each to have the action star pairing we all need (I kid, maybe, not sure). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Beyond that, you're spending a lot more on something like a Breitling (second-hand 40mm Aerospace references are still slept on). For the asking price, the Momentum UDT isn't without competition – there are so many good options available today – but there aren't exactly any one-to-one comps.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6ed1c2ba-3793-42ce-a109-820e7e737e43"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"In Closing "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And really, that's the essay here, as Momentum has done a lovely job of creating an affordable UDT that feels of the Chronosport lineage but doesn't attempt to be a direct recreation of any of the old models. While I understand that Chronosport acolytes might have preferred something closer to a clone of one of the originals, I think Momentum was wise to make their own thing within the confines of a new movement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7b157155-a45c-456d-a263-0a7f0d771e3b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Yes, I'd love to see future versions with backlights and seconds hands (not to mention bare steel and other dial colors), but it's hard to complain at this price point and at this level of execution for a first outing from Momentum. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For $379, it's a whole lot of fun and would make a great quartz option for those who largely stick to mechanical watches. It's sporty, specific, a bit weird, and totally nerdy. </p>\n\n<p>Welcome back, UDT. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"3a54bc3d-f18c-4f03-b4ea-f1b0eab4596d","container_id":13855,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/a1e8d2c5-a235-4ad5-844f-ee10043b8620/L1070111.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"momentum UDT","created_at":"2024-10-21T11:18:29.853-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-21T11:18:29.853-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/a1e8d2c5-a235-4ad5-844f-ee10043b8620/L1070111.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-momentum-udt-eclipse-synch-solar","full_title":"Hands-On: The Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar","tags":["chronosport","solar","momentum","udt","ana-digi"]}]}">