exceptional, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2017/important-watches-ge1701/lot.127.html/" target=\"_blank\">interesting</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/auctions/auction/CH080117/filter/Artist=Richard Mille/" target=\"_blank\">unique</a>, and collectible watches in that category that deserve their place in the auction room, and which sell (Phillips sold every modern watch in their catalogue). </p>\n\n<p>But the truth is, way too many modern watches don’t. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/iwc-schaffhausen-a-fine-new-old-stock-6067372-details.aspx?from=salesummery&amp;intObjectID=6067372&amp;sid=698ab6f7-9860-4246-8814-bc584cd2ab6c\%22 target=\"_blank\">An unworn Mark XVII</a> (a watch launched by the brand only three years ago) isn't \"New Old Stock,\" it's new, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/rolex-a-fine-and-rare-unworn-18k-6067490-details.aspx/" target=\"_blank\">an Everose Yacht-Master ref. 116655</a> is \"fine\" but definitely not \"rare\" – not when two different auction houses are selling examples on the same weekend, and not when your local AD can get you the watch for approximately the same price (even if that means joining a waiting list). But don’t take my word for it. Collectors themselves expressed their disinterest in these watches. Only 68% of the modern watches found a buyer during the weekend.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["66e5332a-4a72-44a5-b356-6254a0140ba1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Auction Houses Need To Adapt To Newfound Popularity"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["08a95e98-2f86-4c4b-8a59-af54271404d6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The top auction houses had no issues getting people to their previews, and enthusiasts are flying (and driving) to Geneva in unprecedented numbers. The final previews were very well attended by collectors, members of the press, and the curious. It’s become such a crowded affair that some shared their frustration at having to wait (what was sometimes a very long time) to see watches they were very seriously considering acquiring.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c7cea281-5205-4074-a1e9-176092fc84b1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Auction houses find themselves in an awkward position, where they do not want to restrict access to specific watches to real clients – and that’s precisely the last thing they should do – but aren’t sure what returns they are getting from showing these pieces to everyone. The number of spectators is growing just as fast as the number of collectors, and the only ones currently identifying themselves as non-buyers are members of the press. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2291a320-96fa-43e5-aae9-9d7a32b2cfe1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s a new reality that auction houses are going to have to deal with, and while they should definitely continue to treat all of their potential clients equally, maybe they shouldn’t treat the watches that way. Because they belong to private individuals, and since they are going to belong to other private individuals, these watches need to be handled with extreme care, and they are. But then there are museum quality pieces, such as the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bao-dai-phillips-most-expensive-rolex-ever-sold/" target=\"_blank\">Bao Dai</a> and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/emporer-haile-selassie-patek-philippe-ref-2497-christies-record/" target=\"_blank\">Haile Selassie</a>, that have just been handled by more people this weekend than in the rest of their existence. Surely, there comes a point when the popularity of a watch can be detrimental to its condition. It just can’t be good for a piece with already damaged luminescent hour and minute hands to be taken out of the cabinet hundreds of times a day for a quick wristshot. You don’t have to drive the cars at a concourse to enjoy them, do you? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Invisible Collectors Are Transforming Auction Rooms"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["498d4b91-9030-4a78-8406-b75a9b8e5d80"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watches that fetched the highest bids over the weekend were the Bao Dai, the Haile Selassie, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gold-oyster-paul-newman-daytona-phillips-geneva/" target=\"_blank\">“The Legend” ref. 6263</a>, and all three were contested by prominent collectors who have been buying and selling at auction since way before the same watches started trading for millions of dollars. There were plenty more serious collectors in the room, and auction houses are definitely attracting a new crop of watch collectors, most of them from Asia and the Middle East, but so far the ones going for the really expensive stuff are keeping their distance, placing their bids online or through the phones.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That's great, but if auction houses want to retain their entertainment value, they are going to need to replenish their audiences with strong and vocal supporting casts, or learn how to involve invisible and mute characters. Auctioneers still have a very important role to play (and some are excelling as soloists), but it's a very different role from what they're used to. At the moment, Aurel Bacs is the only auctioneer capable of making a phone bid just as entertaining (if not more) than a room bid, and that's one of the many reasons Phillips has been so dominant since it added his name to their watch department.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rolex Is King "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d51a8a1b-4b20-4f84-8c32-d16351376107"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The story this weekend was the not-so-distant battle fought between between the Bao Dai at La Reserve, and the Haile Selassie at the Four Seasons. These are two watches with unique imperial connections, made in the same precious metal, and presenting deceptively similar black faces (save for a few diamonds), but one of them was a triple date and the other a perpetual calendar. It would make sense for the perpetual calendar to fetch a much higher price at auction, right? Well, that watch (arguably the one with the most interesting provenance, and definitely the least available of the two before the auction) made only half what the simple calendar made, and that raises some interesting questions about the collectibility of Rolex vs. Patek Philippe.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fff7b127-b242-4aef-9eaf-cad0522d476c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This weekend, Rolex really owned its crown. Vintage Rolex reigned over all other watches. Phillips sold the most expensive Rolex in the world, the second most expensive Rolex in the world, and the fourth most expensive Rolex in the world. If you're wondering about the third most expensive Rolex in the world, it was sold 12 months ago (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/recapping-the-88-epic-stainless-steel-chronographs-sale-at-phillips-a-100-auction-with-several-massive-hits-strong-showing-from-niche-brands/" target=\"_blank\">again, by Phillips</a>). Back at the Four Seasons, where Christie's dedicated an entire afternoon session to Rolex, the Crown filled every position in the top five results behind the Haile Selassie. I do believe Patek Philippe remains the epitome of watch collecting. The Bao Dai may have set a new record, but the overall most expensive wristwatch, a stainless steel Patek Philippe 1518, is way, way in front (and it's not even a unique watch). But this week belonged to one brand and one brand only. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Unusual Is In"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["28648178-a2f7-40b0-b872-96b173943a03"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Unique pieces are still collectible, the Daytona bubble is ballooning, nothing out of the ordinary so far. But one of the most interesting trends of this auction season was the popularity of <i>different</i>. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/white-gold-submariner-world-record-christies/" target=\"_blank\">The new most expensive Submariner</a> is not a very pretty Submariner at all, but it's a unique prototype. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gold-oyster-paul-newman-daytona-phillips-geneva/" target=\"_blank\">The new most expensive Paul Newman</a> doesn’t look have the typical Paul Newman look. And the biggest surprises of the week were <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.antiquorum.swiss/bidding/#/sales/78728/lots/16883942\" target=\"_blank\">an oversized split-seconds chronograph </a>and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/GÜBELIN/CH080117/64/" target=\"_blank\">a very atypical square chronograph</a> from an almost forgotten manufacturer, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/audemars-piguet-a-fine-and-very-rare-6067421-details.aspx?from=salesummery&amp;intObjectID=6067421&amp;sid=c2c43b41-b5d6-4d7c-9beb-05e477ce0419\%22 target=\"_blank\">a very atypical time-only Audemars Piguet</a> that most collectors did not even know existed. </p>\n\n<p>These results can only be positive for the world of vintage watch collecting. It acts as a reminder that there are still plenty of undiscovered gems, never before seen in the auction room, and it will no doubt encourage collectors to go out and uncover the next grail.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"97bb254a-cdcc-44a3-966d-8f0fae137358","container_id":4510,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1495121922694-q47y22xqf19-e1d240736b365ebe1ed58f88596d4b39/IMG_9509.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-18T05:59:10.023-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-21T16:21:53.164-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1495121922694-q47y22xqf19-e1d240736b365ebe1ed58f88596d4b39/IMG_9509.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seven-takeaways-from-geneva-auction-week","full_title":"In-Depth: Seven Takeaways From Geneva Auction Week ","tags":["auctions"]},{"id":4507,"slug":"three-audemars-piguet-watches-that-stole-the-show-in-geneva","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"Three Audemars Piguet Watches That Stole The Show In Geneva","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-18T11:08:28.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-17T04:13:09.779-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:57.887-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Here's why vintage AP is still one of the most exciting and surprising categories in collecting.<br></p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":30906,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p class=\"\">This week's auctions brought plenty of big results, many of them pretty predictable. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/emporer-haile-selassie-patek-philippe-ref-2497-christies-record/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex ref. 6062 \"Bao Dai\"</a> sold for over $5 million, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/emporer-haile-selassie-patek-philippe-ref-2497-christies-record/" target=\"_blank\">Haile Selassie's Patek Philippe ref. 2497</a> sold for $2.9 million, and even <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/white-gold-submariner-world-record-christies/" target=\"_blank\">this weird Submariner</a> set a world record. But there were some surprises too, especially on Audemars Piguet's side. Royal Oaks continued to do well (again, not that shocking), but pre-1972 AP did <i>so much better </i>than the usual suspects. Here are three lots that blew us, and the bidders, away.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Phillips Lot 198 – Ref. 5504 Triple Calendar"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2fa6fa83-5808-43ae-aa34-d3fcefb21ff7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One watch we always knew would do well is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/AUDEMARS-PIGUET/CH080117/198/" target=\"_blank\">this yellow gold ref. 5504</a> offered by Phillips. Audemars Piguet made only 20 of these triple calendars, more than half of which are currently MIA. Isn't it just beautiful? There's so much open space on the dial, the typography is crisp and clean, and the indications are all extremely easy to read. It's elegant, but not in a fussy way.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Audemars Piguet’s museum has four of the nine known models (the only reason why it didn't go after this watch itself), so the sale of this particular example represented a rare opportunity for collectors to acquire one of the finest triple calendar watches of the 20th century. And that fact wasn’t lost on them. Collectors went in hard for the watch, and lot 198 ended up selling for $131,106, more than double its very conservative low estimate. </p>\n\n<p>Original estimate: $59,500 to $89,200</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Christie's Lot 134 – A Stainless Steel Time-Only"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["134821e3-9503-4525-973f-1157bdfc92c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p> Possibly the most unexpected, most unassuming, and most beautiful watch on sale this weekend was this stainless steel time-only wristwatch with teardrop lugs. Made in 1947, it was sold two years later to Bittmann, a well-known Swiss jeweler based in the little alpine town of St. Moritz, to whom the Swiss manufacture sold several complicated wristwatches. I can tell you a few people on our team were eyeing this watch before the sale, and obviously we weren’t the only ones. The watch flew past the high estimate, and bidding didn’t slow down until it reached the six-figure mark. In the end, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/audemars-piguet-a-fine-and-very-rare-6067421-details.aspx?from=salesummery&amp;intObjectID=6067421&amp;sid=c2c43b41-b5d6-4d7c-9beb-05e477ce0419\%22 target=\"_blank\">lot 134 sold for $125,291</a>, and I can confirm none of us won that bidding war. Sadly.</p>\n\n<p>Original estimate: $9,954 to $14,930</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Christie's Lot 135 – A Square Full Calendar Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["67f839db-688f-4931-8c89-e4f8ea6b2c2e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The very next lot was another rare Audemars Piguet that sold for even more. A full calendar in a precious white metal case with movable lugs, this IS one of the complicated wristwatches Bittmann received from Audemars Piguet in the 1920s. It's also one of Audemars Piguet’s first full calendar wristwatches, and one of the first full calendar wristwatches <i>full stop</i>. A potentially unique wristwatch, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/audemars-piguet-an-extremely-fine-attractive-and-6067422-details.aspx?from=salesummery&amp;intObjectID=6067422&amp;sid=c2c43b41-b5d6-4d7c-9beb-05e477ce0419\%22 target=\"_blank\">lot 135 sold for $171,649</a>. And, just like that, two watches that Christie's thought might take $95,000 on a good day took in almost $300,000 combined.</p>\n\n<p>Original estimate: $49,768 to $79,629</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A final fun fact: Together, these three watches sold for more than all of the Royal Oaks (nine in total, 10 if you count Offshores) from the Christie's and Phillips sales combined. Not bad at all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"c175336f-186f-40b8-a790-eb8c1902ca48","container_id":4507,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1495029585168-kbpz9qvaiir-3e1dafd8cb2e15df623efa5343378dd0/IMG_8843.jpg","width":1957,"height":1101,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-17T04:13:09.852-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-17T09:59:50.711-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1495029585168-kbpz9qvaiir-3e1dafd8cb2e15df623efa5343378dd0/IMG_8843.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-audemars-piguet-watches-that-stole-the-show-in-geneva","full_title":"Auctions: Three Audemars Piguet Watches That Stole The Show In Geneva","tags":["audemars-piguet","auctions"]},{"id":4494,"slug":"emporer-haile-selassie-patek-philippe-ref-2497-christies-record","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"Emperor Haile Selassie’s Patek Philippe Ref. 2497 Sells For $2.9 Million","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-15T08:03:39.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-12T07:13:29.671-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:55.040-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Christie’s sells Selassie’s watch at the second asking in an old-school battle of watch dealer royalty.<br></p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":50874,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"short","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>One watch that everyone has been closely following these past few hours is this Patek Philippe reference 2497 with black gilt dial. The reason? The last time Christie’s tried to sell the watch ended with its dramatic removal minutes before the sale, due to an ownership title dispute.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["314a02ea-0203-4b54-9a9c-511322c5a6dc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So you can imagine the tension this morning at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, in Geneva, as the same team prepared for the second round, two years after the first. Thomas Perazzi was visibly relieved the moment he announced the first official bid, and soon the entire room forgot about the controversial matter, focusing instead on how well this unique black gilt dial 2497 would fare on its first public sale. Very well is the answer. The watch, which has attracted a lot of attention not only because of the previous mishap but because of the original and unique nature of the piece itself, ended up selling for $2,898,000 after an epic old school battle between two prominent dealers – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-alfredo-paramico/" target=\"_blank\">Alfredo Paramico</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-1518-steel/" target=\"_blank\">Davide Parmegiani</a> – and a private collector, all of them in the room during the sale and armed with their red Christie's paddle in hand. Eventually, Mr. Parmegiani took the prize home.</p>\n\n<p>The sale had a markedly different feel than the top lots at Phillips, which were won primarily by anonymous telephone bidders from Asia and elsewhere – this lot was duked out in person by known players, all of which are very much part of the watch collecting scene and have been for decades. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The result is one that due to the known ownership issues has to be considered a resounding win for Christie's and further validation that the watch auction world is much larger than just what occurs under the tent at La Reserve. </p>\n\n<p>Or maybe there's something to gain from a false start?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more information, please visit the official <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/features/Made-for-an-Emperor-The-Haile-Selassie-Patek-Philippe-6725-1.aspx/" target=\"_blank\">Christie's website</a>. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"0c0e52ff-f55a-40f3-911f-a6a353cbc682","container_id":4494,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1494849468410-q19foz6c5js-dd7d4139ee26341db99c585c0a7a29ae/IMG_9586.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-12T07:13:29.719-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-15T07:59:16.491-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1494849468410-q19foz6c5js-dd7d4139ee26341db99c585c0a7a29ae/IMG_9586.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/emporer-haile-selassie-patek-philippe-ref-2497-christies-record","full_title":"Auctions: Emperor Haile Selassie’s Patek Philippe Ref. 2497 Sells For $2.9 Million","tags":["christies","patek-philippe","auctions","vintage-patek"]},{"id":4495,"slug":"gold-oyster-paul-newman-daytona-phillips-geneva","column_slug":"breaking_news","title":"Oyster Paul Newman In Gold Pulls $3.7 Million And Becomes The Most Expensive Daytona Ever Sold At Auction","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-14T16:25:03.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-12T07:13:48.262-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:55.208-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Another record-breaking Rolex brings big results on the second day of Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: Five.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":99135,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"short","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>They say you should keep the best for last, and that’s precisely what Phillips did today. While yesterday’s top lot was the ref. 6062 \"Bao Dai\" – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bao-dai-phillips-most-expensive-rolex-ever-sold/" target=\"_blank\">again the most expensive Rolex in the world</a> – the highest price paid for a Rolex in today’s sale was for lot 237/237. This gold Daytona, known simply as \"The Legend\" fetched a whopping $3,717,906, making it the most expensive Daytona ever sold publicly.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4ce16eea-330c-48b6-9702-ce84e13d2a40"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This was by far the most significant Paul Newman on sale this weekend. It is indeed one of only three known yellow gold Oyster Paul Newman Daytonas, and it's a ref. 6263 with a lemon <i>grené</i> dial. It's easy to understand why this extremely beautiful example attracted so much attention. In the end, it became the subject of a theatrical bidding war between two gentlemen in the room. The eventual winner even decided to get up and walk out of the auction room before Aurel Bacs finally dropped his gavel. He turned around just in time to hear confirmation of his winning bid, but he was the first person out of the auction room. Perhaps he was just keen on getting his hands on his new watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Legend really earned its name tonight. In addition to setting a new world record for any Daytona sold at auction, it also became the second most expensive Rolex ever sold, behind <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bao-dai-phillips-most-expensive-rolex-ever-sold/" target=\"_blank\">the ref. 6062 \"Bao Dai\"</a> that set the new overall world record for any Rolex just yesterday. (The Legend even finished well ahead of the former runner-up, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/recapping-the-88-epic-stainless-steel-chronographs-sale-at-phillips-a-100-auction-with-several-massive-hits-strong-showing-from-niche-brands/" target=\"_blank\">this ref. 4113 split-seconds</a>.) That means Phillips has sold the three most expensive Rolex watches in the world, in just twelve months no less, and number one and number two in the space of 24 hours. Not bad at all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more information, <a target=\"_blank\" href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/ROLEX/CH080117/237/">visit Phillips online</a>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":3,"slug":"breaking_news","name":"Breaking News","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.942-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:53.582-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"92d1f688-4c76-479f-a4c0-e10bb2097730","container_id":4495,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1494587033637-0jikxfmdvxbe-298dc981f29c05d2ea8e574da3775bfa/Rolex_6263Lemon-3.jpg","width":2000,"height":1335,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-12T07:13:48.315-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-12T07:13:48.315-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1494587033637-0jikxfmdvxbe-298dc981f29c05d2ea8e574da3775bfa/Rolex_6263Lemon-3.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gold-oyster-paul-newman-daytona-phillips-geneva","full_title":"Breaking News: Oyster Paul Newman In Gold Pulls $3.7 Million And Becomes The Most Expensive Daytona Ever Sold At Auction","tags":["rolex","auctions","phillips","vintage-rolex"]},{"id":4500,"slug":"sothebys-patek-philippe-caliber-89-may-2017","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"Patek Philippe Caliber 89 Fails To Sell (Again)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-14T14:55:49.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-13T17:57:45.730-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:56.137-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>The most complicated watch of this auction season isn't going home with a new owner.<br></p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":60525,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"short","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more than 25 years, the Patek Philippe Caliber 89 was known as the most complicated watch in the world (that title now belongs to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/live-photos-of-vacheron-57260/" target=\"_blank\">the Vacheron Constantin ref. 57260</a>), and it is still the most complicated Patek Philippe ever made. It measures 88.2mm in diameter, weights around 2.4 lbs, and features 33 complications. Only four were made, one each in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, and in platinum, and at the moment, the yellow gold version is having a very hard time finding a new home. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fceb3ad9-31f4-4643-84e2-c0462c6ba737"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We went <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/sothebys-to-offer-a-patek-philippe-caliber-89-in-may-at-the-important-watches-geneva-auction/" target=\"_blank\">hands-on with this momentous watch</a> when the owner decided to consign the watch through Christie’s last year. The watch failed to meet the asking price, then set at $11 million, which is how it ended up at Sotheby’s this weekend with a very broad estimate range of 6,500,000 to 10,000,000 CHF. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["96e17114-bcce-4d12-a9d7-cdc0859c7786"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Despite interest from onlookers in the room, the watch ultimately did not meet its reserve and once again finds itself going back home to a reluctant owner, who is going to find it increasingly difficult to part with it unless he accepts a much lower price for the watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more information, <a target=\"_blank\" href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/news-video/videos/2017/calibre-89-patek-philippe-most-complicated-watch.html/">visit Sotheby's online</a>. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"4c74171e-8dd7-4409-ae46-a0705110876f","container_id":4500,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1464016834332-xx56kmd1yo11ht7c-3f304d3a4c051da75280a9f978a12804/20019988_copy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-13T17:57:45.844-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-13T17:57:45.844-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1464016834332-xx56kmd1yo11ht7c-3f304d3a4c051da75280a9f978a12804/20019988_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/sothebys-patek-philippe-caliber-89-may-2017","full_title":"Auctions: Patek Philippe Caliber 89 Fails To Sell (Again)","tags":["patek-philippe","vintage-patek","sotheby's"]},{"id":4493,"slug":"bao-dai-phillips-most-expensive-rolex-ever-sold","column_slug":"breaking_news","title":"Ref. 6062 'Bao Dai' Sells For $5,060,427, Becoming The Most Expensive Rolex Ever Sold At Auction (Again)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-13T15:18:39.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-12T07:07:06.593-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:54.839-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Bow down to the new king of the crown.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":174998,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"short","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Rolex reference 6062 \"Bao Dai\" just sold for $5,060,427, making it the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction. The watch sold as lot 93 of today's Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: Five, setting the new world record (as everyone expected).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This unique ref. 6062 is special for a number of reasons. It is the only known example of the ref. 6062 with a black dial and diamond indexes, <i>and </i>it belonged to the last emperor of Vietnam, who was quite the character. Many expected it to break the previous Rolex record (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/recapping-the-88-epic-stainless-steel-chronographs-sale-at-phillips-a-100-auction-with-several-massive-hits-strong-showing-from-niche-brands/" target=\"_blank\">held by a split-seconds chronograph ref. 4113 sold by Phillips just 12 months ago</a>), but the Bao Dai smashed past the CHF 2.5 million mark right from the start, and the only unknown left was how far collectors would go for this watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["eda78918-5f0a-443a-bc8b-f032df0e72ac"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The result means the Bao Dai reclaims a record which it set in 2002, when it was sold for $235,000. In other words, the value of this watch is 21 times what it was 15 years ago. Pretty insane. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["561085b4-85d3-4149-90e3-a0b697266654"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bao-dai-rolex-reference-6062-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">Be sure to read Louis's in-depth report on this watch here</a>, and stay tuned for more reports live from the Geneva auctions all weekend and into Monday.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":3,"slug":"breaking_news","name":"Breaking News","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.942-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:53.582-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"1a8e74c6-55f1-41f0-adcf-15862463ce43","container_id":4493,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1494587176794-2p6nx1t8kwv-93a3a0b5fdd65d3e338acfd892509e6e/Rolex6062BaoDai-9.jpg","width":2000,"height":1335,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-12T07:07:06.672-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-12T07:07:06.672-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1494587176794-2p6nx1t8kwv-93a3a0b5fdd65d3e338acfd892509e6e/Rolex6062BaoDai-9.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bao-dai-phillips-most-expensive-rolex-ever-sold","full_title":"Breaking News: Ref. 6062 'Bao Dai' Sells For $5,060,427, Becoming The Most Expensive Rolex Ever Sold At Auction (Again)","tags":["rolex","auctions","phillips"]},{"id":4489,"slug":"military-seamaster-300-served-its-country-survived","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"A Military Seamaster 300 That Served Its Country (And Survived)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-12T12:23:04.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-11T11:36:03.387-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:53.918-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Could this be the most interesting dive watch in this week's auctions?<br></p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":67359,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s February 26, 1970, and the H.M.S Hubberston is anchored somewhere in the Pacific Ocean, a few miles away the Japanese island of Okinawa. On board, J.B. Fisher is getting ready for a dive during which he hopes to locate an aircraft wreck some 60 feet beneath the water’s surface. A typical mission for a Royal Navy diver. The last thing Fisher does before jumping into the water? He adjusts the bezel of his trusty watch, setting the countdown for his dive. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Omega Seamaster 300"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fd32e0da-9aca-4916-b569-09c7848c7460"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Omega introduced the Seamaster 300 in 1957, four years after the introduction of the first professional diving wristwatch – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms – and the Rolex Submariner. The Seamaster 300 wasn’t Omega’s first Seamaster, but it was the first true professional dive watch, receiving an official water resistance rating of 200 meters, the maximum depth to which the company could test its watches back then.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Together with the Speedmaster and the Railmaster, the Seamaster 300 was part of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/first-take-the-new-omega-releases-baselworld-2017/" target=\"_blank\">a new trilogy of professional-grade wristwatches</a> that used the same case and handset, the Seamaster 300 being aimed at professional divers. For practical reasons, Omega decided to manufacture all three pieces using the same base components, including the same cases and hands, but each piece would evolve to more specifically address the needs of the end user. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first generation Seamaster 300, the ref. CK 2913-1, measured 39mm, and had straight lugs, a thin 60-minute bezel divided in 10-minute intervals, and broad arrow hands. The second generation, introduced seven years after the first, was 42mm, had chunkier twisted lugs, and also featured a wider bezel with hashes for every minute. Omega introduced two versions, the no-date ref. 165.024 and the ref. 166.024 with a date at three o’clock. The British armed forces gave the former model the nod.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"J.B. Fisher’s Seamaster 300"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d296894e-1407-474d-954a-f2ec352aec37"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The British Ministry of Defence took delivery of military Seamster 300s between 1967 and 1971. Both the British Royal Navy and the Army received watches, the only distinction between the two batches being the markings used to identify the military branch for which they were meant. The first were engraved with number “0552,\" while the second were engraved with “W10.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Being military watches, they differ from the original Seamaster 300 ref. ST 165.024 in a few notable ways. Besides the military issue markings at the back, they also feature fixed bars between the lugs, an encircled “T” on the dial to indicate the use of tritium, mil-spec hands, and a screw-down crown.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>A “mil-spec” is a watch made according to military specifications outlined by a national government. Many watch companies delivered military issued watches over the course of the 20th century. The majority were based on civilian models, and were generally more robust, retaining only the most useful features. The most well-known military diving wristwatches are the Omega Seamaster 300, and the Rolex Military Submariner, also known as the MilSub, which adopted some of the characteristics of the Seamaster 300 and eventually replaced it as the Royal Navy’s chosen diver. Panerai also made military diving watches, but these were only available to the public much later. </p>","title":"What Exactly Is Mil-Spec?","images":["468f7e01-d7e0-49fa-a6fc-b2835741e49a"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Fisher’s Seamaster was delivered to the British Royal Navy in 1968, and for a few years it served him well. Fisher kept meticulous records of his missions in his personal log, which provides a fascinating account of the life of Royal Navy diver. While the watch is not mentioned (why would it be?), we know he had to have been wearing it, both because it was part of his official diving gear and because it was a <i>vital</i> part of his diving gear. What isn’t clear is how Fisher managed to hold onto the watch. The most probable explanation is that he reported it lost, perhaps after the Ministry of Defense’s decision in 1971 to replace the Seamaster 300 with the MilSub. Or maybe even before? There is an entry for the \"search of a lost watch\" on December 15, 1969. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Fisher's Seamaster 300 was discovered by a private collector following what was described to me as a \"fierce hunt\"and it was sold only once to second private collector. The watch now comes to Phillips via the latest owner and this is the first time it is being offered publicly via auction. For this reason it should attract loads of interest, and it will be very interesting to see what collectors believe is a fair price for a truly field-tested mil-spec dive watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["850a19f4-5832-4066-b085-ce36a68a3154"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Collectibility"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3d863fe1-6b18-41f5-ab6d-e8536accf531"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Collectors are drawn to military watches for sentimental reasons, for sure. These watches served their respective countries and are witnesses to important chapters of history. But what makes these watches truly valuable is the scarcity of models still in good original condition. Whether they were worn by the infantry, by pilots, or by divers, very few made it through relatively unscathed. The majority either carry replacement parts, were damaged beyond repair, were kept by militaries and possibly destroyed, or were simply lost. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080117/103/" target=\"_blank\">Lot 103 in this weekend's Phillips sale</a> in Geneva is one of the finest examples of a military Seamaster 300 in original condition, of which there are already very few. And while we can only imagine where most of these watches have been, we have a very good idea of where this one went, when it was used, how deeply it traveled under water, and for how long. The rarity, condition, and provenance of this watch, together with the vivid images that Fisher captured in his log, elevate the status of this little survivor into grail territory. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2957a6cf-06a7-42fd-8c70-d934f3416765"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Fisher’s Seamaster 300 is a great example of a watch that may not seem very special until you take a closer look at what’s really in front of you and notice the fixed lugs, the tritium dial, and the military markings at the back, small features that don’t appear in equivalent civilian models and make this an exceptionally rare piece. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In fact, a good Seamaster 300 Mil-Spec is a much rarer find than a good Rolex MilSub, and based on availability alone, you would think collectors would be ready to pay just as much for the Royal Navy's initial choice as they are for the more famous MilSub. Whether or not they should is a matter of opinion, of course, and the mythical status of the MilSub is indisputable at this point, but this particular Seamaster 300 might in fact have the cheek of beating its long-time competitor several times over this weekend, when it goes up against quite a few (non-military) Submariners. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Add the original owner’s personal dive log and you’ve got yourself one of the most interesting diving watches of the 1960s, and certainly one of the most well-preserved Seamasters on the market. Because of this, Phillips has placed an estimate of $59,500 and $119,000 on the watch, and we'll update this story once a the hammer has fallen and a final price has been reached.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: Five will take place on May 13-14 in Geneva. The stainless steel Omega Seamaster 300 “Mil-Spec” is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080117/103/" target=\"_blank\">lot number 103</a>. You can read more about this lot and see the rest of the watches in the auction <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080117/103/" target=\"_blank\">by visiting Phillips Watches online</a>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"9f4db273-a25b-4bde-9ba8-581013046999","container_id":4489,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1494522357080-ol82ciompc8-2c1bfda2a2d1d6264e492e518650fbe4/105808C.JPG","width":2000,"height":1125,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-11T11:36:03.499-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-11T13:14:17.809-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1494522357080-ol82ciompc8-2c1bfda2a2d1d6264e492e518650fbe4/105808C.JPG?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/military-seamaster-300-served-its-country-survived","full_title":"Auctions: A Military Seamaster 300 That Served Its Country (And Survived)","tags":["omega","auctions","phillips"]},{"id":4480,"slug":"a-lange-and-sohne-puts-young-watchmakers-to-the-test","column_slug":"business_news","title":"A. Lange & Söhne Puts Young Watchmakers To The Test","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-10T13:57:31.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-09T14:18:25.740-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:51.920-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>They’re young, they’re bright, and they’re competing against each other for a scholarship (and serious bragging rights).</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":29816,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"short","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The best watchmaking schools have sent their best students to Dresden to compete in A. Lange &amp; Söhne’s annual young talent competition. Eight watchmakers have been selected by Lange from over 30 watchmaking schools across the world for the final part of a multi-phase competition. The finalists will now have six months to design and build a regulator, using an ETA base movement. The assignment was chosen by Anthony de Hass, Lange’s Director of Product Development, who is encouraging out-of-the box thinking. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>The participants are not bound to the historic predecessors but explicitly invited to freely interpret the assignment.</p>","source":"Anthony de Haas, A. Lange & Söhne Director of Product Development "},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Earlier this month, the students were invited to take part in a series of small courses in Dresden. They spent four days there and were shown around the Lange manufacture, taking part in several workshops and learning about some of the company’s polishing, engraving, and finishing techniques under the supervision of actual Lange watchmakers. They were in good hands, for sure, and returned home with a better understanding of what they’ll need to show if they want to win this year’s prize.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And the big prize for the winner? The F.A. Lange Scholarship &amp; Watchmaking Excellence Award, which comes with €10,000 for the winner to continue his or her education in watchmaking. An expert jury will convene in November to look over the final entries, and the winner will be announced in December. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more information, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit A. 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Lange & Söhne Puts Young Watchmakers To The Test","tags":["a-lange-sohne"]},{"id":4471,"slug":"hyt-h0-silver-edition-hands-on","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The HYT H0 Silver Edition","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-08T11:42:06.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-03T14:19:56.647-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:49.829-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Rebooted. Simplified. This might be the best HYT yet. <br></p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":31432,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Not for the first time, an independent watch company has decided to reinvigorate its most successful line by creating a simpler, more affordable version of the watch that launched it. Just as MB&amp;F did with the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/max-busser-lm101/" target=\"_blank\">LM101</a> and Greubel Forsey did with the <a target=\"_blank\" href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-greubel-forsey-signature-1/">Signature 1</a>, HYT has created the H0.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6363f968-f5a7-4bd2-b2d3-f25adf0fb896"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Several years after the introduction of the H1, and following several other hydro-mechanical wristwatches, each one more experimental than the next, HYT has decided to revisit the company’s initial concept and tone things down a bit. The H0 (\"H-zero\") is a much more conservative product than some of the brand’s most recent projects, like the rectangular H3 or the very bold HYT Skull. And in some ways, it looks like HYT playing it safe. But the company is actually taking a bit of a gamble with this watch, and that’s why I wanted to take a closer look here.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4de64408-0cbd-4651-bb36-6f02fd14ba89"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Like it or not, the company’s most popular watches are its most extreme ones, and it isn’t even close they say. According to HYT, they can’t make enough Skull watches. The company’s unique take on one of watchmaking’s oldest and most emblematic motifs has led to seven separate references (yes, <i>seven</i>), which is as many as all the H3 and the H4 models put together.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>HYT was under no pressure to make something that felt new, but they did, for several reasons. First, because all brands want new customers, even when things are going well, and maybe especially when things are going well. A fresh design at an entry-level price point is a sure way of attracting new interest. Second, because when you’ve decided to go to one extreme, the only way to go is the other extreme. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The biggest challenge HYT has faced since launching in 2012 is getting people to understand how their watches work, or, in other words, how their movements push fluids through a transparent capillary (never mind why you’d want a watch that displays the time using fluids in the first place). The company managed this using an open-worked dial to its advantage, in order to show the expansion and compression of the bellows that drive the fluid around the dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5ce9e90c-eb2b-4706-ba56-8fae0d58ac89"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5bf600bb-6e1f-422a-b0ef-bf8de5c26d21"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now that customers and potential customers have seen the inner workings exposed and are familiar with the concept, HYT feels it can pull the dial over some of the watch parts. The bellows are still visible, but only partially – you can see them fully on the movement side. The face of the watch is much cleaner, and the first beneficiary is the time-display. The H0 is the first watch that focuses on the watch’s functions themselves, not how it functions. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dfa0c7f3-004f-4e00-81d7-9cdbd672c6e7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In fact, there is strictly nothing new inside this watch. It’s the same movement that was used in the H1, the first watch in the series, and which we saw again in the H4. It’s a movement originally developed by Jean-Francois Mojon/Chronode for HYT, and it’s unique in that it uses a pair of bellows to pump two liquids through a small tube during a 12-hour period. The colored liquid fills the visible section of the tube until it hits six o’clock on the right side of the dial, at which point the clear liquid pushes back all the way until six o’clock on the left side. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["63cc15d0-4343-49a8-b161-18a9094a218d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The movement is hand-wound and has a 65-hour power reserve, which it displays on the dial side between two and three o’clock. The minutes can be read approximatively using the fluid display, or more precisely via the sub-dial at 12 o’clock, while the seconds are also displayed on a smaller sub-dial at nine o’clock. It's interesting to note the relatively traditional finishing on the movement itself, considering how non-traditional the watch is overall. It's a nice touch and nod to history.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It doesn’t really matter that the H0 uses a movement that already exists in HYT’s collection, because it is housed in a watch that is unlike anything the company has made before. What makes the H0 different is what it does not have. Instead of modifying the base design by adding components, HYT has decided to remove two elements that every other HYT watch has (as does the great majority of watches) and those are the bezel and the lugs.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2fcd90e0-fbb8-44d6-a9a7-61652d21999f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When the watch was unveiled, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hyt-h0-liquid-time-display-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Stephen quickly identified the crystal as its coolest feature</a>, and I agree. It’s also the most transformative feature of the watch. Not only does it change the overall look of the watch and how it is read – the crystal dome wraps around the liquid, making it possible to view the time from a side angle – it also lightens up the watch, literally, by allowing more light to hit the dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch isn’t perfect though. Those who know HYT and buy into the hydro-mechanical concept don’t seem fazed by the size of these watches. However, a 48mm case is always going to be too big for many, myself included. It’s wearable, but only just. Because it has no lugs, it’s actually smaller than many of the other watches in HYT’s collection, but it’s a shame the H0 couldn’t come in at a more generally wearable size.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["cab3db7a-5d12-4305-8eab-6e5405669436"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In fact, it ends up looking a little like a diving watch, which I know it isn’t – it is water-resistant to 30 meters and comes with a screw-down titanium crown, but it lacks a bezel, the single most important component for an underwater timekeeper – but the size of the watch, the bell-shaped crystal, and the absence of lugs are all features that remind me of the depth gauges and compasses made by Panerai in the 1950s. It's even more striking on the black and green version, though you can still get a hint of it on the silver and blue edition I have here.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["29151ea1-ae6e-4ef3-a549-b6e286623e7f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>HYT is creating three separate editions of the H0, each one priced at $39,000. The plan was to make 15 pieces of each, but Cloé Biessy, the team's Communications Manager, has since confirmed that due to the popularity of the watches during Baselworld, HYT has decided against making them a limited production. The silver, orange, and black editions all share the same basic titanium case, but the black edition will be DLC-coated. Of the three, it’s perhaps the most representative of the brand since it uses the brand’s familiar neon colour for the fluid, hands and power reserve. Personally, I prefer the silver edition. It’s the bravest of the series, and if HYT wanted to freshen things up, this is the watch that comes closest to that objective. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more information, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hytwatches.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit HYT Watches online.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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Gallery","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-05T11:24:59.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-05T08:17:17.538-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:50.775-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>For its fifth anniversary, the experimental gallery offers a new take on an unusual clock.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":42021,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"short","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The M.A.D. Gallery – a multi-location gallery created by MB&amp;F founder Max Büsser – is known for supporting <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-hippocampus-clock-a-true-horological-sculpture-on-display-at-genevas-mad-gallery/" target=\"_blank\">highly unusual projects</a>, which is precisely what you might call the Nixie Machine. The not-so-little desk clock looks like it belongs in a science-fiction movie set far in the future, but actually it revisits technology invented in the 1950s. It’s a little bonkers, really, and that’s exactly why I love it. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Nixie clock and tube collector Alberto Schileo originally came up with the idea for this creation when he discovered hundreds of untouched Z568M Nixie tubes in an old Soviet warehouse. These had been manufactured in East Germany during the 1960s but appeared to be in new-old-stock condition. Schileo contacted Frank Buchwald, a German designer obsessed by weird and fantastical lighting objects, to create a very bold base for the tubes. The first Nixie Machine would debut in 2015 and it certainly got a lot of attention.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["9139c21f-c7d1-4d7a-92ee-2e023e20fb20"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This week, the M.A.D. Gallery announced that it has teamed up with Frank Buchwald once more to create a second Nixie Machine that is even larger than the original. Working with steel and brass, Buchwald has created a 1.2 meter-long exoskeleton to hold up six tubes, and there is a collection of cables that snake out from the base up to the tubes themselves, adding a little biomorphic design to the mix.</p>\n\n<p>And there’s something else new too. While the Nixie tubes behave just like the vintage ones discovered by Schileo, this time they’re entirely new, created from scratch by Czech engineer Dalibor Farny. Vintage stocks of Nixie tubes are waning and hard to predict, so creating new tubes is a safeguard for the longevity of the device.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At the heart of the Nixie Machine II is a wi-fi enabled controller that keeps the clock connected to the internet, allowing it to display the correct time without you having to set it manually. There are lots of other settings you can control from your phone or computer, including scroll effects, day/night modes, dimming, time zones, and more. If the clock goes offline, there's still a knob on the rear for manual setting so you don't have to worry.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7e506851-974a-471e-8107-d0f513e08827"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9e482c45-a8a6-4aa3-9f91-0b1c492a7956","0de9ab75-af72-48ce-b34c-210ed9566c97"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Nixie Machine II will be a very limited series. Just like the previous clock, only 12 pieces will be made. They’ll be available at all three M.A.D Gallery locations around the world (Geneva, Taipei, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mad-gallery-dubai-visit-photo-report/" target=\"_blank\">Dubai</a>) with a price of 29,700 CHF (approximately $30,000 at time of publishing). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more information, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.madgallery.net//" target=\"_blank\">visit the M.A.D. Gallery online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"b39f499c-b3e9-42a8-9dfb-6c46eedda628","container_id":4476,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1493986286191-xq8gua0zdzn-3f44a6452426f970acea9e559da34242/Nixie-Machine-II_Frank-Buchwald_2.jpg","width":2000,"height":1125,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-05T08:17:17.597-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-05T08:17:17.597-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1493986286191-xq8gua0zdzn-3f44a6452426f970acea9e559da34242/Nixie-Machine-II_Frank-Buchwald_2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/nixie-machine-ii-mad-gallery-geneva","full_title":"Introducing: The Nixie Machine II At The M.A.D. Gallery","tags":["mb&f","mad-gallery"]},{"id":4470,"slug":"rado-hyperchrome-automatic-chronograph-match-point-introducing","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Rado HyperChrome Automatic Chronograph Match Point","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-04T15:59:59.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-03T12:35:16.661-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:49.473-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Built for the tennis court, tested on the tennis court. <br></p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":35095,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>For a website that talks about sports watches on a weekly basis, we’re pretty quiet about what it’s like to actually play sports with a watch on. It’s something our readers have noticed and discussed from time to time, and it hasn't slipped my mind. Luckily, Rado recently gave me the opportunity to do two things I haven’t done in a long time: play tennis and do so while wearing a sports watch.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2ae54ec3-68fd-4bc3-9e91-9109cdf7d653"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I used to play tennis regularly when I was a teenager. I would train three times a week for two hours, and play competitively on the weekends. One of my favorite aspects of the game was the almost ceremonial routine that precedes every match. Every week, I would place my tennis bag in the same spot next to me, take out one racket, take off the old grip, put on a new one, pluck the strings until each was parallel to the ones on either side, take a sip of water, and then, just before heading onto the court, I would take off my watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There was simply no way I was wearing a watch on the court. Too heavy, too uncomfortable. Never mind that I might damage the watch, I took it off simply because I didn’t see any reason to keep it on and didn't like the feeling of it while playing. And then one day I stopped playing tennis. I went to university, got a job, moved to abroad (twice), and never really found the time, or the tennis partner, to get back on court.</p>\n\n<p></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last week, almost 10 years since my last game of tennis, I was back on the court, wearing the wrong sports shoes, holding someone else's racket (amazed by how light they have become), but my watch was still tucked away safely. Instead, this is what I wore:</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d77a4097-caa6-4b47-abcc-e558ba134b63"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Rado calls it the Automatic Chronograph Match Point, and it’s a limited edition in the HyperChrome collection, a series of watches that share a lightweight, high-tech ceramic case. This one aims to please tennis enthusiasts by incorporating some elements of the game into the watch. </p>\n\n<p>Some of the features, such as the 00, 15, 40 markers on the seconds dub dial (which are a nod to the game’s point system) are a little on the nose. Others are more innocent. I quite like the grill mesh inside the 12-hour counter, which is taken from the tennis net and adds a little texture to the dial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b0d09742-1d9f-4378-9fb2-1a54063dc110"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s a chronograph, and of course that prompts the question: what’s the purpose of a chronograph with a tachymeter scale in a tennis watch? I wasn’t sure before stepping on court, and honestly I still can't tell you. However, it makes the watch <i>feel</i> sporty and it serves a purpose off the court, which can’t be a bad thing, right? In my mind, it's certainly better than concocting a complication that can only be used during a specific sport – I'm looking at you, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuer-muhammad-ali-special-edition/" target=\"_blank\">TAG Heuer Special Edition Tribute To Muhammad Ali</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a8f3f246-b4f0-43d4-bab5-0779d0b57748"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Where the Match Point LE scores some major points is the lightness and comfort to the watch on the wrist. I mean this in the best possible way, but I quickly forgot that I was wearing it, which meant I could focus on my game (which I really needed). At no point did the watch feel like a distraction, nor was it cumbersome, despite being 45mm in diameter. Since the case and the bracelet are made of ceramic, with stainless steel used only in very limited doses for the side of the case and for the crown and pushers, the watch ends up being really light and it doesn’t feel cold on the skin. This is a small detail, but one that is very noticeable if you’re playing sports in cooler climates. The case and bracelet have a matte finish, while the center links and the bezel are polished. The combination works really nicely overall.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["64245adb-528d-4a49-b341-eb68f21b330e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The HyperChrome Automatic Chronograph Match Point is limited to 999 pieces, and is priced at $4,800. Of course, it faces some pretty stiff competition from other chronographs at that price point, not to mention coming up against smart watches, which have conquered the wrists of many athletes, including the tennis player coaching Rado's guests. But when it comes to mechanical timepieces, this is a truly credible sports watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more information, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rado.com/collections/rado-hyperchrome/hyperchrome-automatic-chronograph-match-point-limited-edition/" target=\"_blank\">visit Rado online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"08d9d465-935c-4886-9c2b-74d6d1cde3b8","container_id":4470,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1493829191233-mjed608fm3h-50dd6d792065a58d5acec67267e41e36/IMG_9396_copy.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-03T12:35:16.716-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-03T12:35:16.716-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1493829191233-mjed608fm3h-50dd6d792065a58d5acec67267e41e36/IMG_9396_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rado-hyperchrome-automatic-chronograph-match-point-introducing","full_title":"Hands-On: The Rado HyperChrome Automatic Chronograph Match Point","tags":["rado"]},{"id":4457,"slug":"patek-philippe-565-breguet-dial-phillips","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"The Patek Philippe Ref. 565 With Breguet Dial For Sale At Phillips","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-03T16:43:46.446-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-01T05:58:19.609-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:46.486-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Because sometimes highlights are personal. <br></p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":50872,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>By now, you've probably heard about the top lots from the upcoming Phillips sale. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bao-dai-rolex-reference-6062-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">Bao Dai</a>, the stainless steel <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-reference-6062-steel-in-depth-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">6062</a>, and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2597-25231-phillips-travel-watches/" target=\"_blank\">Patek 2523/1</a>. Their rarity, their condition, and the high estimates that Phillips has been placed on these watches automatically make them the highlights of the auctioneer's next sale. Their status also makes them incredibly popular during previews, and, sure enough, when I arrived at Phillips in London to preview the May sale, these were already on a tray with a small group of collectors huddled around them in one corner of the room. I’d come back for them in a bit, I figured. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8177927b-1a70-4b6f-a3c3-8f75ed538347"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Opposite them, on the other side of the room, near the beautiful bay windows that look out onto Berkeley Square, I noticed one solitary gentleman snapping pictures of a Calatrava. Since I know only one man who would visit Phillips on a Monday during lunchtime and instantly recognized the Leica D-Lux pointing in the direction of the watch, I thought I should see what had caught my friend's eye. But before I could say hello, he turned around and instantly I knew he'd rather I wasn't there. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>No, Arthur. Don't even think about coming near this one. You’re not going to be giving it any coverage. </p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Those are the words of a man who has made up his mind. Clearly, this was <i>his</i> personal favorite, and I could see why. The Calatrava he was busy photographing, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/PATEK-PHILIPPE/CH080117/112/" target=\"_blank\">lot 112 of the sale</a>, is one of three stainless steel Patek Philippe reference 565 available and it’s absolutely stunning. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Patek Philippe Reference 565 "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8635c28f-2c10-4f9c-8683-cf6f71698ff8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Patek Philippe launched the ref. 565 and Ref. 570 simultaneously in 1938, six years after the first Calatrava, and both new models had a lot in common. Both were 35mm, making them significantly larger than the ref. 96, and both retained the timeless, honest elegance of the Calatrava. But they were significantly different in other ways. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f545f560-4a52-4a72-8eed-55113451c688"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the ref. 570 was produced predominantly in gold, its objective clearly being to build on the success of Patek’s classic dress line, the ref. 565 went in another direction and addressed the needs of a new clientele. Ref. 565 was one of the first Patek Philippe wristwatches to be made in series with a stainless steel case. It was introduced during an era when gold watches were in fashion and precious metals were certainly thought of as better investments. So these watches had to offer something else. And they did.</p>\n\n<p></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["90fdddcd-8590-4d46-9915-cf0e54e1b3a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First of all, the ref. 565 had a screw-down caseback, making it the first large water-resistant Calatrava, and the watch provided better resistance to magnetic fields than most thanks to a soft iron inner case. These traits are the reason why people like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-incredible-watches-and-cars-of-briggs-cunningham/" target=\"_blank\">Briggs Cunningham</a> picked a stainless steel ref. 565 over the more luxurious ref. 570. These watches could be enjoyed whatever the circumstances, and so their owners could be as carefree as one could be in the 1940s with a Calatrava.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Collectibility"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6eb2b19a-58eb-40ce-8fa1-39ace70efeac"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One reason I find these watches fascinating is the variety of styles in which they come. Very rarely have I seen the same ref. 565 twice, and my reaction to them is almost always different. In fact, I don’t like all 565s equally, but that’s kind of the point with this watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>\"In terms of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-roni-madhvani/" target=\"_blank\">my particular 565</a>, the rare combination of the dial elements goes a long way for its lure. In terms of comparing it to other Calatravas, I feel the case design of the 565 is as relevant and as attractive today as it was in the early 40s: even the case size in my mind stands the test of time.\"</p>","title":"Ref. 565 Owner Roni Madhvani On What Makes This Reference So Special","images":["4f035b3e-e55a-4712-96dd-84363711d594"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Patek Philippe didn’t set itself too many rules when it came to making the ref. 565. Many came in steel, but some were made in gold. Some featured Arabic numerals, others occasionally had Roman numerals, and traditional Calatrava indexes even got the nod sometimes too.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The majority had a seconds hands at six o’clock, but again, there are exceptions – Patek also made examples with central seconds. During its 14-year production run, the original reference 565 would receive only one movement update, at the very end, when Patek decommissioned caliber 12’’’120 and replaced it with caliber 12’’’400. Same thing with the other version. Introduced in 1939, the watch would feature only two movements, caliber 12 SC and, from 1949 onwards, caliber 27 SC (the SC stands for <i>seconde centrale,</i> or central second). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Breguet Dial Reference 565"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7568bda1-d1a8-4e5e-9714-0106c72059ad"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Lot 112 is one of the Breguet dial variety, which are undeniably the most popular. This one has a beautiful creme dial and luminous baton hands, features in which Patek obviously still places a lot of faith, given their somewhat unexpected comeback <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5320g-perpetual-calendar-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">at the upper end of Patek's current line-up</a>. There's also a sub-dial at six o'clock for the seconds and a chapter ring around the edge of the dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's one of the more unusual ref. 565, but it isn't unique. A few others like it have been sold at auction. Christie's sold a couple, the first <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/patek-philippe-a-very-fine-and-rare-5257781-details.aspx/" target=\"_blank\">in 2009</a> and<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://staging.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/patek-philippe-a-fine-and-extremely-rare-6028542-details.aspx?lid=1\%22 target=\"_blank\"> the second just this past year</a>, for $46,030 and $69,527 respectively. Others have traded privately too.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What makes this particular ref. 565 jump out is the condition of its case, which is one of the best any similar ref. 565 that I know exists. That said, the condition of the dial shows that at some point the watch was sent back for a regular service and a clean – the comma and the accent in Patek's signature are no longer visible – but this was a pretty regular occurrence for watches from that period. It's something to be aware of, but not something to worry about too much. The lugs are still very full though and the case looks to be untouched.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["af579941-5a33-4e2a-9827-2c5914bc2a88"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a few other ref. 565s coming up at auction this May. Christie’s is offering <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/patek-philippe-a-very-fine-and-rare-6067363-details.aspx?from=searchresults&amp;intObjectID=6067363&amp;sid=2e69f2d0-3913-428e-b4d4-234d2bd32177\%22 target=\"_blank\">a gold ref. 565</a> with central seconds and Arabic numerals at three, six, nine, and 12. The estimate for that watch is $20,173 to $30,259. </p>\n\n<p>And, of course, Phillips is offering three models, all of them very different. Besides the one we've just discussed, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/PATEK-PHILIPPE/CH080117/112?fromSearch=565&amp;searchPage=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">lot 112</a>, there is also <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/PATEK-PHILIPPE/CH080117/114?fromSearch=565&amp;searchPage=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">a pink gold ref. 565</a> with gold Breguet numerals and a center seconds mechanism, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/PATEK-PHILIPPE/CH080117/73?fromSearch=565&amp;searchPage=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">a stainless steel model ref. 565</a> retailed by Serpico y Laino. That one has an extraordinary two-tone dial, and it’s expected to perform the best out of the three. It most probably will. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The stainless steel models both carry higher estimates than the gold ref. 565, which Phillips is currently projecting will sell between $29,700 and $49,500. Phillips has placed an estimate between $29,700 and $59,500 for the Breguet dial ref. 565, while the model retailed by Serpico y Laino is estimated between $49,500 and $99,100. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6fe63e68-332d-4bb6-b63d-5037fe9bb0c7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This little ref. 565 may not be the most representative of the Calatrava overall, but it proves, once more, that there is nothing more beautiful than a really great vintage Patek. It also presents a rare opportunity to acquire a wristwatch that has a hint of the new ref. 5320G without jumping full-on into a modern perpetual calendar. It's simple, it's never going to go out of style, and this gem from the 40s can handle a modern lifestyle just as well. </p>\n\n<p>I’m not saying it’s going set the world alight. I expect <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bao-dai-rolex-reference-6062-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">another watch</a> – selling just 19 watches prior to this one – will do that instead. And, in fact, I suspect another ref. 565 will do even better than this one on the night. But when Aurel Bacs swings his gavel one last time, and talk of the Bao Dai once again fills the room, one person will be feeling quietly satisfied about their new watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: Five will take place on May 13-14, 2017 in Geneva. The stainless steel Patek Philippe ref. 565 with Breguet numeral dial and luminous hands is lot number 112. You can read more about this lot and see the rest of the watches in the auction, on the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/auctions/auction/CH080117/" target=\"_blank\">Phillips Watches website</a>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"47b5b277-768e-46c6-8cf7-0038623cef8d","container_id":4457,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1493632210292-hsjjvdh7hru-aa80784261d45eab87dc758ea3e11cbf/_hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-01T05:58:20.622-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-01T05:58:20.622-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1493632210292-hsjjvdh7hru-aa80784261d45eab87dc758ea3e11cbf/_hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-565-breguet-dial-phillips","full_title":"Auctions: The Patek Philippe Ref. 565 With Breguet Dial For Sale At Phillips","tags":["patek-philippe","phillips","vintage-patek"]},{"id":4430,"slug":"the-iwc-portofino-hand-wound-moon-phase-hands-on","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-01T08:55:45.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-04-19T14:35:56.556-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:40.807-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>This is the coolest IWC watch that you've never heard of.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":80215,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"4cb09385-a523-41a7-b04b-ad61e16dfc0b","display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>There’s a very good chance you’ve never heard about this watch, nor seen any pictures of it, despite the fact that it's not some brand new release dropping today. And why might that be? First off, it’s not even on IWC’s website. So you can imagine my surprise when, flipping through IWC’s 2016/2017 catalogue, I landed on this watch. Immediately I knew I had to get my hands on one to take a closer look.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reason IWC hasn’t talked about it until now – and I suspect that will change very soon – is because the company likes to focus on one collection at a time. When it comes to new product launches, that’s been the strategy at IWC for a number of years. So when it re-launched the Da Vinci line at the SIHH in January, that’s what was the press was shown, almost exclusively. But, very quietly, IWC also launched a new Portofino, the ref. 5164, and it's one good looking watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e5b7e356-683c-4c3c-a437-9f586c7e67c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Not bad, right? In my opinion, it’s probably the best thing IWC has released so far this year. The new Da Vinci line was always going to receive mixed reviews, and it did, while the very many complications presented in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-ingenieur-collection-2017-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">the new Ingenieurs</a> tried to please everyone but didn't exactly knock it out of the park. This new 45mm Portofino on the other hand? It truly has a lot going for it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First of all, it has a moonphase complication. It’s the complication the Portofino was born with, more than 30 years ago, and its one the current line-up has been desperately missing – it has been available on the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.iwc.com/en/collection/portofino/IW4590//" target=\"_blank\">Automatic Moon Phase 37</a>, but that also only comes with diamonds on the bezel and/or dial, so it's a different story. It’s reappearance in a large case Portofino is therefore a bit of an event. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ebd251cf-beef-482c-b662-2041d8822b46"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The original Portofino, reference 5251, was a very large watch due to its movement. It was powered by a pocket watch movement, which IWC turned 90 degrees and equipped with a moonphase display. You could call it a wristwatch, and officially it was, but only because the movement was placed inside a case with lugs and a leather strap, which meant it could be worn on the wrist. In character (and size) it was very much a 19th-century pocket watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f7a38a65-633a-4e85-bb1d-a47e2d29ab5a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2701d8c9-483f-43b5-8438-bc5d422a8b72"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase on the other hand, is very much meant to be a wristwatch. The movement inside is the same base movement found inside the new Portofino Hand-Wound line-up, which includes the ref. 5101. Just like that more basic model, this watch features a small date at three o’clock, small hacking seconds at six o’clock, and a power reserve indicator at nine o’clock (for the eight-day, hand-wound power reserve). But in addition to all of that, you get a beautiful moon phase display at 12 o’clock, and it totally changes the watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a70c70aa-71e7-4c8a-8b4c-7d30e5c52f6c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Because of the moonphase module, the case gains 1.5mm in height, but that’s where the changes end. It’s a big watch, for sure, but that’s kind of the point. I'm sure the new Hand-Wound Moon Phase isn’t supposed to provide the same experience as the original Portofino, and it works as its own, slightly more compact, wristwatch, but I also happen to like that the two references, which are separated by three decades, are linked by how they wear. Even if you're not usually into larger watches, there's something charming about these for sure.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["88e5172b-0b65-4d51-bb4a-e3787c299f5e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase will be available in stainless steel for $13,000, and there will also be a rose gold model with a grey slate grey dial. Both watches come on a dark brown alligator strap with a pin buckle, provided by Santoni.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more information, visit your local IWC boutique and pick up a paper catalog.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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Neil Armstrong left his NASA-issued Omega Speedmaster on board that day, but Buzz's was still strapped to the outside of his suit. Many consider it to be the most important wristwatch ever made. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ten-watches-were-still-looking-for/" target=\"_blank\">Too bad no one knows where it is</a>.</p>\n\n<p></p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So what does Buzz wear in its place today? A lot of people want to know. Thanks to Omega, which today celebrated the 60th anniversary of the Speedmaster in London, we have the answer. And it's not one watch actually, but rather three that adorn his wrists. All at once. On his right arm, he wore the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch (bear in mind his role as a brand ambassador), and, on his left, an unusual contraption that combines an 18k yellow gold De Ville Chronoscope with an X-33 and its titanium bracelet, modified to connect both watch heads. Calling this \"unique\" would be an understatement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b2b078ce-d12f-4952-bf0c-882e5a1edad4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watches weren't the only things on his wrists though. Buzz wears quite a few bracelets, including one that spells out his name, and he's also a bit of a ring man. Aldrin had a ring on nearly every finger, two of them being so-called \"Moon Rings,\" his mission rings from the Apollo days, and his West Point class ring. Aldrin spoke to a small group of journalists about a few iconic photographs taken during Apollo 11, his expeditions to the North and South Poles, and his desire to see people go to Mars. And he's not ruling himself out of that mission either!</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"full-width","quote":"<p>We were in communication with Earth all the time. We felt at home because we could talk to each other. But we wore the watches and we kept them set to the time of the shifts of the people back in mission control. They were on an eight-hour shift. So, there we were on the Moon...but we knew what time it was in Houston, Texas, all the time.</p>","source":"Buzz Aldrin"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["50eef589-4364-4b61-b558-85789bfc2f32"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Bonus: James H. Ragan Wearing His Personal Speedmaster Ref. 145.022"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["491a1f1d-5be4-4cf7-a369-23a5c7ff18e6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>James H. Ragan is the only non-Smithsonian employee authorized to carry historic watches out of the Museum – and that’s because he’s the reason the watches are there in the first place. Ragan was the man at NASA responsible for identifying the horological needs of the agency’s astronauts, and he performed the tests that would eventually lead to NASA picking the Speedmaster over other models for the Gemini and Apollo flight crews. And his influence ended up impacting the Speedmaster itself too – it’s because of him, for example, that Omega added crown guards. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0661bd4a-307b-48c2-8497-f2833d91e11c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more information, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/" target=\"_blank\">visit Omega online</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":22,"slug":"watch_spotting","name":"Watch Spotting","description":"Photo-first, event-driven articles that feature photography from news and wire agencies. 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