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Rolex
Over the past few years, stone dials have seemingly popped up everywhere. More modern brands are making them. At the same time, vintage examples have become more collectible and jumped in price considerably.</p>\n\n<p>But stone dials are still a relatively undiscovered corner of watch collecting. They're not well understood on the vintage or modern side.</p>\n\n<p>So I wanted to cover them on Hodinkee. Typically, we'd do this by talking to a few experts and synthesizing those conversations into an in-depth article. But I decided to try something different this time around, hitting record on three conversations to learn about modern stone dial production, vintage collecting, and everything in between.</p>\n\n<p>Our first conversation is with Pierre Biver, who started J.C. Biver with his father Jean-Claude Biver last year. Each of their releases has included a stone dial option. Then, I talk with two dealers. First is Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, a vintage dealer and trained gemologist. Second is Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches, who has helped grow the scholarship around stone dials. We dive into the recent discussion around Rolex \"obsidian\" dials; as we'll discuss, this name isn't quite accurate and it shows how much there still is to learn about vintage watches, and stone dials in particular. </p>\n\n<p>I hope all three conversations give you a better understanding of stone dials. Note that I've tried to include links to an example of all stone dials mentioned in the audio, so check the show notes below if you're not sure what a particular stone looks like. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"tNypoXbfXkc","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>1:23</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-biver-automatique/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hands-On: The Biver Automatique</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>2:14</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-biver-carillon-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hands-On: The Biver Carillon Tourbillon</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>19:30</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-berneron-mirage-34mm-realizes-its-creators-uncompromising-vision/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hands-On: The Berneron Mirage Realizes Its Creator's Uncompromising Vision</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>24:00</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-baltic-prismic-stone-limited-editions/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hands-On: Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Limited Editions</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>31:54</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Amsterdam Vintage Watches</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>33:35</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-piaget-defined-the-1970s-and-how-it-can-do-the-same-today/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">In-Depth: How Piaget Defined The 1970s, And How It Can Do The Same Today</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>38:15</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-18238-malachite//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Malachite dial</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>39:16</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://mentawatches.com/product/rolex-18238-coral-day-date//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Coral dial</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>41:53</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://watchprint.com/en/favorites/586-the-dial-the-face-of-the-wristwatch-in-the-20th-century-9789995908416.html/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dr. Helmut Crott's <i>The Dial</i></a></p>\n\n<p><strong>42:45</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-onyx//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Example of a Rolex Day-Date with black Onyx dial</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>43:15</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://mentawatches.com/product/piaget-lapis-9154-protocole//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Example of a Piaget Protocole with Lapis Lazuli dial</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>43:28</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-18038-tiger-eye//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Tiger's Eye dial</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>45:20</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-18239-jasper-dial//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Green Jasper dial</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>46:30</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://thekeystone.com/products/rolex-yellow-gold-day-date-watch-ref-18038-with-pyramid-onyx-dial/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Pyramid Onyx dial</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>46:55</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-datejust-1601-9-3//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jasper's white gold Datejust with Red Jasper dial</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>52:05</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-18239-bloodstone//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rolex Day-Date with 'Bloodstone' dial</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>54:10</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://hairspring.com//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hairspring Watches</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>56:00</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://hairspring.com/finds/obsidian-dial-1600-rolex-datejust//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hairspring's post about the \"Obsidian\" dial Rolex Datejust</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>58:45</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/The-Phillips-Glamous-Day-Date-Sale-Results/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Recapping The Glamorous Day-Date Sale At Phillips (That Time The Average Day-Date Sold For $110,580)</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>1:00:00</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080220/165/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\"Obsidian\" Rolex at Phillips in 2020</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>1:02:30</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://loupethis.com/auctions/rolex-datejust-1601-yellow-gold-oman-asprey-set/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rolex Day-Date Khanjar with \"Obsidian\" dial</a> that Loupe This described as \"although it looks like an onyx stone dial, after closer inspection it appears the dial is a painted/ lacquer dial.\"</p>\n\n<p><strong>1:11:37</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-brings-back-the-starwheel-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel (Live Pics) (including pics of a tropical Starwheel)</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>1:11:58</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://hairspring.com/finds/lemon-dial-116520-rolex-daytona//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rolex Daytona ref. 116500 \"Lemon\" dial</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"How To Buy A Stone Dial Watch","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"9d09bb47-d0fc-45b5-b320-e08357cf23de","container_id":13882,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/fae4fe7c-ef3c-4c69-83a6-57aaa906cc57/H-Radio-Article-Hero-030.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"collecting watch stone dials","created_at":"2024-10-31T10:40:42.184-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-31T10:40:42.184-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/fae4fe7c-ef3c-4c69-83a6-57aaa906cc57/H-Radio-Article-Hero-030.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/everything-you-need-to-know-about-stone-dials","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Everything You Need To Know About Stone Dials","tags":["hodinkee-radio","stone-dials"]},{"id":13874,"slug":"collecting-porsche-design-with-andres-nicholls","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Collecting Porsche Design With Andres Nicholls","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-30T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-29T18:23:04.760-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-31T10:03:23.731-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>We speak with a designer and architect about the enduring appeal of Porsche Design.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":31537,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"podcast_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":"Porsche Design","advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Today, we're presenting a special episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Hodinkee Radio</i></a> feed<i>, </i>so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Apple Podcasts</i></a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\"><i>,</i></a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Stitcher</i></a><i>, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Spotify</i></a><i>, or </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\"><i>TuneIn</i></a><i>).</i></p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/744a5c79-e0fe-4f5c-ac7e-61d882cc8d46?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22
For this special episode, we're joined by Andres Nicholls. Andres is a dedicated collector of all things Porsche and Porsche Design. Andres' passion for the brand runs deep – he bought his first Porsche Design Chronograph 1 way back in 2000. As a trained designer and architect, he also brings a different perspective to the way in which Porsche Design's watches blend design and complications. Along the way, James and Andres also talk about some of their favorite Porsche cars, and how the brand continues to set itself apart. Andres is a senior partner and creative director for the creative agency Prophet. </p>\n\n<p><i>Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"pg_GtWyqNKw","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Related coverage of Porsche Design:</i></p>\n\n<p>Also watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/special-episode-porsche-design-with-drew-peterson/" target=\"\">our first episode featuring Porsche Design</a> with Drew Peterson.</p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/pd-turns-40-a-brief-history-of-porsche-design/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche Design</a></p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/admin/articles/13785/Tom Cruise Pilots Fighter Jets While Wearing A Familiar Porsche Design Chronograph In 'Top Gun: Maverick'/" target=\"_blank\">Watching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The Year</a></p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-ferdi-porsche/" target=\"_blank\">Talking Watches With Ferdi Porsche</a></p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/take-to-the-ice-with-the-new-porsche-design-chronograph-1-gp-2023-edition/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition</a></p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://le.hodinkee.com/porsche-design-chronograph-1-limited-edition-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"6040fd6b-59a2-48d7-ae12-cad28e980c4b","container_id":13874,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1d1effae-8db0-43bb-a55c-a8d9c4968d23/H-Radio-Article-Hero-00Xcopy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Porsche Design chronograph 1","created_at":"2024-10-29T18:23:04.830-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-29T18:23:04.830-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1d1effae-8db0-43bb-a55c-a8d9c4968d23/H-Radio-Article-Hero-00Xcopy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/collecting-porsche-design-with-andres-nicholls","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Collecting Porsche Design With Andres Nicholls","tags":["porsche-design","hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13856,"slug":"five-of-my-favorite-new-watches-from-small-brands-right-now","column_slug":"buying_selling_collecting","title":"Five Of My Favorite New Watches From Small Brands Right Now","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-24T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-21T15:31:12.722-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-25T07:46:53.791-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Call 'em microbrands or whatever you'd like, but from world timers to divers, they can make some impressive watches. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":174198,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In 2017, I took a train from downtown Chicago to a neighborhood about 30 minutes north to buy my first watch from a \"microbrand,\" a new Olmsted from Oak & Oscar. It was cold and grey, as it often is in Chicago in December, and I remember sitting in Oak & Oscar's shoebox HQ, sipping a whiskey and chatting with the team of two while they sized the bracelet on my new watch. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That was a long time ago, but it still captures the attraction of small or micrbrand watches. Since then, the space has only grown and it's nearly impossible to keep up with. Hardly a day goes by that I don't come by a nicely designed and spec'd watch from one of these brands. </p>\n\n<p>In the past couple of decades, these microbrands have matured by taking advantage of global supply chains (often manufacturing in China, but not always), skipping retail channels and selling online directly to consumers, and using affordable and accessible movements from Sellita or Miyota, often in a small-run or pre-order model. These factors allow everyone, from diehard enthusiasts to grifters looking to make a quick buck, to make and sell a watch. At their best, these brands come up with interesting and innovative designs; increasingly, this also includes some technical innovation. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dcf48aed-5835-47f9-ac9c-ea0faa10ba5c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In 2018, James <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-rise-of-the-microbrands/" target=\"_blank\">wrote about the rise of microbrands</a>, featuring first-generation pioneers including Raven, Halios, and Autodromo.</p>\n\n<p>\"There's a fetish for novelty and cheapness over quality and integrity,\" Autodromo's Bradley Price said then. \"The collateral damage is that all small brands get lumped together in the minds of some watch buyers – in short, it's gotten way more complicated.\" </p>\n\n<p>This is still the case today, if not more so, as new brands can pop up almost as quickly as others disappear. </p>\n\n<p>A few years after James, Logan Baker <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watchmaking-middle-class-new-2022/" target=\"_blank\">covered what he termed</a> the new \"middle class\" of watchmaking that was continuing to take advantage of those same factors. From the United States (Brew, Monta) to the U.K. (Farer, AnOrdain) to Southeast Asia (Ming, Zelos) and everywhere in between, these brands make often exciting watches. And many of them are succeeding. At least a couple <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.watchpro.com/stampede-for-pizza-watch-helps-studiounderd0g-outsell-rolex-for-one-day-only//" target=\"_blank\">have said</a> that annual sales surpass $10 million. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Often, these small brands make watches that larger, heritage brands can't (or wouldn't) make. They're watches for enthusiasts, by enthusiasts, often with a small team powering the entire operation. I continue to find the space exciting. I spent some time walking around <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://windupwatchfair.com/new-york//" target=\"_blank\">the Windup Watch Fair in New York</a> last week and came away impressed by more than a few brands, so here are five of my favorites (and one bonus pick). </p>\n\n<p>I'll do a full hands-on with at least a couple of these watches – if there's one in particular you'd like to see more of, let me know in the comments. Or, let me know which small or microbrands I missed (there are plenty).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lorier Olympia Chronograph"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5c2f218f-eea3-43ab-a2be-0510b4537ee5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Since 2017, Lorier has been making affordable watches inspired by mid-20th-century design. The New York City brand's latest is the Olympia, its take on the traditional racing chronographs of the 1960s. The Olympia feels familiar, but with a few pops of soft red and blue that bring it into 2024. It's an homage to a specific era but not any particular watch. The worst thing I can say about watches like this is that they leave me wanting the real thing, and that's not the case with the Lorier Olympia. The style stands on its own as completely satisfying. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["40d496e1-a467-4593-80d0-409e8efe0699"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Olympia's 316L stainless steel case measures 39 x 13.8mm (46mm lug-to-lug), with 2mm of that thickness thanks to the domed Hesalite crystal. It's powered by an automatic Seiko NE88 movement, and a screw-down crown means 50 meters of water resistance. After speaking with Lorier for just a few minutes at Windup, they say it's a big improvement over the Seagull movements used in previous chronographs. </p>\n\n<p>For 900 bucks, the Olympia chronograph has an impressive fit and finish. It's got solid end links, bracelet links secured by screws, and a bracelet that articulates nicely around the wrist. The chrono pusher action is even satisfying and tactile – perhaps expected for a column wheel vertical clutch, but a pleasant surprise at the price. </p>\n\n<p>With sparse posting on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/lorierwatches//" target=\"_blank\">their social media channels</a>, Lorier continues to let its product do all the talking, and that's what I like about the brand most. </p>\n\n<p><i>Check out the </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.lorierwatches.com/products/olympia/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Olympia chronograph on Lorier's website for more</i></a><i>. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Marin Instruments Skin-Diver OS 'Polar'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c6b49981-5ed4-48e1-8df8-9cdb19bc9dec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>New Mexico Designer Justin Walters founded Marin Instruments in 2021. Like many microbrands, Marin is clearly inspired by mid-century watches, but it feels more modern than most. While its skin diver has cues from those '60s watches—meant to be worn when diving without a wetsuit—Marin's version is clean and contemporary, as much Apple or Nomos as it is Elgin or Waltham.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d0cd83ce-a149-46d3-9ce7-6462cfd8edbd","cb9624e7-60f1-4da0-8a9c-129a53433a6a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Skin-Diver OS \"Polar\" has a stark white dial that contrasts with its black PVD-coated bezel and an orange-tipped seconds hand, surely a subtle reference to a more famous \"polar\" watch. The brushed steel case measures 39 x 11.5mm (48mm lug-to-lug), and while it wears a little flat on the wrist, that's probably expected from the traditional skin-diver form. Inside is a standard automatic Sellita SW200-1, and the Polar Skin Diver is delivered on a black rubber strap with an additional NATO-style strap (though I wouldn't mind it on one of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.marininstruments.com/shop/p/marin-instruments-bor-bracelet/" target=\"_blank\">Marin's beads-of-rice bracelets</a>). A strong, well-built watch for $1,095. In addition to buying directly on Marin's site, the brand is also carried by online retailer <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://huckberry.com/store/marin-instruments/" target=\"_blank\">Huckberry</a>. </p>\n\n<p><i>For more on Marin Instruments, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.marininstruments.com/shop/" target=\"_blank\"><i>check out its website</i></a><i>. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bonus Pick: Alterum Worldtimer"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["99b262cf-ee11-422b-bb4f-68d84aa62507"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Bonus pick! I was immediately taken by the design of Marin Instruments when Hodinkee <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/meet-marin-instruments-a-young-brand-thats-modernizing-the-classic-60s-skin-diver#comments\" target=\"_blank\">first covered the brand in 2022</a>, so was excited to learn that founder Justin Walters just launched another brand, Alterum Watch Company. Alterum has just released its first watch, the Worldtimer. It's a minimalist, brutal take on the globe-trotting complication.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aca31aa2-c4e2-44e6-a651-bd397596a341"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Alterum Worldtimer features a blasted and brushed stainless steel case (and bracelet) measuring 38.5 x 10.5mm. The world-time function is powered by an automatic Sellita SW330-2 GMT movement, and Walters partnered with Swiss manufacturer Roventa-Henex to produce the Worldtimer. The first production run will be limited to 100 units at a price of CHF 2,850. The hour and minute \"hands\" are fixed on rotating disks, with the rotating world time disks on the outer ring operable through an additional crown at two o'clock. </p>\n\n<p><i>For more on the Alterum Worldtimer, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alterumwatchco.com//" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Alterum Watch Co</i></a><i>. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Atelier Wen Perception (Titanium Or Tantalum)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["319e2ee8-b19a-4d91-968a-dcc1f9b07ca9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I first experienced an Atelier Wen Perception sometime in 2022, around the same time the proudly \"Made in China\" brand was also <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/atelier-wen-is-proudly-made-in-china/" target=\"_blank\">introduced on Hodinkee</a>. While the integrated-bracelet watch was good, at the time it still needed some work. A few too many arm hairs suffered in that watch review, in other words. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a93040ca-8f75-4df7-b28d-50c34a6a127b","cee8c78a-b13b-4642-8c55-ea845a216df0"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The brand has come a long way since then. This year, they introduced a standard production version of the Perception in titanium. The story of the Perception begins with its guilloché dial, and while there was a recent social media dust-up about how long it does or doesn't take for craftspeople to make these dials, you can't deny they're beautiful – especially in purple.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In addition to the dial work, Atelier Wen has expanded the Perception line into titanium and tantalum. It's not easy to make a tantalum bracelet, so that's the impressive development here – you can feel the weight of this accomplishment when you take the heavy metal in your hand. </p>\n\n<p>\"Tantalum gets sticky and destroys your tools quite quickly,\" Atelier Wen co-founder Robin Tallendier explained to me. \"If you want to polish or brush it, that'll destroy the tools. And the hardest part is drilling holes, which you obviously have to do to make bracelets.\" </p>\n\n<p>The titanium Perception is nothing to sneeze at either, with finishing that matches more expensive titanium sports watches. Atelier Wen just closed a pre-order run of the titanium Perception ($3,588), but it says a small run of tantalum models is coming soon, as are more collaborations. </p>\n\n<p>If you're interested, you can also register interest in the Perception in case of any cancellations for the last round of orders. <i>For more on Atelier Wen, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://us.atelierwen.com//" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit its website</i></a><i>. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Echo/Neutra Rivanera"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fbb24d5c-7d1a-4239-ad83-099f381cbf84"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Rivanera from the Italian brand Echo/Neutra came as a surprise. Scroll through its previous releases, and you'll see most of its watches are homage-y sports watches, often resembling models from Bell & Ross. But earlier this month, the Rivanera dropped, a modern take on the rectangular watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["36354825-5f5a-4d79-95dd-0e49c5a60f9b","531731c0-84ae-40e1-98fa-166227f95cfe"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The sandblasted grade 5 titanium case measures 40 x 27mm, and just 5.5mm thick, thanks to the manual-wind ETA/Peseux 7001 inside. It comes with either a black or a grey dial, both of which add to the modern, monochromatic vibe of the Rivanera. While the bulk of the case is sandblasted and this matches the matte dial, there are also highly polished facets on the case flanks. The polished, applied hour markers also catch and reflect the light. </p>\n\n<p>The Rivanera is a surprising contrast of minimalism and Art Deco. It's totally unexpected, and from a brand I hadn't paid much attention to. I wouln't say the watch is too large, but it wears as a flat rectangle, and I might've liked something that hugs the wrist (at least, my wrist) a bit more. But this is an exciting release from Echo/Neutra – it's on trend, but an innovative take that doesn't feel like it's <i>chasing</i> a trend. </p>\n\n<p>Pre-orders for the Rivanera opened on Echo/Neutra's site on October 10. Both dials cost $1,490. <i>For more, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://echoneutra.com/rivanera//" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Echo/Neutra</i></a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Paulin Modul D"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["07d440be-df34-4122-adcb-2321c4645f54"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, Paulin is the affordable sister brand of AnOrdain. As AnOrdain founder Lewis Heath <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-conversation-with-anordain-founder-lewis-heath/" target=\"_blank\">explained to me last year</a>, it recently absorbed its fellow Scottish brand, founded by Heath's wife and her two sisters. Paulin recently announced the latest addition to its Modul collection, the Modul D and E. I got hands on with the D, which features a black lacquer dial and hand-painted lume on the hands and numerals.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3fc4e372-3dad-4ddc-b826-be0ea7278c8a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Paulin offers the Modul with either a quartz movement ($507) or manual-wind (ETA 7001) movement ($1,114). The line is named after the case's modular construction, designed to accommodate a range of movement calibers. The cushion-shaped case measures 35mm and 8.2mm thick. There's also a larger automatic Modul if that's your thing. </p>\n\n<p>Paulin is fun, playful, and colorful – a brand that's distinct from AnOrdain but feels at home in the same family. If you're stuck waiting for your build slot to come up with AnOrdain (2028 for me!), picking up a Paulin Modul isn't a bad way to bide your time. </p>\n\n<p><i>For more, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.paulinwatches.com/collections/lume-modul/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Paulin Watches</i></a><i>. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This list is completely subjective – I've covered a number of other small brands recently from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-oak-and-oscar-atwood-chronograph-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">Oak & Oscar</a> to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-lorca-model-no-2-chronograph-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">Lorca</a> to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/anoma-watches-unveils-the-shape-shiftingly-retro-a1/" target=\"_blank\">Anoma</a>, and I'm sure there are more to come. Again, let me know if I missed your favorite, or which of these six watches you'd like to see more of. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Five Of The Best Microbrand Watches in 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":172,"slug":"buying_selling_collecting","name":"Buying, Selling, & Collecting","description":"Original research, analysis, and perspectives to help you with buying, selling, and collecting the most important watches of today.","sort_order":1,"created_at":"2021-02-23T12:04:29.427-05:00","updated_at":"2022-09-19T22:20:46.269-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"d7f5861e-f921-404b-86ee-33fe088d920d","container_id":13856,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/b37291b0-7673-46e0-87e7-75ff9a3cf71b/DSC_8588-2.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"best microbrand watches of 2024","created_at":"2024-10-21T15:31:12.812-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-21T15:34:18.399-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/b37291b0-7673-46e0-87e7-75ff9a3cf71b/DSC_8588-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/five-of-my-favorite-new-watches-from-small-brands-right-now","full_title":"Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Five Of My Favorite New Watches From Small Brands Right Now","tags":["lorier","new-watches-2024","atelier-wen","marin-instruments","echo/neutra"]},{"id":13812,"slug":"the-formex-stratos-utc-a-practical-new-take-on-the-gmt-live-pics","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Formex Stratos UTC – A Practical New Take On The GMT (Live Pics)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-21T11:15:02.261-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-14T09:56:16.743-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-21T11:15:05.497-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A cool complication, but a design that could use some refinement. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":23926,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Formex has built a strong reputation for technical innovation. Its sister company, Dexel, is a manufacturer and supplier for many Swiss brands. Pesky NDAs often obscure who's really making what, but Dexel's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.dexel.ch/en/" target=\"_blank\">website</a> features bracelets for Girard-Perregaux and Montblanc, cases for Hublot, and more. Much of this tech finds its way into Formex, something of an in-house brand for Dexel. While mostly known for bracelet, clasp, and case engineering, Formex recently decided to try its hand at the GMT complication. The result is the Formex Stratos UTC, a pilot's watch that's a functional take on a flyer GMT. While the design is a bit clunky, the Stratos UTC offers a fresh take on the GMT at a reasonable price. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b3a1331e-ab8c-409d-84b1-4e95ae818d84"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Stratos UTC has \"flyer\" GMT functionality, but instead of operating through the crown, there are pushers at two and four o'clock to manage the local hour hand. Pushing either jumps the local hour forward or backward one hour, all without having to pull out a crown (or even stop the balance wheel from running).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Formex accomplishes this with a custom Dubois Dépraz module sitting on top of an ETA 2892. The date is connected to the local hour hand, though there's also an independent date corrector hidden in the left side of the midcase. The date is displayed in a subdial at 6 o'clock. A pimple-like day-night indicator sits at nine o'clock on the dial. There is a 24-hour scale in the rehaut, and another on the bi-directional rotating bezel. This means you can track three time zones at once. It also means the overall design is quite busy. Formex regulates the movement to +/- 7 seconds per day, with the movement visible through a sapphire caseback. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7355e42b-e849-471b-8ab0-8c0424a82dbd","83d0ca32-989b-4d70-9cb8-8438a031d476"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Formex fits all this into a squat stainless steel 41mm case that measures 47mm lug-to-lug and a comfy 11.8mm thick, water resistant to 100 meters. The Stratos UTC is delivered on a strap or bracelet (20mm lug width). I recommend the bracelet, which also has tool-less micro-adjust and quick-release. Formex excels at case and bracelet manufacturing and finishing, and the Stratos UTC is no different. The bracelet is sturdy but thin, articulating nicely around the wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["873ade3b-7793-4b51-bf41-695493750a0a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Meanwhile, the dial has a sunray finish, with contrasting graining on the subdial and outer ring. There are three dial color options: blue, grey, and green. All have bright orange accents. On a bracelet, the Formex Stratos UTC costs $3,990 and is available for pre-order. On a strap, it's $3,850.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7b8311fe-e2a3-438f-b0e4-5d2b22067b57","1cc056ac-d26e-4a20-bcf1-a14bfd87a579"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I like Formex's practical take on the GMT, but this does look like a watch that put technical specs and complication before design. The dial is busy, accentuated by a cluttered bezel. There are too many fonts on the Stratos UTC. Despite its design, the case is quite wearable; a GMT that's just 11.8mm thick is nothing to scoff at. It's also nicely finished, with a mix of polished, brushed, and blasted surfaces. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fe9a52ba-f677-49a5-9fac-78d4d756bdf5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Operating a GMT with pushers isn't exactly new, see e.g., Patek 5164 or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-chronograph-gmt-automatic-review/" target=\"_blank\">Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT</a>. But Formex building a module on top of an ETA to keep this take on the complication relatively affordable is still commendable. </p>\n\n<p>I'm hoping Formex uses the complication in another watch, or it cleans up the design of the Stratos UTC, because it's an idea with a lot of potential. Because while the design of the Stratos UTC might not be for me, Formex's technical chops, engineering, and manufacturing are something everyone can get behind. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Formex Stratos UTC has a 316L stainless steel case measuring 41 x 11.8mm (47mm lug-to-lug), with 100 meters of water resistance. The Stratos UTC features a \"flyer\" GMT using a custom Dubois Dépraz module built on top of the automatic ETA 2892 (+/- 7 seconds per day), visible through a sapphire caseback. Date display at six o'clock. Sunray finish dial available in green, blue, or grey. Bracelet has screwed links with tool-less micro-adjust and quick release. MSRP: $3,990 on bracelet ($3,850 on strap). Bi-directional, 48-click stainless steel rotating bezel.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of The Formex Stratos UTC GMT Watch","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"5d2d3423-dcd4-4284-bab3-106856a81d24","container_id":13812,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/93431385-096f-4d5d-bdac-649e025fe937/DSC_8413.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"formex stratos utc gmt","created_at":"2024-10-14T09:56:16.794-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-14T16:00:27.485-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/93431385-096f-4d5d-bdac-649e025fe937/DSC_8413.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-formex-stratos-utc-a-practical-new-take-on-the-gmt-live-pics","full_title":"Introducing: The Formex Stratos UTC – A Practical New Take On The GMT (Live Pics)","tags":["hands-on","introducing","formex","new-watches-2024"]},{"id":13799,"slug":"auctions-monaco-legend-fall-2024","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"Three Editors Pick Three Watches Each From Monaco Legend's Fall Auction","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-18T09:00:06.615-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-03T14:13:12.179-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-18T09:01:04.931-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>From watches that shouldn't exist (but do) to some hidden gems, we dig through the catalog.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":19235,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Auction season is upon us (well, does it ever really stop?), and the Hong Kong auctions have already taken place. For the first time in three seasons, I'm not going to be able to make it to Monaco this fall. But the catalog is full of the kind of lots that only the team at Monaco Legend Group would put in a modern auction. There are a lot of vintage pieces, a bunch of hidden gems, and some things I'll have to consider bidding on myself.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A bunch of things jump out as worth talking about. A <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-35/lot-21/" target=\"_blank\">Serpico-signed ref. 2526 Explorer dial in pink gold</a> will get a certain group – cough, Ben Clymer, cough – excited. A platinum Cartier Tank on a bracelet from the 1950s feels comically low at €15,000 – 30,000. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-35/lot-241/" target=\"_blank\">Oyster Perpetual \"Galaxy\"</a> with a black star dial is another killer watch that is almost hard to believe Rolex made at one point. Then there's the fact that Monaco Legend Group recently welcomed Corrado Mattarelli as Deputy Chairman of the Watch Department at MLG, bringing more vintage watches and a bit more variety in the neo-vintage and modern portions of the catalogs moving forward.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To help me go through the catalog – and to get a nice variety of tastes from our resident vintage lovers – I tasked my colleagues Tony Traina and Rich Fordon with picking three of their favorites from the upcoming sale.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Tony Traina's Picks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lot 271: Vacheron 4072 Chronograph In Steel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["24ad5ebb-dc60-4ce2-952f-42268e7346a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The auction world can be scary, so typically, I look only at models I know well or those that can be traced back with documented provenance or verifiable stories. </p>\n\n<p>The Vacheron Constantin ref. 4072 is one of my favorite vintage chronographs. It's basically Vacheron's answer to the Patek 130, but a touch bigger – and better, if I may say. Because it's slightly smaller and <i>a Vacheron</i>, it's seemingly cursed to perpetual underappreciation.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Introduced in 1938 and produced through the early '70s, it was one of Vacheron's longest-running chronograph models. The Cornes de Vache or ref. 4178 might be rarer, but I'll take a good 4072 every day. Over 30ish years, Vacheron produced 1,178 examples, mostly in yellow or pink gold.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ba44bbb4-6d63-42c1-8d8d-2286e993c7cd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Any Vacheron 4072 in good condition is already a special watch. Back in January, I included a photo of a pink-on-pink <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/all-the-rare-vintage-watches-we-saw-at-the-biggest-antique-show-in-the-us/" target=\"_blank\">example at the Miami Beach Antique Show</a>, and it's still one of the best vintage watches I've seen this year (I was told it sold soon after that for a healthy six figures).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But a stainless steel Vacheron 4072 is on another level. Monaco Legend says only about 250 steel examples were made, which helps to explain the $60,000-120,000 estimate here. The case looks sharp and the two-tone dial is in good, original condition – just a touch of aging towards the edge of the dial, not uncommon for these watches because the cases weren't waterproof.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This same watch passed <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/lot-308-245/" target=\"_blank\">at Antiquorum back in 2017</a>, but you'll notice it's got the same dial and case – always good to see.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lot 167: Breitling Duograph"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dcb8736e-7ba9-4268-b203-ec56da543b9b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Like the Vacheron 4072, the Breitling Duograph is another one of those \"if you change the name on the dial, just think what it'd be worth\" watches. Vintage split-second chronographs are incredibly rare – only a few brands not named \"Patek\" were making them. Breitling introduced the Duograph in 1944, and the family went on to include a handful of references, all powered by Venus chronograph calibers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Alpha Hands has <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://alphahands.com/vintage-watch-research/breitling-duograph//" target=\"_blank\">worked to document the Duograph</a> and found only a few dozen Breitling Duographs across references and metals (many with non-original components). This three-register ref. 766 in stainless steel is an early example, dating to 1944, right at the beginning of the Duograph's production run. The aesthetic is similar to our Vacheron 4072: a stainless steel case applied golden markers on a silver dial with an outer scale. Clearly, these are two watches of the same era.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All that, and I find it hard to believe the estimate on this Duograph is \"only\" $20-40,000. In 2020, this same example sold at Phillips <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/breitling/HK080120/1021/" target=\"_blank\">for about $33,000</a>, so I'd expect the estimate to be fair, too. It sold for about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/lot-308-146?page=8\%22 target=\"_blank\">the same price before that in 2017</a>. It's a lot of vintage chronograph for the money.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lot 19: A Racing Rolex Bubbleback"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["81a08bb8-32ec-4f57-8a2b-d42d59e75860"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After writing too much about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters/" target=\"_blank\">the Rolex Bubbleback last week</a>, you can bet the first thing I searched in this catalog was \"Bubbleback\" – the Italians are usually good for a few nice ones (and maybe a few not-so-nice ones).</p>\n\n<p>I'm a sucker for a pink gold Bubbleback, so I love <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-35/lot-114/" target=\"_blank\">this pink-on-pink ref. 3131</a>. But the most interesting Bubbleback in this auction has good looks <i>and</i> a story.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["801f5e2b-9cbc-4b59-b7d9-1b505f143a0c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Based on the caseback engraving, this Rolex ref. 3131 was given to the Thai Prince Bira in 1947 after his victory at the Grand Prix des Frontières in Belgium. I love those Rolex, Heuer, and other racing chronographs from the 60s and '70s as much as the next guy, but there's an of-its-time charm from a driver being given a little gold Bubbleback for his victory in 1947. Just a decade later, he might've been gifted a big steel chronograph.</p>\n\n<p>But in the '40s, a 32mm pink gold Bubbleback was the \"sports watch\" of choice, which makes this one of my favorite lots in Monaco.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rich Fordon's Picks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lot 7: Jules Jürgensen 1920s Tonneau 5 Minute Repeater"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["32475381-404c-47e9-acc1-5c4d27b28846"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I am starting my picks with what I assume will be the least \"popular\" watch I feature here; this Jules Jürgensen is for the real heads but is an extremely cool and extremely rare watch. My love for Jules Jürgensen, of this period specifically, started by going down the rabbit hole on Urban Jürgensen – I will spare us all the details of this connection here but if you want to know more than you ever thought you could know about everything Jürgensen, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-then-and-now/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">check out my article here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Anyway, let's stick with the context that is important for this particular watch. Jules Jürgensen was acquired by Ed. Heuer & Co. in 1919. Yes, the same Heuer as, well, Heuer. As a part of a quasi-\"group,\" the Jürgensen name was used to market ultra-high-end wrist and pocket watches, mainly to the American market. Typical of Swiss watch production in the first half of the 20th century, Heuer sourced <i>ébauches</i> from LeCoultre and Victorin Piguet – the same movement suppliers as Patek Philippe at this time. While I have not viewed the movement of this 5-minute repeating wristwatch, I have to assume that it is the work of one of these two suppliers. In this era, few other companies could even produce a caliber like this.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Speaking of the watch itself, I find it beautiful, but like I said off the bat, it's a style of watch that isn't for everyone. That said, this smaller, early, and more traditional style has been extremely in vogue lately. At 35 x 41mm, the case is not crazy small – which is a major plus. The large Breguet-esque numerals are eye-catching, and the simple yet perfectly executed Jules Jürgensen branding in script sends this watch over the top for me. It will be an interesting one to watch, if the watch had Cartier on the dial, the estimate would be double and the hammer price maybe triple what we see here. This will be a test to see if the market for these early wristwatches is not limited to only extremely recognizable brand names.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lot 83: Cartier 1990s Tonneau In Platinum"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ca662057-35e4-47fc-8b1e-1c4ffb783da4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Speaking of Cartier, there will be a ton of focus on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-35/lot-33/" target=\"_blank\">lot 33, a 1970s Coussin in white gold</a>. This model has been breaking records over the past couple of years, quickly going from a $10,000 to $15,000 watch in yellow gold to hammering for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29152/lot/11/cartier-a-fine-and-rare-18k-gold-manual-wind-wristwatch-bamboo-coussin-circa-1970//" target=\"_blank\">$97,465 all-in at Bonham's this past June</a>. During the wild ride, an example of the much rarer white gold variant has not come up for sale. Expect lot 33 to break a record, well above the €30,000 to 60,000 estimate.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>My attention will be focused 50 lots later, though. While the market spotlight has been generally on vintage Cartier recently, the Tonneau has not been caught up in the storm quite as much as other models. Especially considering this is one of Cartier's first wristwatch designs, introduced in 1906, and abnormally large in size, this lack of market appreciation has surprised me. Some collectors are starting to catch on. For example, a 1920s Tonneau in platinum with provenance sold for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/tonneau-an-early-platinum-and-gold-tonneau-shaped?locale=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">$28,800 at Sotheby's</a> last June, and I have heard rumors of much higher offers being made to the new owner following that sale. But these 1980s and 1990s Tonneaus have been flying under the radar all summer. A yellow gold example sold on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://loupethis.com/auctions/cartier-paris-tonneau-xl-18k-yg/" target=\"_blank\">Loupe This in May for $7,700</a> – that's a great buy.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Two recent results have me calling my shot here in lot 83. At Phillips Geneva online last month, a 2000's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/CH080324/41/" target=\"_blank\">CPCP Tonneau in platinum sold for $24,034</a> – beating the high estimate. And this funky Tonneau Bamboo went crazy at Sotheby's Hong Kong a few weeks ago, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-i-2/tonneau-bamboo-a-yellow-gold-wristwatch-circa-1996?locale=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">selling for $43,259 all-in</a> – for a watch with a quartz movement! All this to say, Cartier collectors continue to search for new shapes and oddballs within the brand's history. The Tonneau has been slept on for too long. It has a heritage dating back to 1906, and these 1980s to 1990s re-releases blend a vintage look with modern build quality extremely well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lot 161: Rolex 1937 Chronograph Ref. 3330 In Steel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["834cfaac-f854-432a-8c27-aeef7eb1dc9e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Not quite as much of a market analysis or prediction of what will be \"hot\" next, this 1930s Rolex chronograph ref. 3330 is just a spectacular watch. Made from the late 1930s through the 1940s, this non-Oyster-cased Rolex chronograph is not only gorgeous but in a condition that you just will not find again. I am holding myself back from hyperbole with this one because I don't want to sound crazy. The reality is that finding any watch from 1937 in this condition is special, but when it is a Rolex chronograph produced in less than 200 examples total, with a 37mm stainless steel case, and with a two-color multi-scale dial double signed by Cravanzola Roma? That is in a whole different league.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Vintage stainless steel chronographs are not what the market is demanding right now, but for collectors who are looking for a watch like this, that almost doesn't matter. As a larger vintage watch community, we may have shifted our focus away from watches like pre-Daytonas and Longines 13ZNs, but the real collectors are still very much there. And paying big money for them, by the way. The €180,000 to €360,000 estimate is punchy, but I don't expect that to be an issue. This level of quality is next to impossible to find. In fact, an example of this reference of this quality has not come to market since <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.finarte.it/auction/watches-milan-2022-06-13/rolex-3330-chronograph-retailed-by-cravanzola-40s-79154?lang=en\%22 target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">this watch was last sold in 2022</a> and before that, since the record price for the reference in steel was set at the legendary <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080016/74/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Phillips Start-Stop-Reset in 2016</a>. I really wish I could see this one in person.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Mark Kauzlarich's Picks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lot 110: Rolex Day-Date ref. 6511 In Steel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e5a1d743-579d-4164-abfa-9bbd0a1b43d0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If I'm going to round out the list, I'll be the guy who picks two cover lots, but sue me; that's my prerogative. They're watches worth mentioning. The first one is a watch that is almost a meme. A steel Day-Date shouldn't exist. Rolex doesn't make them and theoretically never has. Except this one, at the very least, checks out. The reference 6511 was the first generation of Day-Date, and in 1955, Rolex produced this watch, serial number 99272, which was delivered to a dealer in Spain who sold it to a private collector who had it for decades. Eventually, the watch was discovered and ended up in John Goldberger's collection, where it sat for years. This is pretty much the ultimate Rolex Day-Date, with a gorgeous tropical dial and a white gold bezel that's just a bit yellowed from age. The estimate is €750,000-1,500,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lot 296: A Possibly Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 2438/1 In Pink Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3440c66d-8f87-4789-9dac-98c418a9c1e5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When I was writing my deep dive on the Patek ref. 2497, I mentioned the ref. 2438/1, the waterproof version of the 2497 with a screw-down caseback. Well, here's one that's pretty special and fresh to market: a pink gold 2438/1. Out of 56 examples of the reference, only five have come to market in pink gold (by my count), and all of them have dauphine hands and baton hour markers. This one is possibly unique and was otherwise unknown in this configuration, with \"Oversize\" Arabic numerals on the dial and blued stick hands. The watch has been in one collection for 45 years and comes with a ton of documentation. While I haven't seen it in person, the condition looks good in the images and will be a good get for a completist Patek collector or someone who loves this era but is looking for something a bit different from the rest. The estimate is €500,000-1,000,000</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lot 58: Audemars Piguet 25726BA Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch Conversion"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["220cb15d-a3fa-4516-ab58-c1ea80f4106c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Alright, we all know I'm a sucker for a pocket watch, but this one jumped out at me for two reasons. First, you don't often see factory conversions of pocket watches, where lugs are added to turn a pocket watch into a wristwatch. Why? Well, you often end up with a watch like this that's 47mm and hard to wear. Well, hard to wear unless you wear it over a cuff, that is.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a9608c4d-8c6a-4e42-af23-4ddc3f8d5dcb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>See, I've been looking for a specific watch for years now, if only to know what happened to it. Decades back, the famed Fiat leader and sprezzatura sartorial king Gianni Agnelli was photographed leaning out of his car, speaking with some people, wearing an oversized perpetual calendar conversion pocket watch on his wrist. This watch is similar, but it doesn't have quite the same configuration (Angelli's had a shorter stem/crown and no bow), so no dice on the lost watch, but this is still cool. It's No. 1 of the series of 25726BA made in the 1990s, and think about how confident you had to be to have it converted into a wristwatch. It is also a full set, so while it's not Agnelli's watch, it's still super interesting. The estimate is €70,000-140,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more on the Monaco Legend Group auction, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-35/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit their website</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"b618262e-7459-44e8-8538-33fa440616f6","container_id":13799,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/04804e9d-ac88-4d81-b995-843411270a88/hero-1.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Monaco Legend Preview","created_at":"2024-10-03T14:13:12.279-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-17T19:38:29.318-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/04804e9d-ac88-4d81-b995-843411270a88/hero-1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/auctions-monaco-legend-fall-2024","full_title":"Auctions: Three Editors Pick Three Watches Each From Monaco Legend's Fall Auction","tags":["auctions","monaco-legend-auction"]},{"id":13807,"slug":"watch-nerds-new-york-is-the-place-to-be-next-weekend","column_slug":"happenings","title":"Watch Nerds, New York Is The Place To Be Next Weekend","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-11T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-09T17:12:34.049-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-11T13:43:46.268-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>The annual WatchTime New York and Windup Watch Fair showcases are coming back to New York.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":27086,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're in or around the New York area, get excited because two of the year's biggest watch events are set to return. From Friday, October 18th through Sunday, October 20th, WatchTime New York and the Windup Watch Fair will take place just a few blocks apart in Manhattan. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>WatchTime New York is hosted by <i>WatchTime magazine </i>and is once again returning to Gotham Hall in Midtown. Meanwhile, Windup Watch Fair has moved to Center415, just a few blocks away. WatchTime takes place on Saturday and Sunday (its Friday evening cocktail event is sold out), while Windup begins on Friday and runs through the weekend. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d71d3428-9c77-4575-a499-567d2d2998e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Thirty-six brands will participate in WatchTime this year, including Blancpain, Chopard, H. Moser, MB&F, Parmigiani, and Piaget. Meanwhile, Windup has expanded to a new space this year and will play host to more than 110 watch brands. The list includes Baltic, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, Studio Underd0g, Timex, Zodiac, and a whole lot more (to be slightly self-promotional, Hodinkee Insurance will be there too). Windup's new space also includes a bar and lounge for hanging out. In addition, both shows have a lineup of panels throughout the weekend. On Sunday, panels at WatchTime will feature actor and collector Aldis Hodge, Fred Savage, Geoff Hess (Head of Watches at Sotheby's), and dealer Mike Nouveau. Windup is free for anyone to attend, while WatchTime costs $40 – tickets can be purchased <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.watchtimeevents.com/event-details/wtnysatsun/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0146b446-1ad1-4922-8712-8a1e01f2d9fe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Both events are geared towards enthusiasts and letting you get hands-on with watches. For many of these brands, it's the best time of year to see their watches in the States – even for a guy like me who does this for a living. I'll be running around the shows on Friday and Saturday, so say hey if you see me around. A number of brands even debut new releases around these two events, so it's a chance to get a first look at the newest watches.</p>\n\n<p>If you're around New York City from October 18th through October 20th, we hope to see you around. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more information, visit </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.watchtimeevents.com/wtny/" target=\"_blank\"><i>WatchTime New York</i></a><i> or </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://windupwatchfair.com/new-york//" target=\"_blank\"><i>Windup Watch Fair</i></a><i>. If you’re at Windup, make sure to stop by the Hodinkee Insurance booth! </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Watch Time And Windup New York Return October 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":38,"slug":"happenings","name":"Happenings","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2017-04-24T20:47:31.402-04:00","updated_at":"2021-01-04T14:04:40.580-05:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"5091b64e-5a7d-4dd3-a454-02061ef1bfdb","container_id":13807,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/ce664ebe-1a7e-42e4-bd3e-ae0c8fbce2eb/B0015693-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&fit=crop&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&alt=&ar=16%3A9&w=2400","width":2400,"height":1350,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"watchtime windup new york 2024 ","created_at":"2024-10-09T17:12:34.097-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-09T17:12:34.097-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/ce664ebe-1a7e-42e4-bd3e-ae0c8fbce2eb/B0015693-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-nerds-new-york-is-the-place-to-be-next-weekend","full_title":"Happenings: Watch Nerds, New York Is The Place To Be Next Weekend","tags":["worn-and-wound","windup-watch-fair","watchtime"]},{"id":13805,"slug":"in-conversation-with-max-busser-of-mbandf","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"In Conversation With Max Büsser Of MB&F","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-09T13:00:42.919-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-07T23:18:48.560-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-09T13:01:28.812-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Büsser reflects on his time at Jaeger-LeCoultre, (almost) 20 years of MB&F, and the recent investment by Chanel.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":15234,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Hodinkee Radio</i></a> feed<i>, </i>so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Apple Podcasts</i></a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\"><i>,</i></a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Stitcher</i></a><i>, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Spotify</i></a><i>, or </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\"><i>TuneIn</i></a><i>).</i></p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/ee3af9ee-ba4e-4cfa-a22c-87059ddd3132?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22
There's no one quite like Max Büsser in the watch world. Each of his creations is so innovative, unique, and cutting edge, but also all clearly from the same mind, challenging conventions of watchmaking.</p>\n\n<p>Büsser got his start in watches, working with Jaeger-LeCoultre during the rebirth of traditional watchmaking in the 1990s. From there, he joined Harry Winston and launched its Opus series, collaborating with independent watchmakers like FP Journe.</p>\n\n<p>Then, in 2005, he started his own brand, Max Busser and Friends. His Horological and Legacy Machines are like no other watches: pieces of kinetic art. </p>\n\n<p>On today's episode, Max joined Ben and me to talk about his entire career, including his nearly 20 years at MB&F. We also talk about the current state of innovation and creativity in the watch industry. We also discuss Chanel's recent investment in MB&F and what's next for him and MB&F. Without further ado, enjoy this conversation with Max and Ben.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"WG4RBncpYpQ","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>3:00</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/max-busser-lm101/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing the MB&F LM101</a></p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mb-and-f-lm101-stainless-steel-for-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">The MB&F LM101 Limited Edition for Hodinkee</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>3:39</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-mbf-hm2/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On With the MB&F HM2</a> (2013)</p>\n\n<p><strong>19:00</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-chronograph-2/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On With the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph</a> (2023)</p>\n\n<p><strong>20:30</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-date-sector-dial-a-week-on-the-wrist/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Sector Dial</a> (2017)</p>\n\n<p><strong>24:33</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/pre-sihh-introducing-the-a-lange-sohne-grand-lange-1-lumen-with-transparent-dial/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Grande Lange 1 Lumen</a> (2012)</p>\n\n<p><strong>31:58</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-datograph-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: The Classic Datograph</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>36:27</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-mbf-hm11/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: MB&F's Horological Machine 11 'Architect' – A House For The Wrist</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>36:33</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-madeditions-mad1s/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1S, Some Of The World's Best Horological Entertainment And So Much More</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Interview With Max Büsser of MB&F","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"a2ccffba-88c3-4837-9a97-b2fdffffe333","container_id":13805,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/a426050b-ac6c-485d-989f-90aa15577130/H-Radio-Article-Hero-028.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Photo of MB&F watch with the text \"HODINKEE Radio\" typed over it","created_at":"2024-10-07T23:18:48.623-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-08T23:16:38.590-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/a426050b-ac6c-485d-989f-90aa15577130/H-Radio-Article-Hero-028.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-conversation-with-max-busser-of-mbandf","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: In Conversation With Max Büsser Of MB&F","tags":["mb&f","hodinkee-radio","max-busser"]},{"id":13764,"slug":"the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters","column_slug":"buying_selling_collecting","title":"The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-07T09:09:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-19T12:33:56.706-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-09T10:27:18.203-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>The original Oyster Perpetual was one of the first watches collectors fell for; today, the Bubbleback represents an era of Rolex that still has a charm all its own.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":49211,"public_token":"56fe92e963cae1c1f05da71306a32db5","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Too small. Hard to service. Old. Out of style.</p>\n\n<p>These are just a few of the supposed problems with the Rolex Bubbleback. Still, it's one of the most historically important vintage Rolex watches, using Rolex's waterproof Oyster case and its first automatic \"Perpetual\" movements; it was also one of the first truly \"collectible\" wristwatches – collectors started hoovering them up in the 1980s.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eb8d6f47-739b-4a97-be4d-5ab1d99c6f61"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Rolex produced the Bubbleback from 1933 through the mid-1950s. Never an official designation, \"Bubbleback\" is a nickname collectors have given to a loose list of references with big, bubble-like casebacks to accommodate the automatic winding rotor.</p>\n\n<p>I've always been fascinated by the Bubbleback. Not just for its historical importance. The designs are incredibly varied, from Art Deco to Bauhaus and everything in between, reflecting the long production run. It's so wide and varied that the Bubbleback is nearly impossible to catalog comprehensively, though <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-jason-singer-video/" target=\"_blank\">some have certainly tried</a>. They were also one of the first \"hype\" watches, with collectors paying seemingly unfathomable, six-figure sums for rare Bubblebacks during the run-up in the 1980s and early '90s.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>They've largely fallen out of favor since as collectors have moved on to later Rolex sports watches. But the Bubbleback still has a small, dedicated following. Despite their flaws or maybe because of them, I love Bubblebacks.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["78d64538-efa0-4682-8977-24519235f019","d868c499-39a9-4924-88dc-715f8caeb466"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Another one of those acolytes is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/eric-ku-and-justin-gruenberg-loupe-this/" target=\"_blank\">Justin Gruenberg</a> of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://thekeystone.com//" target=\"_blank\">The Keystone</a>. While Gruenberg's often associated with rare vintage Cartier, Patek, and other such treasures, when I visited him in L.A. a couple of months ago, I wanted to see some of his favorite Bubblebacks.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"I'm fascinated by the lengths Rolex was willing to go during this period,\" Gruenberg said of the Bubbleback. \"It's the total opposite of where they are now, consolidating the manufacturing process and ensuring every release is a hit. It's an era where they were experimenting with different colors, layouts, numerals, graphics – that's what I'm into.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["85080906-b577-4830-8572-dbadd16b5375","9e676ec0-d226-4048-bd62-b5275b9074f5"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>During this time, Rolex wasn't just making Bubblebacks, so Gruenberg also showed me a few \"flatbacks\" – manual-wind watches, even early chronographs – to give a feel for what else Rolex was up to. While Rolex focused its production in the 1950s and '60s, the era leading up to that was an incredible time of experimentation. If you look closely enough you'll also start to see many of the ideas and innovations that would take hold later, many of which still define Rolex today.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The main text will tell the story of the Bubbleback, from its origin in the 1930s to its take-off in collectibility in the '80s to today. In the photo captions we'll look at specific watches from this era of Rolex.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"First, A Short History Of The Bubbleback"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["81ca1912-cd4f-4541-a2bb-eb42815fb590"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Bubbleback\" refers to the round, domed caseback of these early automatic Rolex watches. Rolex introduced its first automatic \"perpetual\" movement in 1931. The first Bubbleback came in 1933, with a bulging caseback to make space for those new 360-degree winding rotors. I won't explore the entire history of the automatic wristwatch, but the legendary David Boettcher <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/myrolexpage.php/" target=\"_blank\">has written about</a> the Harwood self-winding watch and precursors to the Rolex Perpetual.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Prior to that, Rolex introduced its first waterproof \"Oyster\" case in 1926; while it wasn't the first waterproof wristwatch (that honor goes to Depollier), it certainly advanced and commercialized the technology. After figuring out its Oyster cases in the 1920s, these Bubblebacks are the first watches to combine two of Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf's key tenets that came to define the brand: Oyster Perpetual. \"Oyster\" for the waterproof case, \"Perpetual\" for the automatic movement. There's a reason these two words are still on almost every Rolex dial even today, nearly 100 years later.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9902b44d-df89-4eaf-8e10-8bb733ee5e0f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Rolex and Wilsdorf worked closely with manufacturer Aegler to improve early automatic winding movements. Eventually, multiple patents were granted to protect the winding of a wristwatch by an oscillating rotor. This is why no other manufacturers produced full-rotor automatic movements at scale until the 1950s – but there's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to/" target=\"_blank\">Ben's article</a> about the Patek 2526 for that story.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For nearly two decades, Rolex essentially had the perpetual rotor to itself and produced an incredible variety of watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1980s: The Original Bubbleback Collectors"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["74d7f9dc-cbc3-4f27-8a4c-a12dab6f1df7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Bubbleback's importance in combining Rolex's waterproof \"Oyster\" case and \"Perpetual\" automatic movements didn't go unnoticed by early wristwatch collectors. In the 1980s and '90s, the Rolex Bubbleback was <i>the </i>watch to have, the way a vintage Daytona was in 2017 or a steel Nautilus was in 2021.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"In the '80s, the Bubbleback was the most popular vintage Rolex, long before everyone started wearing vintage Daytonas, Submariners, and GMTs,\" says dealer <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/west-hollywood-dealer-ken-jacobs-on-embracing-vintage-style-for-40-plus-years/" target=\"_blank\">Ken Jacobs of Wanna Buy A Watch</a>. Collectors latched onto the variety of the Bubbleback: All kinds of dial designs; cases in steel, gold, or two-tone; bezel variations; hooded or non-hooded lugs; even the different bracelet types.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["dd08bfdf-ddc0-48b4-99bb-6f227a5673a5","1792a0d5-c264-45e9-93d9-5e93fc5a032f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Jacobs said that at their peak, some of the most collectible Bubblebacks – two-tone pink gold case, original dial, on a matching Gay Freres beads-of-rice bracelet if you've got it – might sell for $9,000 to $12,000. But truly special examples with rare dials could command much more. As with many vintage watches, pink gold Bubblebacks would command a premium for their relative rarity. Meanwhile, most stainless steel Bubblebacks would've been sold on straps for $3,000 to $5,000. Look around the market today, and you'll see those prices haven't changed much, 30 years (and 30 years of inflation) later.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While considered small today, part of the appeal of the Bubbleback in the '80s was that they wore quite large compared to other wristwatches being collected (think Art Deco watches and vintage American brands like Hamilton, Elgin, and so on). This is also why Bubblebacks with hooded lugs that wore even larger were especially in demand.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["93e5a503-83ff-44f0-b1c5-bd8d7a8bd137"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of those early Bubbleback collectors was Jason Singer, who showed an incredible variety of Bubblebacks in his <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-jason-singer-video/" target=\"_blank\">Talking Watches</a>. But, Singer's trajectory as a collector mirrors the broader market. While he discovered the Bubbleback early, he then moved on to later sports Rolex. Jacobs said that as these sports models increased in popularity, Bubblebacks fell out of favor by the early '90s.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Everything was bigger, sporty, and Bubblebacks faded into the background in the American market,\" Jacobs said.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A Quick Word On The ‘Modular’ Nature Of Bubblebacks And The Origin Of The ‘California’ Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["3fecbeb8-ffd3-4ae7-95e4-3fc359a148f6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first Bubblebacks generally feature dial designs with applied or luminous Arabic or Roman numerals, or \"California\" dials that mix Arabic and Roman numerals. In the '40s, Rolex even obtained a patent for this design, called \"Error Proof\" dials.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But, when Bubblebacks started gaining popularity later with collectors in the 20th century, dial refinishers, especially Kirk Rich in Los Angeles, would often mimic this mixed numeral style. As these dials proliferated, they became known as \"California\" dials. It used to be something of a shorthand for a refinished dial. Nowadays, it's a nickname for this style that mixes Arabic and Roman numerals.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Back then, people just wanted a dial that looked cool,\" Jacobs said. \"It was early in the popularization of vintage watches and Rolex, and the U.S. was definitely a fashion market. It wasn't a big deal.\" Jacobs explained that this was a time when vintage fashion was rising in popularity and vintage stores, including his, began opening up on Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood. Vintage Levi's, Hawaiian shirts, Rolex Bubblebacks – it was all part of the look.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Typically, original California or Error-Proof dials are solid colors with radium luminous numerals, while the refinished ones can have an assortment of color combinations, often without lume. This starts to get to the very nature of the Bubbleback.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["5279baef-d0a8-4c2f-95f9-0b9ef6f57740"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"These are almost modular watches,\" Gruenberg says. \"You see so many things that have been switched out, it's kind of the intrinsic nature of Rolex and its design compared to Patek.\" He says it's often hard to know for certain whether a particular dial and case combination is correct or original – there are so many variations you're bound to find something new every once and a while.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here's how accepted the practice of swapping out parts was when collectors started buying Bubblebacks. Jacobs told me that when Bubblebacks were at their peak, Wanna Buy A Watch was working on a \"Build a Bubbleback\" program. Essentially, customers would be able to flip through a catalog, pick their case, dial, and bracelet/strap, and WBAW would put together that watch. They never got around to offering this program, but it shows how in-demand Bubblebacks were, and how accepted it was that parts might be swapped in and out to make for a watch that looked better.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Bubbleback also had a long production run. While it's generally accepted that Rolex stopped making them in the mid-1950s as a new generation of movements allowed for slimmer cases, Jacobs said that you can find Bubblebacks that sold as late as the early '60s.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e6b9ea5a-eb0f-4286-b57c-de57f19dd246"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, these later Bubblebacks often had simple stick markers and leaf hands. They didn't really look like \"Bubblebacks,\" in other words. Especially in the '80s, dealers would automatically replace or refinish these to match the older aesthetic that collectors wanted. This is also when enterprising refinishers started producing after-market Mercedes hands to match the look of the dial. It was all common and accepted, at least in the U.S. – again, it just looked cool.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Nowadays, 99 percent of Bubbleback dials have probably been worked on or refinished,\" Gruenberg said. That said, many of these dials were refinished in the early days of watch collecting and are pretty unsophisticated and easy to spot. If it's not immediately obvious whether a dial is refinished, the print quality is often lacking. Gruenberg says to look in particular at the \"R\" in Rolex or the \"Swiss Made\" beneath six o'clock. Compare it to known original dials (like those in this article!), and you'll often see it doesn't match or looks sloppy.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8a18fe23-cf7f-4fa1-a2eb-bc1219f334a7","629a72de-c0eb-4cd8-8994-31d6fb621876"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While refinishing or restoring dials was common, there were some lines Jacobs says he hated to see dealers cross. The biggest was refinishing a Tudor dial to the half-Roman, half-Arabic style. Original Tudor dials didn't use this style and it felt like trying to turn a Tudor into a Rolex. Even worse was refinishing a Tudor dial as a \"Rolex\" or simply adding a Rolex signature. While a refinished Rolex dial was never misrepresented as anything but that, this practice felt like trying to disguise a Tudor as a Rolex so it could sell for more.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"‘Japanese Condition’"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a6a8dcb9-c506-457c-8fc2-621b13cb0d4b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While American collectors, especially in Southern California, started discovering the Rolex Bubbleback in the 1980s, they were far from the first.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Long before us though, the Japanese were collectors and connoisseurs of the Bubbleback,\" Jacobs said. Unlike American collectors, they always valued original dials. Jacobs said that when he or another American dealer took in an especially good Bubbleback, they had a term for it: \"Japanese Condition.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["88995186-e1fb-45ec-8aec-bb80c2e0d510"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"American dealers would save great condition, original dials for Japanese collectors,\" Jacobs said. \"But the bar was so fucking high.\" And it wasn't just originality, the entire watch had to be a nine out of 10 or better. While the Bubbleback has mostly fallen out of favor with American collectors, the same isn't true in Japan.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"In Italy, in Japan, they're still collecting [the Bubbleback],\" Gruenberg said. \"It's never really fallen out of favor.\" He recalled going to Japan in 2008 and 2009 when he started as a professional dealer and demand for good Bubbleback being as strong as ever. While there isn't a huge market for Bubblebacks, there are still historical collectors and dealers who buy any high-quality Bubbleback that pops up. Today, many of the best Bubblebacks are still in the hands of Japanese collectors.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6c5062c4-153c-4047-a41a-556a54fb83fd","39287569-c0a2-4375-8977-da3221c839b6"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"But in the U.S., we mostly fell out of love with small watches until recently,\" Gruenberg said. Despite the recent trend that has lifted everything from Cartier to Piaget to the Patek Calatrave ref. 96, there hasn't been much renewed interest in the Bubbleback.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>(I briefly mentioned the Bubbleback to my Hodinkee Japan colleague, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/masaharu.me//" target=\"_blank\">Masaharu</a>, and we discussed doing a \"Part 2\" on this story from the perspective of Japanese collectors. \"Japanese collectors started the Bubbleback's popularity back in the day,\" he said. \"Many of those collectors stopped buying after international markets got into it.\" Stay tuned!)</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Some Nerdy ‘Perpetual’ Movement Stuff"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a39bb416-9ced-4dde-9749-14466780c543"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Rolex introduced its first automatic perpetual caliber 620 in 1931, commercializing its new self-winding patents. It would then use the cal. 620 in the First Series Bubblebacks produced until 1935, starting with reference 1858. Over the years, Rolex updated the 600 series with newer calibers to improve accuracy, reliability, and durability after the original perpetual movement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3fb846db-e83d-4941-a9dc-4fcf3b3e2796"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Besides the caliber 600 series, Rolex produced its automatic movements in other sizes during the Bubbleback era. The caliber 400 series, including the cal. 410 and 420, is typically found in smaller Bubblebacks.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the late 1940s and into the '50s, Rolex introduced the slimmer caliber 500 series. These calibers illustrate how Rolex continued to refine its automatic movements, allowing for slimmer cases and the transition from the chunkier Bubbleback design.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Rolex also introduced the caliber 700 series in the '40s. Again, these movements were thinner and more refined than their predecessors, while also improving winding efficiency. This allowed Rolex to introduce models with slimmer, more contemporary cases. For example, Rolex used the caliber 710 in the first Datejust, introduced in 1945. This is also when Rolex introduced larger 36mm watches, much larger than the traditional Bubbleback, nicknamed <i>Ovettone</i>, or \"big egg\" by Italian collectors. Early and Ovettones have slightly protruding casebacks, sometimes referred to as \"semi-Bubblebacks.\" It marks the beginning of the transition to larger, slimmer, sportier watches from Rolex.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>By the early 1950s, Rolex introduced its 1000 series calibers, which allowed for thinner cases and flat casebacks, marking the end of the Bubbleback era.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Collecting The Rolex Bubbleback Today"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["190b16a4-4225-477f-b7b9-a65a1ca636cd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"I'm no longer a friend of the Bubbleback,\" Jacobs said. \"Or rather, it's not a friend to me.\" He explained that servicing vintage Bubblebacks is a huge challenge. It's almost impossible to source parts for the calibers inside Bubblebacks; even if you do, it's hard to find the right watchmaker for the job.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Then, even if you buy a running Bubbleback, there's no assurance that it's going to keep running or have a workable power reserve.\" As a retailer who offers a guarantee on every watch he sells, Jacobs says it's almost impossible to sell Bubblebacks on a commercial level.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Gruenberg concurred.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Anyone who knows me knows I rarely set them. It's purely about the design.\" For those used to smaller watches, the case size is just about perfect.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Beyond that, there's the condition issue. Most dials have been restored or refinished. Similarly, many cases have been over-polished over the years. Gruenberg says to pay special attention to the brushing on the case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"The case brushing is pretty unique to the Bubbleback,\" he said. \"Restorers aren't really able to get the finish down the second time. So pay attention to the sharpness of the bezel, the brush strokes in the polishing.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"It’s Not All About The Bubbleback"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["52a91cdd-cf26-4c16-a3d8-153938db9161"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"There are a lot of watches from that 1940s-50s era that can be had for basically nothing,\" Gruenberg said. He pointed to the tonneau-shaped Rolex Viceroy as another example, as well as early manual-wind Oysters that can be picked up for as little as $1,000 to $2,000 on eBay.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are also watches with more historical significance that feel like a relative deal. Gruenberg showed me his Zerographe as an example. The Zerographe is the first chronograph Rolex produced in an Oyster case, and collectors think there are only a dozen or so around. Recently, collector Phil Toledano <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-conversation-with-phil-toledano-and-mike-nouveau#comments\" target=\"_blank\">showed us</a> a Zerographe he acquired at auction for what he felt was a relative deal, about $50,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Jacobs agreed that this era of Rolex has more to offer than just the Bubbleback.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Boys' size Rolex was also extremely popular in the '80s,\" he said. Since Rolex's presence didn't really start to expand in the U.S. until after World War II, he said to look to Canadian market watches like the Raleigh, Victory, and Sky-Rocket as special watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Gruenberg also pointed to the Rolex era before the Bubbleback: the rectangular Rolex Prince.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"I don't understand why people want a Cartier Tank but not a rectangular Patek or Rolex,\" Gruenberg said. But we'll save that for another day.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That said, it's important to remember that many of the Bubblebacks or other Rolex watches of this era are, like Jimmy Carter, gracefully aging to 100 years old. It's hard, if not impossible, to find one in decent condition. And when you do, there's no guarantee that it'll run well, or even at all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["77c2a582-9b8d-4cf3-8cf7-1227c53746c9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>More broadly, this era of Rolex has always felt like the perfect blend of sports and elegance. By the early 1950s we had the Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer, and all the other sports models that continue to make up the Rolex catalog. But before that was an incredible era of experimentation and innovation in complications and design. I've written about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-6062-triple-calendar-moonphase-and-why-it-remains-the-biggest-star-in-all-of-vintage-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">the 6062 Triple Calendar</a> before, but there's also the Jean-Claude Killy, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chameleons-complications-an-intergalactic-rolex-and-all-the-big-time-lots-from-the-geneva-auctions/" target=\"_blank\">Galaxy</a>, and so many others.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As Gruenberg said, it's all about the design. Much the way Southern California collectors in the '80s latched onto the Bubbleback for their look, variety, and for the fashion statement they made – for collector's today, it's much the same. But it's important not to forget the historical importance of the original \"Oyster Perpetual.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Everything You Need To Know About The Vintage Rolex Bubbleback","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":172,"slug":"buying_selling_collecting","name":"Buying, Selling, & Collecting","description":"Original research, analysis, and perspectives to help you with buying, selling, and collecting the most important watches of today.","sort_order":1,"created_at":"2021-02-23T12:04:29.427-05:00","updated_at":"2022-09-19T22:20:46.269-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"5007eb9a-05c8-481a-9b2c-6e0ced1d8e57","container_id":13764,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/b4a19cd1-ef1c-4327-871d-facc635d65e8/DSC_4162-2.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"vintage rolex bubbleback","created_at":"2024-09-19T12:33:56.747-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-19T17:11:49.315-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/b4a19cd1-ef1c-4327-871d-facc635d65e8/DSC_4162-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters","full_title":"Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters","tags":["rolex","vintage-rolex","hands-on","vintage-watches","buying-selling-collecting","rolex-bubbleback"]},{"id":13792,"slug":"a-rolex-gmt-master-that-went-to-space-is-up-for-auction","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"A Rolex GMT-Master That Went To Space Is Up For Auction","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-03T13:01:44.894-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-02T08:39:17.504-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-03T13:01:49.722-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Astronaut Edgar Mitchell's GMT-Master worn on the Apollo 14 mission was the first Rolex on the Moon.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":31837,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On February 5, 1971, the Lunar Module of Apollo 14 landed on the Moon with astronauts Alan Shepard and Edgar Mitchell on board. While Apollo astronauts were famously issued Omega Speedmaster Pros, Mitchell also decided to wear his Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675 during the mission. When Mitchell set foot on the Moon, he became just the sixth person to do so. Now, Mitchell's GMT-Master is at auction, along with a few other watches from his personal collection.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After joining the U.S. Navy and accumulating over 5,000 hours of flight time, Edgar Mitchell was selected as part of NASA's fifth cohort of astronauts. He was awarded a Presidential Medal of Freedom for his work on the Apollo 13 operations team; his most notable contribution was flying simulators to help the crew navigate the Lunar Module back to Earth. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a8a18f08-8ba2-4b23-b90f-d6bf2d2cfc67"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Mitchell then became the pilot for the Lunar Module of Apollo 14, the eighth crewed mission of the Apollo program and the third to land on the Moon. After making their lunar landing, Mitchell and Shepard made two walks on the Moon's surface. (Famously, Shepard even hit a couple of golf balls.)</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While Apollo program astronauts received their official Omega Speedmaster to wear on the outside of their spacesuits, a few also wore private watches under their suits. Jack Swigert wore his GMT-Master on Apollo 13 – Rolex had this watch on display at Watches & Wonders 2023, so I assume it's a part of Rolex's collection. The only other space-flown Rolex that's been sold publicly is Ron Evan's Pepsi GMT-Master, which sold at Heritage Auction in 2009 for $131,450. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dd3e2e32-7d7c-47ea-87bf-e4b29e0c893e","b240a056-e3a5-4141-8b20-a9a8a015bc5e"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But Mitchell's was probably the first Rolex on the Moon. The GMT-Master is at RR Auction, a well-known auction house in the world of space memorabilia – most recently, it's also sold a bunch (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/heres-what-to-make-of-three-astronaut-speedmasters-selling-in-one-week/" target=\"_blank\">here</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/could-astronaut-wally-schirras-omega-speedmaster-set-a-speedy-record/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>) of those gold Omega Speedmasters given to astronauts. Officially, the auction house calls Mitchell's Rolex \"one of two Apollo-flown Rolex watches.\" But there are photos of Mitchell wearing the watch before take-off, in the module, and right as he returns to Earth. It seems likely he would've had his GMT on during the duration of the flight. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch comes with a letter of authenticity signed by Mitchell, who died in 2016. It's also engraved on the back: \"Worn by CDR. E. Mitchell on Apollo 14, 1971. To Karlin [sic] – My Daughter.\" RR Auction has placed an estimate of $400,000-plus on Mitchell's GMT-Master, with the sale closing on October 25th. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3e64f69e-2a24-4fc3-af21-14eef055c0b7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'd have to guess that a watch of such importance will attract the interest of Rolex as a bidder. It's no secret the brand has scooped up a few of its historically important watches at auction over the last few years. Last year, it bought <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-record-breaking-results-at-geneva-auction/" target=\"_blank\">Commander Warren's GMT-Master ref. 6542 at Sotheby's</a>, one of the more expensive results we've seen for a vintage GMT-Master (Marlon Brando's bezel-less GMT still sets the pace, having now sold twice). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["15948ac3-ddc4-428b-a13f-f3d1ceac7e54"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'd expect Mitchell's GMT-Master 1675 to at least match RR Auctions' estimate. </p>\n\n<p>As for the watch itself, the serial number dates it to about 1970-71, meaning he bought it shortly before the Apollo 14 flight. The bracelet code dates to the end of 1970. Interestingly, it has a 9315 bracelet with Fliplock clasp, more commonly associated with Rolex's dive watches. The \"Pepsi\" bezel has aged to a deep color, with the red fading just a bit. The Mark 1 \"Long E\" dial is nicely preserved, with a warm aging to the lume. The luminous hands are slightly lighter, not uncommon, especially on these early matte dial examples. The case looks to be in excellent condition, with thick bevels and few scratches – the same goes for the folded Oyster bracelet. Especially with the engraving and corresponding letter, it's almost like Mitchell knew exactly what this watch would mean one day, and that it might represent a life-changing sum of money for his daughter. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a few other space-related watches in the sale: Dave Scott's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rrauction.com/auctions/lot-detail/349274607026311-omega-speedmaster-professional-18k-gold-apollo-11-commemorative-watch-from-the-personal-collection-of-dave-scott/?cat=0\%22 target=\"_blank\">gold Apollo 11 Speedmaster</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rrauction.com/auctions/lot-detail/349244207026295-bulova-astronaut-mark-i-watch-with-custom-houston-dial-from-the-personal-collection-of-edgar-mitchell/?cat=0\%22 target=\"_blank\">a custom Bulova</a> also from Ed Mitchell, among others. But Mitchell's Rolex GMT-Master is easily the most important. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more on Ed Mitchell's GMT-Master 1675, check out </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rrauction.com/auctions/lot-detail/349244007026286-apollo-14-flown-rolex-gmt-master-pepsi-watch-from-the-personal-collection-of-edgar-mitchell-one-of-two-apollo-flown-rolex-watches-ever-sold-at-auction/?cat=0\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>the lot on RR Auction</i></a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Astronaut Edgar Mitchell's Rolex GMT-Master To Be Auctioned","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"ee07a931-4273-4757-bc75-f4b9fb85dd47","container_id":13792,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/5e81c128-8ab3-4714-9d94-4f1b17f6e08f/16x9forHSite2.png","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"dave scott space-flown apollo 14 Rolex GMT-Master","created_at":"2024-10-02T08:39:17.542-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-02T08:39:17.542-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/5e81c128-8ab3-4714-9d94-4f1b17f6e08f/16x9forHSite2.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-rolex-gmt-master-that-went-to-space-is-up-for-auction","full_title":"Auctions: A Rolex GMT-Master That Went To Space Is Up For Auction","tags":["rolex","auctions","rolex-gmt-master"]},{"id":13790,"slug":"tom-brady-sale-to-include-his-unique-royal-oak-flying-tourbillon-among-other-watches","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"Tom Brady Sale To Include His Unique Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Among Other Watches","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-01T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-30T19:03:27.996-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-01T12:52:26.498-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Sotheby's \"GOAT Collection\" auction to feature watches and other memorabilia from the seven-time Super Bowl winner. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":40271,"public_token":"38f7773157876fa3a3305262b666410f","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Tom Brady's a watch guy. This much we've known for a while. In December, it'll be on full display at Sotheby's, where a handful of Brady's watches will be a part of its \"The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures from Tom Brady.\" Over the years, Brady has even appeared on Hodinkee to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tom-brady-iwc-schaffhausen/" target=\"_blank\">pen an article</a> about his personal IWC (a Big Pilot's Watch TOP GUN Edition \"Mojave Desert\") and chatted watches <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tom-brady-hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">on Hodinkee Radio</a>. Now, five of his watches are part of a sale dedicated to memorabilia from Brady's career.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As Brady has told us, his journey into watches came after his first Super Bowl win in 2002 when he visited Tourneau in Manhattan and walked out with an IWC GST Automatic Alarm. It came full circle when Brady became an IWC ambassador in 2019 after a stint endorsing TAG Heuer. Since his (second) retirement from football, he's become a watch free agent. We've <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tom-brady-wearing-the-rolex-jigsaw-emoji-day-date-at-a-birmingham-city-football-game/" target=\"_blank\">seen him wearing</a> a Rolex Day-Date \"Puzzle Dial\" and a vintage Rolex Daytona \"John Player Special,\" among other watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["843d77b0-41e2-40d4-aa56-8f6d105d4d36"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the most notable watches that Brady has stepped out with is his custom Audemars Piguet Royal Oak flying tourbillon, and now it's at auction. The tourbillon has a unique salmon <i>tapisserie </i>pattern, along with \"T-O-M-VII-B-R-A-D-Y\" in baguettes instead of numerals, along with a bunch more baguettes on the bezel. The rotor is also custom-engraved with Brady's signature.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We've spotted Brady with <i>a lot </i>of good watches the past couple of years. Vintage Daytonas, a Patek 2499 perpetual calendar chronograph, and even <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tom-brady-says-hes-retiring-for-good-and-heres-the-rare-iwc-portuguese-tourbillon-he-was-wearing-bef/" target=\"_blank\">an IWC Tourbillon Squelette</a>. So I hope Mr. Brady takes no offense when I say that this one's not my favorite, even if it puts some of AP's best watchmaking on full display.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It reminds me of this joke that John Mulaney <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://youtu.be/MLZ87v_0gS0?si=yk5E9ZWkrwbZt5pv&t=124\%22 target=\"_blank\">makes about Beverly Hills</a>: \"Beverly Hills is fancy...ish. It's expensive in the way that the things DJ Khaled wears are expensive, but they don't fill you with envy.\" And that's basically how I feel about this Royal Oak tourbillon, which has an estimate of $400,000–800,000. This also coming from a Colts fan, a team that Brady bowled over for at least a couple of those \"VII\" Super Bowls. So, consider a grain of salt.</p>\n\n<p>For Sotheby's, the sale is another major celebrity get, just a season after the auction house <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/sylvester-stallones-grandmaster-chime-sells-for-dollar54-million-evaluating-vintage-patek-philippe-c/" target=\"_blank\">sold Sylvester Stallone's Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime for $5.4 million.</a> These highlights are part of a sale that will feature 47 items in total – 27 watches (with an approximate total estimate of $3-6 million), and 20 sports items (estimate $3-5 million). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["38036c74-4dc6-4f75-b185-9572ce62937f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Alongside the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon, four other watches from Brady's collection are in the sale. There's a Richard Mille 35-03 \"Baby Nadal.\" This is the edition that introduced RM's variable inertia \"butterfly\" rotor and made it so the wearer could adjust it with that pusher at seven o'clock. The idea behind the adjustable rotor is that you can vary the inertia of the rotor by changing the position of its two wing-like elements. Press that pusher at seven o'clock, and it goes into \"Sport Mode,\" where the movement of the rotor is blocked. It's a neat little innovation, and Brady's been seen wearing several RMs over the years. <i>Estimate: $300,000–$500,000</i>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13b93cb7-1c5f-4d9c-82c7-fbe83bfd9a2d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As an athlete of considerable renown, Brady's also got the requisite Patek Philippe Nautilus and Rolex Day Date. The Nautilus is a 5980R, a rose gold chronograph. Patek added a bracelet to it back in 2013 because every Nautilus needs a bracelet. Back then, Ben <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-patek-philippe-59801r-001-the-nautilus-chrono-in-rose-gold-gets-a-bracelet/" target=\"_blank\">said,</a> \"If you're THAT guy, this is THE watch to wear. You know what we mean.\" Surely, Brady qualifies, perhaps more than anyone on the planet, as THAT guy, and you can certainly find photos of him wearing his 5980 since he acquired it in 2017. <i>Estimate: $180,000–$240,000</i>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["361e22e0-f4f7-4568-ac33-e51c31ad30fd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While Brady has been recently freed from the benefits and burdens of paid ambassadorship, one lot at Sotheby's harkens back to his days with IWC. And we must remember, the relationship is one that began quite organically – Brady famously says that the GST Automatic Alarm that he eventually bought at Tourneau was actually his screensaver for years before.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You might remember the parade from Brady's last Super Bowl victory with the Tampa Bay Bucs <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfyLLQO8sh8\%22 target=\"_blank\">for him tossing the Lombardi Trophy</a> across the Tampa Bay, but he can also be seen wearing this IWC Top Gun Edition \"SFTI.\" <i>Estimate: $12,000–$18,000</i>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["1660da25-fc83-4605-9e7b-4486397bed61"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Along with the watches, Sotheby's is also selling memorabilia from Brady's career: The NFL Combine shirt from his 40-yard dash (est. $100,000–$200,000); the final game-worn jersey from his college years at Michigan (est. $300,000–$500,000); and a game-used helmet from his time with Tampa (est. $100,000–$150,000).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Back in the crazy days of 2022, a Brady rookie card <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.espn.com/nfl/story/_/id/33202950/tom-brady-rookie-card-sells-ebay-23-million-third-most-expensive-football-card-ever/" target=\"_blank\">sold for $2.3 million</a>, making it the third-most expensive football card ever. Like watches, collectibles of every category have cooled since. That said, interest in Brady is still strong, even if he's getting roasted on Netflix nowadays instead of playing on Sundays.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm curious to see what the \"Brady premium\" will be, if any, for the watches in this sale. Surely, the unique Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon will command a sum more handsome than Brady since it literally screams \"Brady\" at you in diamonds, but the other watches feel less identifiable with Brady, the GOAT. Sure, provenance is always part of a watch's value, but how much?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>These highlights, along with all 47 items from The GOAT Collection, will be auctioned at Sotheby's New York on December 10th. They'll also be on exhibition in the week leading up to the sale. For more information, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/departments/watches/" target=\"_blank\"><i>check out Sotheby's website</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Tom Brady To Sell Watches And Other Items At Auction","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"f1582ba7-69b2-4e28-893c-428b4b01153c","container_id":13790,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/9245995e-9c4e-4f8f-8f17-927909eedb90/16x9forHSite2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"tom brady watches to be auctioned off at sotheby's","created_at":"2024-09-30T19:03:28.134-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-01T08:44:54.682-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/9245995e-9c4e-4f8f-8f17-927909eedb90/16x9forHSite2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tom-brady-sale-to-include-his-unique-royal-oak-flying-tourbillon-among-other-watches","full_title":"Auctions: Tom Brady Sale To Include His Unique Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Among Other Watches","tags":["audemars-piguet","auctions","tom-brady"]},{"id":13787,"slug":"intro-lorca-model-no-2-chronograph-live-pics","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Lorca Model No. 2 Chronograph (Live Pics)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-01T09:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-30T08:08:45.416-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-15T13:05:52.458-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A chronograph with mid-century vibes makes for an impressive follow-up from the young New York brand. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":30510,"public_token":"594261a1e1f86e79c955eaf0f1885c19","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Remember Lorca? In early 2023, the new brand, founded by Canadian-Swiss-New Yorker Jesse Marchant, pleasantly surprised with its Model No. 1. That watch was a 36mm GMT so good that author Gary Shteyngart <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-one-man-brand-called-lorca-just-made-the-36mm-gmt-of-my-dreams/" target=\"_blank\">waxed poetically about it</a>. Now, Lorca is back with the Model No. 2, which takes the proportions and mid-century inspiration of its first release and applies them to the chronograph. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["202be8c2-4a4a-40dd-8ca2-958ca3ec599b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What Lorca's Model No. 1 GMT had going for it was surprise (36mm? GMT? Vintage inspiration? Sign me – and Gary – up!). The Model No. 2 Chronograph has something else: Refinement. While it picks up on many of the cues of the Model No. 1, it's decidedly different. As with the GMT, it's hard to pinpoint any specific mid-century or vintage inspiration, even though it's everywhere. To me, this is what makes for a successful \"heritage\" design, especially for an upstart brand like Lorca with no heritage to call its own.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It starts with the size: the Model No. 2's 316L stainless steel case measures 37 x 14.1mm. It's 46mm lug-to-lug, 38mm at the bezel, and much of that thickness is due to the domed sapphire crystal – the case itself is 11.6mm. The case has a mix of polished and brushed surfaces, but the real standout is the bezel. It has a grooved pattern that feels very of the 1950s, think the Rolex Datejust \"Thunderbird\" or my grandma's fancy silverware. On the functionality side, it's a bi-directional, 120-click, rotating bezel with 12-hour markers in Lorca's own font (love a good open \"6\"). It's an atypical choice for a chronograph – more on that in a moment.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["15d1b260-0f1a-4e02-86a9-861c11656c6a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Model No. 2 is delivered on a nine-row bracelet similar to that seen on its GMT. It's thin (2.6mm), supple, and tapers nicely from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp. It's also worth commending Lorca for that clasp. It's milled, thin, and well-executed, a noticeable improvement over what larger brands are prone to stamping out at this price point. It also has a no-tool micro-adjust in the clasp, an improvement over the Model No 1's bracelet.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3f1cbc69-4698-471a-a397-bbbec35f2459","92c0b414-66e0-48b9-ba54-3694b79be87a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Lorca is offering the Model No. 2 with three dial options: silver, black, or a warm grey with silver subdials. I was able to get hands-on with a prototype of the latter, and I like the effect of the grey subdial with warm undertones. All three dials share Lorca's own font, along with polished indices that are filled with Super-LumiNova, as are the large dauphine hands.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6184b649-6670-4e34-9550-a81657366173"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside the Model No. 2 is the manual-wind Sellita 510M. It's a cam-operated chronograph caliber with 63-hour power reserve beating at 4 Hz. Lorca has opted for what Sellita calls its special or <i>elaboré</i> standard, meaning it's regulated a bit more tightly than its standard (special is the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-accurate-should-your-mechanical-watch-be/" target=\"_blank\">second of four grades</a> Sellita offers).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Lorca Model No. 2 opens for pre-order on October 1 at 10 AM ET. While it'll join Lorca's permanent collection, the first production run, to be delivered in May 2025, is limited to 300 units.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1732a2ca-1667-48df-9923-5b6d7d3d4124"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Lorca Model No. 2 is a strong follow-up effort from the young brand. While the Model No. 1 gave us something we hadn't really seen at the time – a 36mm GMT – the Model No. 2 joins a small but growing list of mid-century-styled mechanical chronographs with wearable proportions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As with the Model No. 1, there are a lot of elements at play, but it makes for a cohesive design. Nothing feels extraneous. It starts with the dial, adorned with just a cursive \"Lorca,\" and \"Model No. 2\" above the six o'clock subdial. The three subdials feel completely familiar for a chronograph, but the bezel is totally out there, especially for a chrono.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e92f5687-effa-435d-9437-e03435dcfc14","e83faaee-33b2-4c3d-afa1-663f5d293a94"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For that reason, the bezel is also the easiest thing to critique – or praise – about the Model No. 2. After all, it would've been easy enough to order up a polished bezel with a tachymeter scale and call it a day. So I applaud them for doing something different. That said: I kinda wish I knew what this watch would've looked like with that bezel? I'm sure the renders are out there somewhere and I'm sure it's less interesting than the final Model No. 2. I'd imagine that whether or not you like the Model No. 2 comes down, more or less, to where you stand on that textured bezel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Personally, I came to like it. After all, there are enough tachymeter scales, many from larger brands, for timing your laps or hard-boiled eggs or whatever else. A new brand like Lorca needs to do things differently, and this bezel sets it apart, both in concept and in execution. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["36920256-e986-4d61-a034-642184d72fb1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When I mention the competition I'm thinking of recent chronograph releases from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-furlan-marri-revolution-montanari-mechanical-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">Furlan Marri</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-oak-and-oscar-atwood-chronograph-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">Oak & Oscar</a>, and others. But the Lorca stands out by reaching 100 meters of water resistance, a spec I'm not sure we've seen in a chronograph this thin (please let me know if you can think of others).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And here, I appreciate Lorca's commitment to certain specs. It's not an abstract exercise in manifesting some mid-century design that never was, but also an effort to build a manual-wind mechanical chronograph fit for modern life, as much as that very string of words isn't a <i>prima facie</i> contradiction in terms.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For those who like it, I'm sure they'll enjoy swimming – and timing – laps with their new Lorca Model No. 2. I know I would.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ea9b3199-4934-4423-b9b0-5022109ae9e1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Lorca<br><strong>Model:</strong> Model No. 2 Chronograph<br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>Ref. 8501</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 37mm (38mm at bezel; 46mm lug-to-lug)<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 14.1mm (11.6mm case)<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> 316L stainless steel<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Satin black, silver sunray, or warm grey sunray with silver subdials<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Lume:</strong> BGW9 Super-LumiNova in indices and hands<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 100 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>316L stainless steel 9-row bracelet with double-push button clasp, tapers from 20mm to 16mm</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4f51c292-d552-416b-a93f-5e134ec5aec0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Sellita SW510M <br><strong>Functions:</strong> Chronograph<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 30mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 7mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 63 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Manual<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 4 h<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 23<br><strong>Additional Details: </strong>Soigine/elabore Sellita, rated to +/- 5 seconds per day</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $2,650<br><strong>Availability: </strong>Pre-order open October 1 at 10 AM ET<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>The first production run is limited to 300 pieces (to be delivered May 2025); the Model No. 2 will join Lorca's permanent collection</p>\n\n<p>For more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://lorcawatches.com//" target=\"_blank\">Lorca Watches</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of The Lorca Model No. 2 Chronograph","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"38d95517-83eb-45fd-8914-717143aa4f8b","container_id":13787,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/12ba1447-e508-4224-b137-97816745a9d8/DSC_5447.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"lorca model no. 2 chronograph","created_at":"2024-09-30T08:08:45.494-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-30T08:08:45.494-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/12ba1447-e508-4224-b137-97816745a9d8/DSC_5447.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-lorca-model-no-2-chronograph-live-pics","full_title":"Introducing: The Lorca Model No. 2 Chronograph (Live Pics)","tags":["lorca"]},{"id":13779,"slug":"the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-monoface-in-steel-now-back-with-a-smaller-case-live-pics","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Monoface In Steel – Now Back With A Smaller Case (Live Pics)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-09-26T05:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-24T13:00:15.643-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-27T07:48:28.005-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A traditional case size returns to the Reverso, along with a stunning steel Duoface Tourbillon. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":67356,"public_token":"fcb5a47bd53fa8b1cef301aa362f3903","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Jaeger-LeCoultre is introducing a trio of new Reversos, led by a new stainless steel Reverso Tribute Monoface. With nearly the same case size as the original 1931 Reverso, the new Monoface is a traditional addition to the Reverso collection. Alongside the two-hand Reverso Monoface, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also introduced a Duoface Tourbillon in stainless steel (very cool!) and Duoface Small Seconds in pink gold. While this Intro focuses on the new Tribute Monoface, the more complicated Reversos are also strong releases – the steel Duoface Tourbillon is nicely executed, so we'll also discuss that with some live photos. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fab6b584-1e73-4e12-b738-adf53ab2b267"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new Reverso Tribute Monoface is, in many ways, the Reverso I've wanted for a while. The stainless steel case measures 40 x 24.4mm and has a slim 7.6mm profile. This puts it within a couple of millimeters of the original 1931 Reverso in all dimensions (38 x 23mm). The vintage Reverso case is no match for the modern case though, which slides seamlessly and has actual water resistance – 30 meters on the new Monoface. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ef4fcd5b-5288-4618-9470-7bbfc3c04cec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's offered with a silver opaline or a sunray blue lacquer dial. The dial is clean and simple, as a Reverso should be, with sharp dauphine hour and minute hands, trapezoidal indices, and an outer rail minute track. The design is similar to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-jlc-reverso-small-seconds-takes-a-colorful-turn/" target=\"_blank\">last year's Reverso Small Seconds</a>, though the case is smaller. Each is powered by the long-standing Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 822, a manual-wind movement with a 42-hour power reserve that's been in the manufacturer's stable powering Reversos for about 30 years. The winding action from the crown remains crisp, smooth, and satisfying. Flip the dial over for your polo match, and you'll see the Reverso's blank, polished back, which is ready to be engraved. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The stainless steel Reverso Tribute Monoface is delivered on a folding clasp and calfskin leather saffiano strap that has a contrasting smooth finish around the lugs. Retail price is $8,900. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["12b30973-73c0-4d57-b331-ed29d781098d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Alongside the new stainless steel Reverso Tribute Monoface, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also introduced the Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon in stainless steel. It's a more modern (and <i>slightly</i> more accessible) take on the Tourbillon introduced in pink gold in 2023 and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-tourbillon-duoface-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">the platinum limited edition before that</a>. The 60-second flying tourbillon is visible through both sides of the dial. On the front side, it sits at 6 o'clock in an otherwise clean and contemporary sunray grey dial. But flip the dial over to see the second time zone, and you'll see a dial that puts more of Jaeger-LeCoultre's watchmaking and craft on display. The dial is partially open-worked to show off hand-beveled bridges and is decorated with Clous de Paris <i>guilloche</i> done by hand in Jaeger-LeCoultre's <i>Metiers Rares</i> atelier. </p>\n\n<p>For all that, it sits in a relatively compact case measuring 45.5 x 27.4mm and just 9.15mm thick. The Tourbillon Duoface is a beautiful display of traditional craft in an entirely modern package. It'll set you back $110,000. For comparison, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-reverso-tribute-duoface-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\">last year's pink gold Duoface Tourbillon</a> was released at $139,000. As a sign of the times, the platinum limited edition of 50 had a price of $123,000 back in 2018.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["84b2c371-47ab-48f1-ba56-a4b3d1ea6ffe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also introduced a pink gold Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds with a glossy blue dial and silver sunray dial with a 24-hour night-day display. The rich blue lacquer is particularly striking against the pink gold case. The Duoface is powered by JLC's caliber 854, displaying hours, minutes, and seconds on the front, as well as a second time zone and 24-hour indicator on the second dial. The second time zone is adjusted by a small slider inset in the top caseband, which is only visible when the Reverso case is being flipped. <i>Price: $25,500</i>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ef2b13ce-0040-4dc9-b06f-e419e9331f42"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is what I want from a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso on wrist. The new Reverso Tribute Monoface is slim, elegant, and wearable. I prefer the clean opaline dial that sits somewhere between white, silver, and nearly grey, depending on the light. The matte finish is almost boring but reminds me of vintage Reversos. The sunray blue dial is more contemporary and probably more interesting, but I've seen enough steel watches with blue dials for now, even if the rectangular Art Deco Reverso is decidedly different. While the Reverso is rectangular, it has a certain softness since there aren't many sharp edges to the case. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["72e02325-e262-4a0f-adde-6fcd49cdad64"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case might be too small for some, but there is still a range of larger Reversos in the catalog; for example, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/watches/reverso/reverso-tribute/reverso-tribute-small-seconds-q713842j/" target=\"\">Tribute Small Seconds</a> or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/watches/reverso/reverso-classic/reverso-classic-monoface-small-seconds-stainless-steel-q3858522/" target=\"\">Classic Small Seconds</a>. But for those who want a traditional Reverso size, we finally got it. I was able to spend some time with the new Monoface alongside a few vintage Reversos, and it wears essentially the same on wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Otherwise, the modern execution of the dial works. We could pine for more heritage inspiration as we saw in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-the-reverso-flipped-my-position-on-new-watches/" target=\"\">the Tribute to 1931</a>, but to me, this is what a modern Reverso should be. It's clean and contemporary – without leaning on the past too much. While the caliber 822 has been in use for about 30 years, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.watchprosite.com/jaeger-lecoultre/jaeger-lecoultre-cal-822/2.1419101.13015051//" target=\"\">sleuths have noticed</a> it's also been quietly updated over the years with modern expectations like a freesprung balance.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["33dfda69-b026-4b81-9f26-e9d9cc2263df"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Meanwhile, the stainless steel Duoface Tourbillon is aspirational stuff. It's complicated; it's beautiful, and it's everything that's made Jaeger-LeCoultre one of the best watchmakers at its scale, not just today but for the past century. I've been lucky to see a few beautiful tourbillons over the past few weeks – this Reverso, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-daniel-roth-tourbillon-rose-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Roth Tourbillon</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/DABeCEbtBuA//" target=\"_blank\">the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Tourbillon</a> (more to come on that one). Daniel Roth and Chopard L.U.C produce watches at a significantly smaller scale than Jaeger-LeCoultre, but this tourbillon illustrates how, even with its size, JLC continues to maintain handcraft that can come close to matching these manufacturers. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As for the price of the Tribute Monoface: $8,900. It's a big ask for a stainless steel watch with two hands, but not unreasonable – the Reverso is in a class all its own. Jaeger-LeCoultre is trying to position the Reverso as <i>more</i> than just that. The case is complicated (55 parts); the bridges of the cal. 822 are hand-beveled. These are details that JLC hopes set the Reverso apart from the potential competition. </p>\n\n<p>I was able to spend some hands-on time with each of these Reverso releases, so let us know if you'd like to see a full Hands-On review. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e1ee0d89-7e1c-480b-9e95-50dc5589f675","3e772041-c213-4d31-a565-575d5365f70a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Jaeger-LeCoultre <br><strong>Model:</strong> Reverso Tribute Monoface<br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>Q7168420, Q716848J</p>\n\n<p><strong>Dimensions: </strong>40.1 x 24.4mm <br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 7.56mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Stainless steel<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Opaline silver or blue sunray lacquer<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied non-luminous indices <br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 30 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Gold-tan or blue calfskin with contrasting smooth and Saffiano finishes and a folding clasp</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f6bf4da3-6762-42db-9248-e3232df2dd5c","5990fe09-3620-405e-8f08-d96025933e8a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["105ad5d2-0b6c-4e5a-b657-58e64d3dc6f6","b6e530fd-ed4c-4227-8837-19e2eb10ee37"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber. 822<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours and minutes<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 20.2mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 2.94mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 42 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Manual<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 21,600 beats per hour<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 19<br><strong>Chronometer Certified:</strong> No</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price: </strong>$8,900 </p>\n\n<p><i>For more, check out </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/watches/reverso/" target=\"_blank\"><i>the Reverso collection on Jaeger-LeCoultre's website</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of New Midsize Steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"0445be00-5b42-4c18-94f5-cb209c55db2e","container_id":13779,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e2e367f6-d080-4545-883f-b9466c41aa40/DSC_6299.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"jaeger-lecoultre reverso monoface stainless steel","created_at":"2024-09-24T13:00:15.709-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-25T19:18:24.325-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e2e367f6-d080-4545-883f-b9466c41aa40/DSC_6299.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-monoface-in-steel-now-back-with-a-smaller-case-live-pics","full_title":"Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Monoface In Steel – Now Back With A Smaller Case (Live Pics)","tags":["jaeger-lecoultre","reverso","introducing","jaeger-lecoultre-reverso","new-watches-2024"]},{"id":13778,"slug":"inside-sellita-and-albishorn-with-sebastien-chaulmontet","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Inside Sellita And Albishorn With Sébastien Chaulmontet","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-09-25T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-23T17:57:12.934-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-25T14:51:10.765-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>The movement maker's Director of Innovation and Marketing discusses collecting chronographs, Sellita, and what the Swiss watch industry can do better. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":16808,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. 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It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Hodinkee Radio</i></a> feed<i>, </i>so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Apple Podcasts</i></a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\"><i>,</i></a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Stitcher</i></a><i>, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Spotify</i></a><i>, or </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\"><i>TuneIn</i></a><i>).</i></p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/98344cba-cb15-4bab-a650-7348cb6528d1?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22
Today, my guest is Sébastien Chaulmontet. Today, Sébastien is the Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita. His career in watches has also included stints with La Joux-Perret, Arnold & Son, and Angelus. But he started a collector, particularly of vintage chronographs – he even <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/chronographs-for-collectors-book-review-chaulmontet-pynson?srsltid=AfmBOoqwJzX6mFvb5qNBpmlbnGp6Ff9UQhiHEWTWvnOffC4BbFANXFUB\%22 target=\"_blank\">wrote a book about them</a> and is working on another. Besides his full-time job at Sellita, he has also just launched his own brand, Albishorn, to create small batches of what he calls \"imaginary vintage\" watches, which we talk about during our conversation. Albishorn's first release is the Maxigraph, a regatta timer in collaboration with Massena Lab. </p>\n\n<p>I've known about Sébastien for years, but only had the pleasure of meeting him last month in Geneva. He's as passionate and knowledgeable as they come, and I enjoyed our conversation – I hope you do, too. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"GRuvWfqReuk","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>1:46</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/chronographs-for-collectors-book-review-chaulmontet-pynson?srsltid=AfmBOoqwJzX6mFvb5qNBpmlbnGp6Ff9UQhiHEWTWvnOffC4BbFANXFUB\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Chronographs for Collectors</i></a></p>\n\n<p><strong>4:30</strong><i>: </i><br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/swatch-group-comco-analysis/" target=\"_blank\"><i>In-Depth: </i>Swatch Group Battles With COMCO Over ETA Movement Sales</a> (2020)</p>\n\n<p><strong>12:40</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-angelus-u10-tourbillon-lumiere/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>19:30</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/possible-tornado-hits-la-chaux-de-fonds-causing-significant-damage-to-the-area/" target=\"_blank\">Possible Tornado Hits La Chaux-de-Fonds, Causing Significant Damage To The Area</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>28:20</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sellita.ch/index.php/en/movements/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sellita movement catalog</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>45:20</strong>:<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://l.instagram.com/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.albishorn-watches.ch%2F&e=AT1YegLgr2sYnSVe8mIPAm6YB1jAJdKck7C_-Fvx54_i8tQ6B8bLBw88GPg1ec8-UWWceo1YQHF94s5h3SlhlbxGdqmFzM6Ic43g-Q\%22 target=\"_blank\">Albishorn Watches</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ac5f7970-2a2a-4092-a9c2-cbeebe3752e7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"An Interview With Sellita's Sebastien Chaulmontet","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. 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But the Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection continues to deliver well-executed, easy-wearing travel watches at an accessible price point. The newest Zulu Time 39 in titanium is no exception, hitting all of these attributes in a way that continues to make the broader Longines Spirit collection a standout.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9cfbcc79-3963-47a7-adf7-4846ae382d2a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last year, Longines introduced the shrunk-down Zulu Time 39 in stainless steel, following the larger 42mm Zulu Time. GMT James did his <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-longines-spirit-zulu-time-in-39mm/" target=\"_blank\">hands-on review</a>, calling it the \"complete travel package in a handsome design.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The latest Zulu Time 39 has a grade-5 titanium case measuring 39 x 13.2mm (46.7mm lug-to-lug) and has 100 meters of water resistance. It's nice to see Longines <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lets-lighten-up-and-talk-titanium/" target=\"_blank\">using grade-5 titanium</a>, even at a more accessible price. The case is mostly brushed, with polished bevels. It's delivered on a titanium bracelet. The dark grey anthracite dial features applied Arabic numerals with gilt surrounds and Super-LumiNova. The red tip of the GMT hand and printed \"Zulu Time\" in red give it a bit of color. The five stars still shine at six o'clock. Complain about it in the comments if you wish, but please, consider mercy for that poor horse!</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["462d5620-624f-4fc4-9cae-42555d0e0077"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ad162fc3-ebe2-47b9-b3bc-7dc2a733f9aa","1f790e2e-3818-445d-babf-88f92dcbd980"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The date window sits at six o'clock. Unlike last year's stainless-steel version, it uses gilt-colored print to match the dial – a subtle, but appreciated update.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bi-directional ceramic bezel insert is black, but is half polished and half micro-blasted. This makes it appear as two different colors, with the appearance of each half changing depending on the light and angle. It's a cool effect I didn't appreciate in the initial renders of the Zulu Time. The white numerals feel a bit mismatched against the dial's gilt accents, leaving the watch caught between its heritage inspiration and modern execution. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a33167bb-3a91-41ff-81f3-fa1270bc3f42"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I typically prefer modern design cues on titanium watches, but the titanium Zulu Time 39 made me reconsider this. See, sized to my wrist, the Longines Zulu Time 39 titanium weighs 96 grams – interestingly, the exact same as a vintage Rolex 1016 sized to the same wrist. The light feel of titanium almost evokes those vintage stainless-steel watches that can disappear on wrist. Modern stainless-steel watches are generally too heavy to match this easy-wearing vintage vibe.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8797ad25-0a6a-4a96-ae6a-d92020bd1e14"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Hand-wringing over the palette choices of the titanium Zulu Time aside – just as the stainless steel now comes in a range of options, I'd imagine the future holds the same for titanium.</p>\n\n<p>The titanium bracelet is nicely made and has both brushed and polished surfaces. It lacks any tool-free micro-adjust, only including the more traditional five-position micro-adjust in its fold-over clasp. With brands large and small increasingly offering tool-free micro-adjust, Longines could update this. The bracelet does include Longines' easy quick-release system so the bracelet can be removed without a tool. It also tapers nicely from 21mm lugs to 16mm at the clasp. The male end links on the bracelet also mean the lug-to-lug is effectively larger, but it still draped just fine around my 6.3 in. wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bc574080-20e3-46d0-91e2-adcb0a3ad570"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Like the rest of the Spirit Zulu Time collection, this version uses Longines' L844.4 automatic caliber. It's an ETA-based movement that's been improved and modified for Longines' use and has hacking, hand-winding, a quick-set date, and a local-jumping \"flyer\" GMT. Unscrew the crown, and quick-set the hour hand as you might a date display – it also manages the date as you cross midnight in either direction. The L844.4 also has a silicon balance spring and is COSC-certified. It's everything you'd expect from a modern Swiss mechanical movement. Longines was wise to use a closed caseback, adorned with a variety of engravings.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6041d080-7541-49c2-87b7-c2ee7ce548db"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After a certain <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://le.hodinkee.com/longines-zulu-time-for-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Longines Zulu Time limited edition</a>, it's perhaps no surprise that we now have a general production titanium GMT in 39mm. But, its execution and consideration of details makes it a worthy addition to the Spirit collection. The case proportions are balanced and wearable. I don't always prefer titanium watches to stainless steel, but I do for the Zulu Time – there's the possibility that a 39 x 13.5mm watch could feel tall or at least unbalanced, but lightweight titanium helps to alleviate this. While the bezel is all black, the varying finishes provide a subtle contrast – much more subtle than the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-gmt-master-ii/" target=\"_blank\">new grey-black Rolex GMT</a>, for example. I love this idea of playing with finishes instead of colors to create the appearance of a two-tone GMT bezel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a90f2fc5-88a8-42cb-9734-40838de96808"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Longines Zulu Time in titanium joins a crowded and competitive GMT field, thanks to the proliferation of affordable \"flyer\" GMT calibers. That said, it hits a sweet spot. Let's just cut right to it: at $4,275 on bracelet, the titanium Zulu Time is more affordable than the (stainless steel) <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-58-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT on bracelet</a> at $4,600. It's a matter of preference – and I'll reserve the right to change my mind – but I prefer the feel and look of the titanium Zulu Time 39. Neither of these watches is thick (the Black Bay 58 GMT is 12.8mm thick), but the titanium case is downright comfortable and more than makes up for the 0.7mm difference between the two.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a1941b00-4d93-4d65-b389-9ac8baebaa20"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are subtle, but noticeable differences in all of the GMT options around this price point. None are perfect, but that's also part of the fun. If you're thinking about buying one, it's important to consider which attributes are most important to you – between design, functionality, and price. Nowadays, there's a GMT out there for pretty much everyone. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>No matter your choice, the Longines titanium Time Zulu 39 is a solid, well-sized, Swiss made flyer (any other attributes?) GMT available for under $5,000. All this makes it a strong value statement, worthy of your consideration if you're in the market for a GMT.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Longines Zulu Time 39 has a grade 5 titanium case measuring 39 x 13.5mm (46.7mm lug-to-lug), water resistant to 100 meters. Delivered on a titanium bracelet tapering from 21mm to 16mm. Anthracite dial with Super-LumiNova in hands and numerals. Black ceramic bezel insert with contrasting polished and micr0-blasted surfaces. Longines automatic caliber L844.4 beats at 3.5 Hz with 72-hour power reserve. MSRP: $4,275. For more, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.longines.com/en-us/p/watch-longines-spirit-l3-802-1-53-6?srsltid=AfmBOopX8GKINR2J2hI127qygvY_pQiqYbUYbgZHPuDkj1tueeti2Q28\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>visit the product page on Longines.com</i></a><i>. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands On Review Of The Longine Zulu Time 39 Titanium","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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For Berneron, it started with a simple idea: A movement can achieve more efficient technical performance if you're willing to abandon the traditional round case shape. This starts by allowing for a larger barrel, making for a more effective use of space.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dcc943fa-8ef6-45b5-a8f6-3f0ab02170da"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One year since we introduced Berneron (and later had him on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-conversation-with-sylvain-berneron/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a>), he has now delivered the first set of Mirage watches to collectors, while also introducing a smaller second-generation Mirage with a new caliber and stone dials. We were able to see working versions of the first-gen Mirage (the Mirage 38, as its case measures 38mm) and prototypes of the stone dial Mirage 34. Both deliver on Berneron's promise, blending design and mechanics in a way few watches have.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["12596128-ca6d-46c5-a7c7-72d6ecfce7b8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Mirage 38 is the purest distillation of Berneron's original idea. It takes inspiration from classic dress watches that display technical excellence – three-handers from Patek Philippe, Breguet, and Lange – and combines this with design inspiration from Cartier, Gilbert Albert, and others. Those traditional, round dress watches can feel a bit stiff, while shaped pieces typically sacrifice technical performance in favor of aesthetics. Those old Cartier Crashes had tiny movements designed for ladies cocktail watches, for example.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f9d0b1a2-df3e-4a62-9501-f90f9b0f6347","98ce509e-337c-4a48-989d-2b9c64527e33"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the asymmetrical design immediately grabs your attention, the story for Berneron starts with the manual-wind caliber 233, both in concept and in execution. Berneron originally dreamt up a movement with a large barrel and balance wheel, with an irregular shape accommodating these technical components. The caliber 233 is thin, too – just 2.33mm, as indicated by its name.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is where Berneron became uncompromising. The Mirage is constructed entirely of gold: case, dial, spring bars, and the movement's main plate and bridges. The caliber 233 features <i>guilloché</i> and <i>anglage</i> on the bridges, as well as a variety of other finishes throughout. Even the curves of the bridges match the asymmetrical shape of the movement. While Sylvain Berneron is not a watchmaker, his goal was to display some of the best technical watchmaking and finishing in Neuchâtel, developing the movement in partnership with Le Cercle des Horlogers. The Mirage also has a direct small seconds, and Berneron flipped the typical order of the hand stack, putting the shorter hour hand on top. This allows for a sloped crystal that makes the Mirage's profile thinner.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The First: Berneron Mirage 38"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b96c8e85-bf9a-449e-a7f1-e88b02bc4f51"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Mirage 38's gold case shape follows from the asymmetrical movement. It measures 34 x 38mm (42mm lug-to-lug) and 7mm thick. It wears like a round 38mm watch, but stretches and pinches in ways that feel more ergonomic than a familiar round shape. The organic curves seem to match the natural contours of the wrist, wrist bone and all. This is also thanks to the thin case measuring just 7mm, with short, gently curving lugs.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The sector-style dial has alternating polished and brushed surfaces. It's vintage-inspired, but the numerals are modern, designed by Berneron specifically for the Mirage. This gives the Mirage a contemporary, even slightly sporty look.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The swirling dial matches the shape of the case and makes it feel like the Mirage is in motion. It's Dr. Seuss. It's Salvador Dali, especially his<i> Persistence of Memory</i>. It's the Cartier Crash. It's the best <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6200189/" target=\"_blank\">sector-dial Patek Calatravas</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2f878018-f268-4205-bcee-0db4a9e4f8ae"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Mirage deconstructs the very idea of a modern watch. It's playful but also deeply serious. It throws aside the traditional codes of watchmaking, but is also deferential to that same history. It reminds of the cliché that \"to break the rules, you must first master them.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Often, we struggle with the question, \"what's the purpose of a mechanical wristwatch in the 21st century?\" We find the time with a glance at a screen, any screen. But if watches completely toss aside their original reason for being, they become mere jewelry. Decoration. Ornamentation. Which is fine, but celebrating the generations of craftsmanship that were dedicated to keeping mechanical time accurately is what can elevate watches into <i>something more</i>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Mirage rejects the conventional notion of what a watch <i>should be</i> so that it can rebuild from first principles.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A modern watch isn't for timekeeping, but the Mirage's story starts from the inside and moves outward, understanding that asymmetry makes for a more technically efficient caliber. Only after reconsidering function does the Mirage let itself consider form.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["8bbb42b5-df1c-47d4-85be-c37999803d40"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is what sets the Mirage apart because this is what sets watchmaking apart. Free from the need to truly consider function, watches today are thought of as jewelry more than ever. A luxury. But if consideration of their original function is completely tossed aside, they're not watches at all. Design for its own sake can be beautiful, but it's not watchmaking.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's often said that the best watches today are art, but that's not quite true. Art has no function. Watches always have, and always will, no matter how incidental their timekeeping might feel to our modern lives. Berneron and the Mirage understand this and have taken it as a first principle, turning it into something beautiful.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Those curved gold hands, which seem to have fallen out of a Dr. Seuss short story, remind us of the time. But that's hardly the point of the Mirage. Machines can't even polish those curves, so they're finished by hand. But that's hardly the point. The Berneron Mirage shows that yes, by challenging convention, you can create something beautiful.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Berneron is producing 24 pieces per year of the Mirage 38 for the next decade: 12 Sienna (yellow gold) and 12 Prussian Blue (white gold). I prefer the warmth and almost vintage feel of the Sienna's matching gold case and dial, but the Prussian Blue is its modern counterpoint.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Prices for the Berneron subscription (now delivered) were CHF 44,000, with prices steadily increasing for each standard delivery window after that until they reach CHF 55,000. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Mirage 34, Smaller And Stone Dials"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["375d1ede-7095-4e45-ba11-5bac70046fc2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Just as Berneron is delivering the first batch of Mirage 38s to clients, he has also introduced the Mirage 34, powered by the new caliber 215 (2.15mm thick). What the Mirage 38 started in deconstructing the idea of a watch, the Mirage 34 begins to take to its logical conclusion. Gone is the sector dial or any pretense that one might want to tell the exact time. In its place are Tiger's Eye or Lapis Lazuli stone dials with hand-carved subdials. The white or yellow gold case measures 30 x 34 x 7mm. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["68da469b-4f3a-4df3-8154-8b4695774bd3","6c81328c-6dd9-487c-b89d-3c9f865a115c"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To shrink the movement down, some technical compromises were made. The balance wheel is no longer free-sprung. But Berneron says he's using literally the smallest wheel in production. If it were possible to make a free-sprung wheel at this size, he'd gladly use it. The caliber 215 also doesn't flip the hand stack because the additional gearing would've made the movement too thick. But, the Mirage 34 is made slimmer because the sub-seconds hand is sunk into the carved subdial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But the Mirage 34 doesn't compromise on performance. The efficiencies realized by the asymmetrical shape mean it maintains a large barrel and 72-hour power reserve. The caliber 215 beats at 3.5 Hz, slightly faster than the caliber 233's 3 Hz.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1c7da4c8-efdf-4200-bdf3-fb387bde53fb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the Mirage 38 balances design with technique, the Mirage 34 is more deliberately about design. The yellow gold features a Tiger's Eye stone dial, while the white gold's dial is Lapis Lazuli. Each dial measures just 1.3mm thick. Berneron has found artisans that are able to hand carve a sunken subdial into the stone dial. This hand technique gives the subdial a textured effect, providing contrast against the rest of the stone. According to Berneron, the failure rate is roughly 80 percent, meaning four of every five dials are scrapped because of the difficulty of hand engraving.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b788c17d-a761-4031-a04f-bbb7fd30f50e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While smaller, I preferred the Mirage 34 on my wrist. The colorful stone dial also makes it feel larger. While the swirling sector dial makes the Mirage 38 seem perpetually in motion, here it's the stone dials that come alive.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Tiger's Eye is pure '70s – shag carpets, wood paneling, pairs well with wide lapels. The white gold with Lapis Lazuli sourced from Afghanistan is its modern foil. As with the Mirage 38, I prefer the unapologetically nostalgic glow of the Tiger's Eye, though the Lapis Lazuli is more wearable by modern standards.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["77a33d1d-ddfc-499b-8354-f05c2aa9fc26"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Berneron will deliver 48 Mirage 34 examples per year, 24 of each color. Both the Mirage 38 and Mirage 34 are paired with matching grained Barenia leather straps. Berneron has also begun to lay out his plans for the brand. As he told us on Hodinkee Radio, he plans to introduce a new model next year, a round calendar watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4ddcbcc3-c28e-420b-b32e-8faa6c494342"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Few watches deconstruct the idea of a watch and challenge convention like the Mirage. When we spoke a year ago, Sylvain Berneron said the Mirage will feel \"almost like an illusion.\" Now that it's fully realized, it makes a very real statement about what watchmaking can be, even today.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["53084e04-087a-4e47-902a-42fbecb4a263"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more, visit </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.berneron.ch//" target=\"_blank\"><i>Berneron.ch</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands On Review Of The Berneron Mirage Watch","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"977e34a6-1ff5-4214-bac4-f698d0038c68","container_id":13754,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/db3becdc-7654-4c4f-adad-af4dd4ee3fa9/20240831_Berneron_002.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"berneron mirage stone dial","created_at":"2024-09-15T19:50:48.769-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-15T19:50:56.801-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/db3becdc-7654-4c4f-adad-af4dd4ee3fa9/20240831_Berneron_002.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-berneron-mirage-34mm-realizes-its-creators-uncompromising-vision","full_title":"Hands-On: The Berneron Mirage Realizes Its Creator's Uncompromising Vision","tags":["independent-watches","hands-on","berneron"]},{"id":13760,"slug":"hamilton-tudor-tiffany-watchmaking","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"New Watches From Hamilton, Tudor, And More; Talking Tiffany & Co.'s Untapped Watchmaking Potential","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-09-18T13:05:19.455-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-18T02:18:33.360-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-18T13:05:19.471-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Plus, a Collecting Advice for a world-traveling free diver. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":18766,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After a short summer break, we're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Hodinkee Radio</i></a> feed<i>, </i>so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Apple Podcasts</i></a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\"><i>,</i></a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Stitcher</i></a><i>, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Spotify</i></a><i>, or </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\"><i>TuneIn</i></a><i>).</i></p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/74870f6f-e869-4344-a5bf-d54895feca9c?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22
We're back in the swing of things after an end-of-summer break from Hodinkee Radio. This week, James, and Malaika join the show. We discuss some of our favorite recent releases from Zenith, Tudor, Hamilton, Chanel, and more. Then, we get into Malaika's recent in-depth article on Tiffany & Co.'s \"untapped watchmaking potential.\" We explore the American retailer's long relationship with watches and watchmaking, and discuss the potential for revamping its watches in the wake of its 2021 acquisition by LVMH. Then, we have a Collecting Advice from a world-traveling free diver looking for a watch. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio – we have some exciting guests lined up for the fall, so stay dialed into this feed. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"E-cgmY7fmas","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>8:30</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://pressroom.zenith-watches.com/2024/08/26/the-wait-is-over//" target=\"_blank\">Zenith ladder bracelet for the Chronomaster Revival Safari and Shadow</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>10:30</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/11/zenith-chronomaster-revival-dubai-watch-club.html/" target=\"_blank\">The Dubai Watch Club Zenith El Primero A384</a> (SJX)</p>\n\n<p><strong>11:15</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.zenith-watches.com/fr_fr/product/chronomaster-revival-safari-97-t384-400-57-c856/" target=\"_blank\">Zenith Chronomaster Revival Safari</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>13:04</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chanel-made-a-watch-with-headphones/" target=\"_blank\">Just Because: Chanel Made A Watch With Headphones</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>18:20</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-hamilton-khaki-field-quartz/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>19:00</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-tudor-black-bay-chrono-blue-boutique-edition/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 'Blue' Boutique Edition</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>20:08</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-week-on-the-wrist-the-tudor-heritage-chrono-blue/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: Tudor Black Bay Heritage Chrono Blue</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>23:16</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-only-watch-2023/" target=\"_blank\">Gold Tudor Prince Chronograph for Only Watch</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>25:25</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-daniel-roth-tourbillon-rose-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>27:30</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tiffany-and-cos-untapped-watchmaking-potential/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: Tiffany & Co.'s Untapped Watchmaking Potential</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>31:45</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/Tiffany-CT60/" target=\"_blank\">The Tiffany & Co. CT60 Collection</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>42:00</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-marathon-navigator-now-with-a-steel-case/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Marathon Navigator – Now With A Steel Case!</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>42:58</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-200t/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200T</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>43:48</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/766516/" target=\"_blank\">Garmin Descent G1</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>44:26</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.scurfawatches.com/categories/watches/diver-one-stainless-steel//" target=\"_blank\">Scurfa Diver One</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>45:10</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.benrus.com/products/type-i-c-original-military-dive-watch?srsltid=AfmBOoqVDVjMd61t57k9e5do9WWiM4qoXt76ip70RNHVkl8yLrfOmGVl\%22 target=\"_blank\">Benrus Type 1-C</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>45:50</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://halioswatches.com/products/sfiv/" target=\"_blank\">Halios Seaforth IV</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>46:45</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-hydroconquest-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Longines Hydroconquest GMT</a></p>\n\n<p><strong>47:40</strong>: <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-seiko-prospex-spb451-and-spb453/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB453</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Editors Discuss Their Favorite Watches September 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"cbcbb9af-0edb-413a-b6aa-342851ba7ccc","container_id":13760,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/af039ab8-caca-460a-9025-ced7e7a536a5/H-Radio-Article-Hero-026.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"A street shot of signage outside a Tiffany & Co. Storefront with the Hodinkee Radio graphic underneath","created_at":"2024-09-18T02:18:33.425-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-18T10:35:56.144-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/af039ab8-caca-460a-9025-ced7e7a536a5/H-Radio-Article-Hero-026.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hamilton-tudor-tiffany-watchmaking","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: New Watches From Hamilton, Tudor, And More; Talking Tiffany & Co.'s Untapped Watchmaking Potential","tags":["tiffany&co","hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13710,"slug":"hands-on-daniel-roth-tourbillon-rose-gold","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-09-13T15:00:16.337-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-08T12:53:41.818-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-13T15:01:43.516-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>An impressively executed follow-up from Daniel Roth and La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":26106,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first thing that hits you about the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold is the black polish. Flip over the watch to view the caliber DR001 through the sapphire caseback – an evolution from the Souscription's closed caseback – and you'll see a curved bridge with perfectly executed black polish contrasted against the Côtes de Geneve on the larger bridges.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When I wrote our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-daniel-roth-tourbillon-in-rose-gold/" target=\"_blank\">intro</a> for the new Tourbillon Rose Gold a couple of weeks ago, I didn't appreciate the level of finishing. It's hard to with just a few renders. But in person, the execution of the new Tourbillon is immediately apparent.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e7fe89f8-ebf7-4ed2-9d02-10b4072276b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The same feeling carries through to the case, dial, and every single component that goes into the Tourbillon. There are few watches I've experienced that are so far afield from my (admittedly pretty boring) taste but also so obviously preeminent displays of watchmaking and craft. No doubt, the unwavering commitment to the \"Ellipsocurvex\" case and general old-man aesthetic is part of the appeal for Daniel Roth collectors, but it's certainly an acquired taste.</p>\n\n<p>But anyone can appreciate the craft and watchmaking on display in the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold and its caliber DR001.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e2e1b6bc-fc88-4508-903e-a7b3912e91f5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the rose gold Tourbillon isn't terribly different from last year's Souscription, it is a clear evolution. The 5N case and dial are immediately warmer. Experiencing both side by side, the rose gold Tourbillon stands apart for me. The gold dial is made by Kari Voutilainen's Comblemine, and the linear guilloché is finely executed. Even those fine borders of the Tourbillon's signature \"mustache\" are now guilloché, executed by hand. This is particularly difficult given the irregular curve of the dial's facial hair. (By the way, I've seen <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://chrisjameshall.substack.com/p/the-fourth-wheel-issue-99/" target=\"\">journalist Chris Hall</a> mention this, but it feels like perhaps the Swiss watch industry should start to protect use of the word \"guilloché,\" reserving it for only dials that are truly made in the traditional method by hand operating a lathe. The term \"guilloché\" is overused today and seems to cause some confusion among customers).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4193e960-3a72-409f-b5c8-200a7f999ef3","3ba22cbc-b61b-4b94-a6fa-45d52623f76e"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In fact, while the rose gold Tourbillon is not a strictly limited edition like the Souscription, Daniel Roth says it's limited to 50 pieces per year by production, explaining that the guilloché work, in particular, is a limiting factor.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most important evolution from the Souscription is the sapphire caseback, which now puts the DR001 on full display. The Souscription had a closed caseback in keeping with the original 1990s Tourbillon Souscription, and now this next generation has an open caseback, just as follow-on references of the '90s Tourbillons did.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["70d83852-82f2-4ff7-98d2-822766a32b7f","1ed3d36c-998c-48d4-b032-94992481ae80"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The caliber DR001 is the same manual-wind movement as the Souscription with a one-minute tourbillon spinning on the dial side. The movement is developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and features two large bridges with finely executed <i>Côtes de Geneve</i>. There are other now-common flourishes of fine watchmaking as well – for example, gold chatons and that curved bridge showing off well-executed black polish.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8a143ded-8145-48bb-8344-9dc8b1df8485"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It matches the finishing and execution that modern collectors have come to expect from high-end independents. This is perhaps to be expected with the backing of Louis Vuitton – along with the price tag of CHF 155,000 – but this doesn't make the watchmaking on display any less impressive. This finishing continues on the front side with the one-minute tourbillon spinning at six o'clock.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The rose gold case measures 38.6 x 35.5mm (9.2mm) thick. This makes it a good 2mm thinner than the original 1990s tourbillons, possible thanks to the DR001 and a detail I didn't fully appreciate in photos. The case is also more balanced, with the middle caseband perfectly splitting the top and bottom half of the case. Combined with the rounded lugs that also slope slightly downward, this makes for a noticeably better wearing experience compared to the originals (Daniel Roth had some of its archive pieces on display alongside the new Tourbillons to compare).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6843215e-0f69-47a3-8c27-ff9c91caa519"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the Souscription and now the rose gold Tourbillon, Daniel Roth, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, along with watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas, have illustrated their ability to recreate an original Daniel Roth design, but incrementally better in nearly all respects. Even with all the resources in the world, it's a commendable achievement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That said, I'm still waiting to see what the revived Daniel Roth can create that's genuinely new. The brand hinted at some never-released watches designed by the watchmaker Roth that will provide inspiration for its future releases, which is promising. I'd also expect that these future plans will offer slightly more accessible options for those seeking the distinct Daniel Roth aesthetic.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8bece867-5966-483a-9ca8-c00b0eebd359"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For now though, the Tourbillon Rose Gold puts the full capabilities of Daniel Roth and La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton on display. It's beautiful, and one of the more impressive high-end watches I've experienced this year.</p>\n\n<p>For more, visit Daniel Roth <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.danielroth.com//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold measures 38.6 x 35.5mm (9.2mm thick), 30 meters water resistance. 5N rose gold case and dial. The manual-wind caliber DR001 has an 80-hour power reserve, beats at 3 Hz, and features a one-minute tourbillon. Designed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Delivered on a calfskin strap with pin buckle. Not a limited edition, but Daniel Roth says production is limited to 50 pieces per year. Price: CHF 155,000.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"07e6ee0b-daad-4a3f-b815-1cfa1365c853","container_id":13710,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/73890d00-5457-468c-b6a2-f86185988881/20240831_DanielRothTourbillon_004.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"daniel roth rose gold tourbillon 2024","created_at":"2024-09-08T12:53:41.894-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-08T12:53:41.894-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/73890d00-5457-468c-b6a2-f86185988881/20240831_DanielRothTourbillon_004.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-daniel-roth-tourbillon-rose-gold","full_title":"Hands-On: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold","tags":["hands-on","daniel-roth","new-watches-2024"]}]}">
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Hands-OnThe Albishorn Type 10 Classic – An Imaginary Vintage Pilot's Watch That Finally Exists
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