Editor — Benjamin Clymer

August 07, 2025

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our own dynamic iOS app</a>, we've built <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-community-features/">our own community system</a> (both designed and developed completely in-house by us in New York City), we've continued to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/joe-thompson-joins-hodinkee-as-editor-at-large/" target=\"_blank\">hire the best</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jon-bues-joins-hodinkee-as-senior-editor/" target=\"_blank\">editors in the world</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-magazine-volume-1-introducing/">we've launched the print product that we think great watches deserve</a>. At this point, HODINKEE is as much a tech company as it is a media company as it is a commerce company. Let's talk a bit about where we began though before we go into where we're heading.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Editorial First And Foremost"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["93915219-a66b-4b27-9d4e-f136fc50cf44"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"HODINKEE began as a personal adventure into watchmaking. It has expanded to be among the finest platforms for watch knowledge – both old and new – in the world. And that has been purposeful. We made a decision early on to invest in high quality video. Will Holloway, who I met in the halls of Columbia Journalism School, was our second employee and has grown to become a force in the creative editorial vision of HODINKEE. He's the man behind all of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/packages/talking-watches/" target=\"_blank\">Talking Watches</a>, and now the director of content for the site. His team now includes a brilliant young producer who joined us this year from the Atlantic, Greyson Korhonen. Stephen Pulvirent, our Managing Editor, was actually our first hire, and after two years reporting for Bloomberg and Surface, he rejoined us last year. His impact on this company is felt by the minute and I can say with certainty that we wouldn't be anywhere as far as we are without him. In 2015, we added Cara Barrett from Sotheby's, Nick Manousos as our Technical Editor, and shortly thereafter, the one-and-only Jack Forster joined the team. Jack is our Editor-in-Chief, and, well, I don't need to say much more about him because he's a certifiable #legend. Since then, we brought on a stalwart of high-quality watch journalism in the United States, Jonathan Bues, as Senior Editor. Finally, just a few months ago, we added another horological hero to the ranks with the addition of Joe Thompson as Editor-At-Large. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2c61f3a9-0e4e-47ae-a169-d2e28ad8bfd0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"We have six full-time editors/writers plus two full-time digital producers on staff working out of our New York office. And this doesn't cover the dozen or so regular freelancers that include the likes of Jason Heaton, Justin Hast, Andrew Hildreth, John Mayer, Anders Modig, James Stacey, Jeff Stein, and more. If there is a more competent, varied, or skilled team of editors – in not just the watch space, but the entire luxury segment – I'd like to meet them.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["319e8119-a9f5-49c7-85e6-e6d3542fde98"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It was the strength of our team that led us to launch the very first issue of HODINKEE Magazine earlier this fall. Included in this inaugural issue was a detailed, behind-the-scenes story of what would become the most expensive wristwatch in the world – the Paul Newman Daytona. We have stories by chef Alton Brown, by musician John Mayer and Patek Philippe's Thierry Stern, by Facebook's Matt Jacobson, by Basecamp's Jason Fried, and by legendary collector John Goldberger. The entire magazine was written and photographed by HODINKEE employees and long-term friends of the show. It is, we believe, the magazine that collectors of fine watches deserve, with attention paid to the details in every aspect of production, from the writing and photography to the binding and paper stock. It turns out our readers agreed.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"If it looks to you like our editorial endeavors are firing on all cylinders, you're right. And this decision, to double-down even further on producing unrivaled content, has been conscious. We know how much our editorial coverage means to you, and you can be sure that nothing will change. We will continue to write about things we like and ignore the rest, just as we always have. And those fantastic editors that you love so much will never be told to write (or not write) anything at all, just as it is today. In fact, we hope that the move we are announcing today will actually increase transparency about our relationships with watch brands and other players in the industry. You know who we work with, you know who we don't – it's up to you to decide what to read, but we've found that the vast majority of our readership simply loves the content that we produce. If you're a fan of great writing, great photography, and great videos, get ready for some special things coming your way very soon. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Why HODINKEE, Why Now"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c70a6899-737b-4022-82c0-974af1ee6db3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Launching <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com//" target=\"_blank\">the HODINKEE Shop</a> as one of the first authorized retailers online was a decision that I, frankly, never thought we would have the opportunity to make. For years, we've been propositioned by brands and retailers to become an affiliate of their online stores – the money was good, but we declined. We did so because we've always believed in doing things the right way, and until recently, we weren't sure we could deliver on something we would feel comfortable putting out there to the many thousands of watch lovers that now depend on HODINKEE.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Once the decision was made though, we sat around a table in our office and every single watch lover in our company was encouraged to take turns talking about the worst thing they'd seen in the watch buying process. Terms like \"stuffy,\" \"old,\" and \"slow\" were all mentioned. We expanded our sample size and started talking to readers at our events, and even buyers of our watches and accessories. They told us that buying a watch through some retailers felt like \"a race to who could discount the most.\" Also, the term \"luxury\" means something completely different today than it did even just a few years ago. Now, luxury to me means overnight delivery and the ability to purchase from a fast, well-designed, native iOS app. Champagne and caviar is fun the first time, and it still might get a certain type of buyer excited about a watch, but for me, and for many HODINKEE readers, we know everything about the product already, and we just want the experience to be as easy and painless as possible.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["30e6a9b8-b94e-4426-a2d7-23a5bee49d04"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"We were told that after reading HODINKEE, few watch salespeople could even hold a conversation with these customers about the latest releases. In most cases, people expressed frustration that they were buying a watch from someone who simply didn't care as much or know the first thing about what they were selling. It was just a job to them. It made me think of a line I once heard from a friend who was, at the time, the CEO of Tourneau. He told me: \"Ben, HODINKEE is the best thing to ever happen to us, and the worst. More young people care about watches than ever before, but because of you, they know more than our salespeople.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"HODINKEE is the best thing to ever happen to us, and the worst. More young people care about watches than ever before, but because of you, they know more than our salespeople.\"","source":"Jim Seuss, Former CEO of Tourneau"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, imagine if the same people that helped inform a new generation of watch lovers about what makes a great watch great tackled the retail world, with the same attention to detail, and the same focus on what is important to include and to exclude – just like what we've done for nine years on the editorial side. That is exactly what we've done with the new HODINKEE Shop.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What Makes This Different"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["a5c944a6-32be-46f8-9533-7789ec63d96a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, I want to be clear about one thing – there are several great watch retailers out there. We've supported them from the beginning and we will continue to do so. We know what we represent is not for everyone, and there will likely be a certain percentage of the watch buying world that cares more about price than experience, and wants to see every single watch from a manufacturer on their wrist before making a final buying decision. That's not what you'll find in the new HODINKEE Shop, however, and we think that's a great thing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Only The Good Stuff"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e14231c7-2b20-4520-bf55-7f8083b97047","5af21b91-70a4-4b1d-9376-55b3b1d17e70"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Here's the thing about watches today: a lot of 'em kinda suck. And we know that. That's why over on the editorial side of HODINKEE, you just see stories about the good ones. Why waste your time (and our own) covering things that simply aren't worthy of coverage? You don't see Vogue featuring mediocre designers simply to pan their products. We've always been about celebrating the best and ignoring the rest. With our selection of modern watches, we've taken the same approach. We'll be working with eight great brands at launch, and from each we've taken only a small handful of models. These launch partners include <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/grand-seiko/" target=\"_blank\">Grand Seiko</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/longines/" target=\"_blank\">Longines</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/nomos-glashutte/" target=\"_blank\">NOMOS Glashütte</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/oris/" target=\"_blank\">Oris</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/ressence/" target=\"_blank\">Ressence</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/tag-heuer/" target=\"_blank\">TAG Heuer</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vacheron-constantin/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin</a>, and<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/zenith/" target=\"_blank\"> Zenith</a>. But again, you're not going to be seeing every watch from each of these brands' catalog on here, just the stuff that we really love and think will resonate with you. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c2acbf0f-15c7-43fc-9325-4ed2dac56df6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In other words, we've done the work for you. If you walk into any given retailer, you'll see dozens of references across myriad tastes and styles. On the HODINKEE Shop, you'll see stuff that we like. Nothing else. I can't think of another modern watch retailer that takes this approach and still delivers a wide range of products. And that's it – I don't want you to think we'll only be focusing on the very high-end. Yes, we'll have the incredible Historiques line from Vacheron Constantin and some amazing avante garde pieces from Ressence, but <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/tag-heuer/" target=\"_blank\">we'll also be carrying some seldom-seen TAG Heuer</a> and Zenith models. We'll have the very core offerings from what many watch lovers know is one of the best watches for the money in Grand Seiko, and we have some amazing vintage-inspired watches from Longines and Oris. Oh, and NOMOS – we have to have NOMOS, right?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e2c11002-39e4-4f64-a697-4f29e9c60d84"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"We're kicking off the new HODINKEE Shop with some classics that we know you'll love, and we've got a schedule of additions already planned to keep things fresh for you. They'll be rolling out over the coming weeks and months. And to stay in the loop (or is it loupe?) on these new additions, all you have to do <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/hodinkee/id1008305274?mt=8\%22 target=\"_blank\">is download the HODINKEE app</a>. No calling your local authorized dealer to find a salesperson that doesn't know the difference between <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/grand-seiko-sbgr253g?variant=877946765327\%22 target=\"_blank\">a SBGR253</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/grand-seiko-sbgr257g?variant=878088060943\%22 target=\"_blank\">a SBGR257</a>. No worrying if the guy online who says he has a particular watch really has the watch (and if he does, is it real and actually new).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This is 2017, and it's time for the watch world to start acting like it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"It's About Making Things Better, Really"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["4d63d8b9-25d2-41b6-8e7b-53e4d4723735"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Did you take a look at those photos up above? Pretty incredible, right? Yeah, we shot every single of of those, for all of our 100+ SKUs across varying dial colors and strap types. And we did it ourselves, in-house in New York City, with watch experts keeping a careful eye on every single bevel and every mirror-polished hand. If you look at other websites that sell watches, including some at the very high-end, the photography is miserable. And that's if you can even call it photography – most use manufacturer-supplied renderings. Others have retouched the soul out of the images so that they feel more like cartoons than watches. Instead, we're providing real warmth and depth with our images, so you get a great idea of what it is you'll be wearing each day. Of course, we took the same care with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/oris/products/oris-chronoris-date-strap?variant=874792452111\%22 target=\"_blank\">a $1,750 Oris</a> as we did with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/watches-new/products/vacheron-constantin-historiques-1955-cornes-de-vache-rose-gold?variant=878916042767\%22 target=\"_blank\">a $56,000 Vacheron chronograph</a>, because all watches should be celebrated.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["a5c6d10c-f4c4-4f41-8e2d-be25235fab2d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In addition to category-leading photography, each watch features an in-depth description written by an actual watch expert – someone who knows how to frame a piece in the proper context of watch buying. But this is us, so we'll tell you what it is and what it isn't, always. Each watch includes a wrist shot, and what's more, you can even use the HODINKEE iOS app to see the actual size of the watch next to your wrist. It's pretty great, and every single watch we sell will be available to view this way. Because while some retailers rely on consumers knowing as little about watches as possible, we want our customers to know as much as possible. When the package arrives the next day, there are no surprises (free expedited, insured shipping world-wide is included with every watch purchase, by the way).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Our team of designers and engineers has helped make the experience lighthearted as well. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/pages/watch-finder/" target=\"_blank\">You can take a short quiz</a>, answer a series of questions, and in seconds we will propose a selection of new watches that we think will suit you and your taste. But of course, you can filter timepieces using a range of criteria, including size, price and brand too.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Going the Extra Mile"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"This is where things get even better. As I said, we surveyed our entire team and dozens of our readers about those moments in watch buying that they simply couldn't believe were real. The moments where we stopped and thought to ourselves, \"it's a wonder that people still care about watches at all when you're treated this way.\" Any serious watch buyer has had moments like this. When you are dying to spend $5,000 on a new watch and a dealer won't even take down your name on the waitlist. Or after you just spent $20,000 on a watch, ask for it to be shipped somewhere, and the seller says, \"Sure, that'll be $250.\" Really? ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a6504ecd-d8b5-4d8a-b921-69786ad1c6c5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"With the HODINKEE Shop, it is our goal to make watch buying fun and easy. This way people will care about watches for years to come, because lets remember, and we are the first to admit it, nobody needs a watch anymore. So the entire experience should be fun, not frustrating. As such, every watch you see in the new HODINKEE Shop will ship same day and insured to anywhere in the world. In the United States that means overnight service and internationally we'll get the watch to you as quickly as a courier can move. Because who wants to wait? And who would have the gall to charge a shipping cost after someone just saved up their hard-earned money and decided to spend it with you on a watch? Not us.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"What's more, every single watch will come with a certified insurance appraisal. There's no need to pay an independent appraiser $250 for some paperwork you're just going to send to your insurance company – we've got you covered. Oh, and we're gonna go ahead and give you an additional year of warranty coverage, on us. That means you'll get the manufacturers warranty – usually two or three years depending on brand – plus an additional 12 months covered by HODINKEE. You deserve it and we're excited you're choosing to shop with us.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2bd4ae46-14f6-42d8-a2a0-7ea0025b6102"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As I mentioned above, HODINKEE has a team of incredible designers and developers in-house, so we've gone ahead and created not only a great shopping experience, but also a great ownership experience. You know how people always want to know if a watch still has its original paperwork? Well, with the HODINKEE Shop, we'll keep digital copies of all of that for you. This includes your manufacturer's warranty, your additional HODINKEE warranty, your insurance appraisal, and your sales receipt. You don't have to do a thing, they'll be stored in your HODINKEE Shop account automatically. If you ever need them, you have them in a digital file, ready to go, wherever you are.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What Else? Lots."},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Now to be clear, we know that some people will always enjoy seeing a watch in the metal before buying. That's cool – we know this won't be for everyone. But it's kinda better that way, because HODINKEE has never been about pleasing everyone – it's been about working to celebrate those that want to make things better and ignoring the rest. We have love and respect for so many watch companies and retailers out there, and we've been doing our part for the past nine years to make sure they survive. Launching the HODINKEE Shop as an authorized retailer is just the next step in this, encouraging everyone to be a little bit more thoughtful in how the industry treats its customers. We've seen that the watch world is not invincible, so let's make sure we push each other to make the whole industry more inviting, friendly, and enjoyable. I don't think anyone can argue with that.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com//" target=\"_blank\">Pay a visit to the new HODINKEE Shop right here</a>, and if you haven't yet, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/hodinkee/id1008305274?mt=8\%22 target=\"_blank\">download the HODINKEE iOS app here</a> to shop and browse the best of HODINKEE's content and commerce. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":45,"slug":"announcements","name":"Announcements","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2017-08-11T15:11:06.272-04:00","updated_at":"2021-01-04T14:04:40.788-05:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"16a438b2-503e-4b00-a0f2-1a6085e9e612","container_id":4949,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1510507402422-0jkqvmqnq5j-bb4b782647b3744e1790931c53875c5f/curation.jpg","width":6720,"height":4480,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-11-08T15:54:33.490-05:00","updated_at":"2017-11-12T12:35:03.552-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1510507402422-0jkqvmqnq5j-bb4b782647b3744e1790931c53875c5f/curation.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/new-hodinkee-shop-welcome","full_title":"Announcements: Say Hello To The New HODINKEE Shop (And What That Means)","tags":["announcements","nomos","tag-heuer","zenith","ressence","vacheron-constantin","oris","grand-seiko","the-hodinkee-shop"]},{"id":4852,"slug":"mclaren-f1-owners-watch-tag-heuer","column_slug":"found","title":"New-Old-Stock TAG Heuer 6000 McLaren F1 Owners Watch From The 1990s Available For £25 Million","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-10-17T09:53:15.262-04:00","created_at":"2017-10-16T17:39:36.225-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:08:45.622-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"And that includes a free McLaren F1 in like new condition!","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":102578,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"In some ways, this might just be the holy grail of TAG Heuer collecting. What you're looking at is a TAG Heuer 6000 Chronometer, one of only 64 in the world, dating to about 1993. The watch is made of titanium and is indeed a chronometer. It is currently available in the United Kingdom for a price of £25 Million.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["148947fe-88d1-4285-bc86-0ed43f02c6a7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"And if you do go ahead and purchase this new-old-stock 90s TAG Heuer, with it you will receive a complimentary vehicle, because the reason there are only 64 examples of this particular TAG is because they were issued exclusively to the owners of the McLaren F1. And this watch, and the car that comes with it, is an absolute time capsule.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5a0e4719-b20b-4db7-81fb-aa83d26935db","78c33505-7254-4653-98cf-5f32d8d4b465"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Almost since inception, the McLaren F1 has been an automotive legend. The lore only increased this past August when an example sold <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/23977/lot/73//" target=\"_blank\">for over $15 million the Pebble Beach Bonhams auction</a>. To see this type of appreciation (both financial and emotional) of such a young car is practically unheard of, and has caused <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://le-monde-edmond.com/mclaren-f1-vs-ferrari-250-gto//" target=\"_blank\">some to wonder if the F1 is poised to become the Ferrari 250 GTO of the modern age</a>. And this example? Yeah, it's dandelion yellow and brand spanking new. The clock shows 239 kilometers, and the entire car is still wrapped from delivery. Along with it comes every single document and accessory, and that, of course, include the TAG Heuer 6000 Chronometer with chassis number printed right onto the dial.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["94dfd2fd-8c85-4c3e-a448-5846f4732f87"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This car is a remarkable find, and when you come across something like this you know you're bound to pay for it. Here, the cost of the car (and the watch) is roughly $33 million. You can find <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.tomhartleyjnr.com/used/1997/classic/mclaren/1997-classic-mclaren-moira-swadlincote-for-sale-048060#\" target=\"_blank\">more on this incredible find from UK-based dealer Tom Hartley</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Oh, and if you're curious, yes, TAG Heuer did make a civilian version of this watch, where the chassis number was replaced with chronometer and depth ratings on the dial. Even that watch is fairly collectible and you can read more about it <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.calibre11.com/mclaren-f1-watch//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":6,"slug":"found","name":"Found","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.970-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:52:23.936-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"4cd99bcf-9daf-4a24-a38b-e5f6c4adc3be","container_id":4852,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1508189389427-8eb25czun1v-240cdbf128142d96c6bbfb91e8dfb522/mclaren_f1_117s.jpg","width":1600,"height":1200,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-10-16T17:39:36.251-04:00","updated_at":"2017-10-16T17:39:36.251-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1508189389427-8eb25czun1v-240cdbf128142d96c6bbfb91e8dfb522/mclaren_f1_117s.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mclaren-f1-owners-watch-tag-heuer","full_title":"Found: New-Old-Stock TAG Heuer 6000 McLaren F1 Owners Watch From The 1990s Available For £25 Million","tags":["automotive","cars","found"]},{"id":4847,"slug":"six-next-level-and-anonymous-watch-collectors-you-need-to-follow-on-instagram","column_slug":"weekend_reading","title":"Six Next-Level (And Anonymous) Watch Collectors You Need To Follow On Instagram","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-10-15T13:49:57.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-10-14T18:54:46.892-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:08:43.328-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Not all Instagram accounts are created equal.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":3380,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":48183,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"Ah, the oh-so-complicated relationship between the watch world and Instagram. It's not always pretty, but the platform and this world of watches go hand-in-hand. There is lots (and lots) of horological buffonery to see on IG, but that's not what this post is about. Instead, I want to highlight six accounts that I think are just awesome. The quality of the watches they post are well beyond what most of us see day to day. You won't see those commercial watches available in the boutiques (no matter how expensive), and or even just really nice vintage watches. These guys are next level, and so are the watches they post. I don’t know these people by anything but their Instagram handles, but they are all personal follows of mine, and after doing this for as long as I have and as intensely as I have, it's nice to know there are still some exciting collectors out there to discover. Here are six next level watch collectors to follow on Instagram.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"@Watchlover0601"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["958908c7-4117-41fd-9e17-f2ae714b6a5c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"So Mr. @WatchLover0601 is anything but ostentations. He's about the classics (or so it seems). And if you scroll through this account, you see some wonderfully mint examples of truly elegant time-only watches from Patek Philippe. Like, a lot of them. Actually, the account is pretty much an homage to the best of mid-century Patek (and mostly in gold to boot!) with the occasional Lange or Breguet dropped in. What's more? There's nary a Rolex in sight. Look at that <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BYzMJg_B4OC/?taken-by=watchlover0601\%22 target=\"_blank\">mint 1579</a>! And that <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BYtCv6ihs4e/?taken-by=watchlover0601\%22 target=\"_blank\">2526</a>! And <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BZYL2zABwEZ/?taken-by=watchlover0601\%22 target=\"_blank\">a three-handed 2597</a>!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Just awesome stuff, and an inspiring collection of watches that most collectors today would deem \"out of fashion.\" I disagree. These will never go out of style, and I encourage you to follow the fun <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/Watchlover0601//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"@Darknerimperator"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["27a158ea-9166-4de5-8dfd-826b5987f064"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This is vintage watches, so there must be an Italian on the list. Mr. \"Franco P.A.\", or @darknerimperator on Instagram, has an incredible collection of Rolexes. But I'm not talking Paul Newmans and Big Crowns (though it seems he has has a few of those too) but rather, super early and relatively unknown chronographs. See <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BWPvkSDDokV/?taken-by=darknerimperator\%22 target=\"_blank\">what I mean</a>? Or look at<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BX3UJ_Nj8Lq/?taken-by=darknerimperator\%22 target=\"_blank\"> this sector dial Bubbleback</a>! Sure, he's got the occasional crazy Daytona up there, but you can't blame him – he is Italian after all. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Yes, @darknerimperator is definitely worth a follow if you want to see some serious Rolex collecting from someone who has been doing it in Italy since 1985. Follow him <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/Darknerimperator//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"@Watcharts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ca863e6b-25a5-4f48-b32b-30adab0bd1fe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"@Watcharts is another account that I really enjoy, for its focus on very high quality watches that date to pre-1950. I'm talking a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BHJ4qGsB3wJ/?taken-by=watcharts\%22 target=\"_blank\">black pulsation dial 13Zn</a>, a<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BTVuYNuhl36/?taken-by=watcharts\%22 target=\"_blank\"> stunning pink gold JCK</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BVZN-JPBvnK/?taken-by=watcharts\%22 target=\"_blank\">a remarkable black dial sector 2508 Rolex</a> and more. We know he is a good patron of Phillips, and has an eye for the excellent (see <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BZUve1whW2f/?taken-by=watcharts\%22 target=\"_blank\">here</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BVqKxCDBJ-n/?taken-by=watcharts\%22 target=\"_blank\">here</a>). What's more, from time to time he'll drop a Hail Mary modern piece, like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BUx9YjwB2wQ/?taken-by=watcharts\%22 target=\"_blank\">this unique stainless steel repeater from Vacheron Constantin</a>!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"You don't see a lot of posts from @Watcharts but when you do, yeah, they're good. Follow along <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/watcharts//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"@Alpina_Biturbo"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9573fd96-a8a2-4828-bf84-325bd9ece7e3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If the guys above are all about that pre-1960s stuff, @Alpina_Biturbo does the 60s ... but in style. As you may know, I've got a thing for Daytonas, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymer/" target=\"_blank\">but not your average Daytonas.</a> I feel like me and this guy, we'd be buds. He's got a great double-Swiss underline 6239. He's got a black dial 6238 pre-Daytona. He's got a 6240, and a 6264, but NOT Paul Newman dials – which are way more interesting to me at this stage of the game. He's got a nice GMT, some nice Heuers, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BVqFuncFJ7q/?taken-by=alpina_biturbo\%22 target=\"_blank\">one hell of an elegant Rolex in gold</a>. He's even got a gold Daytona but not any gold Daytona – it's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BX9Yk46F0g3/?taken-by=alpina_biturbo\%22 target=\"_blank\">a three line guy</a>. It's nice to know there are people out there going deep on Daytonas that aren't so focused only on the PNs. Follow along <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/Alpina_Biturbo//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"@TimeaddictOfficial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3082828c-2ed4-40cb-a075-cd31dd3d0290"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the four guys above are (seemingly) about restraint, @TimeaddictOfficial, yeah, he goes for it. But I'm not talking about things like your basic Paul Newmans and 5970s here – I'm talking about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BUd_LBBAfbd/?taken-by=timeaddictofficial\%22 target=\"_blank\">five gold Paul Newmans in a row</a> including the biggest, baddest Daytona of them all – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BUIFqfIAUQU/?taken-by=timeaddictofficial\%22 target=\"_blank\">the Oyster PN in gold</a>. Yes, this man owns one of the three known Oyster PNs in gold – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gold-oyster-paul-newman-daytona-phillips-geneva/" target=\"_blank\">it's not the $3.7 million dollar watch from Phillips</a>, its the brother. You can also see some serious Patek firepower with things like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BaOWpiogi9R/?taken-by=timeaddictofficial\%22 target=\"_blank\">a first</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BS0J6r4ggTv/?taken-by=timeaddictofficial\%22 target=\"_blank\">second series 2499</a>. This Parisian goes hard, and you never know what other world-class watch might show up on his feed. Follow along <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/TimeaddictOfficial//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"@Vinontre"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f4f49db6-d48f-48ff-8170-f06bcaabaefd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Ah @Vinontre, one of my original anonymous Instagram loves. He's been around a while and his feed is relatively well known to collectors and dealers, but damn, it's so good, it has to be mentioned. This man has it all, from steel Lange 1's (and the only steel Double Split!) to a Tiffany signed 5070P (try and find another) to a unique Vacheron repeater in white gold, to the Pan-Am 6263. Frankly, nothing I can say here will convey how incredible @Vinontre's collection is, so all I can say is, follow him or miss out on what is likely one of the most impressive watch collections in the world. You can begin the journey <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/vinontre//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":32,"slug":"weekend_reading","name":"Weekend Reading","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-08-13T12:30:45.854-04:00","updated_at":"2021-01-04T14:55:07.903-05:00","status":"archived"},"hero_image":{"id":"d7f04c00-b28e-4bcc-975b-90ae63ff8488","container_id":4847,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1508089020973-bx7gsub6rxe-2f8b23592f02c19c495873f1d2b5b934/CollectorsToFollowIG.001.jpeg","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-10-14T18:54:46.908-04:00","updated_at":"2017-10-15T13:37:11.087-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1508089020973-bx7gsub6rxe-2f8b23592f02c19c495873f1d2b5b934/CollectorsToFollowIG.001.jpeg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/six-next-level-and-anonymous-watch-collectors-you-need-to-follow-on-instagram","full_title":"Weekend Reading: Six Next-Level (And Anonymous) Watch Collectors You Need To Follow On Instagram","tags":["recommended-reading"]},{"id":4812,"slug":"former-president-barack-obama-seen-wearing-a-rolex-cellini","column_slug":"watch_spotting","title":"Former President Barack Obama Seen Wearing A Rolex Cellini","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-10-01T07:41:06.993-04:00","created_at":"2017-10-01T07:13:09.122-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:08:31.497-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"This marks the first time Obama has been seen wearing a luxury mechanical watch – and while it's a Rolex, it's not your average Rolex. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":2307,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":197862,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"The wristwear of presidents has always fascinated us – and when I say \"us\" I mean basically all watch-loving brethren around the world – because we know why we wear a watch, but the concept of the most powerful man in the world taking the time out of his day to choose a particular wristwatch seems so fantastic. My old friend Eric Wind <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/personal-timepieces-every-united-states-president-ever/" target=\"_blank\">has been keeping a running list of all presidential timepieces here</a>, but this morning we have a new watch to add to the list, and it belongs to our most recent ex-president. Mr. Barack Obama, less than a year out of office, is now a Rolex man.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c2ed4ed3-dd58-4cfa-9aae-ab3cfb23650e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But we're not talking Submariner or Daytona here, or even pulling the ultimate presidential move in wearing a \"President\" (Day-Date). Nay, former President Obama is a Cellini man! He was spotted wearing the white gold time-only Rolex alongside Prince Harry at Toronto's Invictus games over the weekend, and my friend Jeff Stein has done some image grabbing to make sure we wouldn't miss it. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["b4729563-c23a-44e7-96ac-fe9ea761d669"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The watch itself is a Rolex Cellini reference 50509, a 39mm white gold wristwatch with white dial. It retails for $15,200, making it by far the most expensive watch Obama has been spotted wearing. In fact, as Jeff Stein has written, you could buy his entire five-watch collection of watches that he wore while President for about $800. We all knew that eventually Mr. Obama would be seen in something a bit more refined than his usual Jorg Gray – Jeff himself has long posited that he could tell Obama was definitely a watch guy – and his democratic predecessor Bill Clinton famously wore a Timex in office only to become well-known as a serious collector of Panerais, Zeniths, JLCs, and even Langes! ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"We will be sure this watch gets added to our running list of Presidential watches and if you'd like to read more about the Cellini 50509, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/cellini/m50509-0016.html/" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>.\n\n(<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.onthedash.com/docs/obama/spotted-rolex-cellini//" target=\"_blank\">Hat-tip to Jeff Stein</a>)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":22,"slug":"watch_spotting","name":"Watch Spotting","description":"Photo-first, event-driven articles that feature photography from news and wire agencies. 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The ensuing story (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-apple-watch-review/" target=\"_blank\">which you can read here</a>), is still one of the most read stories I've ever written on HODINKEE, and it is in fact the most discussed here and elsewhere. Three years on, the Apple Watch remains one of the most controversial and hotly-debated objects not only in watches – where some view it as a simple non-issue, and still others view it as pure evil taking the form of 42mm of silicon and aluminum – but also in consumer technology because it has, by Apple's admittedly skewed matrices (which will happen when you're the largest company in the history of the world), not been the overwhelming success to which the firm is accustomed.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"But if you think the Apple Watch has been a flop, you're kidding yourself. Even more so if you think it hasn't impacted the traditional watch space – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/forget-the-swiss-its-fossil-that-apple-is-threatening/" target=\"_blank\">read my esteemed colleague Joe Thompson's look at what Apple has done to the American-held, multi-billion-dollar company that is Fossil</a> if you don't believe me. Though luxury watch consumers are unlikely to admit it, the Apple Watch has changed things. Last week, we saw the introduction of the Apple Watch Series 3 and Series 3 Edition (housed completely in ceramic) – and today, after spending a full week with the latter, I'm here to give you my full thoughts.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What's New In Apple Watch Series 3?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7ecd7d8e-fb98-4c55-9b78-cda45dda9546"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The technical specs of Series 3 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-3-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">were published here on HODINKEE the minute they were announced</a>, but I'll summarize them quickly for you. Series 3 has a barometric altimeter that measures, for the first time, relative elevation. That's helpful for climbing stairs, skiing and snowboarding, hiking, etc. It has a new W2 wireless chip that was developed by, you guessed it, Apple, and offers better performance using less power. There is an entirely new processor within Series 3 that makes it up to 70% faster than Series 2. This is huge, and if you haven't tried an Apple Watch since the first generation, you'll be shocked by the differences in speed. Finally, the biggest change to Apple Watch Series 3 is that now, for the first time, it features cellular capabilities as a stand-alone device, meaning it can operate without your iPhone being within Bluetooth range. Doesn't sound like a big deal? I didn't think it was either, until I tried it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What's Changed Since 2014? A Lot, And Yet Nothing At All"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"In thinking about this new Apple Watch and what it might mean to Apple, the traditional watch industry, and to us as consumers, let's look back to 2014 to see how much has changed since then. We knew Apple Watch was coming, and yet it seemed to take the industry by surprise. The usual suspects were dismissive, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/apple/11088667/Apple-Watch-too-feminine-and-looks-like-it-was-designed-by-students-says-LVMH-executive.html/" target=\"_blank\">disrespectful even</a>. And then we saw many of them follow in Apple's footsteps by creating their own versions of a smartwatch. Fossil purchased Misfit for $260 million. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.theverge.com/2015/5/5/8557587/iwc-connect-smartwatch-activity-tracker/" target=\"_blank\">IWC announced (but never launched) a fitness tracker that could attach to your watch strap</a>. Montblanc released <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/montblanc-summit-smartwatch-live-pics-pricing-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">a smartwatch that costs around $1,000</a>. Louis Vuitton <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://us.louisvuitton.com/eng-us/stories/tambour-horizon#the-collection\" target=\"_blank\">released one for over $2,500</a>. Don't worry though, because that includes an LV-branded charging case. Now that is luxury.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4355ff08-8569-4c45-959c-2c999e6cf461"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"And then there's TAG Heuer, who was among the first, and certainly the most successful, at tackling Apple on their own terms by producing <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/my-thoughts-on-the-tag-heuer-connected-smartwatch-by-kevin-rose-video/" target=\"_blank\">the so-called Connected Watch at $1,500</a> that used technology found in several other watches that could be had for a literal fraction of the price TAG was asking. But you know what? It worked. And as it stands right now, the Connected Watch is in fact the number one selling watch by volume for TAG Heuer in the United States. Bet you wouldn't have guessed that. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d37ad16e-b45c-4955-8bcb-82f87bf8d2d0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It's shocking, I know, but <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/Jean-Claude-Biver-Talks-About-SmartWatch#&gid=1&pid=1\" target=\"_blank\">as LVMH honcho Jean-Claude Biver told us in March 2015</a>, his hope is that the connected watch will get people into watches in general, and with a price point of $1,500, it's actually the least expensive item in the TAG Heuer collection. Starting to make sense? \nSo again, the Swiss were dismissive of the Apple Watch because it's not even a watch, right? How could someone who appreciates a fine timepiece ever want a disposable digital device on their wrist?\nStill, we now have smartwatches from two of the three big luxury watch groups, and likely more to come. And that's before we actually talk about sales numbers of Apple versus the traditional players or the fact that all of theirs use what is the equivalent of an off-the-shelf caliber in Android OS while Apple's is, to borrow a term they'll understand, completely in-house. Ironic, really.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Blind Leading The Blind"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["491a6118-3da1-4223-b034-15aabc7cafbf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"One of the most amusing things about doing what I do for a living – writing about and working with mechanical watches – is the reaction that other watch guys expect me, or really any other reasonable watch person, to have about the Apple Watch. They think we should hate it. I don't hate the Apple Watch, nor should anyone else. If anything, the build quality versus price ratio on the Apple Watch is so embarrassing for the Swiss that I genuinely think it will push mechanical watchmakers to be better. And I actually think the Apple Watch has gotten people talking about watches again. Does the Apple watch give me the same emotional satisfaction as my Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, or Omega? Certainly not, but that's not the point. And I think we all know that – so the vitriol that spews from the souls of so many mechanical watch lovers is misguided, whether from an industry employee or from a consumer. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"Ask the average luxury watch consumer how big of an impact Apple has on their world and they might respond with little reaction. But look at more traditional fashion watches – those in the sub-$500 price range – and you'll see a different story. Fossil, a multi-billion-dollar company and maker of entry-level watches had a share price of over $83 the day the Apple watch was announced. It's now below $9. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/forget-the-swiss-its-fossil-that-apple-is-threatening#&gid=1&pid=8\" target=\"_blank\">Read the full story here</a>.","title":"Think Apple Hasn't Hit Traditional Watches? Ask Fossil.","images":["d64dab4b-9884-46de-885a-edd34b65cf38"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"These feelings towards the Apple Watch and smartwatches in general reminds me of a period in my life – a time not so long ago – when \"blog\" was a four letter word, literally and figuratively, to the entire country of Switzerland. The idea that the World Wide Web was a tool through which some could communicate about luxury products was simply unthinkable – and if anyone did, then for sure no one would ever make a purchasing decision based on what a blogger might say, because nobody with any real money would be online! It's this same attitude that caused the Swiss to lose during the Quartz Crisis. And to be clear, they did – 97% of watches on this planet today are quartz (hat-tip Joe Thompson!). \nWhen I see comments on our site and elsewhere saying that Apple will never dethrone Rolex as a watchmaker, I know they are surely right, when thinking about a timeless, mechanical watch that will last generations. But Apple has, by their own account, already sold more watches than Rolex by revenue in the past 12 months, and that means they've likely sold more in \"watches\" than pretty much everyone else, too. Yeah, it's a little silly to compare Apple to Rolex, but at the same time, how can you ignore a company that according to the widely read Ventrobel report, shipped 11.5 million smartwatches ($4.5 billion) in 2015. And that was 2015, before the Series 2 and well before the brand new Series 3 Watch. Oh, and about that slide at the top of the section and the one that ruffled more than a few feathers when Apple presented it during their keynote – Apple is comparing themselves to Rolex, Omega, and Cartier not in unit sales, where it surely would outpace these luxury players just by virtue of a far less expensive price point, but by revenue. That means more people are spending more money on Apple Watches than Rolex, Omega, or Cartier watches. Think about that. \nAgain, the Apple Watch isn't trying to eat the mechanical watch industry's lunch at all, and it certainly isn't looking to replace the mechanical watch as the emotional talisman that its become over the past few decades. The Apple Watch, whatever the series, is an entirely different thing. It's electronic, with a lifecycle that we've all come to know and expect from Apple and all other electronics companies. We replace our phones every few years, and the Apple Watch is a peripheral device to the phone, so it makes sense that we would see them roll out semi-regularly. Now, that's not to say some don't view the Apple Watch as direct competition to some watches, but like I said all the way back in 2014, high-end watches are safe, for now.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"\"Will anyone be trading in their Lange Double-Split for an Apple Watch? Certainly not. But, will the average Lange owner buy an Apple Watch, wear it on the weekends, and then, after a great workout with it, decide to leave it on next for a vacation to the beach, and then maybe on casual Friday to the office? It's possible. Apple products have a way of making someone not want to live without them...So while certainly not direct competition for haute horology watchmaking right now, the Apple Watch is absolutely competition for the real estate of the wrist, and years down the road, it could spell trouble for traditional watches even at a high level. When you realize you just don't need something anymore, there is little desire to buy another. At the lower end, I believe the Apple Watch is a serious threat to those less faithful wearers of analog watches.\"","source":"Benjamin Clymer, September 2014"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["0e6a5a13-e278-48e1-b4c8-58f5131b7e6a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It turns out I was right. Swiss exports for watches below $1,000 have been the hardest hit, and as we published on this very site yesterday, one of the largest producers of entry level fashion watches in the world, the Fossil Group, has taken a beating since the day the Apple Watch was introduced.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"One quote from Fossil CEO Kosta Kartsosis that I think is particularly poignant from this reporting is: \"the number one trend in fashion is technology.\" And I think that is true whether we're looking at $300 Fossils, Apple Watches, or something far more expensive. Granted, mechanical watches are something more like anti-technology, but we mustn't forget, the complicated pocket watch was the precursor to the smartwatch in many ways.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Something else to consider: The Casio G-Shock just celebrated its 100 millionth watch sold, making it, according to Casio, the most successful watch ever created. Guess how long the G-Shock has been around? Thirty-five years. And the Apple Watch sold 11.5 million units in 2015 alone, then demand reportedly dropped considerably in 2016 before climbing back 50% year-over-year into 2017. Looks like Casio won't be holding on to that title for long. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What It's Like To Attend An Apple Keynote"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"images":["1aa1af55-72d9-4d3c-9053-74dcf86b433c","3da6cf0c-8161-4d29-9d00-7c5dbc5b7e26","0ab43cc0-dff9-4895-9ef3-9683bdaa2720","d08d5805-37fd-4ab0-a9b8-d64c3fa6cc39","c2440eb3-2bc9-4860-8372-fddb9beb33b5","fcb07f4a-bd72-4738-84cd-ca29fc430f44","ffb9c33a-9757-4148-9077-9c6ca95748b5","f210f170-d725-4364-bda7-003a1fad16b2","33a4c6f4-2e38-469c-b208-515ab0b1a24e","db35eb53-a5e5-4e1f-9d3c-ddf793ef231e","8f666960-5f81-4951-ab5a-2eb86f095f59","4ef14543-9131-4a3c-8698-8cffa731bed2","f003cc09-8195-4451-8eb2-a402e854c0f3","9ccb612f-5b21-4abd-810c-b22077e7b1dd","8af39eb0-ba19-478a-9340-44102a598a23","ac66567a-7444-480c-a101-dbe253f5c30a","6391fa51-57fa-4d5c-b9b3-b90996504bdc","70800535-d608-4ff8-8a5c-f27b827560ca","50f79ca5-aa06-4be3-a1e4-ab973205f1d4","4ba53f9e-fa80-4ae6-aa00-42da1a9ea6b0","de1390b1-dda2-4298-8e40-df5cedd94d75","608d9e4a-ccad-4752-afef-2f03fda74ebd","76c077b5-8889-4726-b6d9-df31a52c0535","83b618ca-d0a0-4b4b-aa02-7ce714c523c9"]},"type":"Block::SlideshowImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Just because it's not something many get to do, I thought I'd break up this little review with a few behind-the-scenes photos from launch day in Cupertino. For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.recode.net/2017/9/13/16299086/apple-park-steve-jobs-theater-iphone-event-photos/" target=\"_blank\">check out Dan Frommer's story on Recode</a> (where approximately 10% of my head makes an appearance). Okay, now back to your regularly schedule program.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["daa5064c-c88c-4264-8e9d-1f21961a0da0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"On to the matter at hand, your very first hands-on review of the Apple Watch Series 3 Edition. \nFirst things first, I owned the Series 1 Apple Watch – and I really enjoyed it for about a month, using it mostly on the weekends and when going to the gym. I found the Bluetooth connectivity and processor simply to be too slow to use it regularly. If I turned it off for a few days and then turned it back on, it would take forever to update with all my emails, text messages, and calendar invitations. Shortly after I got the first Apple Watch, I bought an amazing waterproof Universal Compax and, well, the Apple Watch went into a drawer. When Series 2 came out, my colleague Jack Forster told me I had to give it a shot, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-2-review/" target=\"_blank\">saying it was really a whole new experience because of how much faster it was</a>. I tried it, it was faster, I enjoyed it a lot more than Series 1, but still, to the drawer it eventually went. I simply didn't feel that I needed it, and it is certainly the first time I could say that about an Apple product in my life.\nAfter a week with the Series 3, this has changed. At least for now.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Packaging, Fit, And Finish"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a02683d0-d0cb-4da4-8f08-42a4c9dcc109"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"First, let's be clear what we're looking at here. This is the Apple Watch Edition in 42mm – that means this is among the most expensive Apple Watches currently available. All Edition watches, in both sizes and in both colors, come cellular-enabled, though you can purchase a Series 3 without cell capabilities (and you can still purchase a Series 1, if you'd like to). This means the Edition is a luxury product to Apple, and as such, the packaging, fit, and finish of the whole thing is just exemplary.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b9d9f267-bad3-481e-a4a5-50abbf3dd067"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The beautiful plastic and microsuede box in which the Edition comes is simply stunning, and when showing it to our own in-house designer (who holds a degree in industrial design), he noted the incredible tolerances and smooth corners to every piece of the packaging. To him, it gets no better than when Apple does great packaging, and to me, as someone who lives in a world of leather-bound books and the smell of rich mahogany, the clean, minimalist approach to packaging was a welcome change. Have you SEEN the boxes that come with luxury watches today? They're enormous, they're wasteful, and they're downright silly (shout out to NOMOS though – you guys kill it!). ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9da79a3b-47be-4795-8250-36d5d657635b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"body":"While Apple's early Edition watches in solid gold sold for upwards of $18,000 and the ceramic sells for around $1,400, Audemars Piguet sells both the gold and full ceramic version of their perpetual calendar Royal Oak for roughly the same price ($93,900 in ceramic versus $95,700 in rose or yellow gold). This begs the question: \"Who is up-charging the most – Switzerland or Silicon Valley?\"","title":"Things That Make You Go \"Hmm\"","images":["324f7212-e180-49df-93a5-0a1334eeeaf4"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"This being the Edition, the entire case of my Apple Watch Series 3 is ceramic. And that's not steel coated in ceramic, it's the real deal. Actually, it's Apple's own in-house ceramic, which uses a powder made of zirconia, yttrium oxide, and alumina. From there, each case is compression molded, then Apple uses 70 diamond-grit CNC machines for over six hours to cut the cases. After that, the ceramic goes through two full hours of polishing to bring it to the sheen that you see here. Again, the quality of the ceramic matches that of any high-end polished ceramic watch I've seen in the market from Switzerland. In fact, Apple has indicated they are using much of the same finishing techniques that one might expect to see in, say, Le Brassus or Le Sentier, and if you look through <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/newsroom/2016/11/designed-by-apple-in-california-chronicles-20-years-of-apple-design//" target=\"_blank\">Apple's \"Designed by Apple In California\" book</a>, and then tour Audemars Piguet for example, you'll see the very same tools. In thinking about it, the only high-end Swiss watch that is objectively a more impressive use of ceramic is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ap-perpetual-calendar-ceramic-26579ce/" target=\"_blank\">AP's Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in full ceramic with ceramic bracelet</a>, and that is because of the multiple facets and finishing types seen on the bezel, mid-case, and bracelet. The ceramic AP is one of the hottest watches in the world at the moment, and even at $93,900 it has a wait list a mile long. Though they are very different watches, I would not be shocked if many ceramic AP owners end up buying ceramic Apple watches – they just kind of go together.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8721d57c-12c1-4e6f-b421-a2172ab3adb2","442a5fa2-01cf-4e0c-b2c6-99021ac750f4"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The muted grey of this new Edition is such a wonderful color – I prefer it vastly to the white ceramic that was available in Series 2. Now, that white ceramic is still available in Series 3, but I think white is a very particular look that will appeal to a very particular set of consumers, while this grey will be far more popular with a wider range of people. Oh, and if you hadn't <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/zenith-el-primero-for-hodinkee?variant=30606885764\%22 target=\"_blank\">guessed</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/vacheron-constantin-historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-limited-edition-for-hodinkee?variant=35842814415\%22 target=\"_blank\">by</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/hodinkee-magazine-volume-1/" target=\"_blank\">now</a>, I'm a fan of grey.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The two pieces of the watch that aren't grey are the caseback, which includes the sensors for heart rate and haptic responses, and the large red dot on the end of the otherwise grey digital crown. This red dot signifies to all that this Apple Watch is indeed cellular capable.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9f4432d8-9fbe-4463-b0db-96df8a2fc858"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["35d527cf-1787-44dc-9d41-c894042b5ef5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The red dot is somewhat of a curious move by Apple for a few reasons. Visually, it's fairly striking, and to some, including the HODINKEE designer I mentioned above, it's a complete turn-off. He said, \"it's a deal-breaker\" for me. I wouldn't go that far, but then again, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/friday-live-episode-18/" target=\"_blank\">as I told you Friday, I'm color blind</a> and it doesn't jump out that much to me. Still, for a company known for being measured in all that they do, this feels a little extravagant, a little showy, in the most Cupertino kind of way. \nAnd if Apple did want to have some visual cue to let others know you've copped the new hotness with that cellular bizness inside, why make it a red dot, a logo well known and loved by a brand with which many consumers of \"luxury digital products\" are well acquainted – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://petapixel.com/2017/08/30/leica-logo-changed-past-100-years//" target=\"_blank\">Leica</a>? Hell, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://petapixel.com/2013/11/24/one-kind-jony-ive-red-leica-m-sells-whopping-1-8m-charity-auction//" target=\"_blank\">Apple designers Jony Ive and Marc Newson even collaborated on a Leica</a> for the Red Charity Auction in 2013. Again, the red dot isn't a huge deal, but I'd love to get the background on this. Why that and why there?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4a2f5ba6-2792-42f2-8b1f-387146cd261a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The wrist position, though .2mm thicker than the previous version (we're now at 11.4mm), is just like earlier watches, and excellent. That said, I would be lying if I said I wasn't a little disappointed that we actually went thicker for Series 3 instead of thinner – and I know that it's packed with much more tech, but the heart wants what the hearts wants, and man, I want a super thin Apple Watch. Still, Apple Watch remains a remarkably comfortable tool to wear on the wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Apple Watch Series 3 As A New Part Of Your Life"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["08918e42-44fb-4e4b-93ba-b422a66a7c29"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"When Apple announced that you no longer needed to keep your phone near your watch I didn't really think it was that big of a deal. The watch and phone go together – one is a peripheral to the other. But as soon as I had to chance to set up the watch and try it out, I realized that Apple Watch Series 3 is a giant, and I do mean giant, step towards making the product what many in Cupertino dreamed it would be and what many in Geneva feared it would be – a truly powerful tool on which millions will become reliant, just like they are on their phones. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"So how does it work? Effortlessly. Your watch connects to your phone using the very same number you've likely had for years, and the watch and phone become interchangeable. In fact, one could almost replace the other, and yes I'm talking about the watch replacing your phone. The first time I left my phone on my desk upstairs and went down to the street to make a phone call, I didn't really believe it would work. It did. And well.\nAnd of course, when I placed that first call, my own telephone number showed up, and the call was crystal clear in downtown New York City. I became obsessed, and quickly. The next day, I didn't even bring my phone to work with me. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["18771fe5-8d6d-425c-8bb3-f3765e289dd5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, what I haven't mentioned yet is that there is actually a sister product to Apple Watch Series 3 that is all but a must-have: AirPods. Apple's wireless Bluetooth headphones have been with me since December of last year, and while the sound quality is hardly audiophile worthy, they are incredibly convenient. At this point, I couldn't live without them, and I felt that way even before I received this sample Series 3 to try. They are an even bigger part of my life with the Series 3 in the picture.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["10fb78e4-e246-48c2-8055-ec3709f9fba3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This image above is what I've carried with me the last three days. Not only is there no phone – which, let me tell you, is incredibly liberating – but also I'm now only carrying one AirPod with me at a time. I can make calls, listen to music, and use Siri all from just the single unit, which I throw into my pants pocket when I'm not using it. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I used the term \"liberating\" above, and I mean it. With Apple Watch 1 and 2, you were essentially given an additional screen that told you what you were already being told on your larger, more powerful, more familiar screen (your phone). I understand why that wouldn't be for all – and frankly in the end, it wasn't for me either. This is different. Completely different. I don't know that I ever would've guessed I would say this about a smartwatch, but Apple Watch Series 3 might make your life better – you'll be less connected with the digital world and more connected with the real world around you.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"Apple Watch Series 3 might make your life better – you'll be less connected to the digital world and more connected with the real world around you. ","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"In the few days I've been using the Series 3 Edition as my only communication device, I've found myself checking Instagram less. Texting less. Dickin' around on the web less. I use the watch to text or make phone calls when I need to – and that's it. My definition of \"need\" has changed completely – and frankly I don't miss having my phone in my pocket at all. \nIs it more cumbersome to respond to emails and texts? Sure, but Siri in the new watchOS 4 is so dialed-in that mistakes seldom happen in dictation, and there is a nice \"scribble\" function where you can essentially write what you want to say with your finger – it's definitely good enough for quick responses – and, as I've strangely discovered over the last few days, life goes on if emails go unanswered for an hour or two. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cb2c1113-718e-4e83-b877-e68894c51e3b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Dropping the phone from your #EDC is far and away the most important impact Series 3 will have on you, but the other benefits of wearing an Apple Watch should be mentioned too. You start to pay attention to how active you are – or in my case, or inactive. It reminds you to exercise, to stand up, to breathe. The new OS monitors your heart-rate constantly now, and compares your resting heart rate, active rate, and recovery rates. Frankly, having this much information about your heart is a little disconcerting, but it's also powerful. Apple even launched the Apple Heart Study in partnership with Stanford, which will use the technology to better identify cardiac irregularities earlier. The potential here is, of course, massive. Oh, and did I mention Apple has been in talks with Aetna to potentially offer the Apple Watch to its 20-million-plus subscribers with either a full or partial subsidy? Let's pull this out a little bit to think about what this could mean.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Apple, Aetna, And What Corporate Wellness Could Mean For Them And For Every One Of Their Competitors"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["966db545-295f-48f9-9437-6e168c799b37"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Apple currently has a \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/watch/corporate-wellness//" target=\"_blank\">Corporate Wellness</a>\" page on its website – though I'd never seen it before last night. And the corporate wellness page focuses almost singularly on the Watch. It features quotes from executives from large corporations extolling the benefits Apple Watch has had on the health of its employees. But it is perhaps the first and most visible quote is most interesting. It comes from an executive VP and Chief of HR at Aetna, a $60 billion insurance company that provides healthcare to over 20 million people. Aetna currently provides the Apple Watch to all of its 50,000 employees for free. \nIn June 2016, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://investor.aetna.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=110617&p=irol-newsArticle&ID=2206242\%22 target=\"_blank\">Aetna released an announcement that they would be \"Transforming Members’ Consumer Health Experience Using iPhone, iPad and Apple Watch.\"</a> Just last month, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.cnbc.com/2017/08/17/apple-aetna-apple-watch-meeting-details-revealed.html/" target=\"_blank\">CNBC reported that Apple and Aetna met again</a> to discuss how Aetna's own employees found using the Apple wellness program. While nothing has been confirmed, logic would tell us Apple and Aetna are on the verge of announcing a comprehensive partnership. If you look back at the keynote from last week, you'll see that more than half of the time spent on the watch was spent discussing health. That emotional video played in the beginning entitled \"Dear Apple\" gives you a pretty good idea of what's to come. You can watch it below if you missed it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","autoplay":false,"video_id":"N-x8Ik9G5Dg","poster_url":null,"video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"Apple is doing a pretty good job at making a case for everyone you know to buy this watch with a video like this – and frankly with the health capabilities the new watchOS 4 has. But don't worry, if that wasn't enough, it won't be long before your insurance provider might even subsidize the cost of your Apple Watch, or even give it to you for free if can be proven that it makes you healthier. And to center the conversation back to our primary audience – imagine how long it'll take for the Apple Watch to take the crown away from Casio then, or to leave Rolex permanently in its dust. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["286ed56a-c81b-4eee-924a-05b6ae68871a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Imagine how many people who have shown little interest in smartwatches will all of a sudden be wearing an Apple Watch. Imagine how many people who are simply indifferent to what goes on his or her wrist – the majority of humanity – will be wearing an Apple Watch because, hell, it could save your life, and if insurance will cover it, why not? Do you think the ability to upgrade to a mechanical chronograph like with TAG Heuer or a Louis Vuitton–stamped charger case will convince a single person to stay away from Apple? Right. You see what I'm getting at here. I just hope Switzerland is prepared – I truly do – because I love mechanical watches and all that they've meant to me and millions of other over the years. But with Apple's developments in health, and now the ability to disconnect from your phone and in turn create an actually healthier lifestyle, the traditional watch industry needs to prepare for a cataclysmic shock.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Apple Watch Series 3 As, You Know, An Actual Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["308e83db-118d-4b60-9187-45d086b0b79f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Enough about that though – what's it like to actually wear the Series 3 as a watch? It seems almost silly to talk about its time-telling ability when it can do so much more, but at the end of the day, this is HODINKEE and if we're going to say, \"fine, we'll call it a watch,\" then this has to be considered. Series 3 has dozens of dial types, including the new Explorer dial seen above, and several from the previous versions of the OS that are reminiscent of traditional watch faces. What is fun, though not new, is that the Apple Watch actually pays homage to one of horology's greatest complications (and one of my personal favorites) with its lap-timer. When you select the \"analog\" face in the stop watch app, you see what looks like a real-deal rattrapante, or split-seconds chronograph. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d15ba843-4d6a-4cd0-ba30-cbbf343e1836"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Just as before, the dial goes dark until you lift your wrist to look at it. When configured as above, it mimics a traditional analog watch in a convincing manner. The Edition, in all its high-end ceramic glory, does give the wearer a sense that he or she is wearing something special – but everything is relative. After a few days of wearing the Apple Watch Series 3 Edition, I put my gold Lange 1 back on, and well, it felt like home. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13e7bf02-1e14-450a-9450-45148d14a243"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Apple Watch Series 3, Edition or not, is the watch we've been waiting for from Apple. As mentioned, the cellular capabilities alone elevate this product from a niche peripheral to something that could become instrumental to millions of people's daily lives. The setup above, Series 3 with cellular and one AirPod, I expect to become almost indispensable to many, just as it has been for me this last week. The Edition, an admittedly pricey option for an object that will likely become obsolete in 18 months, is silly when viewed that way, but lovely when viewed for what it is – an expertly produced and stunning piece of industrial design that gives fine watchmakers a run for their money. It's so beautiful and so complex to produce that it makes me wonder if this watch is simply a beta test for larger projects with ceramic to come. It must be. Because though Apple is indeed the ultimate luxury brand – and it's becoming more \"luxury\" each year – I'd be curious to see how big demand for a $1,349 semi-disposable watch really is. That's not to say the Edition doesn't have a place, it definitely does, and frankly it is with people just like me, but I'm talking bigger picture here. It is lovely, and to me far more interesting than a traditional steel Apple Watch – but I recognize the absurdity in it for the average person looking in. It is, of course the same absurdity through which the entire mechanical watch world is viewed daily. That said, sometimes want is a far stronger desire than need and the Edition will find its fans, surely.\nPutting the price of this Edition aside, I think this Friday, as the Apple Watch Series 3 begins to deliver all over the world, we are about to begin a new chapter for smartwatches and perhaps for watches in general. Will Swiss watchmaking do as Nokia did with the iPhone and downplay the threat until it's far too late? Or will Swiss watchmaking thrive due to the very reason that it stands for hand-craft, longevity, and multi-generational appeal – the very antithesis of most digital products? The answer is likely neither one nor the other. The watch industry doesn't move as a whole – some resist, some accept. Now the question becomes where each brand will stand as the dust settles on what is very likely a new era for the watch world, all ushered in by the Apple Watch Series 3.\nYou can read more about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/apple-watch-edition//" target=\"_blank\">Apple Watch Series 3 Edition right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"BONUS: We Stop Three Random People On The Streets Of Brooklyn To Ask Them About The New Apple Watch Series 3"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","autoplay":false,"video_id":"6106661979001","poster_url":null,"video_type":"brightcove"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"What do three total strangers think of the new Apple Watch? Well, have a look above.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Video: Will Holloway/Greyson Korhonen","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"467214b4-1519-4984-85d6-ee2e2b062f8b","container_id":4779,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1505823722318-wc6nce9ue9k-7b6c719a9b534ca2727702ebe96e2e1a/3H0A5187_copy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-09-19T06:14:33.580-04:00","updated_at":"2017-09-19T08:22:11.296-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1505823722318-wc6nce9ue9k-7b6c719a9b534ca2727702ebe96e2e1a/3H0A5187_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-3-edition-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Apple Watch Series 3 Edition","tags":["apple","smartwatch","digital","a-week-on-the-wrist","apple-watch"]},{"id":4772,"slug":"joe-thompson-joins-hodinkee-as-editor-at-large","column_slug":"announcements","title":"Joe Thompson Joins HODINKEE As Editor-At-Large","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-09-19T09:26:28.212-04:00","created_at":"2017-09-14T10:42:17.836-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:59:13.280-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"We have a new team member here at HODINKEE. And he happens to be a legend. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":24404,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"Following up on the news that HODINKEE welcomed the great<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jon-bues-joins-hodinkee-as-senior-editor/" target=\"_blank\"> Jonathan Bues as our senior editor just one month ago</a> and that we launched our very first <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-magazine-volume-1-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">print publication two weeks ago</a>, I am thrilled to make another announcement that will further demonstrate HODINKEE's pursuit of quality journalism in watches. As of today, we have a new editor on staff, and his name is Joe Thompson. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Joe is a consummate journalist who has been reporting on the watch industry for 40 years. Along the way, he's visited nearly every watch manufacture you can imagine, from Switzerland to Japan, and interviewed anyone and everyone who has had a hand in shaping the watch world over those four decades. His relationship to and understanding of the watch industry is simply unparalleled, as the late Mr. Nicolas G. Hayek would've told you. Joe is a true journalist, never afraid to ask the tough questions, and he brings a level of insight and knowledge to his reporting that for many years has been the gold standard in watch journalism. You know that when Joe says something, he does so with authority and understanding, and of course with his readers clearly in mind.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Joe was most recently the 17-year editor-in-chief of WatchTime magazine, and before that he was the founding editor of American Time magazine and editor-in-chief of Modern Jeweler. He is regularly quoted in publications such as the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, the Financial Times, the Washington Post, USA Today, the BCC, Forbes, and Sports Illustrated. Joe has also won nine editorial excellence awards from the American Business Press and two from Sigma Delta Chi, the Society of Professional Journalists, not to mention he received a Gem Lifetime Achievement Award from the Jewelers of America. Yeah, he's kind of a big deal.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Here at HODINKEE, Joe is going to be bringing totally new types of stories to the site. He will be reporting on big industry trends, interviewing the most important players in the game, and providing historical perspectives that will change how you look at watches altogether. You'll also be seeing Joe at more HODINKEE events – and if you do, we highly recommend you come up and say hello. He's one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet, and if you're lucky you'll get one of his famed \"off the record\" stories.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Again, we couldn't be happier to welcome Joe to the HODINKEE team. You'll be hearing a lot from him very soon. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":45,"slug":"announcements","name":"Announcements","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2017-08-11T15:11:06.272-04:00","updated_at":"2021-01-04T14:04:40.788-05:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"b8a6ea27-b9ca-4817-a1e3-d4654c573a36","container_id":4772,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1505396479583-qzak9rnzrr-dd7eef070ca0264f3aa17de88b993351/unnamed.jpg","width":1600,"height":900,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-09-14T10:42:17.858-04:00","updated_at":"2017-09-14T10:42:17.858-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1505396479583-qzak9rnzrr-dd7eef070ca0264f3aa17de88b993351/unnamed.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/joe-thompson-joins-hodinkee-as-editor-at-large","full_title":"Announcements: Joe Thompson Joins HODINKEE As Editor-At-Large","tags":["announcements"]},{"id":4754,"slug":"talking-watches-with-jack-nicklaus","column_slug":"talking_watches","title":"With Jack Nicklaus","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-09-13T12:22:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-09-06T18:20:38.308-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:59:08.363-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":2,"lede":"The Golden Bear has been wearing one golden wristwatch every day since 1967, and now we know the full story.","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106667539001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":140398,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"It’s not often you get to be in the presence of true greatness. And I know on this site we tend to talk up how wonderful this watch is or how revelatory that watch is. We even, at at times, say things like “this is a once-in-a-lifetime” chance to see this or that. And we mean it when we say it, but we are speaking in relative terms, because we are, after all, talking about watches. But today, I'll speak in far more literal terms, because in this special episode of Talking Watches I talk to an actual living legend. In fact, just a few weeks ago in Palm Beach, Florida, I had the honor of sitting down with a man who is the very best in the world at something – someone who remains at the pinnacle of his sport, though his reign ended decades ago. I'm talking about Jack Nicklaus. Yes, the Jack Nicklaus.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f229b5bb-695b-489a-b059-9978f6ee62ce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Jack Nicklaus is the greatest golfer to have ever lived. He is among the greatest professional athletes of all time. He recorded 18 professional major wins, 73 PGA tour wins, and 113 professional tournament wins. It is his 18 majors though that remains the record to which all golfers aspire, a record that sets him apart from every other golfer to have ever played the game. Did I mention he came in second in majors 19 times over the span of two and half decades, too? Jack is, quite simply, the greatest of all time. And it turns out, he's got a watch story.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7398af07-ddfc-4832-be34-1341d4737c81","a23ac1bc-d8b3-4ef8-85dc-7d42e5680b32"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Jack is anything but a collector – in fact, though he has been an official part of the Rolex family since 1995, he has only owned one watch. This watch, a Rolex Day-Date reference 1803 in yellow gold, has been on his wrist every day of his life since he received it all the way back in 1967. That means this watch was with him during 12 of his 18 majors – he'd wear it to the course, place it into a small bag, and place it into his golf bag, and then slide it back onto his wrist while walking off the 18th green. It never left his side, while traveling to play in the Ryder Cup, while deep sea fishing (he holds the record for the largest marlin ever caught – it hangs on the wall in his game room), while swimming with barracudas (he is, of course, a certified SCUBA diver), and while raising his five children and helping to raise his 22 grandchildren. This gold Rolex Day-Date is a part of the Jack Nicklaus story, and here, he tells us all about it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For more on Jack, please visit the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.nchcf.org//" target=\"_blank\">Nicklaus Children's Health Care Foundation website</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a013d9a7-a3a2-4cc0-bd34-c2f7cda5bab8","84b19319-0444-422a-95f8-e8bd5a703309"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["630e6561-53b4-418d-b8f0-c621b5336861","c455311d-9609-432f-9ea9-109866826c01"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ef4d1264-377f-4890-b71d-473447f35613","08e0db20-c9b5-4431-970e-3689dbfaa2a6"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e629626a-cd18-4c7c-97da-f8a0eccab3c6","9a318ce9-2d60-402c-ab99-a80139ce3a67"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2f586203-7df5-4748-bc4a-be05ac2984b7","458d1796-d5dc-4921-ae2f-c4bedb422323"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Video/photography: Will Holloway and Greyson Korhonen\nTo share/embed the video above, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://vimeo.com/233382334#share\" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.\nAdditional images and video: Jim Mandeville/<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.nicklaus.com//" target=\"_blank\">The Nicklaus Companies</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":18,"slug":"talking_watches","name":"Talking Watches","description":"HODINKEE’s flagship video series explores watches and the people who love them – from musicians and athletes to tech innovators and business moguls.","sort_order":13,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.178-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.507-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"6ce91a30-ae11-49b2-aa39-b5d49ad86d85","container_id":4754,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1504736314757-y2yvyaq46m-d78493fcf0b49d26bab6cfa9fbb29b3b/_hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-09-06T18:20:38.562-04:00","updated_at":"2017-09-06T18:20:38.562-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1504736314757-y2yvyaq46m-d78493fcf0b49d26bab6cfa9fbb29b3b/_hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-jack-nicklaus","full_title":"Talking Watches: With Jack Nicklaus","tags":["rolex","talking-watches"]},{"id":4761,"slug":"ralph-lauren-wearing-an-urwerk-210-in-the-new-york-times","column_slug":"watch_spotting","title":"Ralph Lauren Wearing An Urwerk 210 In The New York Times","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-09-12T01:50:19.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-09-12T00:51:55.757-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:59:10.686-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"An icon of American elegance gets technical with the help of Urwerk.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":2785,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":35545,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"In the fall of 2015, I was presented with the opportunity to sit down with a personal hero of mine to talk watches. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-look-inside-the-personal-watch-collection-of-ralph-lauren/" target=\"_blank\">This look at Ralph Lauren's personal collection of watches</a> is a story I often think about when asked which experiences from over the years are among my favorites – and based on the response from you, our readers, I'm not alone. In that piece, Ralph showed us everything from Andy Warhol's personal Cartier Tank, to some original oversized Panerais and IWCs from World War II. What he also mentioned, though almost in passing, is that he is actually a fan of Urwerk, of all things. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["daccbeac-c0d6-49da-9695-e4518f01d967"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Just this weekend, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/09/fashion/ralph-lauren-bedford-hills-vintage-cars-new-york-fashion-week.html?mcubz=0&login=email\%22 target=\"_blank\">the New York Times published a story on Ralph, </a>his company, and the experiential fashion show to be held within his private garage in upstate New York tonight, all to be seen on Instagram. And on his wrist in both the photo in the Times, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/BY6kNtLHbNg/?taken-by=ralphlauren\%22 target=\"_blank\">in a few of the short Instagram videos posted to @RalphLauren</a>? You guessed it, an Urwerk. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4444cbe3-08ec-49ae-9d9c-e6bfbc7c071a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Which specific Urwerk is Ralph wearing? It looks to be a UR210Y, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-urwerk-ur-210y-black-hawk#&gid=1&pid=2\" target=\"_blank\">which was first introduced in February 2014 here</a>, is made of titanium and steel, and is only produced in 75 pieces. While Ralph is perhaps best known for his traditional, elegant taste in clothing, watches, and cars, one mustn't forget this is the man who famously combined fine leather with Airforce grade carbon fiber to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.ralphlaurenhome.com/products/furniture/item.aspx?haid=6&collId=&sort=&phaid=&itemId=10115\%22 target=\"_blank\">produce the RL-CF1 Lounge Chair</a>, and is just as comfortable in a McLaren P1 and RLX jacket as he his in a 1930s Bugatti and a Purple Label double-breasted suit. \n\nYou can read <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/09/fashion/ralph-lauren-bedford-hills-vintage-cars-new-york-fashion-week.html?mcubz=0&login=email\%22 target=\"_blank\">the NY Times story where Ralph Lauren is wearing an Urwerk here</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.urwerk.com/en/collection-210-collection-ur-210-c3-p8.php/" target=\"_blank\">you can read more about the watch here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":22,"slug":"watch_spotting","name":"Watch Spotting","description":"Photo-first, event-driven articles that feature photography from news and wire agencies. 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Today is one of those days. \n\nIndeed, coming up for sale next week in Monterey during car week are three very special vehicles that speak to three different sides of Cunninham's influence in automobiles: special commissions, racing, and actual car building. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Unique 1964 Maserati 5000 GT By Michelotti, Commissioned By Briggs Cunningham"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["074d678a-3bd1-4c8d-86f4-a779252ae3bc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Maserati 5000 is considered among the most glamorous, powerful, and exclusive road-going automobiles of the 1960s. The original concept, created at the request of Sha of Iran in 1958, was to take the enormous engines used by Maserati's successful 450S race cars and drop it into the body of a 3500 GT, Maserati's first road-going car. Only 34 of these mega-GTs would be made and were offered only to the most important clients in the world: Fiat-magnate Gianni Agnelli, the Aga Khan, and yes, Briggs Cunningham. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_right"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Cunningham's 5000 GT wasn't like the others, though. Instead, he requested a special car that resembled the 450S race car as much as possible with improved aerodynamics to give him as close to a road-going 450S as possible – most Maserati 5000 GTs seemed to take almost no aerodynamics into account <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.supercars.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Maserati-5000-GT-Allemano-Coupe-19015.jpg/" target=\"_blank\" style=\"font-size: 18px;\">with square, boxy edges</a>. Cunningham's car was styled by Michelotti and he took the time to travel to Italy to test-drive the car before delivery – at Monza. \n\nThis special car commissioned by Cunningham is likely the fastest and most interesting road going Maserati of the era and Bonhams will sell it with an estimate of $1.1 million to $1.4 million this Friday, August 18th. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.rmsothebys.com/mo17/monterey/lots/1964-maserati-5000-gt-coupe-by-michelotti/1704607/" target=\"_blank\">More here</a>.\n\n","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"1963 Le Mans-Running Jaguar E-Type Lightweight, Ex-Team Cunningham"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["5d359cb1-ad42-4f95-86b7-5893464331ab"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While Cunningham's 1964 commission with Maserati was used to get around from track to track during the European racing season, this Jaguar was meant for actual performance driving on the ring. Indeed, Cunningham had an obsession with winning the ultimate endurance rally of the 24 hour of Le Mans and since government restrictions on small-batch automobile manufacturers had limited his chances of winning using a car of his own design, he had selected to link-up with Jaguar. With the full support of the manufacturer, Cunningham brought three of these souped-up and stripped down \"GTO Killers\" to Le Mans with good success, finishing 9th over all. \n\nCunningham continued to run the lightweight E-Type at races in the United States, winning several of them. The car was sold by Cunningham in the 1970s and went through a string of prestigious collections all over the world. To this day, the light-weight E-Types are among the most desired period racers as more information on them becomes available. The cars were never promoted or advertised by Jaguar, and they they share a similar look to the well-known E-Type, very little of the production cars made their way into these special race-bound machines. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"ZDO3cs_OsQI","poster_url":null,"video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"The 1963 Jaguar E-Type Lightweight, ex-Team Cunningham, Le Mans, and Bridgehampton will be sold by Bonhams on Friday, August 18th. The estimate is not published by the department, which, well, means it'll be a lot. More <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/23977/lot/52//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"1953 Cunningham C-3 Vignale Owned By The Cunningham Family"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["785c2d8d-5a54-42e5-853d-ee3b618d90d7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the present Maserati and Jaguar are incredibly special cars and no doubt will sell well into the seven figure range, there is nothing more personal than an actual Cunningham sports car. This 1953 Cunningham C-3, like all cars made with the Cunningham name on the hood, were designed and produced in Palm Beach using an American power plant, but with body work coming from Italy. The C-3 uses a Chrysler Hemi V-8 engine inside lovely Vignale styling to the body – a true hybrid of American muscle and Italian coach building. \n\nOnly 25 C-3s were produced, and each sold for around $12,000 in 1953, an enormous price for the time. The cars went to families that ran in the same circles as Briggs: Rockefeller, du Pont, etc. What's more? This car was Briggs Cunningham's personal C-3 Cunningham.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"vfRzlMh6sC8","poster_url":null,"video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"This rare car is still owned by the Cunningham family – Briggs' daughter to be exact – and though it has been repainted and the leather upholsty reapplied, the car is very original and has undeniable provenance. The car at the time of cataloging had just over 10,000 miles on the odometer and this car, while arguably the most closely associated of the three cars available next weekend to Mr. Cunningham himself has the lowest estimate: $750,000 to $950,000. Having said that, RM Sotheby's will sell this incredible car so closely associated with the great man himself without reserve, so anything is possible. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.rmsothebys.com/mo17/monterey/lots/1953-cunningham-c-3-coupe-by-vignale/1704356/" target=\"_blank\">Click here for more</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":32,"slug":"weekend_reading","name":"Weekend Reading","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-08-13T12:30:45.854-04:00","updated_at":"2021-01-04T14:55:07.903-05:00","status":"archived"},"hero_image":{"id":"072e4d99-6ebe-41e7-aaca-3b37d1894163","container_id":4702,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1502566869029-oe3mg8j8dcn-9d0c86815cb921b1b1eb7e264464c050/1963_Jaguar_E-Type_Lightweight_14_Cunningham_20.jpg","width":1600,"height":1067,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-08-11T13:50:44.443-04:00","updated_at":"2017-08-12T15:57:48.380-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1502566869029-oe3mg8j8dcn-9d0c86815cb921b1b1eb7e264464c050/1963_Jaguar_E-Type_Lightweight_14_Cunningham_20.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/briggs-cunninghams-cars-for-sale","full_title":"Weekend Reading: Three Cars Owned By Briggs Cunningham Are Coming Up For Sale Next Weekend","tags":["sothebys","bonhams","automotive","recommended-reading","weekend-report"]},{"id":4580,"slug":"talking-watches-with-alton-brown","column_slug":"talking_watches","title":"With Alton Brown","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-07-17T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-06-16T16:59:00.068-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:58:19.567-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":2,"lede":"You asked for it, we delivered. Let's talk some watches with the man himself.","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106670107001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":174260,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"ALTON","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"One thing watch guys are not, is reserved about their opinions. And one thing that seemingly every watch guy has a suggestion about is who we should interview for the next episode of Talking Watches. Today, we'll be satisfying a whole bunch of you who have been after us to sit down with this gentleman: author, chef, television host, pilot, and all around awesome guy Mr. Alton Brown. Alton is both a culinary and a showbiz powerhouse; his science-of-food series <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.foodnetwork.com/shows/good-eats/" target=\"_blank\">Good Eats</a> is a classic and he's also hosted <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.foodnetwork.com/shows/iron-chef-america/" target=\"_blank\">Iron Chef America</a> (which is back in production after a three-year absence) as well as this year's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.foodnetwork.com/shows/iron-chef-gauntlet/" target=\"_blank\">Iron Chef Gauntlet</a>. He's also toured with his live show, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://altonbrown.com/alton-brown-live-eat-science-broadway//" target=\"_blank\">Eat Your Science</a>. \nOver the course of my career in Talking Watches (which is coming up on four years now!), Alton Brown's name has been among the most often mentioned as a candidate. And so I'm very proud to present to you the official HODINKEE Talking Watches with Peabody and James Beard Award winner Alton Brown.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a549fa0b-5678-4335-874a-e57098c0c4ae"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rolex GMT-Master Reference 6542"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e674540e-5602-4149-ba8b-fc837e8088e3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Alton Brown is not only a television host, producer, and author, but also a licensed pilot. The GMT-Master is an obvious choice for him, and it's a watch he makes a point of wearing while flying. This early reference 6542 was serviced early on by Rolex, and as such has become a far more wearable version of this usually more fragile and radium-filled reference.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rolex Submariner Reference 1680 'Red Sub'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a6969e35-c5c2-48f7-ac99-a82b58eedad5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This 1680 \"Red Sub\" is one of Alton's favorites because of the incredible ghosting to the bezel and the deep fading to the markers on the dial. It's about as large as he'll go in terms of watch size, but he loves it, and to me, it's a perfect example of one of the things that makes Submariners so much fun to collect – they really show what type of life they've led.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rolex Submariner Reference 6205"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["346e5e21-1517-4edc-910f-93107b256079"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Growing up in the 1960s, Alton was fascinated with two things: exploration of space and deep diving. The Submariner – a mainstay, he says, of the culinary world – is arguably the most archetypal of all dive watches, so it's a must-have. This example is a reference 6205 and he likes it for its small crown, slim case, and gilt dial. He often wears this watch with a suit.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["62e53fa3-8e1a-4789-8561-48c4cdc253e8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This Nivada Grenchen is a sentimental favorite for Alton because it was made the very year he was born – 1962 – and it was given to him by a relative many years ago. The case is something of a \"baby Panerai\" shape and this particular dial is interesting because of its deco, almost \"Pac-Man\" looking numerals.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Tudor Submariner Reference 7021 'Snowflake' "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e1335c41-c7e6-4acd-a8de-5b9e7487df3f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Alton has a self-described weakness for Tudor, which he sees as the more creative little brother to the elder and more conservative Rolex. This reference 7021 he loves for its blue dial and snowflake hands, and though it originally came with a cyclops on the crystal, he prefers it without. This Tudor Sub is one Alton often wears while traveling.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Omega Seamaster Chronostop Owned By His Father"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d967ec4b-d52a-465f-bdfb-9800f7eda241"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This has to go down as the most incredible story we've heard in all four years of Talking Watches. This Omega Chronostop belonged to Alton's father, and was on his wrist on the day that he passed away in 1973, when Alton was just 10 years old. Alton's mother eventually gave Alton his dad's watch, and one day while in college, Alton's apartment was broken into and the watch was taken. As you can imagine, he was devastated by the loss of his father's watch and he never stopped looking for it. \nSome two decades later, Alton located the very watch that was stolen from him – in an Ebay listing. Thanks to his father's meticulous record keeping, he was able to confirm that this now heavily worn watch was indeed his father's, and he went about purchasing it. He then found a watchmaker to provide NOS OEM parts to return the watch to the condition in which he remembered it. \nThis Omega Chronostop that once belonged to his father is one of his most prized possessions, and he wears it often, citing the one-minute chronostop function as being very practical for him, because of the one minute legs he's used to flying while in a holding pattern.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":18,"slug":"talking_watches","name":"Talking Watches","description":"HODINKEE’s flagship video series explores watches and the people who love them – from musicians and athletes to tech innovators and business moguls.","sort_order":13,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.178-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.507-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"d8383a17-d3c4-4052-96b3-bd6f59a2a7f3","container_id":4580,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1497646591688-lfn1eq19rsd-26acd60f7f6181b1125a968ac7a54c91/hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-06-16T16:59:00.102-04:00","updated_at":"2017-06-16T16:59:00.102-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1497646591688-lfn1eq19rsd-26acd60f7f6181b1125a968ac7a54c91/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-alton-brown","full_title":"Talking Watches: With Alton Brown","tags":["omega","tudor","talking-watches","vintage-rolex","nivada "]},{"id":4637,"slug":"the-patek-philippe-5522a-limited-edition-pilots-calatrava","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Patek Philippe 5522A Limited Edition Pilot's Calatrava","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-07-12T09:00:03.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-07-11T13:36:19.651-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:58:33.987-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A 42mm stainless steel time-only limited edition for the U.S. market only. And there are 600 of them!","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":4479,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":120145,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"size":"right","images":["7b45eb39-ca12-48a1-a9ac-4eeb78139350"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Tomorrow in New York City, Patek Philippe will kick-off an enormous, 10-day-long, open-to-the-public \"Grand Exhibition\" entitled \"The Art of Watchmaking.\" The event will take place at Cipriani on 42nd street across from Grand Central Station and will feature dozens of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-reference-1563-duke-ellington-cloissone-world-time-clock/" target=\"_blank\">the most important pieces from Patek's history</a> as well as looks at all that the manufacture stands for today. To celebrate, Patek has unveiled a handful of limited edition products that we'll be covering here today. Perhaps not the most interesting but indeed the most approachable, is this new time-only Calatrava reference 5522A. Yes, \"A\" as in \"acier,\" or steel.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Reference 5522A is very much a pilots watch in a similar vein as the nothing if not controversial <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5524G-Calatrava-Pilot-Travel-Time/" target=\"_blank\">reference 5524G pilots travel time from 2015</a>. We see the very same blue lacquer dial from the 5524G with applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold with luminous coating. The hour and minute hands are back in blued steel with luminous coating – the seconds hand is aluminum, also with luminous coating.\n\n","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1828d44f-69fd-4fc9-be89-97b75b86ece1","cf32e328-1972-46c8-adfd-74c0c8256ffd"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The 5524 is 42mm in diameter by 9mm thick, a large diameter by most accounts in the world of Patek Philippe, though a relatively thin one. Powering this time-only watch is the caliber 324 S, the benchmark Patek self-winding movement that you'll find say, in the 5711 Nautilus. You can see it through a sapphire caseback engraved \"PATEK PHILIPPE NEW YORK 2017.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["47a83f6c-ee0f-4e32-b352-a3f6b3003fcc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["4fa7927f-a061-49d5-9f47-053a54a82709"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The 324 comes with several high-end features such as the Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring (in Silinvar – Patek's name for silicon). The power reserve is 45 hours and while we've seen the 324 caliber base in several different watches in the current line-up, I can't recall a use in the \"324 S\" iteration, which features central seconds but no date. The 324 (no S) is used <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/ladies-watches/aquanaut/5062-450R-001/" target=\"_blank\">in this solitary reference without a seconds hand </a>and the 324 SC is the same caliber with date and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/324/324-S-C/" target=\"_blank\">that's used all over the damn place</a> but a central seconds, no date iteration is something new. Actually, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/324/" target=\"_blank\">I don't even see it mentioned on the Patek page for the caliber 324 and its family</a>. Now that's not to say there is any real technical innovation found in the reference 5522A, it's a basic time-only watch using a caliber that's been around in one form or another for a decade or more. That said, many will appreciate that the 5522A is date window-less, in spite of clear commercial preference for those watches with a date (perhaps why this is the first time we see the use of 324 in the S as opposed to SC incarnation).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c9549c07-1ecb-4619-b7f1-0d7e7bccea41"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The strap on the steel 5522 is a vintage style brown calfskin with contrast stitching and steel \"clevis\" style buckle that Patek says \"resembles the belt buckles that pilots used to secure their survival kits.\" ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["34486ad1-fae9-400c-bfad-3f5fa7775e31","559214c4-5866-4452-95fe-05d8272432b8"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now for the particulars. The Patek Philippe pilot's Calatava reference 5522A will be a limited edition of 600 pieces (yes, 600 pieces!) at a price of $21,547. All 600 pieces will be allocated exclusively to U.S. retailers, of which there are 89. Obviously the larger markets will be given more than those in smaller regions, but that equates to about seven watches per retailer. It doesn't sound so horrible when you hear that, but I will admit to gasping audibly when I heard there would be six hundred pieces for just the U.S. market. But, considering it's steel, has no date, and is priced less than your basic stainless steel Nautilus (which you can hardly get from an authorized dealer anyway), something tells me these will fly. \n\nMore on the 2017 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition to come.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"5afb72c8-a66b-43ee-8216-40106bc7f3ee","container_id":4637,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1499808666784-ykzbco7rwg9-4f3ca3de31752ad969ca7eb73953b83d/pilot_watch.jpg","width":3200,"height":1800,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-07-11T13:36:19.667-04:00","updated_at":"2017-07-11T17:31:13.123-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1499808666784-ykzbco7rwg9-4f3ca3de31752ad969ca7eb73953b83d/pilot_watch.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-5522a-limited-edition-pilots-calatrava","full_title":"Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5522A Limited Edition Pilot's Calatrava","tags":["patek-philippe"]},{"id":4573,"slug":"the-rolex-sea-dweller-reference-126600","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-07-06T11:38:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-06-13T15:10:29.250-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:33.069-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"Everything you ever wanted to know about the new Rolex Sea-Dweller, and probably a lot that you didn't.","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106669543001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":315345,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 126600 was announced at Baselworld 2017, in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the model (launched in 1967). The Sea-Dweller is one of Rolex's most important, though arguably least commercial products – a true tool watch catering to true professionals. This latest incarnation is very much a Sea-Dweller, but there are many updates, including some that are technically minor but emotionally significant departures from models that came before. In this A Week On The Wrist review, I'll examine those and try to unpack just what they mean. Also, we'll talk about what this watch is meant to do, and what it's not meant to do.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rolex And The Pursuit of Waterproofness"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["491009e9-2f83-4fbc-8693-1be1207bdcff"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">my detailed look at Rolex from 2015</a>, I talk about founder Hans Wildorf's pursuit of three different properties that would come to define Rolex watches: precision timekeeping, an automatic movement, and finally, resistance to water. Why was this so important to Wilsdorf? Because prior to the introduction of the Oyster in 1926, watches (then mostly of the pocket variety) were often seen at sporting events, but always on the sidelines. \n\nHowever, Wilsdorf believed there was a real market for watches that could be worn during active sports by participants themselves. The early Oyster cases featured the first fluted bezels used by Rolex, so that watchmakers could screw them in tighter to the case middle. Of course, the screw-down Oyster crown was an important innovation from the Rolex family that further allowed wearers of these watches to go deeper than ever before.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In 1953, Rolex and Blancpain both showed professional dive watches (which came first is debatable and therefore frequently debated) and the category that many of us love so much was born. While the Fifty Fathoms was discontinued decades ago before being reintroduced by the modern incarnation of Blancpain, the Submariner has remained a constant force in the watch world for over 60 years. When it was first shown, complete with its screw-down crown, luminous radium dial, and rotating bezel, one could expect water resistance up to an impressive (for that time) 100 meters. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["07649cef-e36f-46b0-bda5-f4d33a7cf475","0de5d733-0cf6-4300-a316-addb763816da"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Indeed, reference 6204 and the original \"big crown\" reference 6200 offered divers remarkably robust tool watches. The later 6205, 6536, and 6538 followed suit, as the did the later Submariners that we all know today. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["802d4c9e-da18-4efd-aaf1-53a955ed84f1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Before that though, Rolex produced what was arguably the ne plus ultra of pre-1950s dive watches as well, they just didn't have the Rolex name on the dial. Yes, some of the original Panerais – during this period created predominantly for Italian military divers – were made completely by Rolex, and feature Rolex cases and movements. It should be noted not all of the early Panerai wristwatches used Rolex movements and cases, but several of the earliest did and they remain very collectible – one such example is the tropical dial piece owned by John Goldberger and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-john-goldberger/" target=\"_blank\">seen in his episode of Talking Watches</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"The \"Submariner\" wasn't always intended to be the Submariner, and just as Rolex experimented with names for the Daytona and other now well-known models, there was a time when the Rolex diver could have been called \"Sub-Acqua.\" A few early examples with this name have surfaced over the years such <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-a-first-series-rolex-submariner-but-with-a-different-name-on-the-dial/" target=\"_blank\">as this one at Antiquorum in 2013</a>.","title":"Did You Know?","images":["18fd4f8a-1d30-409a-8455-1d1646a8152b"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex continued to produce the Submariner in a host of variants without interruption, and as you all know, continues to produce it today. In the first couple of decades of consumer and professional dive watch production, there were certainly other serious dive watches out there, but many of them though impressive technically were not widely distributed, and few reached the level of commercial or professional success of the Sub. Omega's Seamaster line is truly the Submariner's only contender in the 1960s for a readily available dive watch, and they should not be over looked – though the story of the Seamaster has far more tangents than that of the Submariner. But this story isn't about the Submariner, is it? Let's move on to the introduction of the other Rolex dive watch, which came about 14 years later.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Introduction Of The OTHER Rolex Dive Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["76094d5a-e63f-4250-8f17-fd2d2616ac4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In many ways, the Sea-Dweller is the best expression of Rolex as a brand. From its very beginning, the model showed a preoccupation on Rolex's part with extensive over-engineering, and performance above all else. Remember, Rolex already had a more than capable dive watch in the 5512 and 5513 Submariners, and yet it wanted to build something even tougher – a watch meant for those who not only worked, but in some cases, actually lived underwater. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["e85e7db4-f4bf-497c-b828-75a8c56294b1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Sea-Dweller was born in an era when the next great stage of exploration – of extreme environments never before visited – was just beginning. Man had not yet been to the moon. It was just a decade before that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay scaled Everest for the first time; a few short years later, in 1960, the bathyscaphe Trieste successfully descended to the deepest point in the ocean. It was also during this time that the first permanent research stations were established in Antarctica, and that Nautilus, the first nuclear submarine, traveled under the Polar ice cap to the North Pole.\n\nThis was an era of scientific discovery, and the world was captivated by these feats of perseverance and determination to the point where the dive into the Marianas Trench landed Bob Walsh and Jacques Piccard on the cover of Life Magazine, arguably the magazine of record for most Americans at the time. These years of prosperity led to some of mankind's greatest explorations, and it was these feats by the greatest generation that captured the minds and hearts of the baby boomers. There was simply nothing more exciting than exploration in the late 1950s and early 1960s, whether of outer space or the deepest oceans, and this is why it makes perfect sense that during this period, Rolex developed the Sea-Dweller.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Two Experimental Rolex Dive Watches, 52 Years Apart"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["daa3a6d3-5451-418a-818f-51bea7707a0e","d0b13cff-17c3-43a0-844f-41c7db25d63f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It should be noted that the Sea-Dweller did come after the Deep-Sea Special, the watch clamped to the outside of the Trieste when it descended to the bottom of the Challenger Deep. But that watch was enormous – completely unwearable – and of course, it wasn't even really designed to be worn in the first place. The same can be said for another experimental watch made by Rolex in 2012, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/live-photos-of-james-camerons-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">the Deepsea Challenge</a>, a monster 51mm mega-dive watch that James Cameron strapped to the outside of his vessel when he recreated the historic 1960 dive. The Sea-Dweller wasn't devised as a one-time use tool, or a prototype from which other technology could be taken – it was made for the most serious divers in the world, and meant to be worn daily, over a long period of time.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"Jake Ehrlich from RolexMagazine.com has a wonderful history of Scott Carpenter's time wearing a Rolex both as an astronaut and an aquanaut. He even interviewed Carpenter himself in a 2008 podcast, which <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.bullettrain.com/podcast/ScottCarpenterInterview.mp3/" target=\"_blank\">you can listen to here</a>.","title":"Listen To Scott Carpenter Talk About SEALAB In His Own Words","images":["edcc1b5e-44e3-42e3-a888-2df7c2e05416"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"As mentioned, the connection between outer space and \"inner space,\" (a term that was coined by the Eisenhower administration after the successful dives of Trieste) was a real one. In fact, one of NASA's most famous names played a part in both. Scott Carpenter, one of the original seven Mercury astronauts and the pilot of the second manned orbital flight by an American, in Aurora 7, took leave from NASA in 1965 to participate in the U.S. Navy's \"Man-in-the-Sea\" Project called SEALAB. (Because hey, isn't that what most of us would do if given a leave of absence from NASA?) As a team leader for SEALAB II off the coast of La Jolla, California in the summer of 1965, Carpenter and his team members spent 30 days living and working on the ocean floor conducting studies from a seafloor habitat at 205 feet underwater. \n\nWith Carpenter was Bob Barth, who was the only man to participate in the three different SEALAB missions. His Submariner reference 5512 was offered for sale a few years back though the seller made no mention of how important this Submariner and its owner were for the development of the Sea-Dweller.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b57ab2c4-fcd4-4fd7-8a99-f29ef583a656"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-exclusive-and-in-depth-bob-barths-historic-sealab-r/" target=\"_blank\">interview conducted by Jason Heaton back in 2012,</a> Barth tells of how he and his fellow crew members, while undergoing decompression in a decompression chamber, would sometimes hear a quick \"pop\" only to find that the crystal of someone's watch – Submariners, Blancpains, and Tudors, mostly – had come off. The basic problem was the helium in the breathing gasses used in SEALAB. Helium forms very small molecules, which can over time penetrate the seals of a dive watch and build up in the case. Divers would spend several days in a decompression chamber, where air pressure would gradually be lowered from that at working depth, to air pressure at sea level. The helium would not be able to leak back out of the watch case quickly enough and the result was increasingly greater pressure inside the watch case – often, enough to pop the crystal off. It was the SEALAB missions that first called for a helium escape valve, which was introduced within the Rolex range on the Sea-Dweller and remains a staple of this model to this day. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"There are a small batch of early Sea-Dwellers that have only one line of red text on the dial. These \"Single Red\" Sea-Dwellers are exceedingly rare, feature a depth range of 500m instead of 600m, and often times do not have a helium escape valve. These are prototypes and generally fetch hundreds of thousands of dollars at auction, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-three-of-our-favorites-from-tomorrows-sale-at-sothebys-ny/" target=\"_blank\">such as this one did in 2013</a>.","title":"The Exceptions To The Rule","images":["8698bef5-edfc-4a30-a147-41cd9059d34b"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"The Sea-Dweller reference 1665 was introduced in 1967 as Rolex's biggest, baddest, most capable dive watch. It was water resistant to 610 meters, roughly double what a 5513 was rated to at the time, and featured two lines of red text reading \"Sea-Dweller / Submariner 2000\". The crown was a Trip-Lock; the watch featured a date (useful to saturation divers who could spend days in a decompression chamber) and it was the first time a Rolex diver would feature the complication, predating the 1680 Submariner ever so briefly. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The crystal was domed and cyclops-less. The bracelet had an extension clasp that allowed the owner to quickly open up the bracelet to allow it to fit on the outside of a diving suit. This is how the Sea-Dweller was born and how it remained for some time (we would lose the red lettering in the mid 70s around the same time the 1680 lost its red from the dial) and over the years we would see continual improvements to water resistant engineering in Rolex's most professional line. That is, of course, until Rolex killed the Sea-Dweller as we know it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Semi-Sea-Dweller-Less Years"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ca45b629-c64b-4824-8ce9-e1e6793fb92b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, Rolex is nothing if not consistent. And to think that one of the mighty five Rolex sports watches introduced in the 1950s and 60s could be effectively killed off is hard to believe. But it happened, sort of. From 2009 to 2014, there was no Sea-Dweller in the Rolex catalog. Okay, so there was the 44mm Sea-Dweller Deep-Sea, which took the concept of a pro tool diver even further, with its downright silly 3,900 meter depth rating. But along with it came an oversized 44mm case, and then in 2014, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-new-rolex-deepsea-d-blue-dial-edition-live-photos/" target=\"_blank\">the gradient blue to black dial of the \"D-Blue\" edition</a>. \n\nIt was the first time in recent years that Rolex creating a special dial for one of its existing sports watches, and it did not sit well with everyone. Still, the D-Blue was one of the hottest watches in the world when it was announced, and the traditional black dial 44mm, titanium caseback Sea-Dweller Deep-Sea is very much a Rolex – it's just that many yearned for a serious diver in a traditional 40mm size. \n\nAt Baselworld 2014, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-seadweller-4000-reference-116600/" target=\"_blank\">that's what we got with the Sea-Dweller 4000</a>. Reference 116600 was 40mm in diameter, featured a cyclops-less crystal and ceramic bezel, and was rated to 4000 feet, or 1,220 meters. This may not have been a super exciting reference, but it filled a void that had been vacant for half a decade and all was well with the world of Rolex divers. And then came Baselworld 2017.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist With The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["01f50291-726b-4dfb-b121-f14c3125b570"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex at Baselworld 2017 was a little anti-climactic for some, at least relative to 2016. There wasn't an A-list mega introduction like there was last year with the Daytona. Instead there was an update to the least well-known and certainly least understood tool watch made by Rolex. \n\nThe new Sea-Dweller came as a surprise in some ways but not others. Of course, 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of the introduction of the first Sea-Dweller 1665. But also it's important to note that we got a whole new Sea-Dweller in 2014 – that's a heck of a short run for a Rolex reference when you remember that the first Sea-Dweller was made from 1967 all the way up until the 1980s. The 5513 ran from the early '60s through the late '80s. \n\nThis is Rolex, dammit, and things shouldn't change too quickly – but they did. Though the 116600 Sea-Dweller 4000 was a great watch, with its cyclops-less crystal, 40mm case, and ceramic bezel, Rolex replaced it just three years after it was introduced. \n\nThe new 126600 is very much a Sea-Dweller though, don't be confused about that. It has a helium escape valve just as it should and it's water resistant to 1,300 feet deeper than the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building, is high. The thing is incredible, undoubtedly. However we gained three millimeters in diameter from 2014 to 2017, and that means it's no longer the same case size as the original. Further we have a cyclops window on the crystal, which if you're a Sea-Dweller guy, could be seen as something of a tragedy. Let's go through the reference 126600 in detail, now that I've had a chance to spend a week wearing it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["ea65ec9f-a4c7-4b35-a751-b8718871a754"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Forty three millimeters isn't huge. But it's not small either. It's a full 3mm larger in diameter than the previous generation Sea-Dweller, and well, all Sea-Dwellers that came before it. It remains 15mm thick (as measured by myself; case thickness is not a number Rolex shares), and while my first reaction to this upsizing of a historical tool watch is, \"gah, Rolex, why did you do that!?\" let's consider the following. \n\nThe Sea-Dweller started at 40mm and stayed there at its original size for approximately half a century. The same can not be said for the Daytona, which went from 37mm to 40mm in the late 1980s, the Explorer II, which went from 40mm to 42mm in 2011, and the Explorer I, which upsized to 39mm in 2010. Even the Milgaus, when it was brought back to life, appeared in a larger size. \n\nThe GMT-Master and Submariner were both born small (37mm) and quickly upsized to 40mm in the 1960s where they remain, more or less today. But if we have a Submariner at 40mm, doesn't it make sense that the more rugged and deeper rated Sea-Dweller is a little bigger? As much as it might frustrate many of us, it does seem to compute. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bf35029b-75d6-4b1f-a054-99adc9014b56"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now that's not to say I like it. But one thing I've learned about the watch business is that there is always something for everyone, and I know that thousands of people out there are thrilled that the new SD is 43mm. In fact, in our introducing post from BaselWorld this year, there was a shocking amount of support <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-oyster-perpetual-sea-dweller-43mm-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">within the 187 comments about the larger size</a>. With the new size comes a larger lug width – 20mm to 22mm – though the new dimensions don't make the piece that outlandish on the wrist. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["990eb608-0fdc-42a7-bb62-44517526fd8c","d0b07eb6-057d-45dc-941d-f055b8045519"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Naturally, the build quality and finish of this solid block of 904L stainless steel is truly excellent, and you can see the sharp lines and intense polishing in the picture above. The helium escape valve is flush against the case side, and notice how crisp the brushing is on the ridges of the bezel. Of course, we have a Trip-Lock crown as well.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["3609c6f3-10c1-45dc-93c9-ddb9cce9db8f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, about the depth rating. The Sea-Dweller is water resistant to 4,000 feet, or 1,220 meters. That is very, very deep. But it is the exact same depth that the previous generation SD was rated to, and that was three millimeters smaller. \n\nFour thousand feet is fantastically deep, but it has been brought up by some that if this new reference is larger and \"new and improved,\" why would the depth rating remain the same from a previous generation? It's a fair question perhaps, especially considering the fact that all Rolex watches go through a proprietary \"Oyster\" test using pressurized machines (borrowed from, you guessed it, COMEX) to ensure the watches are in fact rated to 10% deeper than what is printed on the dial. \n\nBut what makes things even more curious is that Rolex actually tests their dive watches to a good 25% beyond what is printed on the dial. This means that Rolex could, in fact, have made the new reference 126600 rated to 5,000 feet without having to change much on the watch at all, and that might have put down some of the complaints about the larger case size – the new reference wouldn't have only been larger, but it would've been likely perceived as a more capable dive tool which is tough to argue with. (Of course all this is kind of abstract anyway; since 2001 only six people have ever scuba dived deeper than 300 meters, but we all know dive watch fans love overkill.) ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7e5872c3-9c34-42ee-b5a1-409d015f3780"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"What's interesting here is that the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller, which clocks in at just one millimeter larger than the new Sea-Dweller, is rated to an astonishing 12,800 feet using the Rolex Ring Lock system. Granted, the watch is not only 1mm larger than the Sea-Dweller, but also considerably thicker (though it uses a neat titanium caseback to save some weight – not found on the Sea-Dweller, new or old) however one would think if a patron was interested in a 43mm super diver, he'd simply take the next step and have the Deepsea in exchange for a little extra heft.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d640282f-ec53-4a1c-8737-b2cb08595de9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, the dial here is something that few can complain about. For the first time since the 1970s, we have a Sea-Dweller with red on it. And it's not two lines of red text as we all imagined it might be, but instead, just a single line saying \"Sea-Dweller.\" As we've said, the earliest known examples of the reference 1665 Sea-Dweller featured only a single line of text in red on the dial; very few outside the deep dark world of vintage Rolex collecting know this. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"Every now and then we'll get a signal from the Crown that says, \"Yes, guys, we know you're out there and we ARE paying attention.\" This single line of red text is one of those signals.","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"The \"Double-Red\" is a well-discussed and often mentioned vintage watch, the Single Red is not. It has been said there are as few as six known single red Sea-Dwellers, though a few more have been discovered <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/true-aquanaut-prototype-rolex-single-red-sea-dweller-recommended-reading/" target=\"_blank\">as recently as March of this year</a>. Now many collectors of old Rolex watches like to complain that the company that they love so much doesn't care about them – and in fact Rolex didn't become Rolex by selling to vintage collectors, but rather by selling new watches to the average person you meet on the street (all of them). Still, every now and then we'll get a signal from the crown that says \"Yes, guys, we know you're out there and we are paying attention.\" This single line of red text is one of those signals. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["9f6b5d8f-95a4-4635-848a-e895d19d5075"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The other not-so-noticeable difference between the dial of the new 126600 and the outgoing 116600 is that the old black dial had a satin finish and this new one is a little glossy. And with the upsizing of the case comes a slight upsizing of the Chromalight and white gold hour markers, and hands, to keep things in proportion. Again, this being Rolex, their Chromalight technology actually glows up to eight hours, which is twice as long as traditional SuperLuminova. Oh, and it glows blue.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b8b9d01c-ef1e-4a09-a6ac-138d11147c36"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, on the front of the watch, you can see that the date window has a cyclops magnifier over it. This was the single most controversial change to the Sea-Dweller, even more so than the 43mm case, though perhaps some of the criticism is a little over the top. Not that I don't give credence to purists that complain over nuances – I'm usually one of them. But in this case, when asked about adding a cyclops to the crystal of the Sea-Dweller, a gentleman from Rolex simply stated, \"This watch is about functionality. A cyclops makes it easier for divers to see the date above and under water. Simple as that.\" Fair enough, really.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["31b236f3-c502-494b-8762-31d675db936d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"However the other side of the coin is this: how many people really use the Sea-Dweller as it's intended to be used, anyway? And if the little things matter so much to people and the Submariner already has the cyclops date window, why not just leave the Sea-Dweller alone? I see that side too, and if it were up to me, I'd say the Sea-Dweller should feature a no-cyclops crystal because that's how it was designed in the 1960s. That said, the same source told me that Rolex would've liked to use a cyclops on the Sea-Dweller all along but its crystal would not accept it – it was too thick and too domed for the cyclops to work properly. So in some way, the 126600 rights a wrong that has quietly nagged at Rolex since 1967. And of course, the Deepsea at one millimeter larger is still cyclops-less if it really bugs you. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_right"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Still, this response from Rolex is a little bit like Ferrari citing performance for its use of Formula 1-style transmissions over a three-pedal manual – yes, it's faster, but there a significant percentage of the sports car buying public that thinks we reached \"fast enough\" years ago and would trade .03 off their car's 0-60mph time if they could enjoy the feel of rowing their own gears. \n\nIf Rolex really wanted to make the most accurate watch in the same way Ferrari wants to make the most high performing car, wouldn't the Sea-Dweller be quartz? Here in lies the great irony of Swiss watchmaking – they want to push performance and efficiency as far as possible, but not so far that they begin to play in a field where they are no longer the experts – basically until they begin sacrifice of any of their own traditions. If Ferrari, for example, was based in Geneva instead of Maranello, perhaps we'd see the new 812 Superfast with a six speed transmission and carburetors because \"that's how a real car should be made.\" \n\nBut that's another story for another day. The new Sea-Dweller has a cyclops window, like it or not.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["d6193239-dd49-4142-bade-f0912296cfe5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Ah, the bracelet, the one piece of any Rolex watch that is practically impervious to critique from anyone. What's there to say, really? The thing is a modern marvel. Rolex has long been at the forefront of bracelet engineering and indeed, they have a full team of dedicated engineers, scientists and craftsman in Geneva that ensure what they produce is the bar by which all other bracelets are measured. And yes, if you didn't know this already, Gay Freres, the maker of those incredible vintage bracelets you see not only on Rolex watches but also many others (including vintage Pateks) was acquired by Rolex some years back. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"Because this is HODINKEE, you can be sure that if you want to know more about the origins and variations of the Rolex Oyster bracelet, we have a story on it. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-oyster-bracelet-historical-perspectives/" target=\"_blank\">Enter at your own risk</a>.","title":"Further Reading... On Bracelets","images":["66fdf06e-44f8-44bf-9b74-ddb115fa627a"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"The particulars of this new Sea-Dweller bracelet are this: it's 904L stainless steel (like the case) and made of solid links together with a taper at the buckle. These are flat brushed links, no center polishing (as you'll see on, say, the new Daytona). This bracelet has an \"Oysterlock\" clasp – Rolex's term for a fold-over clasp, and something the Sea-Dweller has had since its inception. As for the bracelet itself, it is all about functionality and comfort, though I will admit to some slight disappointment in the wear of the bracelet after a short period of time – I'll get to that shortly. First, the let's talk about special features of the bracelet. And this is Rolex after all so you have not one but two clever little tricks to make sure this bracelet works in any circumstance. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["95cbc92b-2d16-4466-a7cb-0c9c1487088f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The first is a system called Rolex Glidelock. This allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet from the clasp, at 2mm intervals, all the way up to 20mm. The second system, which is particular to Rolex dive watches, is called a Fliplock link, and this quickly extends the whole length of the bracelet by 27mm! Don't quite understand how this works? Fear not, we've created a gif for you.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b17857ad-3625-4d75-9ed5-45232e5cfb03"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Both of these systems operate just as you see above – without the use of a single tool. The Fliplock extension link is perhaps a little unsightly with its large, flat surface, but if you are trying to put this watch on over a dive suit at all, you likely don't care at all. This link attaches to the very last Oyster link before the bracelet hits the clasp. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9486e731-868f-4264-a638-0f15289e9eaf","78bd76d0-2f2f-4191-9c02-984404e82b76"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"These two systems make the Sea-Dweller bracelet tough to argue with from a functionality stand point. And the Oysters are notoriously comfortable to wear around daily. But something I've noticed on both my modern Rolex watches (Daytona and GMT-Master) and now this Sea-Dweller, is that the Oysterlock clasp can feel a little tinny at times, and when open, can rub against the bracelet links.\n\nThis Sea-Dweller is a press unit, but it hasn't seen much action at all. The brushing work on the clasp itself is incredible. Look at it just looking cool and crisp and awesome on my wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["415bfdf2-d10e-4397-afec-7e9f10bac82e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But, when you turn the watch a little further to see the link just above the folding clasp, you notice that there are some scuffs that are, well, just a little surprising. Now this isn't anything really offensive, and metal-on-metal wear is practically unavoidable, but still, seeing these marks on a brand new Oyster bracelet with little daily wear was not something I anticipated. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7dc0419f-082b-41e9-b131-acc7e228d8c9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"A few scuffs aside, the Rolex Oyster bracelet is still the best damn bracelet you can buy – there are other \"finer\" bracelets out there, no doubt, but few can match the comfort and quality seen here. When you add in these tool-less adjustments, you have something even better than before. Further proof that Rolex really doesn't leave good enough alone.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5ce7361e-a2ba-497b-b4a2-77abe6b21c17"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now this is the least mentioned but arguably most important change to the Rolex Sea-Dweller for 2017. The caliber 3235 is Rolex's latest and greatest movement, featuring 14 new patents not seen on the 3135 used in the 2014 model year Sea-Dweller. The updates are noticeable and significant – that is, of course, if you actually care about watchmaking. Admittedly, most buyers of the Sea-Dweller do not, but I'm going to cover the updates anyway. The 3235 is based on an existing caliber – 3255, which was introduced in 2015 in the Rolex Day-Date 40. (The Day-Date is the flagship model for Rolex and it gets the new hotness first, almost without fail.) ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["afaa6ba4-225a-4f0c-a600-42823a9227c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This new caliber has lots to offer – at the center of the advancements is the Chronergy escapement, a stream-lined version of the traditional Swiss lever escapement. The escape wheel is skeletonized to reduce inertia, and Rolex claims it is far more efficient this way. We also have components made of a nickel-phosphorus alloy, which make the movement significantly more resistant to magnetism than a traditional caliber, and of course, we have the in-house Rolex Parachrom balance spring (also amagnetic). The result is a power reserve of 70 hours (up from 40) and a movement that is rated to not only COSC standards but also to \"Superlative Chronometer\" standards of -2/+2 seconds per day, or roughly twice as precise as COSC. (The COSC also tests only movements whereas the Superlative Chronometer rating is for the entire watch). The Sea-Dweller is the very first sports watch to receive a caliber with these updates, and because this is Rolex, there is absolutely zero way you'd know it by looking at the watch because it's all hidden behind a hermetically sealed caseback. Lovely, isn't it?\n\nAgain, most Sea-Dweller buyers likely care little for anti-magnetism, improved escapement geometry, and nickel-phosphorus alloys, but if you're buying a Rolex, you do care about efficiency and toughness, and the caliber 3235 has that in spades. Then again, so does the Day-Date 40mm, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-yellow-gold-rolex-day-date-40mm-reference-228238-83418/" target=\"_blank\">which you can read about here thanks to my colleague Jack Forster</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e6abaa02-dd46-46a2-9ea9-8a06de05ea09"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Other watches that could be seen as competition for the new Sea-Dweller fall into two categories for two very different types of users: the first is watches for those men and women who simply want a big, cool, sporty dive watch from a major brand. The second is for someone who actually will use the Sea-Dweller as it's intended, under water (and in a decompression chamber) for great lengths of time.\n\nIn the first category, there are dozens of options from major brands. Think Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Omega Seamaster 300, maybe something from JLC or AP, even. The list goes on and on. These are all great watches, though I would say few have the permanence of the Sea-Dweller. Then again, I would venture to say that is the very appeal of all Rolex watches – you just know that in 30 years, your Rolex will be just as cool as it was the day you bought it. With the others, things come and go, but with Rolex, you're buying into a legacy. And sure, that red line of text might not last forever – same with the cyclops window or the 43mm case size – but you know the Sea-Dweller will always be around, and that's worth something to the type of person who is sentimental enough to believe that spending thousands of dollars on a mechanical watch is a good idea in the first place. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"The other (far, far smaller) set of possible users, are people who are actual professional saturation divers and want a technical dive watch as a backup. For this crowd the competition comes from the likes of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-aquatimer-2000-meters-what-would-happen/" target=\"_blank\">the IWC Aquatimer 2000</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-a-hands-on-look-at-the-omega-seamaster-professional-ploprof-1200-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">the Omega PloProf</a> – both great watches from major brands rated to the same depth or even deeper than the Sea-Dweller. Again, neither feel like they have the permanence of the Sea-Dweller, but they might be a little more funky and retro, and bright colors and rubber straps abound. A case could be made for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.doxawatches.com/DOXA-SUB-collection.html/" target=\"_blank\">any number of Doxas</a>, as well, which have their own underwater history, and in some cases again are rated to even deeper than the Sea-Dweller. But, as <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-exclusive-and-in-depth-bob-barths-historic-sealab-r/" target=\"_blank\">Captain Barth told Jason Heaton in 2012</a>, \"Most divers prefer to wear Rolex because they seem(ed) to be a little sturdier than anything else.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"And that's just it. The most severe competition for the new Rolex Sea-Dweller is from Rolex. It's the outgoing 40mm reference 116600 and the one millimeter larger, but even deeper rated, Deepsea. It's the Submariner! Rolex has such a strong offering of dive watches it's hard to think that if someone were slightly turned off by a feature or two of the Sea-Dweller, that they wouldn't just turn to another Rolex diver with slightly different specs. I've even heard that there is a run on the outgoing 116600 because people think that will be a collectible – the last 40mm, cyclops-less Sea-Dweller. It's possible, but I also know that the current Sea-Dweller 126600 is also a very hot watch at the moment, which is saying a lot for a professional tool watch with relatively limited commercial appeal. Here's a quick guide on how the new Sea-Dweller stacks up against its brethren.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d7248f56-78a0-484c-b64d-5fcbcf8c854e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Personal Thoughts On The New Sea-Dweller"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7c4ba030-afa3-4572-9ab4-91f05eee3d13"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"When HODINKEE Managing Editor Stephen Pulvirent told me we'd be getting the new Sea-Dweller in for review and asked me if I wanted to give it a shot, I was a little on the fence about the whole thing. Obviously I have a thing for old Rolexes, but the Sea-Dweller has never resonated with me. In fact, I've owned one of every other well-known Rolex at point or another (except the Milgauss) but never a Sea-Dweller. I've had my Subs, and I still have my first Sub (matte dial 5512 wassup!) which for me can't be improved upon. And yet that is what the Sea-Dweller sought to do from the very beginning. My first thought was: I'm not a diver, so why deal with the extra metal on the wrist? \n\nHow do I feel after writing this admittedly too long story on the new Sea-Dweller? Well, exactly the same. This is not a watch for me. And I say that as someone who has grown to love modern Rolex as much as vintage – and in fact the next watch I buy might in fact be another modern Rolex (unless I finally get that #SpeedyTuesday call I've been waiting for). But it won't be the Sea-Dweller. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["21a8989f-54c4-4bf4-97f5-4ee65c82a67a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now more than ever I know that the Sea-Dweller is just too big for me. 43mm isn't the issue, and in fact I happen to think that much as the Datograph got better when it upsized to the Up/Down, because the thickness was balanced out by the increased diameter, this watch might even work better as a 43mm than it did as a 40mm watch. It doesn't feel so hockey-puck-ish any more. \n\nIn fact, I grew to be okay with the watch on my little girly-man wrist, which more often than not is adorned with lightweight 38mm cases and hollow-link bracelets. But here's where I differ from the Rolex advertisement above from 1964. It reads: \"Professor Picard clamped the Submariner to the outside of his Bathyscaph and took it seven miles down to the ocean floor... what is it doing at the conference table?\" To me, this watch doesn't belong at the conference table. It belongs on the wrists of people like Professor Picard, or Scott Carpenter, or Bob Barth. Or hell, maybe<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/run-silent-run-deep-diving-with-the-sinn-u1-professional/" target=\"_blank\"> our own Jason Heaton</a> (AKA the only dive watch reviewer who actually dives). But not on me – it's overkill on me. A Submariner with a jacket and tie is one thing – the damn watch is part of our cultural DNA at this point – but the Sea-Dweller is actually a tool. It's something built to serve a very distinct purpose during a particular part of our history that was purposeful. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9df53a1a-288f-4f5a-8484-0752bf71a3d8","8c789c88-99d1-4c52-89a3-2f6c666262ae"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I have no issues with others wearing Sea-Dwellers daily (obviously) and I can tell you that should I ever be tapped to participate in SeaLab IX, it'll be the first thing I buy. But until then, the Sea-Dweller will remain in my eyes just how I described it in the very beginning of this story: intellectually one of Rolex's more important products, though commercially one of its least. 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You know the sale, right? It's that charity auction where half the brands change a dial color and call the watch \"Piece Unique\" and<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/steel-patek-at-only-watch-becomes-the-highest-priced-wristwatch-of-all-time/" target=\"_blank\"> then wonder why one lot makes up for more than half of the sale's proceeds</a>. It's all for a good cause, though, because 100% of the money from Only Watch goes to research into better treatments (and hopefully a cure) for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (an inherited disease in which muscles gradually but irreversibly waste away).\n\n This year, amidst the existing watches in new metals and those with fresh dial colors, we have something genuinely new – like, something not seen before from the brand that is making it. And it happens to be from fan favorite F.P. Journe. And it also happens to be awesome. Like, really, really awesome. 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Let's just say he's got a very good friend that often wears a Journe tourbillon (or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/unique-pink-gold-fp-journe-sonnerie-souveraine-lapis-just-because/" target=\"_blank\">Grande Sonnerie</a>) on one wrist and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/split-seconds-rolex-4113-dubai-watch-week/" target=\"_blank\">a Rolex split-seconds chronograph (ref. 4113) on the other</a>. And that 4113 from Rolex – the most complicated watch ever made by the Crown – yup, it's a two register, 44mm watch with a thirty minute counter at three o'clock. It's all coming together now, isn't it? Here is a closer look at that beautiful in-house and completely unique caliber for Only Watch 2017.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The details of this new caliber are just stunning: circular stripes on the bridges, with a baseplate that's circular grained. The screw heads are polished and the slots are chamfered. Pegs get polished, rounded edges and all steel parts are beveled with straight graining. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["168626a1-cd6f-4b09-b19f-2c7ea3c6ba04"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"F.P. Journe has put an estimate of CHF 200,000 to 400,000 on this remarkably cool 44mm split-seconds chronograph, though considering the 2015 Tourbillon Souverain brought over $500,000 and that was an existing model in a new case metal, this chronograph could fly. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.onlywatch.com//" target=\"_blank\">Only Watch 2017 is hosted by Christie's</a> and will take place November 11, 2017, in Geneva. 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This is what so many look for when considering a high-end chronograph. The Datograph Up/Down, a staple of high-end chronographery (is that a word? no, but it should be) hit on that, and the platinum case plus black dial coupled with arguably the sexiest damn movement in all of watchmaking made it a quick classic. But the Datograph isn't perfect for all; nay, some prefer its slightly thinner, slightly more slender little brother, the 1815 chronograph. I am, in fact, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-3940-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">one of those people</a>, and an original 1815 chronograph in white gold remains part of my core collection to this day. I am, not shockingly, wearing it as I write this story.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7fa91080-7e5e-4e8a-a00b-81c133536aba"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This watch features the very same chronograph caliber as the Datograph, but is 1.5mm thinner because it does not feature the outsized date complication – it's essentially a Datograph without the date. And that concept was taken one step further today as A. Lange & Söhne unveiled an 1815 chronograph with a black dial. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"But this isn't just a black dial version of the current 1815, it's a black pulsation dial, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-chronograph-boutique-edition-with-pulsation-scale/" target=\"_blank\">a tweak to the boutique edition 1815 that was introduced in September of 2015</a>. Now that watch, of course, was inspired by the very first 1815 chronograph from 2004, which had a pulsation dial in silver with a white gold case and a black pulsation dial with the rose gold variant. This is the first time Lange has offered a black pulsation dial in a white metal case, and the combination is one that is hard to ignore. What makes the piece even more compelling is, quite frankly, the other side to the watch, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-kevin-rose/" target=\"_blank\">which has been described by our own Kevin Rose as \"A little city back there</a>.\" The caliber is simply spectacular, and there isn't a single person that would dispute the claim that this chronograph is among the finest ever produced. With this new watch, nothing has changed, and you'll still have the wonderful view from behind.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["d871cd07-682e-4571-b85f-df59dbeab0c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But while this new black dial chronograph definitely gives you Dato vibes, this dateless Datograph remains very much an 1815 family member. We don't have the power reserve indicator or the applied hour markers. The case is gold, not platinum, and the size remains 39.5mm instead of 41mm. It is a very compelling offering indeed, and one that will surely attract the attention of many high-end chronograph buyers because, well, how could it not? Furthermore, it's less expensive than any competitive in-house watch from Patek or Vacheron (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-5170-vs-lange-datograph-vs-vacheron-harmony-review/" target=\"_blank\">we reviewed the Datograph versus the Harmony Chrono versus the 5170G here</a>). Its closest competitor in terms of looks and quality would be the now <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-the-patek-philippe-5170g-chronograph-with-black-dial/" target=\"_blank\">discontinued 5170G black dial in white gold</a>, which at retail listed for $81,000 – or more than thirty thousand dollars more than this Lange. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I think an even more interesting comparison for this new reference would be to the original 1815 chronograph, which I also happened to be wearing while viewing this watch for the first time. The watches are all but identical physically – both 39.5mm in diameter by 10.8mm thick and both in white gold. The watch tends to sit higher on the wrist than the sub-11mm depth might indicate because of the lip that encases the sapphire caseback. It's not too thick on the wrist, but it's certainly not svelte either. Naturally, it is is thinner than the Datograph Up/Down, which is 13.1mm thick. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["ee5eefd9-b5aa-452a-aa93-8187f165ae16"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The mechanical differences between the first generation and the second are small but important – the power reserve was increased considerably to 60 hours from the 36 found in the first generation. Physically, the dials are almost mirror images of each other, though this new black pulsation dial uses the larger diameter sub-registers found in the second generation, non-pulsation dials (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-lange-and-sohne-1815-chronograph-revisited#&gid=1&pid=11\" target=\"_blank\">as seen here</a>). ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1535b1c4-f824-4755-9140-757d00d54447","c65e1d51-af4e-4ba9-b67d-a697fed40dcb"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"You see a slightly different font used, and a different signature at six o'clock on the old versus new, and it should be noted that this is not an exact copy of the original rose gold 1815 chronograph dial – that had the smaller sub-registers and they were an off-white color where as this is all black. Here is my first generation watch versus this new black dial second generation watch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["04f8e9ca-5c2d-44e8-87bc-18d95bc4d8b9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new 1815 Chronograph with black dial will not replace the non-pulsation dial version, and it will also not be a boutique exclusive – meaning this watch will be available at any authorized A. Lange & Söhne dealer. The price on this watch will be the same as the other 1815s, at $50,300, and it will be slotted nicely against all other major high-end chronograph competition. You can find more information on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/1815/#1815-chronograph\" target=\"_blank\">the Lange 1815 chronograph here</a>.\n\nFor further reading, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-lange-and-sohne-1815-chronograph-revisited#&gid=1&pid=2\" target=\"_blank\">see Jack Forster's examination of the 1815 here</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-3940-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">my own look at why the 1815 chronograph earned a spot in my own collection here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"7f658800-d01e-40de-b940-20f2d32f7ec8","container_id":4533,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1496752367142-l3stdo8wbs-bd4c34e84bbfb73e7de6239295d19e52/Lange1815BlackDialChronograph-1.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-26T09:38:38.293-04:00","updated_at":"2017-06-06T08:36:00.902-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1496752367142-l3stdo8wbs-bd4c34e84bbfb73e7de6239295d19e52/Lange1815BlackDialChronograph-1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-1815-chronograph-with-black-dial","full_title":"Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph With Black Dial (Live Pics & Pricing)","tags":["a-lange-sohne"]},{"id":4549,"slug":"paul-newmans-paul-newman-daytona-rolex","column_slug":"found","title":"Paul Newman's Paul Newman Daytona, Seriously","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-06-01T10:06:15.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-06-01T09:28:53.529-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:58:08.690-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"What could be the most important vintage watch in the world will sell this fall at Phillips's first watch auction in New York. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":1883,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":199385,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"We all knew this day would come. We didn't know when, or in what form, but we knew it was bound to happen. The watch that in many ways can be credited with launching the vintage collectible watch market that we all know today has been found, and it's coming up for sale this fall. Here's the story of Paul Newman's Paul Newman Daytona.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["703e3ec6-c6e4-4474-8d69-52cc0ea5cd18"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In July 2014, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ten-watches-were-still-looking-for/" target=\"_blank\">I wrote a story called \"Twelve of the Greatest Missing Watches,\"</a> and at the very center of that story was this watch – the Rolex Daytona reference 6239 with exotic dial owned and worn by Mr. Paul Newman himself. We've known this watch was still around – as in not destroyed or permanently lost – for some time. We've also known that it was on the West Coast, and that its retrieval was the subject of several hopeful messages amongst friends for years, all ultimately coming up empty. But now it's been retrieved, and the watch that started it all will sell at Phillips's first New York watch auction this October. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The story of how this watch came to be in the hands of Phillips is a sweet, honest, and direct one. The watch belongs to James Cox, who dated Paul's daughter, Nell Potts. What's amazing is that James met Paul Newman at Lime Rock, a race track in Connecticut, when he was 13 years old, and for the first several months of his relationship with Nell, he had no idea that her father was in fact Mr. Newman himself.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"Here, here’s a watch. If you wind it, it tells pretty good time.","source":"Paul Newman, as he handed his Daytona to its current owner"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"In the summer of 1984, James was at the Newmans' home in Westport, Connecticut, when Paul asked him what time it was. He responded, \"I don't know, I don't own a watch.\" Paul then handed him his Rolex and said, \"Here, here’s a watch. If you wind it, it tells pretty good time.\" The rest is history, and Mr. Cox wore the watch every day until the mid 1990s when he was informed of the relative value of a so-called \"Paul Newman\" Daytona. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Two years after Mr. Newman died, his daughter founded the Nell Newman Foundation, and the treasurer of this foundation contacted a well known collector in California named Tom Peck about possibly selling the watch. Some weeks later, none other than Aurel Bacs, the man who had set the record for the most expensive Daytona last year (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gold-oyster-paul-newman-daytona-phillips-geneva/" target=\"_blank\">and recently broke it once more</a>) was in California to see the watch. Aurel was \"as excited as a Swiss guy in a suit could get,\" according to James. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b9997963-625e-4e8c-a7b1-17067327cf8f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As for the quality of the watch itself – always a concern for any auctioneer looking for a historically important watch – you really couldn't ask for more. The dial is original and unrestored, with warm patina on the cream face. All lume plots are present and deeply aged, as are the hands. The case is in good shape, and on the back is a charming inscription from Paul wife that reads \"Drive Carefully, Me.\" This watch is everything we could've hoped for.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"How the market will respond to such a momentous sale, one with more than simple rarity at play but also the direct lineage to Mr. Newman himself, with documented ownership history within his own family, and charming, honest condition is anybody's guess. Could this be the most important vintage watch in the world? Maybe. But that really doesn't matter to me. This is Paul Newman's Paul Newman, and to anyone who is a fan of the man's style and integrity, that matters much more than any price that may become associated with it. You can be sure we'll be following this one very closely.\n\n(<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.wsj.com/articles/how-paul-newmans-legendary-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-was-foundand-where-its-going-now-1496322396/" target=\"_blank\">All information and photos via the wonderful story in today's Wall Street Journal.</a>)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":6,"slug":"found","name":"Found","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.970-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:52:23.936-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"b7adfde4-8b23-459b-8d51-87b89f4906b8","container_id":4549,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1496323435812-ut2asc4yhp-c4a2203c90371440ddc4de8131126273/PaulNewmansPaulNewman.001.jpeg","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-06-01T09:28:53.561-04:00","updated_at":"2017-06-01T09:28:53.561-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1496323435812-ut2asc4yhp-c4a2203c90371440ddc4de8131126273/PaulNewmansPaulNewman.001.jpeg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/paul-newmans-paul-newman-daytona-rolex","full_title":"Found: Paul Newman's Paul Newman Daytona, Seriously","tags":["rolex","phillips","historical-perspectives","vintage-rolex"]},{"id":4516,"slug":"watches-vs-contemporary-art-christies","column_slug":"editorial","title":"Something To Consider: The Average Lot In Christie's Post-War Art Sale Was Double The Value Of The Top Lot In Its Watch Sale","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-19T15:12:16.672-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-19T09:37:57.836-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:57:59.859-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"You think things are crazy in watches? Check out the art world. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":23033,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":null,"automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":null,"display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"One of the most commonly used words on social media, forums, and in comments sections about stories of big watches selling for big prices is \"bubble.\" It's easy to believe that say, a Rolex selling for $5 million is a sign of a bubble because it is new territory for the category. It very well might be a bubble – who knows – but then again, more people are interested in collectible watches than ever before, so maybe it's just the beginning?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["89344a32-c89d-4312-80d1-fa32de6c6880"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Let's compare two auctions, both held by leading international house Christie's within 36 hours of each other. Its Rare Watches sale, which we've covered extensively, featured 282 lots for a total sale price of 16,050,875 CHF. The math on that, including the few dozen or so lots that passed, works out to an average lot price of around 56,900 CHF per lot. That's a ton of money for a watch! ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"The top lot in this sale, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/emporer-haile-selassie-patek-philippe-ref-2497-christies-record/" target=\"_blank\">a never-before-sold black dial luminous Patek Philippe perpetual calendar</a> sold for a whopping 2.9 million CHF. By any measure, that is a tremendous amount of money. Any measure, that is, until you compare it to the world of post-war and contemporary art.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["545bfd8b-b9c6-4ec3-9296-20f57824b564"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Post-War and Contemporary Art sale at Christie's featured 70 lots for a total of $448,062,000. No, there isn't an extra zero there. This means that the average lot price for this sale was over $6 million – or more than double the very top lot in the watch sale, and even higher than the top lot of the weekend – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bao-dai-phillips-most-expensive-rolex-ever-sold/" target=\"_blank\">the almighty Bao Dai Rolex</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_right"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"The top lot in the sale brought in almost $53 million, or roughly three times what the entire watch sale brought in. But it wasn't the only lot that exceeded all of the watches by itself – you'd have to get to the tenth highest-selling lot to find a result that wasn't greater than the entire watch sale.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, global interest in art is far greater than global interest in watches, but when many mention the word bubble in the watch market when we see things start hitting low seven-figures, it might be a good idea to point them in the direction of a contemporary art sale for a little perspective. Will things continue to climb to the vintage automobile and then contemporary art levels? I would never bank on it, but there is no telling what the future might bring. And it is clear there is plenty of growth potential for all collectible assets.\n\nCheck out the results of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/index.aspx?intsaleid=26805&lid=1&sid=251b16eb-d926-482b-8a3c-170713656b99&action=sort&sortby=ehigh\%22 target=\"_blank\">the watch sale here</a> and then the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/index.aspx?intsaleid=26796&lid=1&sid=fcab1961-d365-4d8d-a616-a9069b40a0ac&action=sort&sortby=ehigh\%22 target=\"_blank\">art sale here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":5,"slug":"editorial","name":"Editorial","description":"Explore past and present HODINKEE content, from in-depth product reviews to original video series.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.956-04:00","updated_at":"2021-01-04T14:48:24.012-05:00","status":"archived"},"hero_image":{"id":"4656542e-b56c-464c-8417-6e8df790ebbc","container_id":4516,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1495200839274-cnn69hnp3p7-63e9e223b9278800eea5c1be30d91387/francis-bacon-triptych.jpeg","width":1765,"height":1103,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-19T09:37:57.854-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-19T09:37:57.854-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1495200839274-cnn69hnp3p7-63e9e223b9278800eea5c1be30d91387/francis-bacon-triptych.jpeg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watches-vs-contemporary-art-christies","full_title":"Editorial: Something To Consider: The Average Lot In Christie's Post-War Art Sale Was Double The Value Of The Top Lot In Its Watch Sale","tags":["recommended-reading","christie's"]}]}">

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